Can align one. Cause the LA are manufactured similiar.
But due to rotate the LA 'head' is always 180 degrees, sometimes it is too much. Therefore, have to adjust single teeth or 1-3 teeth of the tan-gear at the base of the LA.
Need to have dexterity with fingers, else everything pop-out or drop, then have to start align all over again.
But the important point is, both the 20T gear, must be parallel, instead of oppposite facing each another.
I not yet build 42009 ...

Didn't kena tax also headbang ?

ya, tip of finger pain. That's why I keep some tools around:
- philips screwdriver : easier to push axles/pins out, than using another axle. No damage, as long as don't slip.
- thin rubber grip : to pull out bushes, pins, some axles.
- thin-nose plier : if can't with rubber grip, then to pull some bushes/axle-with-stud. Some damage to the external layer, but no choice.
- lego brick remover tool : use to lever / dig out stuff.

8043 I have issue with changing the config (that red stick) from fwd/back movement to digging and vice-versa.
If on rechargeable battery, then 4-6 out of 10 times will stuck (can't engage).
If on full alkaline battery, maybe 1-2 out of 10 times.
Check few times, not sure which part is not align properly. If push with finger, no problem.
In the end, I follow MOC and mod it to use 3 controllers.


Recent busy ... not much time to play. My 8110 still stuck without the tilt-table bed yet.
And not yet get a 9V adapter to cut-cost for battery (and lazy to recharge).

Nowadays I try not to use fingernail. Else, nail broken, chipped like get bitten or hammer

Some things the brick separator can't push, especially if the axle to push is longer than 1 stud, and is stuck tight with thin-beam + thin-bushes.

Try and let us know

I haven't try, but I think it will slip out of the finger easily. Maybe can use it as "grip" or several layer when trying to push/align axles.

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Use test-meter. Get a cheap digital one <RM50. Can check the voltage and mA.
Need to check each individual battery, as well as the full 6x battery pack output.
I think minimum >7.6V to run decently. But for good power, at least 9-10 V

Also, depends on the load factor. 42009 is heavy. The crane is heavy as well. Even heavier load if you try to lift something as light as 200-500g. If it is under tremendous load, the motor will cut-off.

except from *stars* , any other comments ?

I think a full rechargeable pack (6xAA) can last about 2-3 hours of play time for me.
Alkalines, not sure. Maybe 3-3.5 hours.

The smaller 6x AAA for train-sets, will last shorter for Technic PF motors, about 2 hours for rechargeables.
But for train PF, I think it last slightly longer, about 2-3 hours.

If you use non-rechargeables, the depleted batteries are still good enough for other devices like alarm clocks, remote controls (tv, aircond, etc.), and even LED-torchlights. But then, you will have a lot of these batteries, and you can MOC like this:


That is why I opt for re-chargeables, but due to lower voltage, I need to put in 7-8x instead of 6x. Hence, my MOC on battery pack couple of months ago.
Now, I want to use 9V DC adapter, since some of the stuff don't run far, like the excavators.

test-meter can get anywhere, normally I goto Pasar Road, Pudu in KL. Branded one is like Fluke. Yes, those with two cables, normally black and red.

Test meter quite useful, can test many things. AC or DC voltage. from 0.xxx to 1000V, even for cheapo ones.
Can test Amp, Ohm resistance, simple broken cable test, etc. Can use for home electrical also (don't simply plug into the 240V AC if don't know what you want to test )

When motor run slow, I just recharge the whole 6-8x lots of batteries. Quite conclusive on low-batt most of the time.
Very rare I check it often. But sometimes useful to isolate out a single faulty/flat battery, as it can cause the entire battery pack problem.

I haven't build 42009, but looking at your pic, the red circle gear seems misplaced (or by other beams/axles in wrong holes/location ?)

Why I say so, generally, that tan-colour 12T gear should not have free-space at the back of it. Also, it should not slide on its axle. It will rotate properly in place, using the grey-colour 20T gear.

My suggestion, recheck the entire build around 5-10 studs/holes of the tan gear. I suspect some beams/axle at wrong place.

LOL ... I don't have Fluke either been dreaming of owning one, but over-kill. I'm using cheapo China-brand digital test-meter <RM50 only As long can give me some readings, not for commercial use, is ok already.

Nice, will check out the charger. Bulk-CS anyone ?

You did the homework for him
As I suspected in my earlier reply to him.

I used GP 2500/2700 mAh before also. Yes, it is good and longer lasting after a full charge. The only disadvantage:
If you do not use the battery for 1 month, you need to do full charge of 6-8 hours (at least that long with my GP charger for 4x AA). By that time, no mood/time to play Lego already

That's why I'm into Sanyo Eneloop now, but max is about 2000-2200 mAh only for similiar AA battery. Good enough for me.

Generally, Technic and Mindstorm are the most technical Lego sets, hence will take longer time. Even compared to Modular/Creator series.

Except maybe 10179

This is one of the big question in my mind previously before buying Eneloop, since I have GP charger

Indeed he dived to the top 10 deepest in technicality.
Yes, everytime put an axle with gears, bushes, must test rotate the axle and it should spin quite freely without friction. Then have to adjust by 0.1-0.2mm but not too much.
One way is to count the empty holes from left-to-right and right-to-left to confirm the correct position.

Yes, axle are always straight. If curve/bend, they will use tube or flexible hose.


If you have past experience on Technic already, I suggest either 9398 or 8110 (older set) for big sets.
42009 is new and will be around for another 2 years for you to save money.

Else, can start with smaller/medium sets like 4200x series (42000, 42004, 42006, 42007, ...)