hahah what a shame on me again hahahaha

DLS A8 is an amp haha a noob here haha

Nvm i learn something new agian~ hehe

...hmm Type X n 236..what u tihnk guys?

good for sq and spl right?

any more othes options?

i though CDT very powerful as u said~ "mid bass is Very nice" hehe

DLS A8 is 4 x 40W RMS...mini 4 channel amp..

ok here is the story goes....

after reading so many go things abt DLS R6A, at first i went to puchong ask for the price foe DLS, they quoted me 1250 with some sound proof and i think is a bit too expensive. the next day i came across this shop ACP ss2. i went straight away asked for DLS R6A. they quoted me 800 after some bargain from 1100. i requested them to test it at my car before i purchase, they agreed.

after the installation of DLS with some minor tuning here and there and asked me too listen to the sound again. i'm still not good in sound but i think it does sound better then my previous fake mbq. sound better but not far different. after chit chat a bit, a guy talk to me(not the shop sale person but the regular) he ask he to test out cdt. sure different from from dls. at first was eyeing at the CL series but after so many poison end up took the hd series and it does sound far different from dls.

actually before that regular guy told be to try out cdt, i listen to his car audio and he is using cdt es series(yellow cone) which is the top model and it sounds fantastic, i scolded the ACP boss for not recomend me cdt instead.

i end up spend 1600 for cdt hd series with sound proofs

bro bro...DLS mid not good enough ?

though is awesome?

any lower range of CDT?

anymore comp u fall for it at ACP??

[quote=terencetoo,Aug 8 2006, 10:48 PM]
haha ya lor

what to do i 1 2 get something within this weekend...

might get DLS R6A from SS2 since is rm 800...or CDT if really suit my hearing hehe

what about the DLS A8 ? awesome? can beat CDT?

Act i can fork out my max budget to rm 1400 max

Just like to know which amp can pump all these comp i mentioned lor~

CDT
DLS A8
DLS R6A
ADS 236i
Alpine Type X
maybe ETON??? at CV uptown~(many customers there at 8.30pm)




haha terence,
audit it i'm sure you will like it, the cdt.
btw, you should compare DLS R6A to CDT CL series not the hd series.

how much is the cdt CL series? rm 800 too?

btw..as usual..got a deal from ZTH..fully jbl package...
JBL 6506comp..
JBL amp c 60.4
JBL 10"wwoofer?

iz very strong BAss for this setup?

from ...mnkh...
1)ads236 n DLS A8
2)ads236 n PHD 2200 (200w x 2)

hehe

which one is good choice tat i wont regret..u know i lawiz

*sam tai sam sai* in contonese...muagahahahaha




This post has been edited by terencetoo: Aug 9 2006, 07:23 AM

Any review about Soundstream XSC.6?

PHD2200 + a/d/s 236i

In fact, i would say get the Tru T-2.100 instead of the PHD, even though the power rating is only half of the PHD, it's control is much better

aiyo...y see ppl installed other brand u dunno wat to decide?

well...for me if the speaker sound good, i will get it

it is diff lar...the ears of other ppl n urs might differ too...

eg. u might think this gal very sui...but to some others...they might think that she is kanasai...rite?

best is to listen n decide...good luck!

~ as what i know....many of u said DLS A8 is mini Amp what is suppost to mean mini amp?

DLS A8 is 4 channel amp...can someone explain the spec for me?



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RMS output per channel at 13,8 volts, 20 Hz - 20 kHz , < 0,1% distortion.
Mode : AB
Number of channels : 4
Output power in 4 ohm : 4 x 40 Watts
Output power in 2 ohm : 4 x 80 Watts
Output power in 4 ohm bridge mode : 2 x 165 Watts
Output power in 2 ohm bridge mode : 2 x 220 Watts
Tri-mode in 4 ohms load : 2x 40 W + 1 x 195 W
Tri-mode in 2 ohm load : 2 x 75 W + 1 x 230 W
Tri-mode in 4 / 2 ohm load : 2 x 40 W + 1 x 250 W
S / N ratio, A-weighted : > 100 dB
Damping factor : > 200
Input impedance : > 10 kohm
Input sensitivity, variable : 0,5 - 5 V
Crossovers on all channels : Lowpass: variable 50-125 Hz. Highpass: OFF / 70 Hz / 90 Hz
External fan terminals : No
Dual DC input : No
Current draw, idle : 0,7 A
Current draw, maximum : 50 A
Dimensions W x D x H : 350 x 240 x 73 mm (13,78 x 9,45 x 2,87 inch)
Weight : 4,8 kg ( 10,6 lb)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1)what is bridge?
2)Output power in 4 ohm : 4 x 40 Watts means i use 4 ohm comp set n its 40W power? Output power in 2 ohm : 4 x 80 Watts ??? what is "4" ???

the ADS 236 haveing 150w RMS..can this amp cope? enough?
Y must 1 comp set pair with 1 set of 2 channel amp not 4 channel amp? in future upgrade..y must seperate another amp for woofer? (another 2 channel amp?)

thanks

1) bridge mode means combine the power of 2 channels into 1 channel
-Output power in 4 ohm : 4 x 40 Watts
-Output power in 4 ohm bridge mode : 2 x 165 Watts

2)4x40w @ 4ohm means by using a 4ohm driver..u can achieve 40w rms in all 4 channel, total of 160w rms..on the other hand..if u're using 2ohm driver...u can achieve 80w rms..total of 360w rms ( but i haven seen any 2ohm tweeter and mid in my life... )

so assume the ads will be running passives..so 2 x 165w rms shud be able to fulfill the factory requirement of 150w rms...
i recommend u to get the price of the PHD2200 and the TRU T4.100
if the price is not much different...the TRU T4.100 will be a better choice..

u can opt for 4channel or 2channel for a comp set...no harm...even a 6/8channel also can
if u're running passives- 2channel will require to power up the comp set (some bi-wire can run 2ch or 4ch)
amp choices: 2ch->comp set, 4ch->bridge2ch->comp set. 4ch->2ch for comps,2ch bridge@1ch for sub
if u're running actives - u will require a 4channel (at least) 2ch for the mids, 2ch for the tweets
amp choices: 2 x 2ch, 1 x 4ch, 1x6ch (4ch for 2mids+2tweets), 1x8ch in bridge mode into 4ch)

@GRexer
i fancy the natural-ness of PHD
but also..the control of TRU is much better...can't deny

This post has been edited by driftmeister: Aug 9 2006, 10:45 PM

Thanks thanks thanks

what about gto75.4
====================================================
4-channel car amplifier
» 104 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (142 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
» 284 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
» optional internal neon lighting (accommodates StreetWires AN9 tubes or equivalent, tubes not included)
» variable high- and low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB per octave)
» MOSFET power supply
» preamp-level inputs and outputs
» speaker-level inputs
» CEA-2006 compliant
» fuse rating: 30A x 2
» 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended - wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» 15-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 12-5/16"D
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

hmm....

PHD 2200...i know is a high end brand,,,abit pricy too...rm 2k bro

but what about the DLS A8? not good enough? so u mena im fully using the 4 channel port is tat so?

no more space for me to attach woofer in the future right. Need to get another 2 channel amp to boost the sub?

btw there's 2Ohm comp set which is JBL GTO607 series...is 2ohm~

really DLS A8 not tat good???? i mean compare to others normal 4 channel amp like gto75.4??

This post has been edited by terencetoo: Aug 9 2006, 11:06 PM

dun ever ask me on JBL

A8..not no good...but in terms of power...it lose a bit...

anybody know how much the retail selling price for tru 4.100?
thanks

edit:

4.100v2 is above 3k

it's the 2.100 which cost around 2k
my mistake

This post has been edited by driftmeister: Aug 10 2006, 10:30 PM

where to get the cheapest original tru 4.100

TRU...rm2~2.5 whaa...

out of budget...

em.....but worth of getting it? i mean in lossing the handling power?

act what i 1 2 know...ADS236 n ADSA8 wise.....iz a good matching? in term of power loss will it effect the comp set preformace? since u say it can be bridge?

DLS A8 power too low (for me la)... If can I rather go for DLS A4 la TRU 4.100 good also ....

For me, JBL not my cup of tea loh...not suitable me loh..

If you think TRU 4.100 too expensive...Hmm
Maybe you can try Helix Dark Blue 4, price about RM1500 to RM1700 but a bit thick loh

The DLS A8 is called "The Mini Four" as it's smaller in power compared to it's bigger brother, the A4. "The Big Four"

Power rating wise:
A8 = 4x40Wrms
A4 = 4x85Wrms

Hope this helps in explaining the "mini four" part

BTW, i think used 4.100v2 goes for about 2k-2.5k, new can get for that price?