hi..
I plan to extend my house DS Semi D:kitchen(1st floor) and room(2nd floor).
I would like to know recommended footing size spec.
base on tom jason, he mention 5x5 size is recommended.
I did ask one of contractor,he mention 3x3 is enough since soil is solid.

Sorry for asking some information, how to measure the footing 5x5 and 3x3? is it the steel dimension?

Haha..i have no idea mate. I guess its the concrete dimension bottom of footing

AFAIK its the foot print size of the concrete slab.

But the LxW dimension is only part of the story. The Footing should have a minimum Thickness or Depth and should have the right amount and type of steel re-enforcing bars.

Your Builder is party right, size can be less (or more) depending on the soil type. But Only an expert can tell you correctly after taking a soil sample. Contractor just scratch the soil with his boot toe and say "3x3 cause you have hard soil" is not the correct way.

Difference Area is a lot. 3x3=9sqft while 5 x 5 = 25sqft. so If contractor only use 3x3 he use 1/3 the amount of concrete ans he save alot in cost and can give cheaper quote, which probably also make you happy. But what happens in 5yrs time when you have soil movements and the walls are cracking cause the footing was too small?

Cheers

Wah.. just guessing like that only r? No need soil investigation n proper engineering calculation? Double story extension u must be very careful. Unless ur house is on ex-hill area (cut area).

Thank for the info..i'm not aware that need engineering to involve..i thought ask contractor come to quote that all n they know the ground condition..or maybe they just estimate or agak2 only on footing spec.anyway my house is at hill area(cut area)..maybe others can share their opinion n expertise as well

since you hv mention my name, i hv to respond...hope to read my post is secret revealed...


for two storey..the best is with pilling 5x5 feets...if space permit..else most contractor just use 3x3 footing...of course with piling is the best...and also depend on soil type...

the steel type is Y12 BS..is the minimum requirement...of course if you want bigger is better...usually for double storey that the standard....you dont need engineer to do that...for the case bungalow collapse is because the footing and the beam is not according to standard....but the end of the storey it depend on you...only big big company hire engineer for their reno...normal contractor just use the standard...of course if you want engineer no problem but the contractor will charge you..for normal house..contractor dont take soil sample..but of course if you want sur ecan..but they will charge you...

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3031567

my reno https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3031567

Type of foundation would be much dependant on type of soil ur house laid on. Normally even for double story, pad footing is adequate which size minimum 2 feet x 2feet x 2 feet depth and with Y20 rebar (for good soild condition)

Y20 for footing only or need to use for concrete base as well?

Rebar need to have concrete together la.

This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 15 2013, 01:23 PM

The size of the reinforced concrete (RC) pad footing is dependent on the ground condition and also the load taken by the column.




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That is bad advice, how did you come up with "Normally 2ft x 2ft is adequate" are you an Engineer and calculated it or have you ever referred to the Building Codes? I think not.

Don't give your tidak ada opinion and present it as sound advice. It is misleading to people that might foolishly follow your advice.

Cheers

first of all, I'm not expert in physics nor construction line. Just that I'm currently renovating my house.
You plan to extend with upper floor, you must get permit from local council together with architectural drawing. It must be fully endorsed by certified architect and engineer. From the drawing, there must have the specification on the foundations. Those experts must have taken into consideration on factors, like soil condition, load factor and future maximal weight bearing...
Can't be wrong if you comply details from them (somehow), else sue them if structure failure!!!

This post has been edited by cheeshion: Nov 15 2013, 04:12 PM

One logical way to find what size and rebar requirement is to dig to a site of the back of the kitchen existing footing. After digging it you can see the size of the footing then hack a part of it to review the rebar. From then one just add a foot to the dimension to be sure and add more rebar than the existing.

I believe the developer has done studies of your soil condition by engineer and been approve to be safe by local council. By making it stronger than your existing footing you can have peace of mind. Also check by digging deeper if pilling was made, if so just follow.

Anyway you still have to dig the existing footing and its rebar when reno so as to connect the old rebar to new rebar holding each other at the cold joints.

Isn't this answers all the queries above, simple and definite without being an engineer!

Cheers

Perhaps i put it wrong way.. the size of footing i given was based on my current renovation works and also another renovation works i did for double storey house. if the house situated at cut area (hill area laterit earth which is very dense) shud be no problem. but if ur house at fill area, it is may not suit.

But as i said, it is solely based on ur soil condition. It may not follow any building code but it was been practise so many years by the renovator contractor especially if u always lepak with indon workers which not using any laser for erection of column (just use tread n batu) or when leveling the laying of drain which just using water in the transparent plastic tube.... (i believe this practise also not written in any building code)...

This post has been edited by aquaria87: Nov 15 2013, 08:17 PM

Agree, permit and approval by Local Authority is a must. for single storey reno just need the architecture drawing. but for double storey and above, u also need endorse structural dwg.

Frankly, for small renovation works, the engineer wont carry out any soil investigation unless u willing to pay (which in my view waste of money)... the engineer may just design based on typical foundation with twice working load (MY ASSUMPTION ONLY).

NOT TRUE!

The original developer would have had to lodge construction plans INCLUDING SOIL SAMPLE REPORTS to the local authorities. The Engineer doing the calculations for the renovations can easily refer to these soil tests and then apply the appropriate calculations to come up with the correct footing size.

Don't cut corners or follow most contractors tidak apa attitude, if you do uyou will be one of the many that come to this forum to post pictures of their problems and ask for help/advice to solve the problems.

Sorry, I very much disagree with this approach. it is definitely NOT "definite"

Simply adding 1 foot to the original footing is not going give you the correct footing size for a double story extension. The loads that will be supported by that column and its footing should be properly calculated and then required footing size can be determined taking into account the loads and the soil type. There is no other correct or "definite" way to do it.

Cheers

YES YES YES, we have a winner, this is the correct way.

First I talked only about footing, not column. First thing first, are you disputing the suggested footing?

2nd, whether it is footing or specification for columns what you suggest TS to do? Hire engineer? Yes, that is the right way to do but that is a bomb to pay. There are shortcuts and alternatives and am suggesting if you cannot go by air go by sea, something like that. Shortcut sometime is even better and more effective, save time and effort and money.

There are many ways of solving a problem when we think out of box especially when the cost of doing it "correctly" is beyond reasonable as far as price/cost is concerned in this case.

One other think out of box or shortcuts is go to the developer and look for the architecture or structural drawing and follow. Another place to get such information is from the land office or local council (am not sure which one). The authority should have such information or request such information when approving housing projects.

So, hiring an engineer is also not a definite answer compare to what has been done by the developer more thoroughly done, than one personally hired engineer, in a big or bigger project of many houses.

It is healthy to dispute and everyone learn from each other. I was not thinking of column but only footing which is only a part of the whole reno consideration.

Cheers

sydneguy, i respect ur view. tq for ur view. part of knowledge sharing i learn.

This post has been edited by aquaria87: Nov 15 2013, 11:56 PM

For small reno job, i dont think ppl willing to pay profesional engineer to design such simple footing. maybe for deep pocket ppl can la..but for ppl like me... it is based on contractor experience and also neighbour reno works cud help for contractor to design the footing. A lot of reno works has been carried out this way and to b surprise those indon workers are sometime much brilliant and creative to solve design problem as they are more practical guy....

I accord ur view bro... even engineer design are sometime has flaw bcoz they depend on what ever data they have. i cant imagine to do small reno job u hv to fork out so much money to engage profesional engineer...

Nice to read all of your ideas and opinions.i think get structural drawing from developer is a good idea.however,can we request from developer n will they give it to us?

New house? How long has it been. If too long time ago the developer dont give a damn to dig the files.

When your house is at hill cut area, the area has to be left 10 yrs to subside and pilling needed. Usually you can see your next neighbors are you next to one that is lower than yours and how high is yours? Or the back of your house is hill or the front of your house is higher? Then you can guess if pilling is required or not. Pile only for the column. Footing no need to pile.

Like I said dig the existing footing where you want to extend and follow accordingly.

One other way for column is to dig deep and wide till you hit hard ground, concrete cement, sand and stones are cheap, after all you need only 2 or 4 column max.

If the extension is not a big area, on top of the footing, reinforced concrete the whole extension area like a slab. As such when the extended structure were to sink or subside it has to sink the whole reinforced area.

Just visualise yourself. A table with 4 feet on a sandy area, at a beach. You sit on top and another man also go on top. All the 4 feet sink into the sand. When you put the table upside down you and one other man stand on the upside down table, what happen? The table will not sink into sand as it now has big big surface area on the sand. Another 2 men go stand together or even 6 men altogther, no problem!!!! Make the reinforced concrete normally 6 inches thick, make it 8 if you want to.

Most people think, to hire an engineer is a waste of money. In this case, it maybe right if u r lucky, if u r not lucky enough, you will end up spending much more. I've seen so many failed reno, from 2 inch crack till the owner need to redo d structure all over again including d existing structure. All this are due to foundation settlement. What can u do then if that is hapening? Replaster the crack? It will reappear in no time unles u do something to stop the setlement. But d qn is how? pray to god? Redo d foting?

If owner dont have money, why renovate ur house from d first place? In this case, sinbe its a double story, I strongly advice, if u want to do it, please do it properly, let the prof do their job fist. Dont solely trust d indon, they dont even learn physics. Even u go to court u have to hire a lawyer, if u sick u seek doctor. Yes u can straight go to court to defend ur self, n u can straight away go to pharmacy to buy medicine. But.. know what i mean.

You are right, want to do do it properly, but hiring an engineer is only partly correct and may be a waste of money as nobody is checking on the work of the engineer. There is no check and balance. The major part of it is construct it correctly.

Cracks. When we talk about crack, where the crack is? Crack is not always due to subsidence. The most common problem with crack is Cold Joint and shrinkage of new concrete. What appear of a crack between the existing main building and the new extension usually is due to poor joint. As concrete cure (especially the first year) is shrink alot. As it shrink it is pulling themselves together, as such it is pulling away from the existing new building and so cracks appear there. This is only one of the reason concrete crack there due to poor cold joints. It has nothing to do with subsidence. The proper way to prevent such crack is to dig out the existing main building rebar from its beams and columns and hook join to the new concrete rebar then pour concrete. When concrete set or cure over the years as it shrink, due to the hooking of the rebar the existing building is holding the new extension from pulling away and therefore no crack at the cold joints.

There are other types of crack which also got nothing to do with subsidence or due to new extension foundation sinking/subsidence. The foundation, footing and column and beams are hook together in concrete as one piece but not the brick walls and if cracks appear between this one piece and the walls then it is due to, again, poor cold joint between them. such cracks usually appear at the top of the brick walls and beam due to wall concrete shrinkage and gravitational pull. Less obvious is the crack along the column and brick wall, and again this got nothing to do with sinking.

Why spend your money on a "suspicious" engineer (suspicious because no check and balance) when it is so much cheaper to build a slab (called slab foundation) reinforced with the footing as one single piece and yet much secure foundation

See pic of a slab foundation


This post has been edited by stevie8: Nov 17 2013, 02:32 PM

Did u mean raft foundation?. 2 inch crack will never caused by shrinkage. U ask any expert, he will agree wt me. I learn this from an structural expert.

Although u choose a raft foundation, u still need an egineer to calculate the slab thickness, rebar size n its location.

Any way, are u an engineer urself.

Wah. Which engineering code u r using bro? BS or ASME?

There is no need to be sarcastic. If you are so called expert give your valuable comments. When you are not a doctor do not talk like one as though you are, okie

Here we talk so that people can understand the logic. There is no need for an engineer trying to frighten others. Even with engineer calculation still many buildings (not extension,OK!) has more than 2 inches crack and some of it you can put your hand in. There is major problem with soil and the engineers failed to notice that. Do you also know that our twin towers is now not at its original site due to extended studies of the soil deep underneath that were not suitable?

This is extract from this website

http://civil-engg-world.blogspot.com/2013/...ONAS-Tower.html

"....The geotechnical survey discovered that the actual construction site was situated partially over decayed limestone deposition and rest over soft rock. After discovering this, the structure was relocated to avoid limestone deposition. The whole foundation was rested on 104 piles. To reach safe bed rock the piles were extended to depth ranging from (200-374) feet. To reach this depth, PETRONAS Tower became the structure having the deepest seated foundation of the world....."

So, having your house extension do you think you should do a extended study like our twin tower??? Small issue going beyond what is necessary. The answer my fren is you dont even for building a housing estate with landed houses and apartment blocks.

Do you see people extending thier house bring along load of concrete to test the foundation? You dont, ok! It costs you a bomb or the whole renovation cost by doing so!

I just wonder what the engineer will do and what test he will conduct and by the way you got a house? Your parents got. So you or your parents did any extension to the house and called an engineer to do it?

This post has been edited by stevie8: Nov 17 2013, 06:44 PM

When I said slab foundation so people know what it is. If I were to say raft foundation, many would not know what I was talking about. Understand this brother. Here extract from the same website and if you worry do this than to hiring a engineer. Money wisely spent on your extension than paying the engineer. See the last line, it is economy having this type of foundation and strong.

"...Raft foundation is a thick concrete slab reinforced with steel which covers the entire contact area of the structure like a thick floor....Now I shall discuss where raft foundations are required. Raft foundation is required where soils have low bearing capacity and have to support heavy structural loads. Normally structures on marshy land, soft clay and land that are made up of sanitary land fill or other materials (like debris, unconsolidated soil and solid waste etc. where differential settlement is suspected)-require raft foundation. Raft foundations are preferred in the soil that are suspected to subsidence. Subsidence may occur from different sources like change in ground water level due to climatic change specially in case expansive soil or foundation in mining area.
In one words, where deep foundation like pile foundation are not economical and feasible and isolated column footing is impracticable due to large footing size or over-lapping of neighbor footing , raft foundation is the economical solution...."

This post has been edited by stevie8: Nov 17 2013, 06:56 PM

Simple rule of physics pressure = force / area...the larger the area...the less pressure is asserted cos it is spread over a larger area.

Wah. So expert.. so much enginering knowledge, but ur reference is from blog spot?

Never mind, bro. Am not here to show off my knowledge. Am just wanting to help.

Here you go. For those who over worry too much and wanting to hire engineer and no such budget do a slab foundation. (I prefer to use the word slab) Your pilling or column no need to be big and deep hitting hard ground.

Again, if the sand is 10 feet deep and your table is 3 feet high, 2 men keep jumping on top of the table the 4 legs will go deep into the sand until it hit the top of the table. When you put the table upside down, 6 men keep jumping until the cow comes home, not an inch of the table face will sink into the sand! That is slap foundation.

Cheers

Ha3. Even a well engineered structure can fail, what do u expect those which has done by those who didnt even know physics n calculus.

U really dont understand engineering bro. Helping? Giving wrong advice can turn ur intention another way around.

When you do not agree you can ignore, ok? Let others judge themselves From a blog is better than some so claimed to be expert. I am not a civil engineer but my knowledge and experience don't fail me. I did my house extension 2 times on 2 houses already and am going to do another. No civil engineer. I have a niece a civil engineer expert in bridges but no need for her service for my house extension, not necessary at all.

If people need only experts to comments, this is not the place for putting your queries. Go see expert and pay and get conned. "Conned" here means pay unnecessarily.

Are you? if not shut up. Otherwise, answer my question. Did you or your parent did any house reno calling or paying a civil engineer???

Never claim as an expert. Time will tell bro. When ur luck faded away u will know. Even if u did ask ur neice, she will ask what is d soil load bearing capacity, else she wont signed anything.

Yes, but they dont pay anything because their son is one of them.

This post has been edited by platinum_12: Nov 17 2013, 07:54 PM

That's is interesting. So did the son did the load bearing and bring in equipment and load?

It was done long ago when d house was in design stage.

We engineer do things with data n figure n supported with enginering calculation. If anything were to hapen we have those to save our ass. But u, what u want to show to judges if something happen? Ur ass?

Soil data are important. U need to know what is undergrund, it might appear a solid n strong ground on d surface, but 10 feet below it might be a soft clay or even worst a landfill. If this is d case, if u choose a wrong method of foundation, it will affect d integrity of ur house, not now but in d future. It will slowly sinks.

This post has been edited by platinum_12: Nov 17 2013, 09:43 PM

Chill guys, everybody have their own view and experience. For instance, the indonesian wak kang have done all sort of construction (focus on housing ok).. they dont need laser kinda thiggy, the dont need calculator but yet they knw how to do it as experience play the main role..

for civil engineer, yes, it is undeniable their role to assist in designing the solid structure of the building or any other construction. Architect dreams, Engineer nightmare.

In a nut shell, both of u got the point....both of u r right.

Yup. But the way he gave his statement seems like we are useless. So i hit him as hard as i could.

So, you do not want to answer my question, right? no load test no telling what kind of test, so you are lying. What kind of engineer are you? Dont mind show a copy of photo the cert or ass? And so how your brother use what to see 10 feet under the ground? Your bro got the equipment? The one empty talk is you that is why you are so defensive otherwise the conversation should have ended long before. What have you commented? Nothing but get an engineer, get an engineer....engineer...engineer, we are engineers... I have so many engineers surrounding me and none show off, hardware, IT, software, civil, mechanic, telecommunication, electronics. None says we engineers... something like that to push for a point.

Cert pls or ass

OMG dont know there were "suspicious Engineers" lurking around Malaysia to attack their helpless victims.

Please also look out for and avoid all the "Suspicious Doctors", Suspicious Pharmacists", "Suspicious Accountants"

PMSL

Seriously, Engineers have studied their profession for a minimum of 4 yrs and are accountable and liable for the technical advice they give. eg if the house collapses due to their negligence or incompetence they are held personally liable for the material damages and they can be found guilty of manslaughter if there are any casualties.

An Engineer acting in the capacity of a consultant must be Chartered/registered with the Board of Engineers Malaysia or an equivalent such Engineering Society/Association that regulates its members (eg Institute of Engineers Australia).

Chartered Engineers must maintain their rating by completing a prescribed amount of Professional Development each year.

Engineering is serious business conducted by trained serious professionals that are held accountable for their advice by their Professional Body, the Govt and the Courts. Engineering is not something to be performed by a bunch of "Indon labourers" that don't know the folly of their half-baked "engineering advice".

Also AFAIK it is not expensive to engage an appropriate Structural/Civil Engineer to do the necessary minor calcs of footing, column, beam and slab specs that you would need for a 2nd storey extension. In any case I believe you can't/shouldn't get local authority approval for such an extesion without such Engineers calcs and drawings.

BTW I am hold the appropriate Engineer qualifications and Chartered status in Mechanical, Industrial, Structural and Aerospace Engineering. Though not holding any formal qualifications in Civil Engineering, I have also studied enough of Civil engineering to know what I'm talking about on the subject of footings.


Cheers

Ok la bro. U win lah.. here ur throphy. Congrates..

Me too, a proud enginering bachelor n registered engineer with bem.

Thanks for the trophy, not throphy, mr proud engineer.

Well written. But there is something we called real world as the world we are actually living in. All these approvals and engineers specs are mostly non-existing but just rubber stamps! Draft man draw and engineer sign and stamp, local authority sign and stamp and indon construct the reno extension. No engineer come to site even step in to look at it! So, If you were to hire an engineer the most is he steps on site, curi curi test and charge you a fee. So, suspicious engineer he is because he can even signs and stamps without being on site on most occasions. That is reality otherwise please tell me all these reno extensions all of them hire engineers and so to be approved by local council? We buy the stamp only la.

Ur r welcome. Miss english teacher.

Haha...Teacher teaches you learn, ok. If not when you do your spec and if you accidentally wrote an extra digit "0" it is 10X more.

Ok noted with thanks. We have systems to avoid such mistakes, dont u worried.

Wow..lot of information i got..thanks anyway
my house is new house(not subsale) and if not mistaken OC was released in Oct 2011. I guess original structural & architecture drawing,soil condition test,etc still at developer side.Not sure whether they willing to entertain me or not. I'm afraid they feel weird if i request it as if i wanna find some loop hole and sue them..haha. but no harm to request it i think.
Basically,I already discuss and request quotation from several contractors..haven't decide it as i wanna study about this foundation issue first...


Attached is some photos of my house.
1st picture is rear side.
2nd picture shot is from neighbour side. My house is at low side.
This is small hill area


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huah...wat type of renovation is thisss.. piling also need. 1 batangs alrady 1-2k not included machinery..


ini mia gnp geo company punya kerja.

haha...bc to TS, jus follow d contractor footing. although they noe nuts ab calculation n etc, but wat they hav is experience. they noe when shud put bigger footing n etc... jus make sure d depth is more or less same like exisitin. in industries, d depth varies from 3'-5'. of course bigger footin means better n also cost more...

dun gila. who r u to gib all those data...hahah.

I met a situation when i did my review on project for our company where there is 2 point of view. 1 engineer consultant (the employer's consultant) say no need soil improvement, u just pile (approx setting at 21-25 meter depth) only whereas the other engineer consultant (engage by the contractor) say yes it required soil improvement + piling (same dept setting). Both are using the same SI report. Even they conduct 3rd party to do another SI.

What we the reviewer conclude that both are in the position to state their profesional view based on their experience. in the other perspective, look at who are the paymaster. 1 engage by employer say differently (look at more on cost efficiency) whereas the other whom the paymaster is the contractor say differently (which i dunno, perhaps to get more $$ for his paymaster)..

In conclusion, the project are carried out without the soil improvement. Just piling only. And Yes, they can pile to set at average set of 23meter.

In this case, im not saying the other profesional Engineer are wrong, but it shows that sometime the one follow book+experience may give different view from ther other who strictly follow book only.

cheers.

well... it really depends who wants wat..huhu.. i guess d soil is OK not until d point even d road needs piling! wahaha

I know this thread has deteriorated into a ego battle between you and Platinum_12. But I think its inappropriate to pick on someones spelling (especially an engineers as we are famous for poor spelling & grammar) since from Platinum_12's postings its pretty obvious that English is likely his 2nd or 3rd language.

I find people in Malaysia are far too quick to jump on others poor English, when in most cases its not their first language. I wish I could speak and write Malayu and Mandarin, Cantonese even 1/2 as well as Platinum_12 communicates in English.

Cheers

Yes I know only too well about the "real World" here in Malaysia and the "Tidak Apa" attitude of far to many people.

Yes, you can get an indon laborour to do your engineering consulting for you and specify all your footing, beam and column sizes if you wish, many of those houses wont fall down, but its likely most of them will develop at least some minor or major structural during their lifetime. But every so often you will get a house that falls down and possibly kills someone.

I recall there was a case in Bangsar during the last 12 months where a renovation work collapsed and killed 1 or 2 of the workers.


Here are just a few Malaysian construction disasters due to "tidak apa" attitudes about following the correct procedures.

http://www.thestar.com.my/News/Nation/2013...e-not-mall.aspx

http://www.theborneopost.com/2011/11/01/re...orkers-injured/

http://www.themalaysianinsider.com/malaysi...al-works-charge

http://www.starproperty.my/index.php/artic...ouse-in-cheras/

http://www.nst.com.my/nation/general/1-kil...llapse-1.159099

Anyway feel free to use your "cut corners" approach on your house renovations. but please don't encourage others with an air of authority and without warning them of the very serious possible consequences.

Also if you ever try to sell your renovated properties please give full disclosure (as required by law) and inform the potential buyers that you didn't follow the correct procedures and you cut many corners while doing your renovations and it is unlikely that the renovations meet the minimum requirements of the building codes. Then tell them not to worry its "tidak apa".

Cheers

i wonder why Majlis does not required structural drawings if u just reno 1 storey only. Majlis only require structure drawings if u do 2 storey and above.

Is Majlis not concern on the safety for 1 storey extension works? i dont think so as the renovation drawings will be approved by their Unit Bangunan.

Single story extension is considered a light weight structure, so it has less fatality risk. That is why majlis dont really bother to look at it. However if the extension involves slab roofing, its a whole diffent story.

Still there is structure involve. what if the soil is very bad then the structre collapse later even it is so call light weight but the risk still there rite? And even if involvse small section slab roof for water tank also the Majlis doesnt bother hv structure drawing...

Did my house slightly over do Told my contractor I need the footing to support double stories (back of my house), but for the time being build one floor first. In future will do 2nd floor. Therefore now I have a double story footing but supporting single floor on the back of my house. Is actually not much extra.

Weikee, due to budget issue, i might follow as yours.build 1st storey,2nd floor later.however footing n foundation need to follow as double storey extension. So for majlis submission, only submit 1st floor right.2nd floor will be later( maybe 5 yrs later after budget enuf).

Yup I submitted as ground floor for my kitchen.

The tidak apa people are also those who don't visit sites.

By the way, it is not Malaysia and to single out malaysia is most unfair. Building collapses, bridges collapsed are everywhere from Japan round the world and back to Japan and including oz your ideal country. This is the real world, not only buildings and bridges but nuclear plants included! I can google and point you to the sites but waste of time, you can google yourself.

Anybody who would bought my house(s) would be in for extra benefit with added rebar and higher grade concrete from specifications and personally supervised by me, just for your info. Wrong words. Not cut corners, spend wisely. We who understand the real world and to live with it, wise people like us like what Weikee said, we OVER DO IT!!!

And if you were to ever buy a house with extension, my advise to you is demolish it, be very careful because we are all tidak apa people and one day it would collapse on you!

Aquaria said, there are book+experience and strictly follow book only. You need experience and live with it to survive better in this imperfect world. Good to fight for ideal but you cant fight it here. First change within your group, your engineer peers.

Cheers

i manage to get structure drawing from developer...
the footing size are vary base on location.
initially i thought, it will be the same for all



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Of cause the sizes are different. It depends on the beam span, the slab thickness, service loadings, etc.

Foundation is not straight forward. But then again, extension is not a massive job.

I have seen entire extension teared off from the main building slanting & also extension sink.

Size of the footing depends on the depth of the footing too. There are just too many things you need to know before you decide on footing size.

Unless the contractor gives you 5 years warranty, else I won't follow their advise. You have to understand, once the drawings are stamped by engineer, it's at least 50 years warranty.

Your choice.

Wah a lot of engineers in lyn.

u mean wannabe ? lai lai.. post up your certification number , so can confirm

Finally you got it CNY soon can't start reno right away, right?

Yup,i guess best time is after CNY.base on the drawing,the smallest footing is 500mmX500mm.quite small i think

This post has been edited by aviecena2020: Jan 12 2014, 12:21 AM

Go for the biggest one, cement, sands and stones are cheap. Rebar not so expensive also. Labor same just dig a bit more.

If you want a peace of mind, get a qualified structural engineer to produce the drawing. The fee is not that much just a few hundred. After you have the drawing, get the contractor to quote for you and make sure he follow the drawing correctly during construction. That should be the way rather than let the contractor playing the fool on you.

This post has been edited by Astarguy: Jan 13 2014, 08:25 AM

i asked my indon contractor footing what size, he say standard. 900x900

Those footings are small because they sit on piles (look at d drawing carefully). Neither of those pile caps are suitable for your case, unless u want to pile it first. Get an engineer and let him advice u.

Sorry for nob question.how to get structural engineer?any contact?preferable is northern region since my place is nearby penang