My short review of LG SoundBar SK9Y - 5.1.2 ch Dolby Atmos® Sound Bar with Wi-Fi Technology. 4.5 Star in overall.

• Sound Quality - The sound quality is absolutely stunning with strong center vocal, deep bass & awesome sound separation surround. But all this only happen after you had proper setup. It actually sound bad in original out of the box setting, this probably also the reason why some said LG Sound Bar sound is not good as the original setting sound is too high treble, high pitch vocal, weak bass and the sub woofer is like not working at all.
  
  
• My Sound Setting - They is few Sound Effect and I find the best is Standard with some tunes. Movies sound effect at beginning may let you feel more immersive but after a while you will notice it is messy sound and very noisy annoying, others sound effect is totally rubbish and unusable to me. After some fine tuning, following setting give me the best output.
  - Sound Effect: Standard
  - Night: Off
  - DRC: Off
  - Auto Volume On/Off: Off
  - Treble: -5
  - Bass: 5
  - Sub Woofer: 6
  - Center: 0
  - Overhead: 0
  - Rear: 5
  - Rear Speaker Output: Surround
  
  
  
• Connectivity - I wonder who design HDMI ARC, after some Google I just known Dolby Atmos is not working if you connect your device directly to TV as most TV unable to produce Dolby Atmos even though your Sound Bar is capable and already connected to TV via HDMI ARC. I only manage to get Dolby Atmos working when I connect my device to Sound Bar HDMI IN, and this Sound Bar only have one HDMI IN which means it is a very cons options as most people have more than one device that produce Dolby Atmos. In my case, I already got two device that capable of output Dolby Atmos. I choose Apple TV 4K here as my 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray title is very little. Lucky this model is capable to output 4K HDR in RGB High or 4:4:4 which not degrade my visual output, else I am DOOM! They is one issue here as some mentioned in internet, you will sometimes face sound delay issue in 4K video when your device is directly connect to TV instead of the Sound Bar itself, I not sure is this the weakness of HDMI ARC or not as they is the option to let you adjust the AV sync issue. No sound delay issue if your device is directly connect to the Sound Bar HDMI IN.
  
  
  
• Others - Thanks to this Sound Bar where also generate nice sound output for listening to music and you can easily cast over from your phone directly. Also thanks to have option to purchase actual Rear Speaker to make it 7.1.2 system. I may consider this option in the future.
  
  

In overall, I am very satisfied to this Sound Bar sound quality and also it current promotion price.

Tested movies

• Arrival
  
  
• Ready Player One
  
  
• Blade Runner 2049
  
  
• Bohemian Rhapsody
  
  
• The Greatest Showman
  
  
• Annihilation
  
  
• Incredibles 2
  
  
• The Lion King
  
  
• Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse
  
  
• E.T. the Extra-Terrestrial
  
  

Hi. You got any recommendation on this HDMI switch. I really want one.

Hello brothers..

i am just confused to get either yamaha / sony soundbar. I am not going for few speakers.
so just 2.1 channel soundbar + subwoofer / 7.1 channel with subwoofer..
Budget in between 1k - 1.5k..
my concern is more to dolby audio with good surronding system.

After some analysis i made up my mind with YAMAHA & SONY..

YAMAHA YAS-207 best price rm1349 ( anyplace can get cheaper than this ? )
- 2.1 channel , soundbar with wireless subwoofer
- bluetooth, hdmi, hdmi arc, digital optical, 4K HDR HDMI Pass Thru
- dolby audio, dolby digital, DTS
- surround technology DTS Virtual X
- remote control function
- already done sound test at showroom superb, amazed with the sound quality

YAMAHA YAS-306 best price rm1600+
- 7.1 channel sound bar built in dual woofer, dual tweeter, dual built in subwoofers
- digital optical, digital coaxical, analog, no hdmi
- bluetooth , lan, wifi
- dolby digital, dolby pro, dts
- surround technology air surround extreme
- never tested the sound

SONY HTC-CT800 best price rm1235 ( anyplace can get cheaper than this ? )
- 2.1ch Soundbar with Wi-Fi/Bluetooth® technology subwoofer
- Analog Audio In(Inc TV CEC), Ethernet, Opt. In, USB , 1 HDMI Out(ARC) , 3 hdmi , 4K HDR HDMI Pass Thru
- bluetooth Yes(A2DP (SINK), A2DP(SOURCE), AVRCP, LDAC, AAC)
- WIFI
- Dolby Digital, DolbyTruHD, Dolby Digital+, Dolby Dual Mono , DTS
- surround technology S-Force PRO Front Surround

SONY HT-X8500 no price yet
- 2.1CH DOLBY ATMOS®/DTS:X® SINGLE SOUND BAR WITH BUILT-IN SUBWOOFER
- HDMI input suppports Dolby Digital,Dolby Digital plus,Dolby TrueHD,Dolby Dual mono,DTS,DTS HD High Resolution Audio,DTS HD Master Audio,DTS ES,DTS 96 / 24,DTS: X,MPEG2-AAC
- HDMI eARC supports Dolby Digital,Dolby Digital plus,Dolby TrueHD,Dolby Atmos,Dolby Dual mono,DTS,DTS HD High Resolution Audio,DTS HD Master Audio,DTS ES,DTS 96 / 24,DTS: X,MPEG2-AAC
- Optical Input supports Dolby Digital,Dolby Digital plus,Dolby Digital plus / Atmos,Dolby Dual mono,DTS,LPCM 2ch,MPEG2-AAC
- Virtual Surround Technology S-Force PRO,Vertical Surround Engine (Dolby Speaker Virtual/DTS Virtual:X)
- usb, bluetooth
- no idea all the inputs support different audio format, that means need to connect all the cable to TV ?

Personally i have tested sound for YAS207 & HTCT800. YAS207 i did dolby sound test and it was awesome. HTCT800 just normal sound so couldn't see the difference i guess i need to dolby test again.
Input vice, HTCT800 is the winner. More ports and option. You can expend more.
Audio format HTC800 winner as well, support more.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6aKOjwiQ7ux/c...y-HT-CT800.html
So now i am confused to get YAS207 / HTCT800.
Any brothers here can share me your personal input on both YAS207 vs HTCT800 would be very much appreciated.[B] 

I went to harveynorman IPC IKEA to test.. need to check other places if can get cheaper ir not.. i tested sound from youtube so i couldnt hear difference between dolby atmos vs dolby true hd..
Very hard to pick.. i feel YAMAHA produce good bass and sony good clarity.

YSP 1600 - RM2106 (5.1ch, dolby audio,dts,dtsx)
YAS 306 - RM1508 (7.1ch  built in subwoofee)
YAS 207 - RM1499 (2.1 ch, 200w, 4k)

HTX9000F - RM1999 (2.1ch, dolby atmos)
HTCT800 - RM1239 (3.1ch, 350w, dolby audio)

LG SK9 - RM2097 (5.1.2 ch,dolby atmos, 500w)
LG SK8 - RM1398 (2.1ch , dolby atmos,360w)
LG SK6 - RM1096 (2.1 ch)
For dolby atmos LG SK9 seems better over SONY HTX900F.. Both just 1 hdmi in, 1 hdmi out. If u have more devices than got to use tv..

I not sure for others, but LG SK9 won't activate Dolby Atmos if your source is not direct connect to the soundbar but TV itself.

Thanks for the information brother.  Appreciate it..
So which sound bar you suggesting based on your expertise brother?

In the manual it only mentioned what setting can out Dolby Atmos. The rest didn't mentioned. Haha. You can get the manual here https://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-SK9Y

I think optical had limit to 2 channel even they is Dolby support. I not so sure. But pretty sure Dolby Atmos required direct connect device to soundbar HDMI in only.

They is sound delay when connecting device to TV HDMI in and later ARC to Soundbar. I Google seems this is common issue especially if your content is 4K which make it very obvious. That probably the reason why they is delay setting for you to adjust.

They is no sound delay issue when direct connect device to Soundbar HDMI in.

I went to harveynorman IPC IKEA to test.. need to check other places if can get cheaper ir not.. i tested sound from youtube so i couldnt hear difference between dolby atmos vs dolby true hd..
Very hard to pick.. i feel YAMAHA produce good bass and sony good clarity.

YSP 1600 - RM2106 (5.1ch, dolby audio,dts,dtsx)
YAS 306 - RM1508 (7.1ch  built in subwoofee)
YAS 207 - RM1499 (2.1 ch, 200w, 4k)

HTX9000F - RM1999 (2.1ch, dolby atmos)
HTCT800 - RM1239 (3.1ch, 350w, dolby audio)

LG SK9 - RM2097 (5.1.2 ch,dolby atmos, 500w)
LG SK8 - RM1398 (2.1ch , dolby atmos,360w)
LG SK6 - RM1096 (2.1 ch)
For dolby atmos LG SK9 seems better over SONY HTX900F.. Both just 1 hdmi in, 1 hdmi out. If u have more devices than got to use tv..
[/url]

For LG, they is special setting for Atmos and it do sound different. It is more immersive compare with content not in Atmos mode. The Atmos mode is hidden and cannot activate manually.

It auto change to Atmos sound effect when detect source as Atmos. This Atmos profile is never a selection if no Atmos detect. Also others sound effect is gone when in Atmos.

Subwoofer is wireless.

SK9Y is 5.1.2 and big differences in sound quality compare with SK8Y.

then the easiest for you would be Yamaha soundbar

most of their soundbar comes without sub woofer, and has the plug for optional external sub
since ur sub is from Yamaha as well, I think shud work like a charm

The YAS-207 will also serve as a good compromise for spouses who want audio equipment in the house to be heard and not seen.

technically this 207 is good n cheap, only drawback should be the short of hdmi inputs I think
if you do not have lots of sources, then go with this

don't bother too much on the DTS x

Not many title in DTS:X, mostly still is Dolby Atmos.

Actually not that important as long the output is awesome.

dear sifus,

any recommended soundbar below 1k? mostly i use for movies and ps4.

I noticed quite a noticeable difference when I watched Gladiator with DTS:X on and off. The sense of surround and space is more enveloping compared to without. But yea, very few titles have DTS:X lol

But YAS207 DTS:X can't be compared to true Atmos system... one is virtual the other is not..

turn on your avr dynamic range control…or night mode

Been looking at soundbars with about 2k budget. In my multiple store visits for some reason

Sony CT800 seems to sound better than HT Z9F

For similar pricepoints SK9 sounds better than Z9F

In this case then I find it a battle between CT800 and SK9 whereby both of then are at very diff pricepoints 1.2k and 2k respectively.

I wantes SK9 or Z9F since my main purpose is surround sound from my TV that has netflix and connected directly to the soundbar. Thought Atmos on both would sound better than CT800 only on dolby digital. What are your thoughts?

If you are considering CT800 also take a look at YAS-207. I listened to them side by side and chose YAS-207 instead though your preference may vary.

To get Dolby Atmos in Netflix, you need either of following.

1) TV with Dolby Atmos support + Dolby Atmos Soundbar.
2) TV without Dolby Atmos support but with TV Box that support Dolby Atmos (currently only Apple TV 4K support) + HDMI in at Dolby Atmos Soundbar.
3) TV without Dolby Atmos support but with gamer device support Dolby Atmos (currently only Xbox support) + HDMI in at Dolby Atmos Soundbar.

They is no Android TV Box support Netflix in Dolby Atmos included Nvidia Shield even though Nvidia Shield can support Dolby Atmos in others apps but not in Netflix apps because Netflix not support it, not because Android TV OS not capable.

So you only have 3 options now for Netflix in Dolby Atmos

1) Buy Apple TV 4K
2) Buy Xbox
3) Buy New TV


* I exclude Pixela 4K Smart Tuner because that box is Japan country tuner box even though this box is running Android TV OS but I doubt you can get it or fully utilize it, the tuner part sure won't work but others apps in Android TV possible can but cannot guarantee if they set country specific.

Or don't buy anything now, wait for eARC, off course you need to get a new TV and also Soundbar using eARC that required HDMI 2.1
With eARC, they is no compromise of sound output as it is big enough bandwidth to pass thru Dolby Atmos in Dolby TrueHD even you connect your device to TV and later to SoundBar. For the moment the reason why device need connect to soundbar HDMI-IN instead of TV is due to bandwidth issue at HDMI 2.0, I read further TV Dolby Atmos support is compress version of Dolby Digital Plus instead of Dolby TrueHD. Anyway Netflix is only running compress version of Dolby Atmos in Dolby Digital Plus not Dolby TrueHD.

I remember a few salesperson told me ARC mostly doesn't work , told me to use optical cable instead for soundbars

and it happen to my case as well, all my ARC doesn't work, end of the day, its because of the HDMI cable, get the correct spec one, all workable

a lot 3rd party hdmi cable state 2.0 or 1.4, mostly fake I think, non ARC workable