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 -+♠+-LYN Proton Persona Owners Club V.XLVIII-+♠+-, Gajah + Nuffs thread!

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Cavino
post Aug 16 2013, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(sleyer @ Aug 15 2013, 10:30 AM)
other question... does any one install VS ?  if YES  what year your car  n got any performance after install VS ?

my car 2011  M-line  when turn on aircond  i can fell my car lost pickup
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VS, I think only slight help on air cond and pickup loss. More towards stabilizing electric for ICE and those who love charging devices in their cars.

GC especially those like Eric's punya full copper cable will have more noticeable improvement for dimming and pickup during air-cond compressor jalan.

Normally installed both at 1 go, both go hand in hand.
Cavino
post Aug 16 2013, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(sleyer @ Aug 15 2013, 11:24 AM)
rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif    so how can reseller VS say can reduce aircond kick , more pickup and  make FC more better  sad.gif
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Most VS sellers will exaggerate a bit. Only thing truly working might be air-cond kick reduction and minimal reduction of pickup loss during kick time. FC better....maybe in milligram kuah coz all my 4 cars with GC and VS no improvement on that.
Cavino
post Aug 16 2013, 10:10 AM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Aug 16 2013, 10:01 AM)
basic mods to push the low end torque:
1. Lightened Crank Pulley
2. Grounding Cables
3. Aftermarket Drop-In air filter (note that the filtration of aftermarket drop-in might not be as good as the stock one thus throttle body gets dirtier faster)
4. remove catcon (which may pollute environment and void warranty) or change to aftermarket extractor.
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Here I go again on LCP..

You want help on pickup improvement without major mod, plug and play LCP is the one to go. IMO, its essential for our weak low end torque PE. Hitting a good quality GC with the right installation spots (ask for Eric's GC), will essential "correct" the weak low end torque of PE for pickup purposes. LCP has side effect of slight increase of engine vibration and noise but more than make up for it thru its low-mid end torque improvement. I won't be driving PE without it anymore.
Cavino
post Aug 16 2013, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(sleyer @ Aug 16 2013, 10:18 AM)
aiyo... so many mods ...   so how much i need spend for this all ?
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Poison Antidote Mode.......although drop in filter will improve torque a bit, as the throttle gets dirtier MUCH faster, it will decrease the car performance and increase FC eventually. So the cons actually negate all the improvement of drop in filter in longer terms besides spending a bit more for FC eventually.

Removing catcon for torque improvement besides dirtying the environment also has a very bad smell to it especially in your car porch.

If every bit of performance counts without considering side effect, by all means go for it (satisfaction) but personally I have live without it so far and my LCP, stiff ring and VS/GC already give very good low end torque improvement for everyday drive.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 16 2013, 10:37 AM
Cavino
post Aug 19 2013, 08:56 AM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Aug 18 2013, 08:27 PM)
Well, aside from getting ABS + EBD + two airbags on a H-Line you get better sound-proofing as well. These are the things that would make me go for a H-Line instead of an Medium or Base Line model.

Anyway, since you can't actually do anything about the car selection anymore, I'd say keep your tyres in a good shape or you'll be shitting yourself every time you need to perform hard braking.
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The biggest unlisted difference is the braking system. The brake pump used by B and M line is the saga 1.3 version, insufficient for braking power for PE due its weight. H-Line used Gen 2 1.6 brake pump thus has very good stock braking system. Of course H-Line has the advantage of ABS+ABD+Rear Disk brake vs only Drum brake for other line.

In order to make up for the difference, have to upgrade the brake pad to a much stronger ones (chances are it will makan the rotor but not much choice). It might not be as efficient as the stock H-Line pump but will at least mitigate the weak stock pump of non-H-Line model.

Stock comfort level of H-line and other lines also has significant difference in material used in the interior. The seat hardness and quality seems to have some slight difference, much prefer the H-line ones (IMO only, not sure if it got real difference). Sound insulation got vast difference between H-Line and others. H-Line has a much more muted noise from outside. Sound of the closing also got much difference due to increased padding within door panel, roof, etc. Of course steering wheel is leather bound (synthetic) also, so got very nice feel vs others. Stock body of H-Line and M-line vs no bk of B-Line, nice. B-Line using iron rim, unless the prev owner upgraded to sport rim liao.
Cavino
post Aug 19 2013, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Aug 19 2013, 08:55 AM)
Change battery got no issues on resetting the ECU. Even more gooding.  brows.gif
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Can just change the battery without switching off the engine, of course have to let trusted mechanic do it coz there is a small chances of short circuit if not done correctly. All my cars including PE always change battery without switching of engine, so no reset impact on anything.
Cavino
post Aug 19 2013, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(dragonteoh @ Aug 19 2013, 01:15 AM)
Dear All,

Just found out just now when try to start my PE, it voice out cranking sound and the engine cannot start at all (did not feel the engine shake at all). Lights all ok. (I quite rare use my car, just use during weekend only)

Tried jump start twice then the car was able to start. After few hours try normal start again, same issue again.

I suspect battery had dead as the battery is come with the car and now age is 2.5 Years old. (I think the battery and tire comes with the car - OEM is not last long then 3 years old).

Plan to replace the battery with Century DIN55R , but i was worrying the ECU will be reset and causes other problem. Any body try to change the Battery by their own before ?

I went to spare part shops, battery shop & SA at Proton SC. They all say just unplug the old battery and replace the new one. But when i tell them about ECU, they say only Toyota & some oversea cars are sensitive on ECU. Proton or Perodua is ok. Can unplug straight ahead.

Can anybody clarify this ? Especially those had change their own ?
After change, any problem comes ?

By the way, just to share. When i receive my car in year 2011 March, i found out the steering was very shaky during driving at 110KM/H on highway. Then i send the car for alignment and normal balancing. The steering still got abit shake. Then no choice, send for on-wheel alignment , then only problem solve.

Recently had swap the tire from behind to front as behind still got 60% while front left about 25%. Once swap , done on wheel balancing on front tire and alignment. Gosh.... drive 70-90km/h the steering is shaky again.... =.=

Foreman told me that the tire was bad, it might be manufacturer defect. Even the foreman say is ok to move back the shaky 60% tire to behind as it wont disturb the steering and buy 2 new tire for the front, but to avoid the shaky tire spoil the rear wheel system, i have no choice to replace all tire.

Now change to Continental CC5, all problem solve with just normal balancing. I found out that many tire shop at my area was like to con people. Same product can be very huge different on price.

Example : CC5 , some shop sale RM260 , some RM280 , some RM240, some even RM200 and got one sale RM320 !

Becareful & Better survey more shop before make decision.
I buy RM240 and after that i saw another shop sale only RM200 with free alignment and balacing if buy 4 pcs.
=.=
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I just change my battery at 2 years even when battery is not dead yet. Don't want to be caught with pants down when battery goes dead after 2 years period. Comment on battery change on post above.

Having a 60% vs 25% tread on rear to front might means you have not be swapping tires at 10K-15K interval coz the difference is too much. I would not have recommend putting that 25% tread to rear coz it might cause rear slip if there is an emergency brake.

If you wanted to do staggered changes such as changing 2 tyres at a time, then I would recommend NOT swapping tyres for the life of the tyres. Used it until front need to change, then swap the rear tyres to front and put new tyres into the back. Repeat cycles when front tyres goes bald. It will save a lot of money on labour cost and balancing when swapping tyres during the life of those tyres.

Only swap tyres if you ever wanted to change ALL 4 tyres at same time when they need to be change.

You should have check the http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?showforum=61 on recent tyre prices before purchasing. At RM240, you can also get the mid-range Yokohama C-Drive 2 for a sportier drive but then again its your preference as it might have faster wear rate although much better overall grip.


Cavino
post Aug 19 2013, 09:11 AM

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QUOTE(AhmadNizrin @ Aug 18 2013, 08:46 PM)
I see, basically I got no requests about the car except cheap maintaince n good fc, so I let them do the choosing  sweat.gif 1st owner recently changed the new conti tyres, can see its still quite new. Thanks for the prompt feedbacks, appreciate it  icon_rolleyes.gif
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Mm....cheap maintenance and good FC......oops I think your parents got the wrong car for that requirement.
Cavino
post Aug 19 2013, 09:16 AM

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QUOTE(TDUEnthusiast @ Aug 18 2013, 01:47 PM)
Anyway, so far DIY'd power steering fluid with Toyota's ATF-IV and there's no longer any trickling sound or whirring sound anymore from the steering wheel. It was quite messy though since I had to deal with a square can rather than a bottle.

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Yep, I mentioned before that changing steering fluid seems to solved the whirring steering sound problems instead of the wrong analysis of the Proton mechanic that change my steering clock spring and actually suggest greasing the steering column when whirring not solved (my mechanic laugh when he heard that coz only big lorries do that, never heard on cars).

Cavino
post Aug 20 2013, 09:19 AM

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QUOTE(dragonteoh @ Aug 19 2013, 05:49 PM)
Try refer the Service Booklet, inside got show what to change / check when come to 40K service.

By the way, my area (Batu Caves) Labour for change
Engine Oil + Oil Filter + Clean Air Filter = RM15
if Engine Oil + Oil Filter + Clean Air Filter + Change Plugs  = RM20 to RM25

Others i not sure as i never change before, my mileage still 20K only.
Be-aware some shop will charge extra 6% tax for labour.
I just bought my service items from spare part shops at my area few day before raya with below price
Shell Helix HX7 10w40 = RM95 free 1 pkt sugar  sweat.gif
Persona Ori Oil Filter = RM9 (White color)
NGK Spark Plugs which original use in Persona = RM35
I got ask the price for
Castrol Magnetic 10w40 = RM100 free NOTHING  doh.gif
Petronas Semi forget the spec = RM90 free NOTHING doh.gif
Proton Ori Air Filter = RM22
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Shell and Castrol got too many fakes out even in spare part shops. So I no dare go buy unless its from an authorised dealer (official).

You will want to consider changing your steering oil also. The last time, proton mech refill mine using the ATF.

btw, Persona Ori Oil Filter got white wan meh. I got a few in my house from Proton SC, can't remember the color, blue or green but definitely not white. Lots of Proton OEM oil filter outside also, yours might be an OEM. Original air filter bought directly from SC is less than RM20.
Cavino
post Aug 20 2013, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(rex82 @ Aug 20 2013, 09:44 AM)
after charge 10 minute the car still can go without shutdown the the engine, but after shutdown the engine won;t be start anymore sad.gif i guess is battery issue?
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When engine is already started, the alternator will provide current directly to the engine with battery serving as backup, thus it will work as long as engine not shut down. It alternator kaput and battery already gone, your engine won't be moving.

So I guess its most likely the battery but then again I'm no mechanic. Mechanic can usually test if alternator is charging, battery is way cheaper and much easier to replace to test if that is the problem.
Cavino
post Aug 20 2013, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Aug 20 2013, 01:13 PM)
shakehead.gif My stock "dry" battery also can last 2 years and a half. How long can the wet type one last if the metal plate inside also finished?
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Although I change in 2 years before it spoilt. Most of my dry lasted over 2-3 years. So I wonder which dry battery still uses the old tech wan, still fast spoil.

When dry batt first appear, very cepat rosak but these couple of years, the life span has been improving till its almost on par with wet, some even better depending on brands.

That mechanic say fast spoil coz its life span might shorter than wet....maybe 1 month or else he say dry no good coz he only got wet.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 20 2013, 01:20 PM
Cavino
post Aug 20 2013, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Aug 20 2013, 01:24 PM)
laugh.gif Even the fake "dry" stock battery also can last so long.
But one thing it faster spoil also due to the heat inside the engine bay. Should do open hood like some buttsacking car.  flex.gif
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Yes...and extend the life of the battery by 1-3 months...

Honestly on heat issue, unless we vroom vroom at high speed ALL the times or do constant continous high rev, the heat inside the engine bay won't have much impact on the battery to makes a noticeable difference in battery life.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 20 2013, 01:28 PM
Cavino
post Aug 20 2013, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(rex82 @ Aug 20 2013, 02:35 PM)
I also not sure why my battery so fast Kong ??? OEM from proton last me about 1 year and the other last me about 1 year and few days.

I also thinking the same thing tongue.gif the owner did not keep the dry type, so tell me dry type not long lasting.

What due to battery so fast kong? My car all stock leh, or maybe i everytime charge phone in the car? When off the engine i cannot put the key to "ON" to listen radio? All this due to reducing the battery lifespan?
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Yes, it help in reducing battery life esp the Key to ON to listen to radio. Don't leave air-cond and radio on before switching on car. It put burden on battery when starting car.

If you always charge phone in car, I would suggest hitting a VS and GC (good quality, look for Eric, ask him give me commission tongue.gif ). Don't know if it helps in lengthening battery life or not but it is rumoured to do so. All my cars has VS and GC now.

Also some battery brands seems to have more problems than others, even branded ones. So far, the only batteries I have consistently used without issue and lasted over 2 years are Panalite batteries. All my cars using that now except for Civic that kong out while my sister is using and she change century battery on spot.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 20 2013, 02:42 PM
Cavino
post Aug 20 2013, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(rex82 @ Aug 20 2013, 03:02 PM)
Thx for the advice smile.gif, ok so i will shut down my radion when i want to off my engine. For the air cond part, i always do shut off when i reach my destination smile.gif

Even the cr start already, the charging of my phone will still effect on the battery? Then need to install VS and GC already haha...
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The VS is to stabilize electric flow for charging your phone ....saving your phone battery life. Car electric flow generated from alternator and shared between engine, etc will not very stable thus VS helps in that aspect. GC helps smoothen the efficiency of the flow of electricity throughout your cars equipment.
Cavino
post Aug 21 2013, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(neorage_x @ Aug 21 2013, 08:32 AM)
Sorry. Damn autocorrect. Haha., yes. Repaint. My car color is black metallic. Standard one. Sticker? That's new info for me? They have sticker that can cover my hood?
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They have sticker than can cover your whole car especially for carbon looks...seen a couple of cars with it. Eliminate painting problems but don't know how long it will last without issues.
Cavino
post Aug 21 2013, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Aug 21 2013, 12:09 PM)
The previous owner give you his LYN account also?
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I guess not only that, Zen might have been sold also to this chap. How is it like, being a used by the chap? whistling.gif
Cavino
post Aug 28 2013, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(nickyclp @ Aug 28 2013, 01:24 PM)
hmm.gif  hmm.gif  will try source my local here for shop doin that.

i call and asked about ignition coil booster & vs.

all told me no bring in for persona.

yawn.gif  yawn.gif
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GC is more useful than VS. They usually comes hand in hand. There are 2 important point when installing GC.

1. The quality of cable. Use 4Gauge Pure Copper cable if possible.
2. Installation points. Incorrect installation point to install cables can render cable ineffective.


You can check out Eric Tioh's GC thread site for some pointers. I'm using his VS and GC in all my vehicles. High quality home made stuff.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1495749

:
Cavino
post Aug 29 2013, 11:07 AM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Aug 29 2013, 11:04 AM)
if u r willing to spend on a decent one..u can go for aftermarket alarm system... smile.gif
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How abt the stock immobilizer (not sure if baseline have one)? If yes, then he have to go back SC and "order" the remote key based on his car code.
Cavino
post Aug 29 2013, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(ckdenion @ Aug 29 2013, 11:16 AM)
if budget allows, i think some high range ones comes wif immo...iinm,need to ask about it.perhaps i can ask tmr? laugh.gif
not too sure also B-line got immo or not...need to ask B-line owners...
means now u cant use ur alarm to lock/unlock car? lock/unlock manually via car key?
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Meaning his main key got everything but the dealer or prev owner lost the spare key and just duplicate key without remote and immobilizer chip. So if lost main key, can masuk door with spare key but still cannot start car with it. I suggest for SC and order one based on your car no, quite expensive (a couple of hundreds, if I'm not wrong).

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