altecs use 4ohms driver... i don't think its suitable for those amps above.... try class D amp

you don't just put monster tayar on your on your kancil?
if at this rate you going... its gonna be a franken shitz at the end
pair it correctly mar

you probably not using the original power brick....
since the speakers so small, there shouldn't be an issue... just whack whatever....but if you are anal, the power ratings and voltages is indicated on the rear cover of the speaker itself, go figure which is the closest match =)

hmmnn i don't have batteries in my camara right nao... =) need to go buy some laters... but you can easily trace the connections to respective end easily, first remove the original 5pin and solder your own cables to higher quality connectors... there is only 4 wires (including common ground) leading to volume micro switches and LED the other 2 L-R and also a common ground.

for CHEAP and good caps upgrade, go for Elna(bright sound) Panasonic (nice and cheap punchy bass) in the signal path(mostly 1uf and 2.2uf caps)
upgrade the 1000uf to 2200uf. change the power filters to nippon chemicon or panasonics for better stability, warmer bass and better volume control(10 000uf and 100uf)
don't worry about voltage in this set as long as you don't use lower than 16v

add the pics later i'm just got home nao =)

heh, most of them are babies. they expect us to spoonfeed yhem immediately witout doing homework.

=) most don't even turn up when after request filled
best part about it is not even a thank you 90% of the time haha
unless you are following thread, don't request =)

ACS45.1 controls... trace the wires back to your board.. according to color

the thick RED, GREEN and BLACK is speaker right,left and ground

ATP3 has new version and old version, this is the new (cut cost) version.

yes, nao you just trace the wires back to the board using a multitester or batteries with led/lightbulb

desolder the 7pin thingy out first, attach it back to the plug, cut the wires, trace each wire color to destination

heh, grumpy. needed to open my sets up for you all. get your own pics next time!! =D

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 14 2011, 03:05 PM

heh, no problem. i am just grumpy at times =)
black plastik cover thingy is just glued there, unscrew and peel/pry it out.. no problem to put it back. you can be more hard it doesn't break easily.
OH YEAH YOU NEED A LONG SCREWDRIVER to unscrew heatsink then only black plastic

after removing the black plastic, it is much easier to see what goes where =)
happy modding =)

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 17 2011, 12:17 AM

traced the R/L for you...

get yourself one of this... it'll do the rest of the math for you

and USE A SUCKER to remove the 5pin thingy

powerfilter 10000 cost around 17-18 bucks each
do this first! it'll be a noticable stability

or use whatever else that rokcs your boat....

to answer your next question....
nope, i triesd. wasting good caps on speakers...

use regulars instead.....

you can change opamps, but i'll reccomend 4558 stock for this one (counterstrike sound)

4558 is the eight leg square...

don't bother changing anything else, not value for money

16v and above... for all... depends on your pocket.... and availability
for best result, change to a reputable brand. badcaps.net for reference what is good or bad

10000uf first (stability)RM17-18

1000uf to 2200uf (sats have better range) RM1 each

220uf (sub sound stability)

2.2uf and 1uf for signal path (clarity and punchier bass)

my advice for practical best results. you should actually change all the cables (internal and external) before changing components inside =)
also, it has the best value for money mod. it takes some time to burn-in.
so the cables might make your set sound strange when newly changed

AND DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU THAT ALTEC TRACE COMES OFF EASILY
careful, desoldering the parts out... use a sucker!

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 17 2011, 09:24 PM

10x1000uf small bird bass can lar....

when suck power big bass come that time mar BZZzztbrakc brack sound and smoke

gRRrrRRRRrrr



don't ask me if it blows up =)

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 18 2011, 06:56 PM

what digital data? analog speaker (ACS45.1) where got?
such a simple trace directly to the same point thingy
don't complicate things...



congratulations! you have did it!
just turn it on and watch the if it explodes or burn up!
otherwise, assemble and enjoy =)

i just noticed. lol Tim_HKG created a new account here just to do this thingy =)

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 20 2011, 02:26 AM

yay! no smoke and fire! thanks to you too =)! i love acs45.1!!
BTW using old PSU cables is sounds crap. try using network cables instead... for the sats....
and use RCA, drill 2 new holes for it


for the volume control wires use a little hot glue to seal up the hole from the inside....

*kicks* yala yala i'm emo-ass-o mar.... hahaha

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 22 2011, 08:19 PM

welcome back after that confusing commercial break by stan =)
(i don't understand what you trying to saying hahaha)
lets look at the weather nao =) its sunny outside...
i've downgraded my 2020 to 45.1 and damn it sounds better! especially with that damn dac!

also, it makes my sonic gear,eacan, divoom and whatever/anything sounds better... =)

hehe dun angry! pun intended!

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 23 2011, 01:42 PM

haha what are you selling stan?
normal soundcards, mac or pc is crap and is MASS produced
where can fight with your custom dac?

i am implying that
stock/modded 45.1 will lose to 2020 anytime
the only special property for 45.1 is the dirty sound
also, stock 45.1 sounds crappy.

yes, we all know that your custom dac beats most mass produced soundcards..
of course it will make ANY (low end/high end) set sound better.

whats mac and 2020 with shelf speakers gotta do with altec sound reproduction? that part confused me

you want to say something about altec or 2020 or mac or custom dac?
don't worry about grounding for this set... and don't really bother to upgrade the power cable... tha power amplifier inside is made to run on car batteries....

worry about your :
1# speaker cables, input cables and internal cables
2# caps. power filter FIRST then the rest

don't bother to overkill this set. at the end of the day with full mods... it will sound like a blaupunkt car headunit

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 23 2011, 11:42 PM

hmmn.. stan001 nebermind hahaha =)

i have a feelin about tim modding his set just for the wtf value (customised looks) direction
'oh i modded it, nice eh? uahhh fat cables!' hahaha
but i must compliment tim for his nice pictures while he is figuring his set out.

make sure you play counterstirke loud loud on it after mods!!! =)

i promise you that:

it definitely will sound bettar than stock but...
those nippon chemicon caps are gonna sound real bad on your set...


been there, done that =)

i bought some elnas last year


what blaupunkt car headunit looks like....

almost same stuff......


also to make your life easy =)
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/...ronics/1504.pdf

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 24 2011, 10:27 AM

the red elnas are usually stargets... they are too expensive for this set
black and gold are usually silmics which are even more expensive....

my recommendations are based on cheap, good and easy to buy if you are msian

for 10000uf you can use rubycon,panasonic or nippon

for the rest you can buy yellow or blue elna cap
or panasonic (M symbol) purplelish (looks black) gold or metallic blue type

a mix will be good, you tweak whre you like according to taste
pana has more punchy bass property..but the metallic blue ones go way smooth
elna regulars have 'bright' property

them not too expensive and sounds good! =)

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 26 2011, 07:49 PM

wiralution? when you sell the car at second hand dealer its still a wira not a evo 100

goo luck with your wira with ferari engine and 13 inch rims at the jpj and second hand car dealer hahaha =)

hmmn those caps bla bla its ok to keep them stock.... them not in signal path or critical just for stability
won't do any noticable difference in my opinion

but if you die also want to change them go shop at rsmalaysia and see what justify your set..

upgrading from 1000uf to 2200uf improves the frequency range
means your sound will more separation lower bass, higher highs bla bla bla

you don't have to replace the 0.1uf just leave it as stock.... it doesn't do much....
you can go ahead to replace it. but i didn't bother to trace it. so i don't really know where it goes. but since the value is so insignificant.... i can live with it =)

and please, change your capacitor in stages! (the biggest one to the smaller ones)
power filter first!!!!
change 1 type of cap. test. see if works? hear what it does? then change again then test.... that way... you'll know the faults and learn what does it do!
DON'T go ALL IN at once... you'll be scratching your head asking us more questions later.

This post has been edited by beggarmaster2000: Mar 29 2011, 07:03 PM