Official MSI | notebook reporting in... 

GE60-2OC got 1 MSata slot bro. Opened it when adding my ram.

the newer batch (the one with Sharkbay based processor) has one mSATA slot

Run with the battery inserted AT ALL TIMES if you plan to go full load. If not...  well, if I tell my broken adapter story one more time Elysian will flip again lol.

IF you want to run with your battery out (to save battery lifespan or something), go get an MSI spec (Toshiba/Acer seems to use the same AC jack) 120w adapter from eBay or something. Otherwise you run the risk of toasting your AC adapter.

On a lighter note, my Killer WIFI arrived edi, now waiting for my delicious cheapo Hynix DDR3L to come in. Lai lai lai.

good for You MATE!

keep win8... unless you want the hassle of hidden problem downgrade win7...  by way SSD design win8..

woo im confuse...  you are using Win8 now  right?  so what you wanted to transfer?  or you already using Win7 ...

Edit: just use win8 add start button by download FREEWare start button http://www.classicshell.net/ then it feel like win7 ...but faster when you using SSD boot time with win8 is 8-12 sec

Depends on which SSD you plan to buy. Some brands include a migration software (essentially a cloning software) for example Samsung, etc. Otherwise you may use third party software like EASEUS, Acronis, Paragon, etc. Some software are freeware, some paid so choose wisely.

I suggest you do plenty of reading because Windows 8 installation is a little different. Things such as UEFI Secure Boot, GPT partitions, etc. Do remember that your Windows 8 product key is embedded in your BIOS so activation is now automated (no need to key in anything). Its important to ensure your choice of cloning software supports all these things unique to Windows 8.

Alternatively you may also start from scratch. First is to get a software to read your Windows 8 product key. Download a legit copy of Windows 8 from Microsoft using your product key. Burn them to disk or onto USB drive, then boot and install from there. MSI should provide a driver/utilities CD that will allow you to re-install all the necessary.

Lastly remember to make a copy of your factory image by running Burn Recovery. Very important. If you screwed up, at least you can start all over again.

As you all know,I'm still new gaming using notebook 

Now I only have HWiNFO64 app to monitor my cpu and gpu temps

How do I get the one showing in game?

Just started playing Hitman Absolution in Ultra settings for graphic settings can't tell if the fps is good

Damn. I can actually make a research paper on WIFI cards now.

Long story short: I'm back on the Intel Advanced-N 6235. Supposedly it's the card with the WORST driver issues but right now, it's the only one pushing 1.2MBps through my home WIFI - without ANY problems (on STOCK Win 8 drivers of course).

Stock Realtek/Azurewave - Disconnection issues. Single Band.
Killer 1202 - Connection instability. Disconnection issues. Dropouts. Timeouts. Bluetooth mouse problems. Just thankful I didn't buy this crap for full price.
Broadcom Dual-Band N + 4.0 BT - Damn thing didn't even start.

Granted, all WIFI problems come in 2 parts: a) Adapter Issues and b) Router Issues, and my router (TP-Link Gigabit Single Band Advanced N) isn't quite the best out there, but right now, the 6235 is surprisingly giving me the least grief.

Maybe later when I've upgraded my home router I'll give the Killer another chance. But right now, I'm simply surprised that it's "GAMING GRADE" when it can't even download anything for more than 3 minutes without disconnecting.

Yep, probably router. What routers are you connecting to?

Right now everything's working best with the Intel though so I'll stick with that. I'll check out the Killer again later. It worked BETTER with the "connection manager" turned off though so that was peculiar.

As for bluetooth, like I said it's not really an issue unless you have a Bluetooth mouse that likes to sleep like the Orochi.

BTW, running full 16GB of DRR3L feels like... what I was running before LOL - besides being able to confidently claim warranty now lol.

Sifu, how hot can GE40 be when not playing high end game?
Not a hardcore gamer, but want to get a laptop for work and capable to run games like CS, SG, and maybe Warcraft or Diablo.
like the weight and battery life (6.5hours?), but worry of the heat.
So, I am thinking of GP60, GE40, or GE60

Read this before buy
irresponsible seller
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3012662&hl=

IS GE40 worth for gaming? (I mean it does not come with steel series keyboard and no backlight)
Can reviewed it to me?

How about battery life?
How is the screen quality?
Can tell me the heat?

BTW, I'm a little tight budget, any better model if I topup a little bit?
Sorry for long question...