Errr....itu radio got warranty meh......jeez...if got, should have claim earlier coz the disc tray siao siao wan since a year ago..but this time really motor jam big time..

Which fuse, where it is located.., another 1.5 hours to go....don't know battery kong liao or not in the basement.

To disconnect, have to open the dashboard, no kachang at my workplace lar...also don't know how to open anyway..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 27 2013, 10:39 AM

Have try restart car and waited at 2 hours interval earlier, motor still runs.

So hit 12pm, packed up, log out from office, went to basement, enter car, its hot due to non-stop radio tray's motor running for 4.5 hours, luckily can still start car..... ..... ..........the motor stop, the moment I start car. CD started playing....problem solved.....at least until it re-occur again.

Postpone RM400 ~ RM 800 HU/Remote change, told my wife...again same response, "you see, buy proton some more lar"....well......

No, the motor pushing the CD out is not stopping but when it stop suddenly, I pushed a CD in, it work as usual, for now.

Normally there are 2 source of leaking from them. The rubber surrounding the door loose or damage liao OR most likely the water proof plastic sheet inside the door got holes or not seal properly.

I would suggest to dismantle the door panel and change or reseal the plastic sheet that prevent water from seeping in thru the door ala windows gaps as a first measure to check if water comes from there.

Got click one meh!!!! Mine tak da click one....I turn hard hard liao. ...if harder, afraid something might break.

Is rock oil a brand coz all the time I tot the rock oil u guys mentioned was mineral lube...

When new also like that liao. I tot PE special, not like other cars, since turn supertight also no click. Probably a QC issue and mine just does not have the click..

No noise, just tighten until I cannot go further. Its been like for 2 years liao.

If use stock filter and change every 10-15K like me, I don't think I need TB cleaning that soon. Probably when reach 60-80K.....maybe.

Zeng did. Used the TRUE FS Amsoil, forgot its either PAO or ester. However his feedback is not so good. Not suited to his PE. Not sure abt others.

PETRONAS XP3 ATF. On my last week's 41K change, they change it back to Proton SP3 coz tarak stock for XP3. Gear change is DEFINITELY more noticeable after that. Will refill back XP3 on 60K mileage.

Err....actually I'm over 40K mileage, I don't think I need to service tb unless you used a drop in or open pod filter. My Honda city with stock filter did it once at 30+k mileage due to some problem. Its 100+k now, over 70K running very well without servicing tb. If you really keen on it, I would say go for it, let say every 40K mileage or so will do.

The price to pay for drop in is having to clean tb every now and then. For me, its not worth the miniscule torque increment and the price.....and the work to clean filter myself every 5K. Not only that, it increase the contaminant in your engine oil much faster. So for those that use FS for 10K, the silicon (dirt/sand/ext oil) level in your lube adds up over higher mileage usage. For 5K change, it makes not so much difference on lube.

You do save on buying stock filter every 10-15K but as the tb get dirtier, it should negate all the benefits of drop in..thus by the time you need to clean tb, you've unknowingly lost a good amt of performance overtime.

I rather just spend RM16 and change a new stock filter every 10K~15K, much cleaner engine and oil, no need spend energy to clean (lazy, no need maintenance) and retained consistent performance over time. PE filter is very cheap compared with filters like Honda that stock original costing RM55+ to RM70+....so its not an issue to change every 10~15K.

More over, the extra flow of air is much more beneficial if you run high speed most of time, not so much on normal driving.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 4 2013, 08:52 AM

Aiyo, normally only mentioned dirty but not where it got dirty nor how the performance is affected. I now add on info only. Also new ppl might not see my old posts coz our posts "passed by" very fast, unlike those car forums where technical info stays permanent in their section. So have to keep repeating posts.....you do notice now and then ppl keep asking the same questions...so I posts the same answer in different format.

Also very free.....nothing much to do.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 4 2013, 09:11 AM

Maintain 10W40 until your car start makan minyak hitam. If engine oil keep decreasing, check if its engine oil leaking first, if engine no problem, then it might be time to change to even heavier weight. However at 40 weight, I don't see any problem to go over 200k mileage on that.

No need simply change weight coz ppl say old car must use heavier weight, only change if got problem.

1.6 producing only 109 hp.....add that to our crappy auto gear box and 1.2 tons weight...probably only 70+hp reached us vs 90+ hp that manual pe enjoyed. Even city 1.5cc also got 122hp liao, so don't compare cc here.

Keep repeating myself, for auto PE, installing LCP is a must for those complaining slow pickup. Get one, preferably Mytheo LCP at abt RM550. The price is worth it for the very noticeable improvement in faster gear change and massive pickup improvement at lower end that is the major weakness of auto PE.

For air-cond not cold, make sure the led light ON the air-cond knob (the top knob) is on. Last time, I accidentally off it, allowing outside air in and keep complaining how come air-cond not cold. If everything is in order and ir still not cold, you might have a fake sanden air-cond

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 5 2013, 09:11 AM

Mine is sanden. Just serviced my air-cond last week.

No lar, the one GOOD THING that strike my mind on Proton is the handling at the price range, unmatched. So proton cars has TWO GOOD THINGS........ONLY.

I really don't see any improvement using denso power. As a matter of fact, my car initial starting takes slightly longer, now back to normal but no see improvement.

Gear change is MUCH more noticeable after 41K service, probably blame it on the newly refilled Proton SP3 instead of XP3 that I've used earlier.

When doing sudden deep acceleration before servicing, it usually just zoom upwards with gear change barely noticeable, now it feels like it downshift to gain power and then only zoom upwards. Is it really becoz of SP3 ATF, not so sure for now?

I tot dares is driving a ford fiesta now..