The IAFM unit by nature doesn't spoil that easily geh. However, according to magician cracking an IAFM could caused by blockage of catcon, too much reverse pressure from exhaust remained in the combustion chamber, as a result reverse firing the intake valve. Intake manifold kena suction(intake) and back pressure than ma crack lor.

Canister purge valve is a consumable part, it's wear and tear. Tauke lover will rosak it faster because the purging process will be more thorough compare to normal driver. ericmaxman to conlanfem

Can

Not fitting, just plonk on top. Rack also need to change.

If you're not that hardcore, just drive normally it will not cause such catastrophic damage. If you are,

1) Change intake manifold
2) Change catcon once it sumbat(provided you're a tree huger)
3) Change to high flow catcon(if you can afford, around 1k++)
4) Replace with straight pipe/bullet silencer(not environment friendly at all)
5) Replace whole exhaust manifold + remove catcon(not environment friendly and need to spend more)

It could be just the canister purge valve. Try to change the purge valve 1st. If conlanfem no problem, you save some 400+. Regardless, if change ady still same torque dip at 2krpm ~ 3krpm, then only change the IAFM intake manifold. Magician always try to threaten you they'll charge double if you try the purge valve and didn't work. So, it's about time to get a new magician, ask the magician how much do they charge on changing the purge valve alone before let him diagnose. Then baru ask how much do they charge by changing the whole IAFM. Like this ask prolly cheaper than you go ask them diagnose and they ask you change both. Even if I have to pay slightly more to try out the purge valve first, I rather take the risk.

Replacement catcon can be found at Steven, Sri Damansara Exhaust. Ayam using this 1, extremely stock and affordable. Reason being, I couldn't find a trust worthy exhaust manifold out there, provided most after market manifold sensor mounting NOT located at the joints.





How?

Overflow. Just keep cranking, good things will happen. Stop being paranoid.

Who ask you to crank so many times. Keep cranking until the engine start. Being a season GaGa owner still make the same mistake as newbie. Shame on you If I were other sohem that doesn't know you well, probably will bad mouth say your VS causes kenot start kar liao

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=63388829

okeh master restarted 8 times, no fuel going in, the 9th time suddenly got fuel injection.

pull it out and chuck it in the bin

How ar? Fix ady? So lansi sardenly bcum xin-gah-lan here wor

Nevermind, everytime when I try to tell people overflow issue, he will post the same thing again. His philosophy as usual, turn off key, turn on and wait for TEET, then start the car, that never fails him. So we shall listen

May be should do like DonMe, switch off, switch on wait for TEET, then start

From what I heard, immo all time on key switch will make plobrem geh

Esoba koyaked. Ori Plotong very expansib. Go get GAB/Moroe still much cheaper compare to APM Plotong

If it's transparent liquid, it is aircon condensed water oni.

Gimme the keys

Battery habis jor. Like I told, if cranked straight for 5 minutes also can't start then don't try liao. Surely there's some technical/software error. Good luck in getting the tow truck. You should call now, this is an emergency.

So sensitib Troll abit ady marah²

Acterly, your theory also make sense. Need to find out whether Noobdao stopped area got bukit or not. If naik bukit no plobrem, but if turun bukit, then it's likely lack of fuel supply. Just for your information incase you don't know how fuel regulator works.

1) It takes signal from piston suction.
2) When piston goes down(including crank start), fuel regulator will open according to piston vacuum force. Faster piston goes down, stronger suction created, fuel regulator give more fuel pressure for injectors.
3) An open loop program was implemented for idling(start car). This will allow a small LEAKING opening for fuel regulator, to ensure your engine doesn't stall.
4) During high speed cruising, when you suddenly release gas pedal and hit the brakes, the throttle flap will close. When this happen, vacuum suction will suddenly increased because the atmosphere was blocked.

Last year I have explained how vacuum related to FC is because of this. If 17in/hg is idling, when you press the gas pedal, throttle flap open. More outside air easily flow in, vacuum reading will raise from 17 to 10in/hg, if you go WOT, vacuum will rased up to 0in/hg because outside atmosphere is totally opened for engine suction. Lesser vacuum reading, more fuel pressure applied by fuel regulator. Suddenly, when you release gas pedal, vacuum tarik beyond 17in/hg goes right down to 25in/hg. This is because your throttle flap is now closed, outside atmosphere was blocked. When your piston goes down, it create extremely strong vacuum, so it will shut tight the fuel regulator. Then your engine braking comes.

My point is, if key position was left ON for a long time, by right it doesn't cause no fuel supply, But there ins't piston movement(suction), no vacuum was created. So, fuel will be LEAK into the combustion chamber. Which is why fuel overflow happens. And, you are right about keep on pumping fuel to fuel regulator. Fuel regulator was there to REGULATE the amount of fuel to flow through fuel rail. The more leakage, less pressure on the fuel line, fuel pump will continue supply again provided key is in ON position.

I hope I explain it well for your knowledge. To agree with your statement, only if GaGa was parked downhill provided low petrol balance in tank, fuel pump suck air Then ma no fuel supply lor. So, jangan marah² I'm a fucking decent person. It's not everytime TEET will work geh, especially in flawed designed GaGa

Oh ya!!! Forgot jor, my Shawie used to hab that plobrem oso lastaim Enclosed is video for troubleshooting, NOT MY KAR

http://youtu.be/w2WSS1KfPCo?t=44m37s

What's the different between your ECU and Noobdao's ECU? So, how much petrol is gonna be injected doesn't matter. The thing that matter is, as & when fuel pressure got low, fuel pump will start working, provided key is turned to ON all time.

Abang pinjam ciket

They don't feel it INSIDE the car geh. Sadly, GaGa despite having all the superb handling, but the steering feedback is so strong that it's keep on telling you LIMIT is around the corner. To correct you, it's not that MyBi crazy, is you too road safety conscious jek

Bcoz ayam habing hard time to chase my sister in law when she's driving it. From the back, I ady saw the car went senget 1 side, bodyroll like mad. Suprisingly, later when I ask mother in law, she say inside was perfectly fine. The amount of false signal (feeling to be safe) in MyBi is so huge (lack of actual road feedback), to an extend that even hitting a stone during corner, inside would just felt a small sway, whereas those who follow at the back could tell they'll be crashing in to longkang anytime soon.

Killer instinct, TitanRev is 1 of those underground well trained driver. All we do is stick it to the man, wait for the MyBi to make a huge mistake, either spin out, fly to moon or turtle. Trust me on this, if you weren't that eager chasing after that bitch, he wouldn't even dare to drive so recklessly. Just because you can do it at that speed, he's trying his best to outrun you. As long you know your limit, consistently give them pressure bite a little and let go, bite a little bit more and let go, then you can prepare camera to take the money shot already. Go and ask any of those speed racers, they did the exact same thing, pushing every corner to the limits, and the next time they try a higher limit. Speed was never a satisfaction, it's a delusional cocaine that draws you deeper and deeper. One that achieve better timing every round track, and he/she raise his bar on his limit every time he cross the chequered flag. Btw, congratulations kenjilew. This is exactly what running in him right now.

As for me, sorry I really turned unker already. No doubt the feeling is still strong, octane still running in the blood stream, but I can never utilize them anymore. At times I'll play along, at times I can't even properly engaged a full heel & toe action. I'm more FC conscious nowadays, provided the car still got 1.5 years installment need to go. I can't possibly risk it total loss. If back in the older days, I could have just left the MyBi slip pass me, whislt it trying to over take me, I could have sway my steering a bit and make him/her back Holland, or otherwise might as well pull hand brake to slide my tail to slam on their B pilar.

Enjoy thy GaGa. Take it slow, and let the good times roll.

Engine model and transmission model are imprinted on a steel plate located behind driver door pillar. You may find Luke's reply useful below.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Oct 14 2013, 07:07 AM

Oh... rupenyer So, firered SV, CBT ke MT? Kalo MT need to beware sebab takut nanti serbis mia time SC tarok salah minyak GB. Dudok mana? Nanti datang la TT. Welcome again to the big family. Still, as a senior member, would like to ask you another question since Bios is out of the pictar:

Huai jiu no bai MyBi

Check battery lug whether got fasten properly. How does it it shut off the engine? Does it goes klik klak klik klak uhuh uhuh cikak cikak pfffttt then only stall? Or suddenly out of nothing just engine off? Manual or CVT? Check the intake air filter also, see whether got sumbat or not.

http://youtu.be/w9_aYOrQlkQ?t=12s
This place always got speed cam geh, I've got away twice. Gut feeling nia, was with Luke doing midnight run.

lhwj has it fixed with extra washer to prevent the locking pin end ticking the clutch pedal arm.

RM1.5k for that stock unit(it probably only worth RM100 in reality). They had to jack up the price from the manufacturer, so they subcontractor who order that cheapo HU can take a 500% margin.

There's different type of component set. Read the RMS watt provided. Anything below 150watt is good to go. However, those speakers with >150watt readings, your HU may not able to pump up energy. Technically, any component set also can go in. U wanna plonk 4x 12" double coil triple magnet sub on all 4 corner also can, provided you can mount them. The problem lies between, whether you can hear anything with higher watt? Or whether can your speaker tahan with lower watt. Take out the original speaker and see, stock factory speaker rating usually 15~25W nia. With a 50W x 4 channel HU, it can easily make loud sound already. But when you turn the volume to 25, the speaker already cracked. If you're putting in speakers that run good on 300W on the stock HU, you'll probably need to turn the volume all the way to 33, just to hear sound like on a headphone.

Strongly suggest you go to the back of your car, plonk +- wire on the stock speaker, connect it to your component speaker(bass mid unit, no need the passive crossover), and listen whether the difference in volume compare to stock is significant. If the new speaker isn't far too less volume, then it's a good to go. If new speaker louder than the stock speaker, please throw it away already. Do remember, the WATT rating on these Caina made speakers are all boast. Usually they yield much lower spec(including SONY6x9 3 way speaker, that rated 200WATT but can't even tapau our stock 25W 5 inch).

So, good luck. U need to do some own research from now on. Don't cincai go buy stuff, in the end kenot use waste money.

55W vs 50W is very little difference only, so yes u can use them(provided the ratings are accurate).

Sam dah call blom?

Woranti woi