Yup! Even better looking now! Looks faster and ganas! People sure give way! Drive neo..no one cares to give way wan.. because too slow

Currently driving Vios..

So its acceptable FC at 7.0? Urs how much?

Cannot go for vios la.. my neo just came out ony.. jut reach 1000km...:-P

My fren got 5.6L/100km. Me jelly. If u guys hav ny tips n trick will be very much appreciated.

P/s : just change my air filter to works drop in. Hope can improve the fc somehow.

Highway - yes..can get 5.xxL/100km

My mix 50-50 highway and city..about 7-8.x L/100km

IT WORKS! kcng

Hohohoh... used to drive iswara 1.3 carb can get 70/80km per rm20 (sumtime feels like more). Now cannot tahan de...adoi.

You should've taken Vios..T summore...high resale value..compare to Proton

My friend said that Honda City's FC is better than Vios.
LOL. True ahh?

Dunno..either way..both City and Vios is better than Neo

Mine 7.8L/ 100km
I also using Works drop in air filter.
(the sales person keep asking me to buy K&N, but I don't want.) Hahaha...

True also la. Hahaha.
Neo is a hardcore petrol drinker, just push the pedal down and enjoy the handling. *peace*

Ya lor.. used to drove my mum's honda city i-vtec, save fuel when u want them and power when u need them..

Anyhow,still a proud owner of a satria neo. Likey the handling. Just wish there's a way to lower the FC,then it would be great ride coz idun reli go all time crazy pedal to metal. Juz sumtime when i need to rush. Plus satria neo is more hensem than vios..:-P

I used to replace to the old burnt stock bulbs to those SMD/LED type of bulbs,



guess what,

I got Engine Check Light light ups once brake apply and the ECL forever stay on until engine turn off...

eventually replaced the whole third brake top mount module since I can't get stock bulbs.

Yea, neo in handsome than old vios.
But new vios is handsome and looks sporty too ehh... Hahaha...

Full tank for me of Ron95 @ 38~40L and I'm able to travel at least 400~430 km..good enough for me

definetly manual bro.. =(

vios.. hmm sounds legit. my coursemate juz got one, RM10 ron95 for 80km city driving..

sigh....

eh, i use LED on my neo also...
no engine check light leh...

whats your error code?

I also feel weird...

P0703
Brake Light Switch Not Plausible



stupid go and change brake switch end up sama juga...

maybe Neo and Gen2 tak sama ?

I thought to use the pnp smd also, but think its not bright enough.
The star led got at clearance sale so i think why not just shove that led in...and its super bright...

aiks?

my sis BLM has the same error code...
change brake switch, settle wor...


u change back normal bulb settle ar?

Got a Neo CPS Auto with BOT here so I will answer a few of your questions based on what I have experienced so far. Yeah, I know people will say Auto is no good and etc etc. I agree up to a level but please bear in mind, my Neo is a work in progress, which means it will be upgraded as I use it in the future.

1) Don't know about that, so I'll leave that to manual owners to answer.

2) Standard Auto is of course, underpowered compared to manual. I have been in my friends' Neo CPS manual. The manual version does accelerate a bit better.

3) I believe CPS engine is designed to be revved high. It will become much more alive after 4400rpm. Changing your exhaust will make your Neo sound nastier

4) I started with small upgrades such as those listed and then I decided to go BOT after much advise. I did it in KK. Total damage is around rm9k. I didn't change anything inside the engine including the piston because I specifically ask the mechanic to boost low. My boost is just at 0.4bar but that's enough for my usage. My aim is to have higher torque, not top speed because I travel a lot going up and down the Crocker range roads. The stock CPS is really useless going up the mountains, I tell you. Always got tapau'ed by a lot of bigger cars and 4WDs. After BOT, well the situation is reversed

These are some of the upgrades done for the BOT:

Turbo header Campro CPS 4x1
Stainless steel piping kit with hose and clamp
Apexi delta fin intercooler HYBRID
Turbo rhf4 ball bearing
HKS SSQV 4 blowoff valve
Turbosmart wastegate 38mm
Original K&N air filter 3 inch
Hayden USA trasnmisssion oil cooler
Nozzle 550cc -injector change
Works Fuel regulator stage 1 w/ oil meter
Works Fuel Rail 10mm
E-MANAGE system w/ install
Velocity Intake CAMPRO
HKS Fully Synthetic Racing Oil
HKS oil filter Racing
Sard Thermal Wrap with Cable tie
Exhaust Change Steel
Piping throttle adjustment
Fuel rail adjustment
Brided hose inlet turbo
Fiiting intake copper
Hose elbow 2"-2.5"
OBD check at GREEDSPEED
Oil cooler hose samco
Sensor exhaust and Map change
Proton engine check and clear code
Gearbox flush and change oil 6 litre
Downpipe wastegate

The mechanic did indeed have some troubles with the e-manage but somehow he solved the problem. My 2nd time tuning (at another performance garage in KK, sent by the mechanic) has made the car much more powerful and smoother gear change plus better FC (before tuning: 300km full tank. After tuning: 350km+ full tank).

5) Change the engine if you think it's worth it. Some people want me to change the engine instead of doing BOT. This is just an experiment for me so, I just use the CPS engine until it dies then I'll change to something else. Last time I dyno, the car produces 176whp, so I think that's alright. The thing is, I have done more than 25,000km after BOT and it doesn't give me any major problem at all. This car has been to Kuching twice from Sabah and it's gone almost every week up and down the Crocker range when I go to KK from Tenom. I love it. You will be surprised but the engine is reliable and send to service when it's time to. I guess I can attribute it to the mechanic. If there's any problem, I will ask my mechanic first.

6) Invest in stabilizer bars. They are not that expensive and it's worth it. Got a few of them in front, at the back and inside the fender (that triangle thingy?) with 205/50/16 Yokohama tyres. Man, that car can take corners at high speed and without having any tail wiggling. Correct me if I'm wrong, smaller rims means they are lighter, so better acceleration. The main reason I don't go for 17" is because of the rough roads in Sabah here. I think Sarawak is much worse.

That's my opinion. Appreciate any feedback from the sifus here. Selamat hari raya aidilfitri