Hi everyone here..

Do you will invest a original rims or due to budget and go for fake rims from Taiwan or china made?

Cause recently I go with fake Enkei Taiwan so far so good.
Dunno how durable to hit on pothole yet.

Thanks your sharing & experience of usage.

Always choose original. No money for original, then don't change. Unless you're all-show-and-no-go type of person.

As for Enkei, as long as it is original, nevermind it's made in Taiwan, Malaysia or Japan, the quality should be the same. Although, some of them uses MAT production technique which gives better quality and robustness.

But from my point, end up still go for original made in Japan enkei or SSR rims.

To be solve up the pothole problem

i bought ori second hand rim. dont buy china or fake one. you gonna regret later.

Ya that's true price is a big gap.

Even like SSR type C in 2nd hand still much expansive than new.
I mean in JB seller.

i dont really know what is the different. I mean, I use it only for normal daily drive on highway and town. rarely hit any hole and the 8-10kg weight different is nothing.

conclusion, I'm a cheapo and go for the fake one. :)

For my case is just bought the enkei RPF1 look like fake as cheap as Rm800 for 15 inch also lighter weight as 4.4kg per rim.

Ha ha that's y have to find out what an diff also.
The original come with car is heavy like hell on bullet proof when hit on pothole.

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 2 2013, 12:01 PM

replica/fake also not bad if u just do a normal driving

and using original have it risk also...often target by thief and then u ended up with ur car sitting on bricks

That's y from Rm800 vs Rm2800.

Once you hit anything, can be guaranteed you the heart pain until dunno how to said.

my original proton sport rim (came with full spec 14 years iswara) also got people steal, and yes car sat on bricks

for 15"
rm600-1k vs rm2.5-5k depending what rims you're getting

very insane price gap

Huh did u put 4 diff special nut to be lock your legend rims?

cant quite remember, was a very long time ago.

now all 4 advanti sport alloy rims lol

now imagined all those shiny bling bling original SSR type C, advan rg2, te37, rpf-1 etc....

Lol..

My fake rim here :

Reminds me one of the episode of Mighty Car Mods..

I'm on used japan's SSR- Type C RS. No money ? stay stock rim and save up to get a decent rim la. to hell with replicas

heres the problem sometimes... my original advanti is about 6.2kg... replica rays is around 5.6kg, almost a full kg lighter.

want to talk about durability, even rm10k rims can gg from pot holes/accidents anyways.

although i guess it's the same deal with piracy
(yes i do spend a lot of money on original shit lol)

Look like really bad on m'sia road condition.

How bout Lenso rim have any comment?

SSR not recommend for racing used.
I'm worried about the video also >.<

http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/cars-car...-4090608-5.html

How do you differentiate the originals from the fakes?
Price? If the shop owner takes the fake ones & prices them like the originals, how would we know?
The fakes also seem to have all the markings of the original ones. How do you differentiate them?

From what I knew is .

Original got made in where
Ori stick noted
Ori box packing
Ori user manual

Fake rim you nothing can be find it is where is made from.

ori wheels wont "solve" ur pothole problem.... ori wheels can still break from potholes...ive known a number of ori wheels breaking due to potholes.

+1

fake wheels are fine for normal daily drive... heck... theyre even ok for occasional track use.

i know a few track kakis who are running on fake wheels and are they are doing fine...


which episode? link me pls.


yeah... as i mentioned above.


originates from thailand... good bang for buck wheels.


who says not recommended? a few years back, quite a number of Japan GT cars were running on SSR Type C wheels... saw them up close and personal in SIC....nowadays i dunno wat they running already since i havent seen a japan GT car in years as im not bothered to follow anymore.


as for the video.... track use puts a really heavy load on wheels, continuously...more than ur normal daily driving... any wheel will have a chance of breaking when the wheel sees alot of track time... especially if fitted with semi slicks or slick tires....the amount of g-force the wheel n spokes have to withstand is very high....and its even worse when the car climbs over the kerbs on the track... combine all that with the constant high heat from accelerating and braking the wheels have to endure.. and thats what u get.

ive seen a number of wheels braking at the spokes like that... mostly from the internet... but in almost all cases.. its due to track use... combined with semi slicks....1 or 2 from accidents... none from pothole.




as for me... im currently running on a used old set of 5Zigen FN01R-C wheels...ori

previously was on Rota Auto X... and i mean the original Rota (which i imported in myself).. not the rota fakies that are being sold everywhere these days

This post has been edited by mADmAN: May 2 2013, 01:54 PM

im planning to get that 5.6kg fake rays replica just for the weight alone as second set of track/"special use" wheels. lighter than my original advanti ler so sad

get the advanti ultralight series la... 4.9kg for 15x6.5

tarak for pcd 114.3, why else i got these heavier kenta?

4x114.3? go get used ori wheels la... that PCD is cheap compared to the same wheel with 4x100... RM1k thereabouts can get old shcool ori wheels if u look hard enough

From 114.3 same as mine, really don't have much choice, even for used rim.

Did you consider for Lenso rim, I think these is lighter also.

the old school ones are around the advanti weight, or some even heavier >.>

no lighter 114.3 from lenso lol

convert to GSR or MIVEC brakes la... can get a brake upgrade as well as more rim choices hehehehe

haha so far satisfied with the braking, 60whp only, no need to ganas brakes

If really wanna lighter, the only SSRtype c.

15x6.5jj at 3.9kg
16x7jj at 4.99kg
17x7jj at 6kg.

About this fake ideology thingy, not the rim itself. They pimped a Civic in a very Ah Beng style. Fake turbo, fake Brembo 'calipers', fake blow-off valve, fake racing seat, etc.

I will only go for original rims when I can afford 200k above cars..

Lol...

sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, since u guys are talking about rims, i wanna ask if any recommended shop that sell 16' lightweight rim 5x114 ? thx

http://www.mudah.my/New+16+inch+VR+Te37+de...2482.htm?last=1

Fake is still ok for those with less budget, especially those made in Taiwan. I've used fake Taiwan rims for >10yrs before and none of them got cracked or dented or imbalanced, and I was using them in Jakarta where the roads are even much worse than here!

If got a bit more budget then can think of used original Japan rims.
If got deep pockets, then go for new forged ultra light Japan rims!
But like many said above, even original ones also can still crack or dent. It all depends on how you use them.

you need OZ rim more than japan made.. cause OZ is bullet proof..

Yeah especially those rally wheels! But they're a bit heavier than Japan rims.
I'm now using Japan forged rims and pretty happy with it. Weigh only about 6kg for 17x7.5 (fr), and 7kg for 17x8.5 (rr), so pretty lightweight.

if compare to mine OZ Crono hit 17x7jj for each piece is 8.2kg, but feels really solid cast and worry free for my ride too

if got chance i am still will consider for enkei all two 17x7jj at 6.5kg each.

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 2 2013, 11:27 PM

For your Sentra, I suggest not to go more than 16'. But your fake Enkei now already good enough la, looks nice already what.

Ha ha..nice is nice but still is fake rim.

Will be look at SSR type C, but don't have 114.3 PCD for brand new.
For 15x6.5jj at 3.9kg only... That is my dream also...
For available stock at Subang E.D tyre they have 16x7jj only. 16 inch also not bad at 4.99kg each rim.

Better pick-up to be win more more..

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 2 2013, 11:48 PM

He he just update and bought 2nd hand by last Saturday.

Now to be decide for respray color.

ori?

magnesium blue

rim not always the more light weight the better
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=479110

ori rim also doesnt mean pothole proof, one pro told me , if u want your rim be safe from pothole, not only your rim have to be strong, but also depend on the tyre size you chosen.the best is keep your wall more than 100 height ( let say 215width 50 profile tyre, 215*0.50=107.50) ,then you are good to go.

This post has been edited by nzh0920: May 6 2013, 01:05 PM

The only time I will buy a set of 7-10k original rims is when I became very interested with track days. lol

No offense but imo the idea of using such expensive rims for daily (pothole)road driving sounds stupid to me.

i see at rim shop..
they sell rim Rota Grid Racing TE37 15x8jj Offset 30 front and back..wth..
who already use this wide rim?

slow r we? damn alot of ppl using 15x8 already la...

btw, where did u see this particular wheel with this offset?

It's the latest trend now lol, oversized rims, stretching tyres

I think most Rota 8JJ rims is +30 offset.
9JJ is usually +25

This post has been edited by awyongcarl: May 6 2013, 09:54 PM

Hellafail crowd like it
195/50/15 stretch to 8JJ with a lot of negative camber

Guys , need some advice from the pros . Anywhere u guys know in KL/Selangor can order ori Kranze rim ? Been 2 a few shops and they only have replicas or not selling . Also , is Exe Pegasus consider a replica maker or a brand on it's own , with quality built ? Thanks

naah..most r +20....if got +30 last time I would have bought it already instead of my current 5zigen wheels 15x7 +33

some of the 15x8 are even et0

Too wide will made your car look more ugly..

Ya it is ori just for 3.9kg per each rim

Hahaha really ah
Cause the tyre shop I know carries mostly +25 and +30

I want the 15x8 for track use...not for looks or hellaflush

but I actually want 15x8 +35.....perfect fitment for my car...only prob is...not many come in those....n ori only

damn good information from the thread you linked

but eh my car is under 100whp, so i think lower rigidity in favor of weight shouldn't be too much of a problem

Maybe you can consider for Te37

Volk TE37
Forged
15x8
5.2kg

Using Thailand's Wolfrace Assassin rims here...

Got it cheap and slammed into pothholes twice before... Thought it's done for but surprisingly still okay when I checked when doing the tyre change.

naah...already happy with my 5zigen

if I change to 15x8...ill target the enkei pf01...

RP-01 max 7jj

Enkei RPO-1
Cast
15x7
6.5kg

You are pretty much limited to Hankook RS3 and Federal 595 RSR for that sizing
225/50/15

hehehe, diff people diff priority, but for malaysia road condition i care about strength of the rim more.

one thing i like about the ori rim is the finishing of the ori rim, very nice.
my ex rim



now looking for another set rays monoblock

Very nice and expensive rims!

How bout TE37 or rota?

y u giving me RP? go read again properly wat model i posted


nope... there are lots of people (not in this country though) running 15x8 with 205/50 tires for track days and theyre running fine...the tire is not so stretched....quite squarish


either way... i wouldnt mind the RSR coz thats wat im using now (205/50) and i definitely wouldnt mind the RS3

Oops sorry no info spec for enkei PF.
What I can find is here only

http://m.mudah.my/view?sp=1&q=Enkei+PF01&c...&ad_id=19014491

huh??? couldnt find?? how come u couldnt find man???

this has been out for ages

http://www.enkei.com/pf01.shtml#

its even the first result in google search for "enkei pf01"

Ok ok

Found one in mudah :
http://m.mudah.my/view?sp=1&q=Enkei+PF01&c...&ad_id=20707151

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 7 2013, 02:03 PM

saw that long time ago from ah kit

15x8 +35 mmg dun have sell here.. must special order...

but i do love these wheels... not too expensive but with awesome fitment and ridiculous amounts of caliper clearance even for BBKs

Just told u about side order...

From ah kit he is the self imported.

Even I wanna do place my order for SSR type C 114.3 for 15 inch he also not bother me.

For the other is japanrim malayisa also not news from them.

That why I bought 2nd hand for SSR type C recently.

was considering ce28n earlier, but then told by friends, many his kaki using on skyline crack and dent easily. he suggested go for te37 instead, but then te37 abit expensive for 17 around 4500+- used set, and too common and lotsa replicas. so now considering get some prodrive forged rims by rays engineering too. around the same level with te37, but cheaper by 20 to 30%

Poor Network

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 7 2013, 05:42 PM

Del

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 7 2013, 05:41 PM

Skyline too heavy and hardcore drive.
Maybe they can consider for enkei or OZ rims.

For te37 & ce28n just suitable for daily car.

Even my sylphy also stick with OZ.

But for my sentra the only choice for SSR type C.
Due to eating petrol per km 0.23c = 8.26/L now.
The solution for go lighter weight rims.

er, skyline around 1.4 ton only, my car also around 1.3ton like that,
its not mainly because of the weight , its really depend on how u drive and what profile tyre u use. if low profile + not avoid pot hole at all then, good luck to you, even ori rim also dent.
like my fren driving inspira who using 18 inch enkei rs05 with 225/40 tyre, 2 rim dent.

40mm profile too slim already. The suitable size for inspira = R17/45mm just nice.

1.4 ton sound like driving Preve

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 7 2013, 05:55 PM

225/40.

the 40 is not mm....its percentage of the width...meaning 40% of 225

This is what I found :

The "215" is the section width in milimeters (sidewall to sidewall, NOT the width of the tread).

The "45" is the aspect ratio or the height of the tire measured from bead to the top of the tread expressed as a percentage of the section widith, ie: 45% of 215mm.

"R" means radial construction

"17" is of course the wheel diameter.

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 8 2013, 08:37 AM

The brand like advanti , lenso , oz x-line , sparco , enkei tuning etc price are affordable , good quality , durable
Dont forget these rim pass tuv , jwl via test
Not like cheap replica rim which never do any test b4 selling ( the price so cheap still can test) even thought the is the same logo on replicas
Any the replica rim in the market ald very less from taiwan
JUst to let u all know good taiwan rim not cheap at all that's y many of them no longer bringing In....market spoil by china rim

I have to agree on this. All these fake rims flooding the market is the main reason why we do not see originals here. If the originals can't be sold, they won't even get a chance to be competitively priced at all. Combined with most Malaysians' mentalities to not save up for the real thing makes conditions siding the knockoffs...

Not everyone can afford a new set of rims that costs 7-10k, and if the road condition in Malaysia is somewhat better, then perhaps it would actually make sense or justifiable to buy original rims. I really wouldn't want to take a risk on Malaysia's road.

Most people would rather spend RM1-2k to buy replicas for daily usage, and when shit happens to their rims, they can get it replaced with another new set of replicas easily because its so cheap.

I see your point, but if brands like Lenso, Enkei Tuning and Advanti can sell their rims at much cheaper prices compared to their Japanese counterparts and yet obtain quality certifications unlike those China replicas, prices would go down due to competition and everyone benefits from it entirely. It's the replicas that are undercutting the business, and partly causing those original rims to be so out of reach.

It's that bad to the point when someone discusses a rim model, it is immediately assumed replica unless the word Japan or original precedes it. It's commonplace now.

Regarding on Replicas Rim from tyre shop they no bother or trade-in.

Unless you sell for friend.. For original rim is non-Japan they can accepted for trade-in, even much heavier.

So due to 2nd hand value the "Used" Japan rim still much expansive then new replicas rim.

For long term wise : replica rim are cheap but everyone can afford it and still in the big aftermarkets.

For my experience used on Taiwan rim and not the china made.
For the quality wise so so once you hits on pothole and dent only, but won't be easily cracked.

But dunno for china made quality...
Some tyre shop told me from china replica can be easily crack on center spoked.

From my list.
Once is using the ori rim from come with purchase car.
The other is buy the Used rim or get ori from Japan or Italy made, pothole is can't avoid cause we life with pothole anywhere.

But decent markets all those looking for more lighter weight design and more good.

What can do? BBB = buy buy buy

This post has been edited by kimsim: May 9 2013, 06:36 AM

hi, noob here and i have few question
1) how to define fake/imitation/replica rim?
2) all made in taiwan n china considered fake/imitation?
3) Lenso made in Thai and Advanti made in Msia considered original and good enough?
4) if 3) considered original, how to differentiate whether itz original made in Thai & Msia or replica which is made in Taiwan/China?

thank you.

How to check?

The word made in : is very important to that rims, original sticker does not mean is original.

"Made in" Japan, Taiwan, italy, Thai, M'sia all = original.

Label : Taiwan, Japan or empty = Fake.
Fake also got from china & Taiwan.

Just buy got come with original box package and user manual with sticker one = 100% real original rims.