I think we should start off a new acoustic thread for some general information about acoustic guitar. As the starter, I will always update(edit) the first few post with the best info available hence it will ease our friends to do reserach.

Part A:
Do i need to give you detail description what a tuning peg is? What is bridge? If you want here it is...


For a lot of intermediates, when come to purchasing new guitar, GAS mode, we tend to ask what to get. To be honest, who are we to decide for you? Yes, there are some basic info that we can get from internet such as wood combination and characteristic of the wood. But those friends in cyber space will never know what you want. You say you want warmer sounding guitar. So how warm is the warm? Some do say that Taylor has warm sounding while it towards brightness. See, this is the taste. No one know what you want. Go out and try your self. When you dilemma and spoiled by choices AFTER TRYING, it is time to go online and discuss. If you yourself, didn't try the guitar, how much you can describe about the guitar? How much do you like it? How much you don't like it? So try them...

What is the purpose of this thread then? ok... To share some basic wood info and how different species different from each other. Never take for granted. Bracing design and body size definitely contribute to changes in tone. So, bare in mind that here only some basic information.


Tonewood/Top Wood



Sitka Spruce

The primary topwood used by many manufacturers. Sitka has bright, robust sound that works well for all playing styles.


Redwood

Redwood is similar to Cedar, warm, rich, and complex. It exhibits a slightly darker tone with less pronounced bass and more headroom than Cedar.


Western Red Cedar

A warm, thick tone with rich overtones and a very pronounced bass. Widely used on classical guitars, its "open" tone works best for fingerstyle or light strumming. Cedar has virtually no break in period.


Bear Claw Sitka Spruce

A slightly stiffer version of Sitka with unique figure appearing in the grain. Bear Claw Sitka exhibits tonal characteristics of Sitka Spruce, but because of its added strength it can have a more robust and punchy voice.


Engelmann Spruce

Light in color with a rich, complex tone. This wood best suits a more gentle touch. Great for fingerpicking with warm bass and complex overtones.


Port Orford Cedar

Despite its name, Port Orford Cedar is a member of the cypress family and not a true cedar. It falls tonally between spruce and cedar, leaning toward a warm spruce top in sound and stiffness.


Adirondack Red Spruce

Some call it the "holy grail" of top woods. It was widely used on pre-war and vintage instruments. Adirondack has a crisp, clear tone with high headroom and strong fundamental content.


Carpathian Red Spruce

Harvested from the Carpathian Mountains in the Ukraine, it is generally whiter in appearance but very similar to Adirondack Red Spruce, exhibiting a lively, crisp, bright tone.


Hybrid Flamed Redwood

Our Hybrid Flamed Redwood tops combine highly figured Redwood with a graft of Adirondack Red Spruce. These tops feature the strong fundamental tone of Adirondack Red Spruce with the warmth and character of Redwood.


Hybrid Flamed Walnut

Our Hybrid Walnut tops combine Flamed Walnut with a Western Red Cedar graft. The weight of the hardwood used in these tops result in less volume than most softwood tops. They exhibit a mellow, round tone with a strong fundamental punch with less overtones.


Hybrid Koa

Our Hybrid Koa tops combine Flamed Koa with a Western Red Cedar graft. The weight of the hardwood used in these tops results in less volume than most softwood tops. They exhibit a clean, fat tone with a strong fundamental punch and less overtones.


Hybrid Flamed Black Redwood

The Black Flamed Redwood tops combine highly figured Black Redwood with a graft of Adirondack Red Spruce. Like the Flamed Redwood, the Black Flamed Redwoods feature the strong fundamental tone of Adirondack Red Spruce with the warmth and character of Redwood.



Back & Side Woods



East Indian Rosewood

East Indian Rosewood offers a deeply resonant tone. Rich complex low ends, and strong mids and highs make this a great all-around choice for back and sides.


African Mahogany

African Mahogany has a warm lively tone with clear mids and trebles. Often referred to as having a "woody" tone it's low overtone content gives it a crisp strong fundamental that is bright and responsive.


Granadillo

Granadillo is a heavy and dense tropical tonewood which reacts much like rosewood, powerful and rich.


Beeswing Mahogany

A stunning Mahogany with small wavy grain and interlocking flame pattern similar to that of a bees wing. Beeswing's tight grain and figure make this an excellent choice for those that are looking for a mahogany guitar.


Cocobolo

Heavier and denser than many types of rosewood, Cocobolo has a rich orange and red coloration. A Latin American rosewood, it exhibits strong resonance and rich overtones.


Flamed Black Acacia

Sometimes referred to as Australian Blackwood; Black Acacia behaves much like Koa and Mahogany. Black Acacia's grain offers a shimmer not found in Koa and it is a mainstay of Australian builders. It is found in Africa, India, and Northern California but originated in Southern Australia.


Flamed Maple

Flamed Maple is a stiff and stable tonewood with a loud and bright voice. Highly reflective, Flamed Maple balances a tight crisp high end with warm lows.


Flamed Walnut

Flamed Claro Walnut has a strong fundamental, with warmth and balance. Walnut has less depth and projection than rosewood and a slightly darker tone than Mahogany.


Honduran Mahogany

Honduran Mahogany is becoming increasingly rare. Like other Mahogany's it has a warm lively tone with clear mids and trebles. Often referred to as having a "woody" tone it's low overtone content gives it a crisp strong fundamental that is bright and responsive. Its grain is generally tighter than that of African Mahogany.


Myrtle

Oregon Myrtle is an American tonewood, clear and bright with a bottom end much like rosewood.


Pau Rosa

Another tropical hardwood from South America, Pau Rosa is a very dense tonewood, which falls between the rosewoods and ebony tonally.


Quilted Maple

Sometimes referred to as "Big Leaf" Maple, Quilted Maple is generally softer than Flamed Maple. Quilted Maple's tone is therefore slightly warmer and darker.


Striped Macassar Ebony

Striped Macassar Ebony is a very dense and heavy tonewood from Southeast Asia. Macassar Ebony features a robust and loud tone much like rosewood, with great clarity.


Wavy Mahogany

Wavy Mahogany is another rare and beautiful variation of Mahogany. Like Quilted Maple, Wavy Mahogany is slab cut, which causes it to be slightly warmer but overall shares the tonal characteristics of other species of Mahogany.


Highly Figured Bubinga

Often referred to as an African Rosewood, Bubinga is technically not in the rosewood family. It does however share many of the tonal qualities found in other rosewoods.


Koa

A member of the acacia family, Koa grows only in Hawaii. Flamed Koa is a gorgeous tonewood displaying some "Mahogany like" properties. Clean and bright with a rich low end.


Madagascar Rosewood

A great substitute for Brazilian Rosewood in both looks and sound. Madagascar Rosewood is increasing in popularity.


Wenge

A heavy and dense wood from Western and Central Africa. Tonally it compares with Ebony.


Highly Figured Sapele

A highly stable wood from Africa. Our Sapele has beautiful figure with a tone similar to Mahogany.


Bastogne Walnut

Bastogne Walnut trees are a natural cross of English and Claro walnut trees. These trees are very rare with beautiful flame and grain patterns. The tone is like that of Flamed Walnut.


Brazilian Rosewood

Generally considered the best tonewood for steel stringed instruments; Brazilian Rosewood is a highly prized choice for back and sides. Endangered and becoming very rare, Brazilian Rosewood has everything other rosewoods have to offer and more. A rich powerful sound full of overtones and depth.


Ziricote

A hard, dense South American tonewood, Ziricote shares many tonal properties of Ebony and Brazilian Rosewood.

click >>>Here<<< The Refference...

This post has been edited by ILoveMyGuitarss: May 23 2013, 09:53 AM

Acoustic Guitar Setup

What is setup? To setup the guitar so the PLAYABILITY up to the user's taste.

Playability of an acoustic guitar often affected by 2 things
1. String Height / action
2. Neck Relief

Never mess these 2 things.I saw some youtube that misleading by giving you tutorial that tension the trussrod to lower down the action. Man, this will totally mess up the playability and buzzing mostly caused by this and also too low saddle or nut. This may be a lengthy read.

Before you go to adjust the neck relief, please have your desire action ready.

There are 3 situation of your guitar. no matter what guitar you are using.
1. Concave or “Bow” neck.
2. Convex or “Hump” neck
3. Straight neck




Straight neck are not recommended. Further explanation will be provided later. Now we move to trussrod adjustment. To adjust counter clockwise? or Clockwise.. A picture speaks a thousand world... Basically when your guitar back bow, you counter clockwise the trussrod. When your guitar too much of front bow, you clock wise the trussrod. If straight? counter clockwise a little. But always remember, do not turn more than 90degree/1 quarter at a time. After each adjustment, you shall left for guitar for 20-30mins to take effect.



Here the interesting one. Why a little neck relief is always desirable? This is because string vibrate in the elliptical shape. Here a photo to illustrate...


And most importantly how much relief is needed? Here another photo for illustration. Capo your 1st fret. Press your 14th fret. use a name card to slot into 8th fret. It shouldn't be too lose or too tight. if you have a straight edge, 1st fret and 9th fret will be touching the straight edge.



Ok, here the way to get the correct relief.

Credit to Mr Adam Chan from Singapore. This is what I extracted from the info that he share with me...

Beside that do browse thru this sticky thread. Mr JohnLau had share some useful tips on setting up guitars also.



Thx for Everdying for the correction.
Before you make your truss rod adjustment, you should have make sure the nut and saddle height. Once you complete your desire action then only adjust the neck relief..

This post has been edited by ILoveMyGuitarss: May 23 2013, 12:11 PM

How to Maintain your guitar and Improve the Tone.


Maintenance
First, humidity is always important. We are having 60-80% of RH which is no good for wood. Ideal humidity is about 45-55%. Not all of use can afford to have air-cond to run 24 hours. So if possible, get yourself a dehumidifier. When I was into photography, a lot of enthusiast, told me sun light is good to dry the camera, and they often suffer from fungus. Why? Hot doesn't mean low humidity. aircond is cold, but it release dry air.

What to be used to condition your guitar?
1. Fiber Cloth
2. Lemon Oil
3. Non Wax polish

Everytime you change the death string, oil the fretboard and the bridge. They will have nice rosewood/ebony color tone after you apply lemon oil. Put a few drops of lemon oil onto the fiber cloth then you can start rubbing the fingerboards and bridge. It can be used to remove dirt that stick on fret wire too. If you cant remove the stubborn stain on the fret, you can buy steel wool from hardware shop. And beware if you use steel wool. Please use masking tape to tape your fingerboard. else it will remove some material from your fingerboard.

Lastly, before string up, please polish your guitar by using non wax type of polish. Then your guitar will be shine like new...


Improve Guitar Tone

Due to economy of scales and availability, guitar manufacturer will prefer to use what are cheap to them and ease to access. For example, Nut, saddle and bridge pins materials. These materials had huge debates in cyber space on how they effect the guitar tone. I was surprised that the awareness that Singaporean have in this field. Not to say we Malaysian not aware, but just that the awareness is way less compared to Singapore. When I discuss with them, they really know a lot. If today, you are still saying, nut, saddle and bridge pins material make no difference, then you should stop here and do not continue reading. Everybody has some believe. And these material, somehow is more marketing gimmick. For those who are believe in these materials, please continue...



Bone
Many luthiers and guitar manufacturers prefer bone saddles for their instruments. This bone has minimal porosity and a great appearance. Its density and minimal porosity are features that yield good intonation and clarity. White bone is the traditional choice for making nuts and saddles on quality instruments and it is by far the most popular . While it is white there are subtle color variations that add to the beauty of this natural material. If you have little budget, Bone nut and saddle is always recommended.

Most of the guitars in the market are originally installed with a tusq or micarta nut and saddle. By upgrading tusq or micarta to BONE, you probably will have following changes:

*rise in volume
*the top vibrate better with brighter tone
*sound fuller with more ringing treble
*greater bass respond than those man made material




FMI


How these FMI actually spiced up or improve the guitar in terms of tonality? So here I list down some reason for you as compared to bone saddle

1. Note by note separation
2. Clearer ringing tone. (sometime more bell-like tone )
3. More responsive. the topwood will vibrate more
4. More overtones and sweeter sounding trebles (from some of the users)
5. Sound Warmer (more bassy)

The downside. FMI may be very costly.




Bridge Pins
This is also another myth that well debate over the forums. Some do hear the differences, while some no. Have you ever try to change the plastic pins to brass pins? I'm sure you 100% hear the differences. So It will change your guitar tone. But it is a matter of significant to our ears or not. Bone Pins are widely used in higher end guitars. And some user with greater budget will upgrade to Fossilised Mammoth Ivory or Fossilised Walrus ivory, or the black buffalo horn pins.

The material above, FMI (Legal to international trade) and Bone, I had personally tried them over the years. To be honest, I had no experience with Fossilised Walrus Ivory (illegal to international trade) and the black buffalo horns. The information above are my own experience and what FMI users told me after they had use it on their guitars. If you have experience with buffalo horns as nut/saddle/pins, please inform me. Comparing the changes that it to your original parts. I will update this page as new material being tested.


Ramp The Bridge Pins hole
Sounds scary? Not at all? Why Ramp? To have your string to bite the saddle at the best break angle which is around 45 degree. What the function? You will have longer sustain. But not all owner's do this, as inside the Guitar has a god that they cannot offend. .. OK Joking pls... Dun sabotage me !!!




Some Low Q recording sample

Om21 With Bone Saddle + Ori Plastic Pins

om21 with Fmi saddle + Bone Pins



Play your Guitar, Enjoy it and Love your Guitar..

This post has been edited by ILoveMyGuitarss: Jun 4 2013, 09:42 PM

Acoustic Guitar Buying Guide for Beginner

This is a all time hot topic. For no reason, beginner will forever unsure about what to buy. This is because, they gather information on internet only. Internet or forums always a good source to gather data and information. But as one of the forumer mention, it is not a computer. You can't just expect to put all parts together and it perform like the one. We don't produce wood. We grow the tree and cut them before turn them into guitar. So I can 100% tell you, 2 different guitar from the same factory, using the same technology, same rocket science, same materials, same wood, same control man, both of them still sound different.

Click >>>>>>HERE<<<<<< to link to one of our otai's guide.

I will suggest stop reading online as you gather enough information. It is time to go out to try. To kapok or not or to F310 or not, it is all up to your choice. But I will advise you to at least, get a solid top guitar. It will last you much longer... as you spend more, you will have more responsibilities to continue... I'm not going to have detail on how and where to buy, but to tell you what are solid top, full solid, and laminated.

1. Full Laminated/Beginner's Guitar/Budget guitar - Okay F310 and Kapak are in this category. They constructed by laminated wood (a few ply stick together). These guitar have stiff construction and the top can barely vibrate. Normally for the price less than 600/700 RM.

2. Solid Top Guitar - It is a guitar that made by better wood combination. It will has a solid wood tonewood/topwood (no laminated), and laminated back and side. You normally spot a nato neck or mahogany neck. Some lower grade rosewood fingerboard and bridge. As for the solid top species, Spruce and cedar are commanly used. Back and side mostly laminated mahogany. Certain model do come with laminated rosewood such as Taylor 2 series. Normally solid top will cost around RM700 until Rm3k-Rm4k. Depends on brand of course.

3. Full Solid guitar - It is like how you call it. Full Solid simply means no laminated tone wood for top/back/side. But there are certain brand using 5 pieces or 3 pieces neck to reinforce the neck strength. This is the guitar that you should get if you are seriously into acoustic. Among these 3, this will aged and have sweeter as time goes on. Price range is varying from Rm1.5k to Rm 6 digits maybe. It is really depends.

Silly Question
Will a rm4k solid top sound better than a 1.5k full solid acoustic?
As I said, go out and try. no one know what you want. One man's food is another man's poison.

Why at least the Solid Top is desirable?
Laminated wood constructed with a few plies of wood by glueing them together. Hence it is very stiff and not vibrate well. Solid wood like spruce is somehow a softer type of wood. Hence they can vibrate better. The myth behind of acoustic guitar is always to let the top vibrates to the max. To know how difference species of wood affect the sound, please refer to the first thread.


Accessories that Good to Bundle with...
1. Tuners - get your guitar tuned in pitch. Some higher end comes with metronome which is good for practice.
2. Guitar Stand - you may don't want to lay your against the wall and endup "oh my guitar falling down, falling down, falling down".
3. Capo - If you need one? If you don't know what is this, forget about it. Buy it when you know about it.
4. some cleaning stuff such as fiber cloth, lemon oil and polish...

So guys, go out and try. Else forever you will never make your decision as you don't know how it sound. Some of you will start a new thread when you have a new option. No offence, but I can tell you, you will never get a worthy answer. A lot of forumers give you an answer that they feel it is better and not because they had tried them. Some more experienced player may able to tell you what to expect with certain wood combination, but it is still far from hear it and try it yourself. For instant, I never like how a Taylor sound but I like its neck profile. I like the sound from Martin but I never a fans of Martin's neck profile.

Last but not least, STOP ASKING AND IT IS TIME TO GO OUT & TRY!!! Come back to ask with some information in your hands. Don't just give us an A vs B question. Do tell us how you feel after you try A, how you feel after you try B. Then we can assist you better... right? It is about WHAT YOU WANT!!



Acoustic Guitar Luthier's Around KL

>>>>>Jeffrey Yong<<<<< - Jeffrey made quality guitars, and he is well known. He is known by introducing local woods to the world.

Edward Hiew - Edward do custom made guitars and repair. A very helpful person. If your guitar need neck reset? Repair finishing chips? Give him a try...


Useful info

John Lau - He is not only service your guitar, but he teach you how to service your guitar.

StewMac - for those who are looking for professional guitar tools and diy. Beside that, they shared useful information how to use similar tools and some cheap alternative.

This post has been edited by ILoveMyGuitarss: Jun 10 2013, 09:55 AM

that is actually the incorrect way to adjust relief.
rule of thumb is to always get the action at the nut right first, before attacking the bridge...and that is of cos before attacking the truss rod and making sure all frets are level.

amongst those 3, i only trust edward.

Thanks Everdying... My bad... hahahaha

Every time I service friend's guitar, I started with nut. Then saddle... and lastly strung up and adjust the truss rod. I never mess up the flows and never know that I cannot. Thanks for the tips.


And I agree with you. Edward has real good service.

This post has been edited by ILoveMyGuitarss: May 23 2013, 11:08 AM

Good info I only know how to strum strum strum. Don't know how to maintain.

No Worries shootingstar. Share with us how you strum and how much you love your guitar.

good job bro

btw you know any warm acoustic guitar bands? i tried martins, taylor, lakewood all sound damn trebly like no bass like that

You mean brands? Martin and Mcpherson are warm. Had you try Om21 or Hd28 from Martin? I personally have experience with these guitars and they get warmer after aged for a few years.

If still not warm enough? Any guitar, give FMI saddle a try. Bone saddle tend to be more brittle. Normally if friend request for warm sound, I suggest make 2 changes to their acoustic guitar.
1. Fmi saddle... if you want nut also. Then you will hear fatter tone..
2. Ebony pins... it will tighten the bass a little. If you hear muddy base with ebony pins, then bone pins will be the best substitute.

I'm yet to try with FMi pins and fwi pins. They have some legal issue when cross border.

Frankly, a lot of wood combination will produce warm sound... So far, the warmest I came across is Full Koa from Taylor with FMI saddle. Very warm and powerful tone. How is this?



This post has been edited by ILoveMyGuitarss: May 24 2013, 12:41 AM

Dont you feel this is a cool saddle?


Requested by the owner to compensate string by string. And it doesn't feel like handcraft at all.

Hey guys... question... anyone know where can I buybor order a dehumidifier? I shop from KL to Ipoh. Only found humidifier. Most of the salesman n sales girl cannot understand their differences.

try camera shops.

THey have dry box. Guitar size is about 120 liter.. I can cost 2x dehumidifier.. I'm a photographer. I have the 40 liters one...

yes u are a photographer.
i also got drybox for most of my camera equipment

anyway, got portable one that uses selica gel which u can dump into a guitar hardcase...as a photographer i thought u would've seen this.
http://shashinki.com/shop/wonderful-electr...20g-p-2853.html

another thing that some photographers use, and acoustic guitarists also found out about is this - http://www.zorb-it.com/
not sure where to get it here, but can get it in SG.


This post has been edited by Everdying: May 26 2013, 10:03 PM

TRied them. Not efficient in drying guitar. But good to keep ambient rh down in the box. Still not a total solution for drying those wet guitar...

I have a 13 years old classical. Used to have flat back. Now bellying. Thru some research knew that it actually absorb too much of moisture. Tried the recharge one... it keep rh down.. but not drying the guitars. That is the reason why looking around for dehumidifier. They normally cost around rm800 or above. But very hard to get one.

then u need to go build a special cabinet just for it...having an aircon room will help keep moisture lvls low also.
i got a el-cheapo classical that is about 23yrs old now...still flat as before.

Awesome thread bro!
Btw I want to ask, my bridge pins seems to be loose. When trying to tune, sometimes the damn string pops back right out. Scared the hell out of me.
How do you recommend to remedy this? Get new pins or change the bridge? The pins seemed to be fine..

Personally feel it is all fine. Everytime I change new set of string the same things happen to me as well. So I will have one hand turning peg one hand pressing the pins.

Another solution, slot ur bridgepin hole. Then use non slotted pin. Frankly, if slot the bridge pin hole, the string still hold tight without pins. Hahhah....

Or... replace ur bridge pin with oversize pin.

Here great info of why they slot the bridge pin hole and ramp. They r 2 different things. I always advise those owner to ramp the bridge pin holes... for better string brake angle. The sustain will noticeable improved.
http://www.bryankimsey.com/bridges/slotted.htm

Good thread. Thanks for the info!