I've get used to check my car tires before start to drive. Every time I go out after lunch come back I sure walk 1 round at my car before get in....already become habit.

I can imagine the sound now already...Arrrhhhhhgg!!!

Dares, tell him go fix it, it's very annoying and irritating....


after I go crazy hearing those sound...

I'm interested...

I go....yooooo~~~why no fix the sound geh.....

mahihi, 3max got fender bar for gaga? if got please PM me. TQ

Nvm then, because I saw they have for wira

You can just plumb a OCT on the PCV there also...run 2 OCT. or combine into 1.

About the WS spraying water one. Get a friend to press the spray function for you with the ignition on but engine off. Listen if there's a small whining sound from the driver side front tire area (near the fog light). There's where your water spray motor is at. If no sound means motor not running (maybe socket loose or motor rosak or spray function fuse blown) If got sound but no water come out or water spray out very weak use a paper clip or needle to poke at the hole sometimes it is stuck at the nozzle there.

I use N let it roll by itself.

ericmaxman mau DIY PnP TB ah....very easy one....if never do before don't use DREMEL or power tool 1st because will easily screw up if hand not steady. Hand more slower and take more time but reduce chances of screwing up the TB. Remember our TB is DBW so don't soak it in cleaner or degreaser. Just spray some on old rag then wipe clean bit by bit even for PnP job.....then use compressed air to blow clean.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 22 2013, 11:59 AM

should be tight. whether it's cable or DBW. You can try put a finger through the butterfly valve and let go the valve and let it press on your finger for a couple of seconds. I bet you will be screaming....pain pain pain....1st hand experience...

I just got my SS braided hose delivered to me this morning. Nice stuff....next is side bar then hopefully Mahihi's ARB can come out faster.....there's still much to do on the car since I still not very satisfy with the handling on some areas.

Hahahaha Niama~

I order already but not yet come...


Do the check like how I posted earlier. Then as other member said check the water tank see got water or not.

No need sideskirt gua....


Y u no tell earlier...Hahahahaha...I think Kenji will be glad to become white rat.....

On track or street my suspension is still ok. I would say 85% on point but still got some tiny little part I have to settle it.

Sigh~~just now go home I day dreaming bang my house gate....gate 0, FLX 1 sure kena scold by my wife jor....already call gate fabricator to come and need to wait few days for him to change new gate....pocket koyak....
I open the gate already but the wind blow it back didn't notice it then bang whole gate fly off and the hinges broken....but lucky car no harm...

Sky dark dark.....

WTF...

The car in the pic sont look like a caterham 7. You can tell from the roll cage and side body panel. Being caterham they don't use Nissan engine. That's a sr20 on that car could be a Genki sr20 red top or a kouki sr20 black top if can see the slant downwards at the back of the engine top. Could be a in house built tube frame kit car.

Ok I will check and let u know

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 23 2013, 02:22 AM

H7...4 pcs

Note: please read through your user manual it came FOC with the car...

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 23 2013, 02:41 PM

Well if proper procedure. Only the wiring for the horn system will be voided since it is tampered well that's for me but given here locally. You touch any wire whole care system wiring also voided one....they will say This sudah tukar not ori....this sot this and sot that cause ECU problem causes bla bla bla BS....electrical system waranty void. This is what my previous Head of Department teach me....but I was against it since it's no logic....

Google BLM engine bay pic and FLX engine bay pic...maybe can help.


I no paham what you said???


I can't 100% guarantee

Not just Proton, other car manufacturer also like this. To be fair and point to the root cause, is the mentality of the local supervisor or lead tech for each brand. Under proper procedure, when a car come in with electrical problem.

1st, we listen what the customer tell us the problem then proceed to diagnose the car and try to locate the problem with diagnostic tools.

2nd, after we locate the problem we will find what causes it which leads to tracing job (wiring, relay, sockets) that is connected to the problem. Example if customer complain, high beam not working after check bulb is ok we will check the socket and the subsequent wiring and trace it all the way to the fuse box, relay and the signal stalk to find the problem. If owner made any unauthorized modification that could cause the problem then replacing that part will be on owner's charge since it is tampered but other systems like signal, parking lights all if not tampered then warranty still apply.

Here when car comes in with electrical problem, if the technician can't solve it, it will be handled by the lead tech so if customer go ask the technician can claim warranty or not the technician also cannot give you definite answer is the SA or the lead tech that writes in the warranty claim.

But electrical diagnostic is not easy job since it involve a lot of time and patience and thinking. It is much harder than mechanical diagnostic. Because of this majority here just take short cut....you come in with electrical problem they will try to find any electrical stuff that is fitted outside and blame on it. Compare to proper diagnostic which one more simple and can go home at 5pm sharp and less work and no need to write long report for warranty claim and still get salary? Blame blame blame....

For conti cars that is running CANbus system like my Peugeot with BSI which literally controls the door lock, dash gauges, power windows, radio, heater, lightning system, alarm, some newer control AC and radio also....is much much more difficult and really a PITA when it gives you problem. That's why for conti cars want to do any wiring job you don't simply send to any half pass six ACC shop. Just a simple, tap the power from the BSI will give you a Error message already....

CANbus system, is easy for mechanic to diagnostic problem down to even the smallest one like a door solenoid malfunction but not modder friendly one...

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 23 2013, 03:42 PM

adjustable user here..I'm using HWL anyway...my car don't have this problem. Doing 160 hand off the steering car still go straight...

Have you check your tire pressure?

Do check your tie rod also

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Oct 23 2013, 03:52 PM