im 4g1 he prolly campro ke ape? then manual/auto, sure la different...

BUT STILL TENGOK TIME MA SURE TAPAU ME

ampun kenjilew

that's what i did with my rebuilt engine, red lining it to 7k rpm

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

my valve cover gasket long time gg, lolz!

crank/cam oil seals also minor leak

who cares can't last long, i care more about performance and comfort

he very in the middle punya placement, i second last

i bring cd2 peksan, and unsurprisingly, crash

i use ad08r on elite speeday woh. actually... LAGI FASTER BOTAK XD

personally i change because the water pump for most proton cars aren't cheap however labor to open up your timing belt (which includes disassembling the water pump) can cost almost a brand new gmb original water pump itself.

"might as well" right?

really hard to say, kinda up to luck. if your coolant/water are always clean and you use high performance coolant/additives that has water pump conditioner/lube, then perhaps can give it a try on not replacing the water pump.

almost la, too bad.

i also ate damn kao lo, and my tires flinging dirt everywhere... i checked, got minor scratches on the bumper... fenders seem fine... aih ok la lol.

silicone/water based spray wax, can't expect much protection lol (yes i washed/waxed the car few hours prior to speed fest XD)

hmm, does the sidewall TWI actually matter? the triangle shape ones... mines all grinded off >.>

and funnily enough, unlike the c drive 2 (where you'd get some contact depending on how harsh you abuse the tires at corners rofl), the ad08r has this line thingy, where it'll be completely "off limits" from flexing/contact, however the TWI is beyond that "line" :/

man, i'd never knew that there's so much to learn/know in regards on 4 pieces of rubber attached to your car's wheels.

actually right, if the transmission control unit (TCU) isn't completely retarded, it'll prevent you doing retarded shit like downshifting from 6k rpm to blow your pistons right out the block and maybe the cam shafts flying past the fire wall skewering you.

jokes aside, i've pulled to L at 5k rpm, it won't shift until i further reduce the rpm to 3.5-4k or so which will immediately push the rpm to about 6k+.
same for 2 from D.

yes, i pretty much treat my 3 speeder auto as a manual gearbox without a clutch. and i absolutely hate proton SP3 and/or without lubegard. this weekend or when i get a day off i am draining that shit out (the ATF has only been in my at box for around 5k km)

during speedfest the bugger was sluggish as hell i actually had to "pre-time" the thing shifting earlier way before corner entry and as i increase throttle i have to up shift at 5k rpm which it'll happily lag until 7k before finally complete the shift :/
that or i just stick to first gear to reduce power lost from transmission lag.
god damn lubegard is like a f***ing drug lol, once hook just can't live without it anymore.

unless 4AT is dumber than 3AT, id say it'll prevent you from blowing the engine
i found it out on sempah for going too aggressive, fluke, but hey so long it's proven that's all that matters eh?

no smoke here either

wheel balancing no issue, wear is quite uniform although biased to the outer shoulders:
Very interesting wear pattern, should definitely do re mount flipping rotations as well; Notice the tread in tread! http://twitpic.com/d94paa

it's like f***ing magic weih, how they still maintain the tread in tread patterns after the damn thing is worn down ROFL
(a quick guess is some kind of layering cast technology)

direzza ZII?