That is what we called, priority How? Your friend ready to dump it into the dumpster?

no siklet. just me and garybenjamin nia and u kenot join bcoz u too light to join

Bro ar, this 1 got already mei? If not got, faitit plonk since you're konar freak. Plonk ady can match GTR kinda feeling liao(other than actual ground speed is different).

Huat to do, kosmetik Mrs.YAB woulnd't think got plobrem geh But if no saisket, later she see got white kaler thing under the kar sure ask wtf is that geh

FYI, she didn't even notice added saisket at all Until lately she whack her ankle on the saisket to dust off sand on the shoe, then only she ask, how cum dis 1 bcum prastik geh? I told her she didn't notice Plotong did such a lousy job. Then point at a near by SE and show her. See? Ebibodi oso seim, prastik nia

I think... both of you also misunderstood. TitanRev was asking for this:


He was answering me that he ordered side lower bar


So, I think you still have the white rat

Yesh Deswai I install the ranjiao cacat sketing to kaber the dem bars

Is that advertisement? Or you're asking for review? Can I press?

Err... I should have suspected your so called "rear anti roll bar" in the first place. When you whack hard konar, your 1 side of the rear wheel being lifted(particularly inner rear wheel that pointing towards the konar), but your both front wheels are sticking on the ground because the ACTUAL front anti roll bar is working twice harder to twisting the front struts to keep your car on the ground.

Imagine, what happened in between your front and back wheels when the above happened That so called "chassis tuning expert" not only good in contradicting their own words, infact they put their produck where their mouth is, which contradicts their "strengthening" part

Drive safe guys. My usual konvoi marshal was killed in action this morning 3am.

More clarification needed.
1) When you drive straight, you let loose your hand. The car steer itself to the left, whilst your steering still remain straight?
2) Was it when you let loose your hand, the car steer itself to the left, your steering also automatically turn to the left?

Now, go to your living room. Kang kang your feet, point your left toe towards your left, right toe remain infront. U look to the ceiling and start walking forward with your left toe pointing to left. You only need few step to find out alignment sudah lari. Human toe is the center of alignment which point our direction. Everytime at the 100meter sprint track, if you running on bear foot, you'll notice everytime you sprint, your toe is the last body part lifting up, but it gave the direction. So, if the next step you decided to slightly point your toe to the side, chances are you will crash into your opponent. This is where the term TOE came from in automotive. Don't ask me, this is some 20 years old tale my previous magician share with me.

Usually run 1 side is because of toe out.



If toe out/in, you'll need to send to tire shop and redo your alignment. I know you have done it, please send in again to a different shop spend another RM15 better than finish your tires prematurely.

Old school petrol head like myself, we can easily identify toe in/out by 1 long string. Measure front part of both tires distance. Then measure both tires rear distance. The length should not differ. Certain home made tools are required to ensure we capture the correct circumference for measurement, but here I will not cover such topic.

RM48.50/piece and you need 2. Only rear spring is different from FLX. Front no need, unless you wanna change FLX front damper, which will cost about RM600/side.

Still procrastinating

Which xingahlan told you anti roll bar is different? Ask him/her cum see me On suspension setup, BLM/FL vs FLX the only difference are FLX has higher dampening rate for front damper and FLX has higher spring rejection rate at rear spring. Others all same.

Itu batang ar? Would you allow me to drive your car? Promise no gymkhana

Should've started mai own blawg

First of all, why alignment will lari? Take a look at the picture you posted. After the adjusting nut, immediately is the tie rod. That end was secured with a diameter around 3 inches rubber. After a while you drive, the rubber get harden, more free play on the tie end, you get all sort of funny toe reading.

Take not, the tie rod is attached on the knuckle that host the wheel bearing/drive shaft/disc brakes. At the bottom, it connected to another big bar, which is the lower arm. The connection point is a big round thing, that is the lower arm bush. If this part of rubber is too new(soft), your alignment will lari almost immediately after you drove off the alignment scale.

Just incase if you still not die heart to accept the fact alignment WILL lari, here's the picture of what normal LOWER ARM looks like.

There's another 2 more mounting points that will contribute to alignment lari other than the 1 I explained above.

The above are the major contributor of alignment lari. So, what about camber? Regardless, I have previously said, camber screw are after market part for those who can't afford to change suspension bushing. Have a look at below picture, you'll immediately know why camber goes out even didn't hit pot hole. As long those numbered part got movement, the rubber will wear off/get harden and create clearance. Once clearance became significant, then it become camber misaligned/toe misaligned or both.



Ady TT with my new boifren liao

Which is why your 3AT refused to drop gear Coz your higher RPM were useless, or to be more exact it's only a noise generator after that RPM. There's a reason why they name it TORQUE CONVERTER geh The amount of fluid passing around the fins are already fixed to the amount of torque it will change gear at certain speed



Toe lari. Pergi alignment lagi. Your current alignment totally fucked up.

Pay attention, after konar your steering will auto correct back or you need to force the steering to turn back? Get alignment guy to check whether steering bush sudah haus.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Oct 25 2013, 12:24 AM

So, basically your iswaga is 3 speed DSG. 1st and 3rd gear 1 clutch, 2nd and R gear 1 clutch

Torque konveter turbine flow already disturbed. Where possible got enough torque it drop gear, then suddenly realize over power and shift up again? As I told you, the turbine are fixed ratio. Only external factor will affect it's gear change decision. Wrong oil visco? Transmission clutch disc slipped? Many possibilities as automatic transmission has much more component controlled by kinetic movement physically than manual.

唔惊刁

Clutch slip liao lar Time to throw away AT box and go stick lar



Do some of this before you hit the track - take not on how the girl reacted AFTER the pod


This post has been edited by davidke20: Oct 25 2013, 07:27 AM

TitanRev



I don't know why, only happened after the installation. Never heard before that. Due to too busy, I couldn't dismantle the whole panel and check yet. But after further diagnosis, to found the source is from there. When driving inside, I once was trying to capture from the front passenger door, rear passenger door, retighten everything also same. At last, no choice ask Mrs.YAB drive the car, I hang myself out of the side window and found the source.

Benefit after Installing:
•Improve Car Stability at least 40% & above
40% of what? Which car? Saga? Omai... sorry I don't feel even tiny improvement on this 1.
•Reduce Understeer
All FWD car can reduce understeer by let loose the gas pedal. With or without the bar also can do.
•Improve Braking Performance
First time I heard... Install suspension member brace can improve braking performance
•Reduce Body Roll
Speechless... has nothing to do with suspension movement afterall, how in the hell can reduce body roll
•Improve Sharp Cornering
May be, due to reduced rear chassis bent
•Improve Safety Aspect & Comfort
Safety yes, especially on side impact. Comfort, no it didn't affect any
•Improve Handling Stability
May be, due to reduced rear chassis bent
•Highly Recommended for Street, Track, Drift, Rally, Autocross, Gymkhana, Drag Racing and etc
A drift car usually is a rear wheel drive. The axle will not allow to install member brace
Rally car will not prefer to have any extra iron bar poke out of the lower chassis, so as autocross
Drag racing, lighter the better. To strengthen a drag car, just drill hole and revet, no need bars other than roll cage
Street car, highly recommended for ricefulness
•Product Material: Light Weight Carbon Steel
Hot roll steel pipe, what carbon steel
•Official Color: Pure Solid White
They said they trade marked solid white. So, my car Proton Saga BLM Solid White already violated.
•Life Time Warranty
Haven't snap yet, kenot claim. That's a breather hole you moron, do not seal it off. At times the bar need to drink water from puddle. Drink until vomit yellowish stuff baru consider geng cao. U dare to seal it off, void warranty!

Nope, I spoke on behalf of Ular Cacing jek

[WTS] Ular Oren used
Selling off mine, used + prototype unit.

Condition: Dirty abit
Spec: 5 ft 300amp Prowell Power Cable
Heat resistance: Up to 600v 125'C
Connections: 300amp copper lug on exit, 200amp on entry.
New price: RM19.60 @ cost
Letting go at: RM15 ngam mou?
Reason for selling: Upgrade







This post has been edited by davidke20: Oct 26 2013, 08:53 AM