Dear All,
Just found out just now when try to start my PE, it voice out cranking sound and the engine cannot start at all (did not feel the engine shake at all). Lights all ok. (I quite rare use my car, just use during weekend only)
Tried jump start twice then the car was able to start. After few hours try normal start again, same issue again.
I suspect battery had dead as the battery is come with the car and now age is 2.5 Years old. (I think the battery and tire comes with the car - OEM is not last long then 3 years old).
Plan to replace the battery with Century DIN55R , but i was worrying the ECU will be reset and causes other problem. Any body try to change the Battery by their own before ?
I went to spare part shops, battery shop & SA at Proton SC. They all say just unplug the old battery and replace the new one. But when i tell them about ECU, they say only Toyota & some oversea cars are sensitive on ECU. Proton or Perodua is ok. Can unplug straight ahead.
Can anybody clarify this ? Especially those had change their own ?
After change, any problem comes ?
By the way, just to share. When i receive my car in year 2011 March, i found out the steering was very shaky during driving at 110KM/H on highway. Then i send the car for alignment and normal balancing. The steering still got abit shake. Then no choice, send for on-wheel alignment , then only problem solve.
Recently had swap the tire from behind to front as behind still got 60% while front left about 25%. Once swap , done on wheel balancing on front tire and alignment. Gosh.... drive 70-90km/h the steering is shaky again.... =.=
Foreman told me that the tire was bad, it might be manufacturer defect. Even the foreman say is ok to move back the shaky 60% tire to behind as it wont disturb the steering and buy 2 new tire for the front, but to avoid the shaky tire spoil the rear wheel system, i have no choice to replace all tire.
Now change to Continental CC5, all problem solve with just normal balancing. I found out that many tire shop at my area was like to con people. Same product can be very huge different on price.
Example : CC5 , some shop sale RM260 , some RM280 , some RM240, some even RM200 and got one sale RM320 !
Becareful & Better survey more shop before make decision.
I buy RM240 and after that i saw another shop sale only RM200 with free alignment and balacing if buy 4 pcs.
=.=
I just change my battery at 2 years even when battery is not dead yet. Don't want to be caught with pants down when battery goes dead after 2 years period. Comment on battery change on post above.
Having a 60% vs 25% tread on rear to front might means you have not be swapping tires at 10K-15K interval coz the difference is too much. I would not have recommend putting that 25% tread to rear coz it might cause rear slip if there is an emergency brake.
If you wanted to do staggered changes such as changing 2 tyres at a time, then I would recommend NOT swapping tyres for the life of the tyres. Used it until front need to change, then swap the rear tyres to front and put new tyres into the back. Repeat cycles when front tyres goes bald. It will save a lot of money on labour cost and balancing when swapping tyres during the life of those tyres.
Only swap tyres if you ever wanted to change ALL 4 tyres at same time when they need to be change.
on recent tyre prices before purchasing. At RM240, you can also get the mid-range Yokohama C-Drive 2 for a sportier drive but then again its your preference as it might have faster wear rate although much better overall grip.