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 Has Soundbars Improved to Usable Levels?

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SSJBen
post Feb 15 2016, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(jchue73 @ Feb 15 2016, 03:53 AM)
Of course going with a wired solution will always give you a better sound than a soundbar can give RM for RM. I think the main reason for going with a soundbar is less clutter and a reasonable surround sound achieved in a neater setup. The soundbar route is always a compromise for people who want something better than the speakers from the TV itself without much hassle.
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I know what a soundbar provides. I do reviews for soundbars and have several in my household.

But the question was asking if it's fine to go with a soundbar that costs RM4k or not, that answer IMO is no. A 2.1 setup is really no more clutter than a soundbar. I was talking about a stereo setup, not a surround setup.
SSJBen
post Feb 28 2016, 02:17 PM

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Will be letting go my Sony HT RT5 very soon btw, need to make space for upcoming models from Yamaha YSP 5600 and Sony NT5.

Haven't put it up on garage sale yet, so this is just a heads up post for anyone who wants a mint condition RT5.
SSJBen
post Mar 10 2016, 01:49 AM

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QUOTE(Xccess @ Mar 9 2016, 10:09 PM)
Bro, I've just hooked up Sony HT-RT5, realized there's a low volume issue with this system, have you encounter it or you managed to solved the issue?

Maxed out the volume to 50, it's loud enough but I want more than that? HDMI ARC from TV to HT-RT5, HDMI 1 slot for my Bluray player,"Night mode off", lowered all volume to zero on all system before hooking up, don't seems to work. Any advice?
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No I don't have any volume issue. Max volume for me reaches 71db, that's just -4db from the reference 75db volume in home theater usage.

Few things you can try:

1) If you used the speaker calibration, I suggest to manually tweak it by measuring your own distance and input your own volume to each channel. Understand that the rears shouldn't sound louder than the front, many people don't understand this when doing multichannel setups.

2) Maybe don't use ARC at all, just connect everything directly to your RT5.

3) Try to use the Cinema 9.1 soundfield, but I only suggest that mode if you are playing 5.1 or 7.1 content. Using it for stereo content will make everything sound very tinny.
SSJBen
post Mar 14 2016, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(Like a Bause @ Mar 14 2016, 09:36 PM)
how do you compute what volume to insert? any formula ? =]
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Simple, using this tool:

user posted image


Every household with some sort of sound system should have one IMO, it's as essential as a screwdriver. It's cheap and logical.

Alternatively you can use your phone with one of those SPL apps, but don't expect accurate results of course.
SSJBen
post Mar 15 2016, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(mujinkun @ Mar 15 2016, 03:51 PM)
Sub volume at 9 (+3dB) I get reading from SPL meter 75dB++...

Other speaker SPL meter reading 70dB at 30 Volume.

I think is more than enough...
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If you are going to put the sub at +9, I suggest you go find these:

user posted image

Get about 6 of them, stick under the RT5's sub.
It will tighten the bass, tame out the peaks a little and lower the boominess. The RT5's sub gets too boomy at 75db, so lifting it up from the floor WILL help noticeably. That's what I did.
SSJBen
post Mar 15 2016, 06:42 PM

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Yes door stopper. The thicker and higher (but not too high), the better.
SSJBen
post Mar 17 2016, 06:18 PM

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QUOTE(Keefkok @ Mar 17 2016, 03:14 PM)
What soundbar can recommend?
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What house can recommend?


rolleyes.gif
SSJBen
post Apr 6 2016, 04:39 PM

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The CT780's sub is puny. You can't expect much from a little 6" driver with a weak amp.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Apr 6 2016, 04:39 PM
SSJBen
post May 4 2016, 07:17 PM

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QUOTE(razkal @ May 4 2016, 04:09 PM)
Hello, good day to forummers. I am looking for recommendations regarding native  2.1 speaker setup such as swan m50w without amplifier vs something like sony ct380. Which will be better in terms of sound quality between these two?
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I've had the M50w for 5 years now and in the last 5 years, I've tested numerous soundbars. Not a single one (in my experience) has beaten the M50w in sound quality alone, yet.
Functionality and ease of use is a different story though.
SSJBen
post May 4 2016, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(razkal @ May 4 2016, 07:35 PM)
But if to compare  between the m50w that  doesnt comes without those dac amplifier etc, can it still beat the soundbar which have one although a digital one? Also I noticed that many soundbar comes with dts,dolby etc, Will this enhance the quality of the sound coming from the soundbar itself if compared with m50w which lack all these decoder?
I am contemplating whether to buy the sony ct380 or the m50w for my TV setup. Also would use the speaker to occasionally listen to music. I want something that is better than my TV speaker at that price range below RM1K
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There are a lot of things you need to go research bro, you have a lot of things mistaken.

Of course, you need a simple DAC of some sort to get a digital signal from your TV to the M50w. Dolby and DTS are codecs, not "sound quality". You need a pre/pro or a decoder of some sort to decode those codecs, get transferred to a DAC and then to the M50w.
By right, a TV with audio out should usually have a built-in DAC. Any Dolby or DTS content will just be dumb-ed down to PCM 2.0 when connected to the speaker out. But not all TVs does this, so do check.

Like I said, sound quality alone, the M50w will walk all over the CT380. But functionality wise, that's a different story. I mean, are you going to get off your couch to change the volume everytime from the M50w's volume puck?

If you're adamant about using the M50w for the TV, check if your TV has proper audio out at least. Then hope your TV does decode DTS content (believe or not, until today there are still many that doesn't) and downmix it to PCM 2.0.
SSJBen
post Jul 17 2016, 05:51 PM

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QUOTE(NotTheOne @ Jul 17 2016, 06:37 AM)
Hi guys. Narrowed down to these:

1. Yamaha YAS-203  -- RM 1.9k or YAS-105 -- RM1.2k
2. Phillips HTL5140b -- RM1.25k
3. Sony RT5 -- RM1.85k
4. LG LAS750L -- RM1.3k

Since my TV is a LG (49UF640T), I'm more keen on the LAS750
My main concern is connecting via HDMI-CEC (TV manual doesn't mention HDMI-ARC)
So, my question is, will using a digital coax sacrifice the sound quality?

Mainly, I can live without rear speakers, and rely on the "virtual surround" (as SSJBen pointed out) 5.1 & 7.1 (from Yamaha's). I prefer good bass and clear crisp audio from movies. As I'm not an audophile, I'm not the best when it comes to discerning different frequencies (low, mid and high).
Quality of sound to price ratio is not really a concern as I look at this system to be in my living room for a long time (unless it dies on me). So a device that is "future proof" and versatile (although I know soundbars by definition are not meant to be versatile)

Will need your inputs guys especially those who are using LG TV's

@SSJBen, your input is much valued here if you have tested the YAS's and the other 3? Honestly, do the YAS's or even the LAS750 stand a chance compared to the RT5?

Thanks guys and hope to read your personal views if you guys have use the above 4 soundbars!
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I guess if you want versatality, the RT5 is really your only valid choice. It has 3 HDMI inputs, doesn't sound too bad and it's decently priced. Having the broadest codec support on the RT5 isn't a bad idea either.
In stereo mode though, the Philips HTL5140b is the best sounding out of the 4 (or 5), but if you can live with only 1 HDMI input then I do suggest getting it instead.

Didn't hear the LG LAS750L, so no comment on that.

The Yamaha YAS are okay, they don't sound too bad but really.. their limited connectivity makes it hard to recommend.
SSJBen
post Jul 18 2016, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(NotTheOne @ Jul 18 2016, 05:51 AM)
@SSJBen:

(1) Using HTL5140, to play DTS 5.1/7.1 (which will be downsampled to 2.1)

(2) Using RT5, to play DTS 5.1/7.1 without powering the 2 rear speakers

Just to confirm, (1) wins?
If not, I am still OK to buy the RT5 and not use the 2 rear speakers for the time being (not convenient to power up the speakers and put them on a stand)
And, does the RT5 or HTL5140 allow USB playback for non .mp3 files (.wav etc etc)
Thanks again!
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In stereo, yes; HTL5140 > RT5.

But in surround, virtual surround will never beat discrete surround.
SSJBen
post Aug 22 2016, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(MyReviewMalaysia @ Aug 19 2016, 06:53 AM)
Hi,

Philips is no longer owned by "Philips" itself since the original philips sold their sound business to another company, it is not serviced by Philips Malaysia too.
Pray hard if your sound bar broke down within warranty period.
*
Philips audio has been under Funai for several years now.
SSJBen
post Aug 24 2016, 04:45 PM

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QUOTE(NotTheOne @ Aug 24 2016, 11:39 AM)
Guys, looked at most soundbars below RM1.5k and the quality still fails to impress

Simple question

Which 2.1 HT system with a HDMI connection, do you guys suggest, that beats most soundbars. I don't mind the 2 speakers to be wired as the speakers will still be kept left and right of TV and wires can be somewhat hidden. And if the HT system can have BT connectivity it will be a bonus.

Thanks!!
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You didn't state a budget for a 2.1 setup, so the only answer is: just way too many to list.

Would be off-topic though, so head to the stickied HT thread for more questions.


QUOTE(GamersFamilia @ Aug 24 2016, 03:30 PM)
tesco got a few sounbars , there is samsung and philips ... price around rm700++ , i dont know if good or not
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Stop looking at rubbish bro. They're sold in tesco for a reason.
SSJBen
post Jan 3 2017, 05:58 PM

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QUOTE(viking kong @ Jan 1 2017, 09:44 AM)
Hello,
Just bought Sony CT-790 (2.1 system). I have a question and need some advice.

My Equipments - Sony 4kTv X7000D, HyppTV and PS3
My connection - HyppTV to TV (HDMI) ; PS3 to Soundbar (HDMI) ; Soundbar and TV connected by HDMI ARC.

My Question
1. Which sound do I hv to choose whether PCM or bitstream (output to Soundbar) when watching Netflix on TV APP in order the get better sound experience?

2. Same as above question, on Netlix, I have 2 options for audio which are English or English 5.1. Which 1 is better for my 2.1 system?

Side Note:
1. TV 4k audio support - 2ch LPCM, 5.1 LPCM, DD, DD+ and DTS
2. Soundbar audio support - at TV IN  - 2ch LPCM, DD and DTS
3. Soundbar audio support - at all HDMI out - up to DD TrueHD and DTS MA.
4. Netflix app at TV via ARC to soundbar and I believe it will output at TV IN.

Appreciate for the help.
Thanks
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1. PCM is lossless, bitstream can be lossy or lossless. Regardless, unless the source is bad to begin with, you're not going to hear difference on the soundbar. Pick PCM for no compatibility headaches as everything plays PCM.

2. If there's no suffix, it's usually stereo. So choose "English". Best to avoid all 5.1 sources if possible and choose "stereo" to avoid downmixing issues - example; very low dialogue volume as soundbars do not have the capability to make a "phantom center channel" sound authoritative.
SSJBen
post Jan 5 2017, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(viking kong @ Jan 4 2017, 08:24 AM)
While using Netflex with 5 1 English on TV:
1. When I set TV audio ouput (at TV) to auto1 (mean bitstream), my CT790 showing Dolby Digital 48kHz 24bit
2. When I set TV audio output (at TV) to PCM, my CT790 showing LPCM 48kHz 16bit.

Both sounds no issue, just Dolby Digital entire sound will give a  little bit lower volume than LPCM. I prefer LPCM!
For above case, Dolby 24bit vs LPCM 16bit which one is better for my case 2.1 system?
How come 16bit LPCM can sound better than 24bit Dolby?

I really confuse.
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LPCM = lossless.
Dolby Digital = lossy.

As for dialogue issues, I literally just explained in the post you quoted on why to avoid 5.1 sources if possible on the CT790 (or any 2.1 soundbar).

LPCM sounds "better" to you because dialogue is more intelligible since it is locked to stereo. There is no downmixing or upmixing involved going into your soundbar. You're not losing or "gaining" anything when it comes to sound effects.

DD 5.1, you're cramping all info into 2 puny drivers on the soundbar and expect them to have "phantom channel" with depth while trying to produce surround effects along with the main L/R channel info. It's a hardware limitation, it's just physics. Nothing to be confused about if you think of it that way.
SSJBen
post May 2 2017, 01:07 AM

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Please don't get "atmos" soundbars. The amount of money spent on it to get shitty sound quality in return is just downright... stupid. Sorry if it sounds offensive, but it is how it is. Don't jump down this rabbit hole, is all I will caution you from.

Upfiring speakers are bad enough as it is, but upfiring speakers from a soundbar is terrible. I mean, how big are those drivers in there? 2 inches?
And not to mention the complexity of having a totally flat, low (8ft) and reflective ceiling for upfiring speakers to work. How many people has that kind of room?

Get the YSP 2700 and have a good day if you aren't fussy about better sound quality.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: May 2 2017, 01:08 AM
SSJBen
post Jul 24 2017, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(alijoe @ Jul 23 2017, 06:08 PM)
How about edifier b3? For bedroom, can this elevate the sound exp compare to built in tv speaker.

For watching series and movies mainly.
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99% of soundbars will sound better than TV speakers. But there's only so much you can polish a turd, after all - no matter how much you polish it, it's STILL a turd.

That said, if you need convenience a soundbar makes a lot of sense.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Jul 24 2017, 05:06 PM
SSJBen
post Apr 22 2019, 05:47 PM

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Do you know why the audio industry which compared to the video industry, being so much smaller yet has some of the highest return of margin profits in the entertainment reproduction sector?

Because 99% of people are ignorant and every year, people get even dumber. Then we have the blind leading the blind in forums.

I can't sell you science, but if I sell you enough bullshit - I get my holiday to any Europe country easily. Do you know how easy it is to sell bullshit in the audio industry? Even easier than making a killing with fake VCDs.

Ironic isn't it how only the audio industry "manufacturers" can get away with selling bullshit?

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Apr 22 2019, 05:48 PM
SSJBen
post Apr 24 2019, 02:26 PM

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Wanna know an open secret to improve bass response and smoothness with a soundbar yet 99.9% of soundbar users don't do?

Simple - do a sub crawl.
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