compare to many stance kaki my car is not low is quite high. I still can go over bump straight no need to go over like snake. I still can put my palm between the wheel gap....I'm using 15 inch....no sagat issue even with my wife and 10Kg stuff behind....

Your front using adjustable top mounts? if no check tie rod bushing...when you lowered the car too much your tie rod move upwards and your tie rod bushing pressure point change.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 23 2013, 04:01 PM

Why run? because thanks to our moon like road surface and sub standard road.....road get repaved not even 6 months go dig a trench to lay cable then just do some half pass six patching job on the dug area end up after some times the patched area start to sink in and TADA you have a killer ditch that would ruin your car.

You try going to Port Klang area and try driving there with all the container trailer, guarantee your testicle also fall out from it's sack....even on highway you have some patched area that is done very lousy.

Is another reason why so many zig zag pro drivers are born here....cilok here cilok there to avoid pot holes and bumpy areas.

my best advice if want your alignment to last long best is to avoid hitting any potholes, dug area do slow down as much as possible. For my saga using adjustable I will avoid pot holes, badly patched surface at all cost. When come to a repatch trench. I will slow down to the slowest speed I can and just slowly drive pass it. I also prefer to drive over bump at low speed and not fly over them.....

For tire shop side, when you check your alignment please monitor the screen also so that you know whether its out or not. This can avoid the tire shop guy cheating you.

If you have the tools usually just 2 spanar, you can do your own alignment at home also. You just need a stretch of flat straight road. I did this when I change my suspension. I did it at home then only send to tire shop to check the figure if it's correct. but without machine you need to do a few times.
Here's a very good guide on DIY alignment
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/tech.../alignment.html

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 24 2013, 12:09 PM

coolkwc, TOE can be out due to some other factors like constant motion of the steering action, constant vibrations, shock. To add it only uses 1 nut as a jam nut to fix the location which is not a very sure way that the nut will stay there. In my factory my machine also have such thing like tie rod adjustment thing for the motor and the friction. But from time to time the jam nut get loose after a period of operation because of the vibration of the machine so we added another jam nut on top of that to reduce it or we put in a spring washer in between the jam nut and the locking surface.

You can glue it but when the tie rod end bush kong you need to take it out to replace also.

mahihi, end to end
front is app 18inch long, app 46cm
Rear is app 10.5inch long, app 27cm

yes, you can try.

yes 1 side mahihi..


dares, cant tt this friday sorry...

wah this jayraptor very geng....I just saw the thread....

Fu~~~just finished installing the SS braided hose and the UR side bar that come to my house yesterday afternoon apparently POS Laju send to the wrong house.

Installation process.
SS braided hose very straight forward job and not very difficult. I finish the job in 1 hour 15 mins including brake oil change. Some how the passenger front side hose protective housing got a kink and I accidentally teat a little bit..

Back hose


Front hose


Then I proceed to installing the side bar. At 1st I act pandai thinking no need to use car jack manatau my car lowered so very difficult to work....act pandai mia pasal wasted 20mins. When I put on the bolt I find that the front mounting hole was a bit small and I cannot slot in the bolt so I used a rough rounded file to file the hole a bit and make it bigger and not easy also since I was lying down on my back to reach under the car....

Then after put on the bolt I also put on the side bar....NMGH!!!! installing the side bar proof to be more difficult than it looks from picture.... as you put the side bar up you need to align the bolt with the bar hole so that you can put the nut and washer but it was sibeh difficult because the bolt keeping moving out of place....and as I was working alone no one was there to help me the uncle who help me pump brake already go home eat dinner....so I use everything I can find shoe box, tool box to try to support the other end of the bar so my 2 hands can focus on the nut....it took me so damn long to just pasang 1 side. Then I move on to the other side after I finish my whole shirt is all wet because of my sweat...even my car porch the floor also got my sweat....seriously I think the bar should have come with installation guide....


1st impression on the hose, braking now is more direct and spongy feeling no more. Now my brake start to bite with little brake apply. Braking feel definitely improved a lot. On the side bar not yet can give any input because not yet really test but got a bit of sound maybe not tighten enough after go check again...very tired now hand all kebas...

yup. IMP brand

thanks but very tiring.....ZzzzZZzzzzz

Just retighten again the side bar abit loose. after midnight go out test run

What? 999 songs still not enough? @_@

A short review on the side bar after a night of test driving yesterday.

After installing my side bar, I found that my rear is behaving better comparing to before feels like the rear and front is more connected. Before this, my steering respond and handling of the car is quite nice already but the rear seems to have a mind of it's own in following the front and sometimes sudden change from 1 direction to another direction prompted the rear to skip a beat compare to the front and it wanders too much. In the beginning I have no plan to install the side bar and I thought if I keep tuning the suspension the problem will go away but I decided to give the side bar a shot.

Now with the side bar the rear follows what the front do every time monkey see, monkey do. The front turn in, the rear just follow as it is and on corner the rear feels more settle compare to before, which previously felt a bit unsettle. Sudden change of direction is much better now that I don't feel the rear going off on it's own. Now the car is just point and shoot when I wanted it to. Yesterday main test was mostly doing corners and change of direction (situation where you will mostly get at hair pin turn and those left right left right overlapping turns you get mostly on trunk roads.) In which I believe the side bar is for.

The only thing I really hate on the side bar is the installation process. It is difficult as F*ck and I think clear indication should be label on the bar left or right and installation guide should be provided.

This is just my very layman experience and I think on next TT maybe can go for another night drive with davidke20 and let him have gave his feedback on this also.

I want your hose by V12K.....gooding yo....I try to make with PU material but no fit...

Errr...I forgot the course already hahahahaha...

Items to go into the car when I have enough $$$ and when time is right....the stock meter is really laggy and not helping me at all....LCP to make the engine more lively and rev happy....

Mythelogy got a rubber damper but for the Works without the damper but it the Pro balance series...Price wise Myth is more costly but see how la...

ericmaxman, I got 20% increase on power and torque from this ATI Super Damper Crank pulley...
http://aamcompetition.com/i-7791416-ati-r3...ank-pulley.html

but for small NA engine wont have so much increase compare to big CC force induction.

I will die very fast....straight boost at 2000rpm and peak torque at 2000rpm and timing belt slip + 50KG ARB....bang tree die~~

I cannot only the raptor dinosaur can. So Kenji you faster change ur timing belt to basikal chain it will be more efficient and more pooooooooowaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh
Guarantee this mod peak boost 2000rpm, peak torque 1000rpm (much better than raptor dino) remember at the 50kg arb so when you full boost and peak torque u won't straight sway to the side and bang tree. Also don't go tuner shop do Dnyo use the ori Dnyo figure from Proton because all those Dyno machine made in china wrong figure one so my R35 750hp also wrong one only have 75hp

Aiya, not fun one la my car. 75hp play what 7. No full boost and peak torque at 2000rpm and no 50kg ARB and no timing belt slip....I think if I can make my saga belt slip enough I can create slip stream on my car...

If want to play I want to play with raptor Dino car...


I'm selling off my 35 and get a tractor...

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 25 2013, 03:32 PM

U no change how to be fast...now faster go bicycle shop and buy 3 sprocket and 1 chain kasi convert timing chain. Buy 1bag 50kg cement and make a ARB out of it

common grade and high grade??

I found my MT fill hole...so stupid that I didn't look further up...drain hole is in front.


This was the turbo Kenji was so excited about....Hahahahaha


I also found out those fake ASR frame and BEAKS bars that improve the handling but look how it is mounted on the rear frame..only 1 bot holding the thing in place...mounted on a Satria....