Alright..interesting finding having fiddled with me Quakewave head light today.
1. Exercise caution when pulling out the back assembly of the head after unscrewing the 2 screw guys.
My yellow LED contact came loose from its solder even with gentle wiggle trying to separate it from the front head cavity after unscrewing
Here's the portion (circled in green) where contact came loose, you can see the leg pin jutted out slightly
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With no solder pen and led at my disposal, had to resort to supergluing the LED at the base to the plastic to ensure it stays fixed (there goes my hope of making him a red-eyed monster

)
It think it will be safer when you remove the back assembly of the head (after unscrewing), push the LED with your finger tip from the front instead of wiggling it out the whole assembly from the back.
2. Apparently the stock batt that came with mine is a CR1025
Think FT got it fixed in the 2nd batch production with the fandom complaining CR1020 is HTF for the 1st run.
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3. Plugged in the CR1220, it works but there's not enough clearance when you want to insert it back to the front head cavity.
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Overestimated the difference of 2mm.
So it's not a valid option if one cant find a CR1020 for the 1st batch or if it came with stock CR1025
So after the above discovery, decided to go get me some CR1025 as spares. As someone mentioned before, watch shops are the best bet.
Especially those old single shop type where the uncle still wears one of those one-eyed magnifying lens
Old uncle told me CR1020/1025 condemned long time ago and ask why still want to find. I just smiled.
He brings out a strip of 4 from his battery stash and said
"Still got, how many?"
"Two please uncle. How much ar?"
"RM20"
"But..but..uncle, you said condemned long time liao?"
"You still want right?"
Paid and exit humbly from the shop...to his credit, these CR1025 are from Japan..thanks uncle
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Hope this info helps those owning the figure.
This post has been edited by ansy: Aug 22 2013, 08:06 PM