Nov 1 2014, 08:38 PM
QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 22 2014, 11:38 AM)
One of the causes of this problem might be the autochoke malfunction.
You can try to check as follows: look from the right side of your car,
under the air filter housing, you will see the autochoke. It is
operated by engine coolant and a fat spring. When cold the piston
is retracted and the spring opens the throttle a little bit. Inside
the piston are air bleeds that supply a richer mixture so the
engine is able to run properly when it is cold.
When hot, the piston protrudes out (as shown by the reference lines
in the picture) making the air bleed change to normal mixture and
closing the throttle back to normal.
Observe the position before starting the old engine, and then after
the engine is hot, and see if there is a difference.
When these function correctly, there is no vibration even when engine
is cold.
Thanks a lot for the detailed explaination on this. I have checked the springs and they appear to operate in good conditions. I have my sifu mechanic clean the carb, change the air filter, tuning the car timing and vola, no more violent vibration.You can try to check as follows: look from the right side of your car,
under the air filter housing, you will see the autochoke. It is
operated by engine coolant and a fat spring. When cold the piston
is retracted and the spring opens the throttle a little bit. Inside
the piston are air bleeds that supply a richer mixture so the
engine is able to run properly when it is cold.
When hot, the piston protrudes out (as shown by the reference lines
in the picture) making the air bleed change to normal mixture and
closing the throttle back to normal.
Observe the position before starting the old engine, and then after
the engine is hot, and see if there is a difference.
When these function correctly, there is no vibration even when engine
is cold.
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 22 2014, 03:18 PM)
aside from what sifu albert has mentioned:
for first item:
- consider using lower viscosity full synthetic engine oils that's API SN certified.
- check your air filter
- consider cleaning your carb DIY with solutions like CRC carb cleaner, or threebond carb cleaners
- check your car idling on hot, if it's under 700-800 rpm, consider raising it just a bit to 800-900.
for second item:
- refer previously posted guides by albert: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=71010415
determine if it's anything to do with clutch.
considering other gears are fine and only reverse/1/2 gears are having issue...
- consider changing gear oil, maybe change it sooner than your usual intervals.
- consider using lower viscosity gear oil so it's better during cold/morning shifts
- i'm on auto iswara so not too sure on manual, but if you said there's a hydraulic pump (i thought it's just straight cable without hydraulic assist) then change the hydraulic fluid (basically just brake fluid) and/or bleed it to prevent air pockets within the system
- considering the odd sound, it may be the clutch pressure plate/bearing is worn/having parts chipped.
- only way to know for sure is opening the clutch/gear box housing and if you're on that path you might as well replace the clutch pad/associated worn items already.
Changed the gear oil, but definitely is a wasted effort now because my car just let out a huge scare to me today. The car was engaging into 2nd gear when a "huhuhuhuhu" sound comes from the engine, car shaking violently but no acceleration happened even if I pressed on the pedal. I am sure the gear was engaged as I checked twice before trying to reengage again quickly (It was running in first gear on a busy road). Brought back to the mechanic and he was quite affirmative that my clutch lining is wearing off. I never pressed the RPM more than 4000 to notice the lost in power. I am quite gentle when come to handle this car, but when he did it, there is obvious loss of power despite the "huhuhuhu" engine sound. for first item:
- consider using lower viscosity full synthetic engine oils that's API SN certified.
- check your air filter
- consider cleaning your carb DIY with solutions like CRC carb cleaner, or threebond carb cleaners
- check your car idling on hot, if it's under 700-800 rpm, consider raising it just a bit to 800-900.
for second item:
- refer previously posted guides by albert: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=71010415
determine if it's anything to do with clutch.
considering other gears are fine and only reverse/1/2 gears are having issue...
- consider changing gear oil, maybe change it sooner than your usual intervals.
- consider using lower viscosity gear oil so it's better during cold/morning shifts
- i'm on auto iswara so not too sure on manual, but if you said there's a hydraulic pump (i thought it's just straight cable without hydraulic assist) then change the hydraulic fluid (basically just brake fluid) and/or bleed it to prevent air pockets within the system
- considering the odd sound, it may be the clutch pressure plate/bearing is worn/having parts chipped.
- only way to know for sure is opening the clutch/gear box housing and if you're on that path you might as well replace the clutch pad/associated worn items already.
Since the car will be doing its first engine overhaul soon (end of november) so my mechanic says leave it first and 1 kali fix everything. The mechanic assured me it can keep going around town but I still got 1 important date to attend 200km to and forth so hopefully it will stand until then.
This post has been edited by chrisstse: Nov 1 2014, 09:02 PM
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