Or you can ask those airplane model hobbyist people to help you do it.
Just saying....

Just go to any hobby store and ask see if anyone want to offer their service.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 20 2013, 06:51 PM

That's me. The LEDs gets very annoying when you use low profile caps like the ones from Cherry.
Heck I desoldered all the LEDs except the Caps Lock one on my KMAC.

Who is selling LE for $650?
Need to get his head chopped off already.

No such issue with round or square LEDs.
If anything, the round LEDs have the better shape to evenly disperse the light all over the underside of keycaps than the square ones.
As long as they are 3mm, they will fit. Unless you have one of those oddball vintage keycaps.

Here is how it looks like under a Cherry G80-3700HQAUS Numpad.
Thick doubleshot with round 3mm LED. If there were issues with round LEDs, Cherry would not have used it.



Go home, you're being too paranoid.
Looking at the keycaps under super bright case does not fit into the typical use condition of the keycaps.

If you want to compare, do it under normal LED brightness.
Set the camera exposure to something that you are seeing with you eyes, not seeing with the camera.

Why did you think the Koreans put brass weights on their keyboards?
It is very interesting how Ducky is turned into a premium brand in Malaysia while Rosewill is looked at as a lower quality one.
I have owned a Ducky 9 series in the past and I do have a FILCO now. I can't tell the difference in build quality.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 23 2013, 04:28 AM

How bright do you need your LEDs to be?
It all depends on the current limiting resistors being used, the controller signal for LED brightness and also the brightness rating of the LED. i found that at the brightest setting on the round LED is enough to cause temporary bliness on me, if I look at it directly for more than 1 second. In addition, most LED based downlight has dome shaped lense. In that sense, the brightness property of the LED does not depend on the shape of its lense., it depends on the semiconductor mix that is being used.

The part on assembly is irrelevant. High volume manufacturing for Mech keyboards are probably using wave solder technique. The PCB is oriented right side up intonthe machine for soldering. As such, they should not fall out. For DIY purpose, I use kapton tape to hold all the LEDs in place for soldering and peel them off when done. Kapton tapes are made to withstand high temps and are used in soldering, for electrical insulation and etc.

I do not know that there are switches made to fit LEDs better. There are only a few SKUs being offered by cherry, plate mount, pcb mount, pcb mount with diode, Pcb mount with jumper. Is there an SKU with better LED fit?

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 23 2013, 10:24 AM

Do you have pictures detailing the differences?
This is news to me.

Looks like camera angle issue.
Honestly I don't get what message you are trying to present here.

Looks like just the top cover is Metal
Bottom is still plastic.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 23 2013, 03:20 PM

Cherry been making so many switches and now they need to create another mold just for LEDs without proper markings?
Unless you can show clearer pictures, i am not buying your argument.

Crap bags are full of crap.
Unless you want a unicorn vomit board, don't waste your money.

Ewww ISO layout.
It is such an unsymmetrical nightmare

RM700 though. That was how much the KMAC LE cost without switches.
In perspective.

Non of them are suitable.
Even if they are, they are as thin or thinner than your own keycaps.

Why is the keycap thickness an indicator of quality?
It should not be.

60% Love.
55g Gold with Vintage Black is the best linear switch ever. It's so smooooooooooth.
Sorry Krymian, I tried it on one switch but end up building the whole KMAC Happy. Haven't done the firmware yet.

Poker Blue - 65g + Clear Stem. No Plate
KMAC Happy Red - 55g Gold + Vintage Black.

KMAC Happy


Blue Poker + Red KMAC

Not suited for MX Mini due to 60% layout

It is fully programmable. Comes with an ATMEGA32U4.
Plenty of guides, but I still have not figure it out.

Try to grab it from originativeco, or Taobao.

Group Buy time want reach 20 also susah.
You're very good on the marketing side.

You're asking people, if you don't pasang the light bulb but flip the switch, will it turn on?
Need to answer?

SlowPoke.
The picture was from 2 years ago.

Whether local vendor want bring it or not is immaterial.
If you want it, you will find a way to get it.

From Taobao, JP - got forwarding service.
From Korea, go make some korean friends, don't shy shy.
From Amedika, go Geekhack and make amerika friend. Don't shy shy also.

Then I will charge 300% of the original price
Nice way to make money man!!

Do you want to get something because it is popular or because you want to use it?
Vortex's mainstream stuff, i.e keyboards are pretty good. Just that they have less attention to detail when it comes to the plastic molding and minor design flaws. These are not dealbreakers. Just minor annoyances with workarounds if you figure out how to do it. The POKER 2 is a third generation product, after the Poker and the Pure. Vortex should incorporate the learnings and they seem to have, with improved features on top of the older boards.

Main issue with the quality is on the alu case that they have made. Also, some people raised complaints on the font that they have used on the PBT, but that is really personal preference. Majority of negative feedback on vortex is the major delay on the delivery.

Keycool keyboards are pretty decent and a good buy if you so choose to use it. But do note that some spacebars do not work if you decide to splurge on custom keycaps. Keyboards with more common spacebar spacings are the KBT Oni, Filco, CM storm QFR, Ducky etc. Do ask here if you are unsure. Since you are here, you might come across custom keycaps and may consider buying them in the future. try to avoid boards with weird key layouts unless you are content with using the original keycaps.

Nobody can tell you what form factor to choose. You are the decider. But the main consideration is whether you can use the poker layout for day to day use. It has a shallow learning curve but some people don't like it.Tkl is more traditional, and hence, no problem with adaptability.

Since you game, ask yourself whether do you need to use the arrow cluster frequently, or is wasd enough. Do you need the F keys? If the answer is no, then you have your decision.

I personally like 60% boards due to looks, portability and modability. There are many mods available at a decent pricings compared to the TKL counterparts. I have 5 60% boards in different switch types and layout, so, my opinion may be skewed.

Go get a Filco or something.
If people don't offer, pakai import la.
Not your first time also kan?

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Jun 29 2013, 12:45 AM