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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX CLUB V46, thread orang gaji ciput

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Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 12:33 AM

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QUOTE(THE CLASS OF 13 @ Jun 30 2013, 12:15 AM)
thanks bro..now am learning on step 2..any tips on claying? ipa alcohol right?
but for polishing i cant do it for now..as it use machines right?
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IPA = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol

can polish (and even compound) without machine smile.gif
just slower/less efficient
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 12:33 AM

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QUOTE(adlans @ Jun 30 2013, 12:18 AM)
where can i get IPA?
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https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2717191/+1400
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 12:38 AM

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QUOTE(ruby1288 @ Jun 30 2013, 12:23 AM)
if you have coating then its different story. .
Like mine, I had Permanon coating which is good
fresh watermarks can be removed with (non abrasive type) wax with some effort. .
But figured out that IPA will be easier. .
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if your coating is good, you shouldn't have to worry about water marks.

hell, i DON'T have coating, only on TW cheapo wax, as per my previous posting https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=61384772

you may risk removing your permanon with IPA though whistling.gif
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Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 02:20 AM

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QUOTE(THE CLASS OF 13 @ Jun 30 2013, 02:01 AM)
thanks for the tips bro..
u provide detailing service eh? hehe
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you're welcome smile.gif
i newbie DIY hobby only laugh.gif

but if i do get jobless/thinking of resigning, i got many other jobs such as this that i can look forward too tongue.gif
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(ThunderGod_Cid @ Jun 30 2013, 11:57 AM)
I never told him I sell additives and flush for a living though
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brows.gif brows.gif brows.gif
end up f*** him upside down? lol!
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 02:56 PM

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QUOTE(fghvbn @ Jun 30 2013, 01:47 PM)
how to diy?
any recommendation?

how much does it cost normally ?
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find howiechoo and pay money settle la. LOL
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 30 2013, 02:55 PM)
I think more to block the direct route into the intake so large debris cannot enter (dust will still enter, but not leaves or pebbles)  hmm.gif

jz my 2 kupang  sweat.gif

EDIT: we're talking about this one right??
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_(HVAC)
actually no, it's call wind (ro air) ducting. my car is full of it, if tt next time can show you guys lol

to add in, if that's proton's idea of air ducting, that's very damn piss poor ROFL

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jun 30 2013, 03:29 PM
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 30 2013, 03:43 PM)
I read the article....but can't figure out how that rubber strip fit into the whole ducting thing  rclxub.gif
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if they seal the sides of the intake properly, it would effectively prevent heat from the engine bay/radiators to enter the intake.

so, DIY homework: seal the sides yourself wink.gif
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 30 2013, 04:38 PM)
Ooohh....judging from the position of the rubber strip, I don't think they were addressing the heat issue  sweat.gif

Curiously, other cars with intake opening pointing direct towards the front right underneath the bonnet, not all of them have that strip. Inspira, for example:

Maybe Saga's gap between the bonnet and the grille is too large?

Exora CFE. I think this is what you meant? there is a layer of insulflex-like material covering the intake opening.

Myvi's pointed sideways  hmm.gif  hmm.gif Probably a good idea for a stock CAI

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yeap the gap could be the issue, and notice inspira's intake everywhere else is covered/"sealed"

and yes the exora CFE intake is what i mentioned.

and yes my stock iswara intake is from the side, or rather, plugged straight into the fender, so it isn't having direct air flow, just from the minor space inside the fender (which isn't really good btw but it works for a low 60 horsie engine biggrin.gif )
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 30 2013, 04:48 PM)
Why no convert to gugujiao?  brows.gif  brows.gif  wub.gif
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my engine bay too hot tongue.gif
would be a dumb idea to do so
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 05:02 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Jun 30 2013, 04:57 PM)
I noticed when our car radiator fan is spinning while the car is stationary, the hot air is actually reflected inside the engine bay and come out from the gap between the bonnet and grille. I think if we probably seal the intake, then performance should improve abit during traffic jam. unsure.gif
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that is correct smile.gif

my car's hot hair typically flows underneath of the engine/side of bonnet, which is dammmnnn hot XD
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 30 2013, 05:04 PM)
Heat shield la dey  unsure.gif
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right smack in the middle seal what? LOL

best is still to do a proper CAI even if you wanna do an open pod and heatshield that particular location
Quazacolt
post Jun 30 2013, 05:14 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 30 2013, 05:07 PM)
gugujiao with oversize kondom  shocking.gif
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icon_idea.gif brows.gif
Quazacolt
post Jul 2 2013, 12:16 AM

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QUOTE(Noobdao @ Jul 1 2013, 10:52 AM)
I know....easier for me to get warranty if my engine got problem...they wont said that use ur own engine oil....

that power steering is used 2x....bcoz they wan clean the power steering bottle...zzz....i saw and quite waste actually....maybe i decide dun wan go there anymore.....
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actually flushing/keeping power steering lube is good. lubes only cost few 10's while an entire power steering failure can easily dent you 4 digits smile.gif

that said, rm200 for shit full synthetic is just a waste. cheaper price elsewhere aside, there's many semi synthetics in the rm110-130 range that can easily beat shitty shell lol
Quazacolt
post Jul 2 2013, 12:26 AM

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lol those mainstream EO especially mineral, i 3-4k km ady DYING to drain them out, and people mentioning that they can last longer than 5k? no thanks. out of my engine they go. when the engine can't rev happy, that means the oil is shit and does not belong in my engines. (iswara/sentra)
Quazacolt
post Jul 2 2013, 12:29 AM

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QUOTE(garybenjamin @ Jul 1 2013, 03:59 PM)
That so called recommended serbis according to theeir schedule hahahahah doh.gif
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spirited driving you'd want to service those fluids even sooner, more so if you're on DOT 5.1 as it doesn't withstand hygroscopic as well as regular DOT 4 despite it having much higher temperature resistance.

for me, when brakes doesn't feel snappy, immediately bleed/top up as necessary. brake fluid starting to go murky anything worse than clear teh o color, immediately full drain and re-bleed/flush.
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post Jul 2 2013, 12:32 AM

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QUOTE(Noobdao @ Jul 1 2013, 06:31 PM)
i servis at SC la....the power steering conditioner is pwoer steering oil la....and i dunno anything...haha....just I think I wan change SC liao...quite expensive...brake fluid need to change because my brake fluid is dark....and contaminated....
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power steering you can schedule yourself between 40-100k km, or 1-3 years, or when the PS start to feel draggy.
if it doesn't meet the mentioned criteria, just reject lo

also if brake fluid is dark, full flush is highly recommended smile.gif
Quazacolt
post Jul 2 2013, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jul 2 2013, 04:57 PM)
Is the steering smaller than stock?  oooohhhh I see ralliart gearknob  brows.gif All you need now are chrome pedals  nod.gif
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lol mine normal alu pedal je, bought together with the momo steering during my visit at speedzone collecting my H&R springs XD

got DRL to highlight/showcase them, but pity the passenger side LOL
Quazacolt
post Jul 2 2013, 05:45 PM

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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Jul 2 2013, 05:31 PM)
Chrome pedal ah?? err....sorry I don't like those metal, chrome pedals  blush.gif . Not grippy one if your shoes are wet. Not safe. but my brake pedal the rubber on the lower right edge is wearing off already can see the metal base...
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actually i still feel that they are grippy due to the surface design. only problem is during wet, you can hear squeaks from your shoes rubbing the metal surface sweat.gif

still prefer these metal type as it can provide me much better road/braking feedback, rubber ones worthless when it comes to feedback lol
Quazacolt
post Jul 2 2013, 08:36 PM

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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Jul 2 2013, 06:51 PM)
Qua, If depends on the shoes you wearing, if those racing PUMA shoes then its ok because the shoes base is rubber but if the shoes base if not rubber one hor...very jialat last time I wear a Asadi slipper to drive a car with metal pedal, the pedal got those small rubber stud but it was raining heavily so my feet was wet and got on the car press clutch for 1st gear shit my slipper slip....the car jolted forward and engine died....it was at a shopping mall outdoor car park...damn paiseh the passerby looking at me like "drive Evo don't know how to shift gear ah?"

Sometimes I wear those safety shoes if the base seems like not grippy on metal pedal...don't know la maybe just me...I prefer those metal pedal the whole center piece is friction or grippy part one like those Mugen one...those hole type or stud type I not prefer.


You want me to quote you the price 10 years back ah? this MOMO Race very old already one. Bought new in 2003. I don't know how much now MOMO steering is priced at. Plus this model now discontinued. You can search for MOMO steering in acc shop in KL or tuning shop around Sunway...
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i don't have racing shoes also, wearing normal work shoes, nike running shoes (bottom damn thick) and even asadi slippers (high 5 same slipper brand LOL!)

dunno so far never slipped, but i drive auto la, 1 less pedal chance to slip lol
mine doesn't have studs though, not exactly the type with many holes too, its ori sparco punya, got some grooves/design that can provide some grip.


QUOTE(Vinz lee @ Jul 2 2013, 06:00 PM)
how mch ur momo cost ? i finding one too. any lubang? notworthy.gif
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got mine for rm480, old stock (condition don't look too good ady, the leather dried/deteriorated a bit lolz) so extra discount (ori price was around 600-700 iinm)

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