I'm going to change my spark plug tomorrow to denso power it20 on 40K service.

Got mine from Zen ages over 1 year and half ago. However just suddenly cross my mind if the denso I have is ori or not coz just found out spark plug also got imitation (never realise that earlier).

Since Zen mentioned in his usage, the plug gap if quite huge at 30K mileage while this plug has a life span of 30K miles = 48K kilo mileage. Give and take at 30K kilo mileage, it should not have such massive gap (I supposed since got no exp in plug).

Xan plug bought that farm at near 50K, it might degrade but kaput at 50K!!!! (I assume they might have the same source, tell me if I'm wrong).

I forgot how my box looks like, have to go back and check. What worries me is I can't remember if the IT20 model is printed or stick on. My memory vaguely remember stick on...and not sure it the plugs is not even in individual box. Really have to check tonite since left it there for over a year. If sticker stick on and plug is not in individual mini boxes inside the main box, is it fake?

Zen, can you remember (if you manage to read this in time)? Can confirm your source is really ori?

ps. found the denso website indicating some difference on the actual plug. Haiz have to check mine tonite.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 18 2013, 10:47 AM

Oh..Xan mentioned on of his power plug kaput at abt 50K, totally spoilt causing power loss in the car. Since the lifespan of denso power is 30K miles = abt 48K kilo, it should degrade to the stage of kaput (I assume coz no exp in plugs).

I am also assuming he might also get his plug at the same source as zen since it was around that time zen also bulking the plugs. Zen's working fine until he check at 30K discovering gap getting quite big at 30K mileage (it should be able to last without massive degraded performance before 40K).

Since we know fake won't last long due to usage of inferior material and can seriously damage the engine, I wonder whether to use or not. Really looking forward to using them since my foc stock plugs replacement at 20k.

That means if mine is not in individual box, then I should consider forgoing the plugs. If they are in individual boxes, still have to check sticker of model or is it printed. Then also have to check the plugs printed quality and metal quality based on the pics in denso website. If one of them is not in order, grrr....have to use back stock plug tomorrow.

Hopefully it checked out when I go back check tonite.

Oh.....ok. Maybe I worry for nothing. Got to get out of that stupid habit. Still have to check plugs if in mini boxes and also the marking quality on the plugs itself.

Haha.....that give me some relieve liao since I cannot remember but somehow have vaguely looking at the plugs without remember taking out from mini boxes.

You also using Zen's bulk?

Comes to think abt it, I supposed everyone here using Zen's bulk are still in good order, so I suppose I'm really worrying for nothing.

IT IS BECOZ of ngeo88 thread I start worrying, if not I did not even know plugs got fake until now. Yeah...I'm ignorant on that point.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 18 2013, 11:12 AM

Ok....since everyone are using it and still fine.....I will go with the flow

I will check the plug at 30K, if still good, will drag till 40K at most. At least that's what the response of Denso Japan to one of the guys who actually asked them.

I don't like to use things to maximum limit coz by then the performance would have degraded until no fun liao not to mentioned possible damaging thus my philosophy on early change for lube even tho its a bit wasteful. However if financial not good, that's another story lor...squeeze till every last drop..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 18 2013, 03:23 PM

No pressure lar, just a doubt/question raised coz just found out even plug also got fake like lube. Shocked coz I did not realise fake exist for plugs.

I know Zen won't con us lar coz he also using himself but he can get con also...

Anyway with so many using without issue, no issue for me liao..

For those that changed their battery to DIN 55. Can they fit into our existing battery seating? Any issue?

Thanks everyone for replying.

Ordered a Panalite DIN55 battery yesterday coz my mech's does not have DIN45 batteries of the few brands he carried. Loved Panalite batteries that seems to be quite lasting on my Cities. At the minimum of 2 years to 3 years usually.

Just serviced 41K major service yesterday. Got my iridium plugs in. The SC USED SP3 for ATF (they used to be using the newer XP3), their supplier supplied the SC with SP3 this time when they ordered atf. If only I've known, I would have bought it elsewhere but the BIG PETRONAS station next door pun takda ATF for proton.

I also asked to eliminate the quek quek steering cover sound beside the robotic swirling sound that THE clock spring warranty item are supposed to solved at my final warranty change.

Turned out changing clock spring DOES not solved the problem. The Proton tech misdiagnosed it earlier coz even with clock spring taken out, the robotic whirling sound still there when steering is turn. Tech mentioned have to pumped grease into the steering shaft. A quick check with my usual mechanic suggest that it might be steering pump or something, usually nothing to worry abt but laughed at suggestion of grease pumped in coz only lorries need that, never heard of car doing that.

The quek quek sound finally solved as the proton mech remove the cover and reinstall quite a number of time until the quek disappear, quiet and very happy with it.

.......then later in the evening, rattling appear in the steering cover. This is worse coz rattling appear with any heavier engine idle or harsher road vibration while the earlier solved quek noise at least only appear when steering is turn....

So temporary forced tucked a piece of visible paper in between the steering cover to minimize rattling occurring. Feel like banging my head on the steering......malas want to go back again to refix the cover. Maybe when I go back at 60K mileage for semi major service.

On other note, I going to service my air-cond for first time (at 41K mileage) and called my usual car air-cond guy.

He mentioned servicing air cond needs to removed parts of dashboard....I tot removing the glove compartment inside the car is sufficient, have to tear out other dashboard parts meh?

The small SC at Bukit Tinggi, Klang. Used to be at CoSE but gave them up for normal servicing last time. Too slow.

This SC can negotiate a bit wan on the work load but it really depends also. Coz last time I service there and want to claim warranty, they asked me to come back another day for warranty claim, no time (even tho I already book that time and mentioned warranty claim earlier). Best to do that in morning so no excuse for no time (they want to go back on time)...

Stay with stock suspension. Still got body roll but minimal. One of the best of its class for stock setup. Don't compare it with iswara, the suspension is totally different class. (I used to own iswara too).

Rattling, all cars also got, even Toyota Alphard cannot escape it. My H-line rattles on the driver side coin rack. Now steering (inside) pulak rattles due to tech open up b4.

The material difference between H-Line and other lines are not mentioned officially anywhere. You masuk sit in both cars, then you notice the drastic difference. Dashboard not sure (softer, etc....). Leather steering makes a very different feel for handling, increased sound insulation on side doors and roof (not mentioned in proton sites, NVH is definitely a notch better than other line). Leather material on side door instead of those mushy cloth in other lines. All these materials adds up to make a much higher grade feel vs other lines.

Also a MAJOR unmentioned (officially) difference between H-Line and others....the braking system that uses 1.6 gen2 brake pump that are MEANT for PE. Other line uses the cheaper 1.3 saga type pump that does not provide sufficient braking power thus if a PE guy complain abt its brake totally sucked, chances are they're not using H-line.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 21 2013, 02:22 PM

Done 41K major service, new air filter, Caltex semi, stupid SP3 atf for gear and steering, dot 4 brake oil and Denso Power plugs that totalled RM592. Added a new RM280 DIN 55 Panalite battery and serviced air-cond (changed something that looks like a metal bottle...and replaced a new original timing belt that totalled RM330. Cost me over RM1200 over the weekend and now drinking plain water for lunch today.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 24 2013, 11:48 AM

Belt has some miniscule cracks liao. Tot it might be the after affect of LCP but the air-cond tech sifu (my long term air-cond man) mentioned his own 4 year old SE Persona also cracked at over 30K mileage (mine is 41K), so its normal and should have nothing to do with LCP.

I still have wonder whether our LCP does contribute to earlier "retirement" of the belt.

Either way, if LCP does contribute to this, I still think its worth it even if paying near a hundred buck for the belt (maybe higher price coz he stock very few of it and its original). If I'm to take out LCP, I don't think I can live anymore with the tak boleh jalan punya auto....that means either I drive with LCP or I sell the car...

So from now own, I will check very 30-40K mileage or so...and change if necessary.

Any FS is overkill but if you want to change at 10K mileage, FS is the only EO to go for. FS does not really increase power but smoothen acceleration and decrease engine vibration / noise, not to mentioned cleaner engine especially for long term usage. However that is assuming you're not using full 10K mileage, coz 5K semi EO change is cleaner than 10K FS EO change.

It's not too light if you retain 5W40 weight. It has better lubrication than other EO. My City have a 5K mileage for 6 months and I used FS for that due to the above mentioned benefit. Overkill for power but not for the increase comfort. Cannot afford it for PE coz I reach 5K in abt 2-2.5 months time, so forced to use semi for that.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 26 2013, 10:24 AM

Actually I don't find mineral very much difference from semi. Semi only added probably 10%-20% synthetic based lube and the grade of the based mineral oil used should still be the same grade. Thus if your car is doing fine using mineral, go with it, its abt 1/3 cheaper than semi. If you've been using semi for sometimes, maybe downgrading to mineral will have more noticeable effect like more vibration etc but otherwise, only miniscule improvement. Its more important to choose a good mineral lube than use a lousy semi.

Using FS is a totally different story as its based mineral stock is highly refined lube that is different grade from mineral and semi. Thus much less contaminant in original lube.

I doubt Proton will make XTR1 and magcrap compulsory. SC is bluffing as XTR and magcrap WILL ALWAYS be optional item as it is NOT a basic need of the car like lube, etc. Do not, officially, almost all established lube company DISCOURAGE usage of addictive such as XTR as it might interfere with lube existing addictive thus compulsory is really a mute point to argue.

Call We-Care straightaway if they INSIST next time and let SC speak with them directly.

Niama, really sui, one thing settle, another thing come....


Since 7.30am, my radio CD tray exit motor jam and won't stop running even after switch off engine. Super hot now, don't know can tahan until 12pm (half day leave) before my new DIN 55 battery kong out.

Got to spend a few more hundred for a new HU unit. The remote control to steering cannot be reuse until I install another remote box that might cost be RM300~400 hundred (my accs shop no other option). I love using the steering remote button to control the HU but a remote that cost almost as much as HU....haiz....