On morning, reverse your car and check whether the floor or ground got fuel stain or not. If not, then it is normal. Sometimes the fuel tank indicator does not reflect the real fuel left as they go thru some strange proton algorithm that sort of predict your future usage based on what is left in your tank. Thus if you tekan kuat kuat for a while, indicator will drop super fast, then when you start driving economically after that, you will notice the indicator goes back up again.

Thus you might drive economically until you stop your car, indicator might still be high up based on your driving. After stopping for a while and restart, the indicator might goes down to reflect you actual fuel left.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 2 2013, 08:48 AM

Yep, its strange, but that's the way I read it over 2 years driving it. Usually best time to read it is starting car after stopping a short while. Other cars like Honda City also only read accurately after restart car after a while but its needle DOES NOT jump up and down depending on our sudden driving style change like what ours did.

If you notice, that mode telling you how many km left.....it linked directly to that needle, oh, it won't increase the km left higher, but if drive economically over highway, at times, it will stay at the same mileage left even after 2-5km drive. You will get used to it and later know how to adjust your driving and timing to estimate mileage or fuel left.

As for fuel leak, if you really got fuel leak, even on slope, the leaked stain will still be there especially on tarmac.

Just fill till the sensor clicks. It depends on the that pump sensor, some sensor not really full also click. So when I found a station with a pump sensor that click when its really full, I usually goes back to the same pump.

If you want calculate full tank, just pump till sensor click. Even if not truly full, still ok. Do full pump next few drives and average all of them out. You will get the most accurate calc that way. Fuelly site also does it that way to get the average full tank.

Gua every 4 days for full tank from almost empty. 5 days if hit weekend.

Nowadays, hitting 5K mileage in 2.5 months. Shift house next year, petrol up, everything sure up....

I think I'm going to go against my philosophy on 5K mileage change....gonna drag to at 5.5 to 6K. Money not enuf. Dragging 10K FS for this older tech camtakpro engine is just too much tho besides I also has no faith in stock filter can filter optimum at that mileage.

Still have to jaga car engine cleanliness and performance for very long term coz I realize after deducting my house loan and future cost increase (looking at how govt goes, gst coming still), gua tak da money change car liao. This car have to last me 20 years.....

Ceratec does not help all parts mah.....

You try first, if you engine don't kaput after soaping and goes full performance, I follow your step also..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 3 2013, 09:47 AM

Don't judge engine oil by the kopi-o color. If it is still very watery (liquid) rather than slightly sludgy (a bit thicker than usual), its fine if its still under 5K. Can use till 5K. Of course changing earlier is better but its a waste of money as most of the lubricant properties are still strong unless you're using a celup brand or a fake one.

added : fuber got to it first...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 3 2013, 02:11 PM

Wah!!!! How come campro engine suddenly become more advance than all other foreign manufacturers. None of them dare use semi for 10K since its based stock is still the less refined grade 2 mineral lube. Semi lube addictive will still wear out way before 10K mileage.

Campro must have some hidden advance filteration system there... oh wait....I think Cose is trying to "hint" you to kaput this engine in a couple of years then go buy the new supreme S...

Front switch to rear on same side. The rear cross to front from rear left to right front and rear right to front left. That is the usual optimum switch.

However if you want to switch only on same side also ok but balance wear rate on tyres might not be as optimum as above switch. Nothing to stop us from doing that. I myself switch on same side coz one of my tyres when switch to opposite direction will swerve left (defect, etc). No choice on that. Working so far.

If you're using uni-directional tyre, the only option is switch front to rear on same side.

As for brake pad and disc, change only when either is worn out, you will know when its time. There is no given time frame to change as it depends on where you frequently drive (downhill vs highway vs city), your driving style (ah pek vs speed demon), distance etc.

Some change in 1 year, some change in 3 years even with same mileage. Eg. frequently drive downhill roads vs frequent highway drive => last 1 year vs last 3 years...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 4 2013, 09:52 AM

Sometime SC service schedule pakai hantam one. Mine last time printed 10K next service but SC wrote on book and tell me 5K.

Semi are never meant for 10K mileage. Its base lube are mostly of the same grade as mineral with added synthetic content and addictive. FS is another story all together. I doubt any protection will be left after 7K max for both mineral and semi. The base lube contaminant is slightly reduce from mineral due to its added syn...but most semi only have 10-15% syn content. Standard FS base stock is refine grade 3 lube. Most of contaminant has already been filtered out. True FS got zero contaminant and its natural property is different from the rest.

Even before 7K, addictives might be running thin or out. That's why when most semi runs near 7K, its performance degraded.

IMO, it will always be better to change BEFORE it even runs thin unless you have massive budget constraint and not concern/or can't help with long term performance (most do sell their car before 5 years). When performance degraded, that means damage (may be very miniscule and no short term concern), has already start occurring. I practice changing it BEFORE it degraded to obtain long term optimum performance of engine (if no bad luck thingy happens).

Now with my budget constraint...may extend to 5.5-6K....at most.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 5 2013, 08:36 AM

Before you think further, keep to 16" rim upgrade. Forget abt 17". With our underpowered engine, using 17" will greatly massively sacrifice your fc, pickup ,etc to the point of unbalance performance vs looks. Of course, it would not matter if you use those ultra expensive light weight ones but with our Malaysia potholes, makes its very durable as well.

Most of those who upgraded to 17" has "re-upgrade" to 16" for balance of performance and looks. That would be the better option.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 5 2013, 11:10 AM

Unless you always charge devices in car or using ICE, I don't see any reason for VS for the cost of it. btw. I got Eric's VS in all my cars without ICE and no item charging...so ketam mengajar anak berjalan. Ahh....that is when I still have dough to waste. I do like the light less dimming when compressor jalan.

What I would suggest if you still does not have it, is the GC from Eric. That will be more useful than VS anytime.

If you cannot afford Myth (the best as of now), go for the affordable range, Works. Vibration might be slightly more and if you don't hentam over 5K rpm, I don't see that you will know what's the difference between Works and Myth vibration, neither did I, just based on input from Xan and that big guy from the South (sorry, don't know why always cannot remember his name) . Its cheaper by almost RM200, if I'm not wrong.

Yeah, I concur especially on major failure that require total engine change...I doubt anybody can up CK on that in Malaysia......

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 9 2013, 10:04 AM

Only happened to CK.....the lemon king.

I think I've mentioned SC used my ATF lube for my power steering also.

For power steering, if use same as ATF, just change at 20 or 30K coz if not kena robotic whirling noise like mine. Change this, change that cannot solve. Then later change power steering fluid, sound disappeared. Even SC also did not realise that is the problem.

After 2k not smooth meh!!! Mine get smoother the longer it goes. Since 4K mileage, its seems to be smoother, more FC savings and more powerful vs at the beginning of lube change. Allows me to go above 5K and feel like not changing the lube yet. Still gonna change at 5.5k mileage.

No, using semi. That reminds me, the first time I used Havoline, engine really rougher than usual, vibration also quite strong. However after a few thousand km, it smoothen out. 2nd lube change onwards, it gets quieter, vibration lessen, acceleration smoothen. Not sure but it maybe the 1st time using havoline, it cleans (havoline is sn rated, cleaning agents are supposed to be stronger). Once the engine get used to it, it just works. FS is too expensive for my 5K mileage change. Changing 5K using semi is way more cleaner and better than changing at 10K using FS. A bit more expensive tho..

Itu gua punya City and Civic. City now driven by wife, hit 5K in abt 6month time, just right for 5K FS change. Same with Civic. PE being my main mode of transport to work hit 5K in 2.5-3 months max. Cannot afford to use FS since now going broke for next 20 years.

Won't really do noticeable damage lar but long term wise, not so good in maintaining tip top condition of the engine and its performance. Some ppl swore by clean engine even after long OCI change, so its a case to case basis. Long OCI just increase the risk of permanent performance degradation overtime.

Most ppl might not notice the degradation until they sit in another similar car that has been maintained well. This is especially important for those ppl that retain their car for more than 5 years....that's the beginning of minor degradation effect. Hit 7-10 years, more noticeable. Those that change car every 3-5 years, do whatever you like, since the problem will be on the next owner, if it ever appear.

ps. Most new engines can now take 10K oci, I guess, since engine tech do improve in filteration, combustion efficiency, air filteration, etc. So does the lube tech improvement as well. However for campro tech which technically is a decade behind other branded car makes, IMO, this extended OCI does not apply efficiently.

Since I very free now.....going to give a long winded opinion and review plus promoting PIAA Radix Silicon Wiper. Give it a miss if you get tired of reading.

I bought it at RM190 for 20" and 19" wipers at a whim without going back to check price, highly recommended by an accs shop boss (of course lar, he selling so high price). Got sembelih....coz found out Kaki Motor online site selling at total of RM140 only.

Anyway, for the uninitiated Radix Wiper range is the cheapest of the high end PIAA wipers. Unlike usually sporty and noticeable PIAA wipers, Radix looks exactly like most cars stock wipers. PIAA logo is not printed but indented on the wiper facing down without paint....thus you won't even know its PIAA unless you do a thorough check.

2 reasons most ppl go for PIAA....very sporty, cool look and the high end quality of the wipers. Radix only have 1...the high quality and meant for budget ppl who wants high end wipers without the looks (no reason to fear ppl stealing your wipers since they unlikely to notice its a PIAA).

I'm truly impressed with the wiping capabilities especially on Proton cars. Our wiper switch on the right side of steering is opposite of most cars, thus with me switching cars occasionally, I tend to accidentally switch on wiper often when I want to turn signal.

Dry wiping on dusty screen is a problem for most wipers. They produce either stuttering or low scratch sound or most likely, both. Radix is silent as hell on numerous occasion of dry wiping under hot sun, its also efficiently wipe out the dust from the windscreen albeit with stain if screen is oily. None of the wipers I've used before on all my cars can do that ALL the time.

Wet wiping is extremely efficient and very silent. Initial coating of the wipers produce a RAINX affect on the screen. I think this will wear off overtime. Its already months, wet wiping is still as efficient as when I first install it. Very very clean without miniscule streak of waters unlike ALL the wipers I've used before (Duraedge, Bosch (many models, etc).

Some will argue their RM20 silicon wiper does the job as well and last for years. Can't deny that....but think it this way.

A proton saga can also transport you long distance from point a to point b and do so for years without fail = RM20 silicon wiper. When compared with lets say an Audi, both do the same primary job of transport. However audi engine tech, power, efficiency, comfort is a totally different class from saga. It does it job way more efficiently with its power at hands (no FC comparison lar). Put both side by side, you WILL notice the difference in miniscule efficiency of its tech and performance. Separately both do their job well tho.

So if you're willing to fork out RM140 for Radix wipers after using RM20 wipers, you will notice the MASSIVE difference in wiping efficiency and capabilities. Of course while RM140 can allow 7 times change of many cheap wipers, the satisfaction of Radix crystal clear wiping of BOTH dry and wet wiping can't be match by any other cheap wipers....or other expensive ones as well (ie...bosch twin-aero).

Haha, you can test my City lor....after 8 years. Got a couple of City owners (modders) (also 6-8 years old) walk away impressed with its pickup and performance. They asked me how come my city pickup so strong one....never realise theirs is weaker until they sat on mine.

However I think performance suffer degradation abit nowadays after my wife take over. Drive slow and practically never activate its VTEC, so stay 12 valve all times with ECU learned slow-mid speed driving style. 2 years ago, when I drove consistently at both slow and high speed on highway to give its VTEC 16 valve injector a boost once in a while. Performance is really tip top condition then.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 12 2013, 09:33 AM