well...i on the light at night and off during the day
ARO-MANIACS in da house, Red,24k Gold,RTG,XBack,Green,Pearl,YT...
ARO-MANIACS in da house, Red,24k Gold,RTG,XBack,Green,Pearl,YT...
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Jan 13 2007, 12:39 AM
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#261
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Senior Member
1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
well...i on the light at night and off during the day
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Jan 13 2007, 12:03 PM
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#262
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
for me, feeder fish must have this 2 skill.....swim slow and floating swimmer....
easier for aro to eat, and the fish that has this 2 skills are..GOLDFISH and GUPPY !!! |
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Jan 14 2007, 02:14 AM
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#263
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
bro i got tips for you....no point to keep your aro with koi....the koi will not live long....
get a tank, den get some 'serbuk mabuk' from the fish shop, they have it....put it int othe pond most of the fish will mabuk...get the arowana out and pit him in the tank aro is side view fish put in pond for display is a waste...get a 5ft x 2.5ft tank for your aro...he will never bang crack a 1.2cm thick glass ! den get some fin rot powder for your koi, try to do a water change add the medicine, after all this u will have a nice koi pond and a beautiful arowana for display ! |
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Jan 15 2007, 08:30 AM
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#264
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
QUOTE(serewen @ Jan 14 2007, 10:26 PM) Frog constains bacteria and parasites,why must use frog to feed?And I heard aro's main dish is only fishs and prawns. Types of FoodsLive Fish - Let's start with the most controversial food. Almost any fish that will fit into an Arowana large mouth will become Arowana food. Goldfish, baby koi, baby catfish and small chidlids are commonly used and can be easily bought in the appropriate size at most pet shops. They contain a lot of vitamins and minerals that the fish needs to grow and thrive. Another advantage is that the fish does not have to be 'trained' to take in such food because this is what instinct tells it to eat, and this is likely what the distributors and pet dealers were feeding it before you bought it. Wild caught larger fish may refuse to take anything else. To supply your Arowana with additional nutrients or medications you can feed them to feeder fish right before giving them to your Arowana. So live fish sounds great, why bother with anything else. Like everything in life there is a downside to feeding live fish. There is potential risk of disease transmission when this type of food is used. Experts feel that feeder fish may carry certain diseases and parasites that are harmful to the Arowana such as fungus. Some fishes, like goldfish are rich in fat. Goldfish are also believed to contain enzymes that will lead to vitamin B or vitamin E deficiency. Another disadvantage is that the Arowana might hurt itself in the process of chasing his meal and many believe it makes the Arowana more aggressive when fed live foods. You can reduce the injury by removing all the décor found in the tank, making it safer, but less aesthetically pleasing, although they will still crash into the tank walls during pursuit. Others believe that 'pop-eye' found in older Arowana are caused by feeding fatty fish and a lack of gravel on the bottom of the tank causes the Arowana to constantly look down at its own shadow only making it worse. Pellet Foods - Ok, now let's go to the other extreme. Most aquarium food manufacturers make pellet food or stick food for carnivorous fish. One manufacturer, Hai Feng even makes a food specifically for Arowana. According to Hai Feng "Gold fish, Mosquito Fish and Live Shrimp have been used to feed Arowana and other large carnivorous fish by most hobbyist. But the benefits to the color of Arowana from these live foods are limited. In addition, live foods often make Arowana aggressive, and encourage them to attack other fish. It also tends to cause fattening of the inner eyelids. To prevent those live food's disadvantages, HaiFeng proudly introduce you the Ever Nature Arowana Fish Food which contains all of the nutrition for Arowana. Through many years of research and development, we guarantee to bring out the best in both the color and the health of your fish." This is the Hai Feng feeding guide: Crickets - One of the healthiest choice to feed your Arowana, but only use farmraised crickets that are sold in fish shops eliminating the threat of pesticide. Crickets are nutritious food, it will enhance its color and simulate growth and the risk of disease transmission is very low. Most Arowana love crickets and you can feed them lots, but one bad point is that the Arowana might reject other foods. Use the appropriate size crickets for your Arowana and remove the hard shell when feed to small fish to avoid intestinal injury. You may feed the crickets fish food, vitamin A foods like rice or carrots before feeding it to Arowana. This is a good way to transfer nutrients to the Arowana and enhance color. Crickets may be frozen or purchased freeze dried for convenience but the percentage of nutrients retained is uncertain and requires further study. Grasshoppers - An alternative to crickets but can dirty the water because of the leftover wings and legs if not removed. Centipedes - Very nutritious food . Commonly used in Asia to enhance and intensify the color of Arowana. Unfortunately the availability of this food is low and of course be careful that wherever you dig them up they have not been exposed to insecticide. Frozen centipedes can sometimes be found. Cockroaches - First of all, yuck!!! Live cockroaches should be used as dead ones may have been sprayed with insecticide. If you insist, keep the cockroach for a couple of days before using it to insure it is not insecticide contaminated. Now if keeping a cockroach for a couple of days doesn't get to you go for it. Just don't invite your significant other to participate lest you not have a significant other very long. Shrimp and Prawns - Prawns/shrimps are rich in protein, vitamin A, and carotene, which enhance Arowana's color in addition to being very nutritious. Head, tail fin, and shells should be removed when feeding small Arowana as they are hard to digest and may cause intestinal injury. These parts are where the carotene is derived and can be left on for larger Arowana's but the pincers and sharp frontal spines should still be removed. There is also a potential risk of disease transmission. Fresh prawns from the market can be frozen into many smallerpackets and defrosted daily as required, however one should avoid frozen prawns unless you are very sure of its freshness as denatured protein may lead to liver and internal problems in long term. Regardless of size, you may want to try feeding your fish with totally peeled shrimp at first, letting the fish get used to it, before feeding them with the shells on. Some promote removal of head as it is hard to digest and also the gill may have high concentration of germs/toxin. Krill - A nutritious food and readily available. Use appropriate size krill. You might crush the shell and soak the krill to soften the shell prior to feeding small Arowana to avoid intestinal injury. Earthworms - Earthworms are a favorite and are eagerly taken. They are very healthy and nutritious with minimal risk of disease transmission. Earthworms can be collected with the use of use some potassium permanganate by dissolving the crystals in a bucket of water until the water turns medium purple in color. Pour the water onto an area where you think the worms have burrowed and wait a short while. Within a couple of minutes, if there are any worms, they will be popping up out of the ground. The effects of the potassium permanganate on Arowana has yet to be studied. I would recommend against its use. Make sure that no insecticides are used in the place where you catch your earthworms. Feeding the earthworm with nutritious food to clear the soil and transfer the nutrient is highly recommanded. Mealworms - Arowana love them. Mealworms are cheap, healthy, and nutritious for adult Arowana containing lots of protein, but should be avoided for feeding baby Arowana due to their hard shell. The darker the worm, the harder the shell. Try the light ones for smaller Arowana. Bloodworms - Bloodworms are mainly used to feed baby Arowana and are nutritious, but should be rinsed to remove impurities. Feeding when frozen is not recommended. Live bloodworms are preferable but commercially available bloodworms are equally good when fresh. Freeze dry bloodworms may also used. Tubifex Worms - Tubifex worms are collected in highly contaminated areas and should be avoided unless properly treated. Commercially breed tubifex worms claim to be cleaner but this is sometimes questionable. This goes to frozen tubifex worms as well. Freeze dried tubifex worms are cleaner but possibility of germs as well as other contaminants are still not totally eliminated. Frogs - A favorite food for Arowana. Very nutritious food for Arowana and are commonly used in Asia but be sure they are not poisonous. Dead frogs should not be used. Some believe that frogs enhance color. Lizards - Very nutritious and often loved by the fish. A good occasional treat. Fish Meat - Fresh fish meat can be used. I have heard of Arowana being trained to accept strips of raw fish by hand. Trim all the fat away and cut them to bite size, wash them before use to avoid contamination of the water. Be careful with frozen fish. If it is old, the denatured protein may lead to sickness. Beef heart - Feeding beefheart to the Arowana will help it to grow faster and bigger. Fat must be removed or it will dirty and make the water oily and accumulated fat might contribute to Dropeye. Chicken heart - An alternative to beef heart, it provides nearly the same amount of protein but contains less fat. *Note 1 - Do not feed insects with sharp or very hard shells. This is rumored to cause the fish's stomach to be injured and could be fatal. *Note 2 - Be careful with insects due to the possibility of insecticide contamination. Many homes and yards are treated with insecticides. Insects exposed may still be living, but continued ingestion by your Arowana will build up and eventually kill it. Don't risk it. *Note 3 - Vitamin supplements are commonly used. They can be added to the water and/or most foods can be soaked or injected with vitamin supplements and they are available from many sources. |
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Jan 15 2007, 08:31 AM
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#265
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
Feeding Your Baby Arowana
When Arowana are harvested very young they sometimes have what looks like a rubber bladder protruding from their abdomen. This yolk sac must not be disturbed. This is their alevin stage. The sack will soon be absorbed into their bodies. While this is happening your Arowana will not be too interested in food. His yolk sac provides him with balanced nutrition. Once his yolk sac has vanished he will want to eat and one should have a few baby guppies or baby mollies in the tank for food. Be careful there are no other fish to compete for this first meal which is very important. Once your new Arowana starts eating you are pretty much home free. These first few weeks are a good time to introduce alternative foods such as pellets as most Arowana are very receptive during this period. Sidebar - Why are Arowana, primarily the two South American species of Arowana, the Black Arowana, Osteoglossum ferreirai, and the more common Arowana, Osteoglossum bicirrhosum, harvested so young. Both species are collected by Indians will harpooning an adult Arowana for food. While dressing it out, he will cut off the head to see if any fry are inside the pocket area of the lower jawbone. Being mouth brooders this is practically the only way to get fry. See the breeding chapter for more information of the mouth brooding habits of Arowana. These babies, if present, are usually still in the process of absorbing their yolk sacks and are scooped out of the mouth and placed in a bucket of water to sell later to a tropical flsh exporter. This may seem like a terrible method of collecting baby Arowana for the tropical fish trade but in reality it is not cruel. The adult fish is eaten like any any other fish in the world. The fry, which would normally perish are saved due the aquarium market for Arowana. Due to this method of collection, the supply is erratic and somewhat seasonal. The fish go through a rapid changing of hands. Picked up from the Indian by a local trader, then to exporter, then to air cargo, then to importer, then to a wholesaler, then to your local fish store. Losses are high due to the fragile state of the fry when collected with their delicate yolk sac. The young Arowana are thoroughly stressed and must be given experienced care if they are to survive. Follow the guidelines in the care section and pay attention to the "Feeding Your Very Young Arowana" in the feeding section. |
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Jan 15 2007, 08:33 AM
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#266
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
i made few Aro Keeping Manuals hahaha if you want them, send add me in yahoo or msn. will send it to you.
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Jan 15 2007, 11:53 AM
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#267
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
thats from arofanatics ! i saw it before ! cool swimming gold bar hehehe...
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Jan 15 2007, 01:33 PM
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#268
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
i hope mine can be like that too !!! but mine is so far away...from being like that, sob sob...
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Jan 15 2007, 09:44 PM
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#269
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
post 1 nice pic of your fish here lo...den i try ask my fren to buy from you...
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Jan 15 2007, 10:47 PM
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#270
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
lol....wah seh upgrade to RTG already lo....hahahha make it fast !!! i want to see !!!
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Jan 15 2007, 10:58 PM
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#271
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
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Jan 16 2007, 08:11 AM
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#272
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have to wait cause the new cannister water condition is different with the previous wan. just watch the water paramaters and after a few days it will be alright. do not feed for few days add water treater and some vitamins.
hope this helps. |
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Jan 16 2007, 05:41 PM
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#273
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
hahaha just see only la, that fishs cannot buy wan la...better u spend 20k make comm red lol...
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Jan 16 2007, 09:31 PM
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#274
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Senior Member
1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
good luck with your new project !!! make sure u post some photos !!!
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Jan 17 2007, 12:03 PM
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#275
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
intro 2 froggies to my aro yesterday....yum yum ...1 bite for each and they are down to his tummy...lol...den later at night don wan eat too full hahahaha, this mroning 12 SW worms for breakfast...
he is 14 inch now...head to tail...1yr old from the day he was tagg !!! |
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Jan 17 2007, 04:26 PM
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#276
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
but don know doing the correct way or not....i am trying a 3 diff diet for this bugger....
Super Worms Foggies Centipedez DAYS/TIME Morning Evening Night Monday - SW.........SW........SW Tuesday - SW..........SW.........SW Wednesday - SW.........Frog.........SW Thursday - SW.........Frog.........SW Friday - SW.........SW.........SW Saturday - SW.........CP/SW.........SW Sunday - SW.........CP/SW.........SW sure hope he gets fat fast This post has been edited by c0c0nut: Jan 17 2007, 04:32 PM |
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Jan 17 2007, 04:42 PM
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#277
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
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Jan 18 2007, 12:07 AM
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#278
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
must pump...if aro color not nice...pump ! den people will still say 'WAH!' your aro so big....nice oh nice oh....like mine lo...color not nice...so make him hunky ! lol
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Jan 18 2007, 06:46 AM
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#279
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
MG ??? hard la my aro too small trade in price not good.
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Jan 18 2007, 05:03 PM
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#280
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1,970 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Malacca |
the pump itself noisy or the vibration from the pump ?...cos mine is like 12ringgit wan too, just put some hard cotton at the bottom to absorb the vibration...walla job done.
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