Finally home from COSE....

Gotta say... DISAPPOINTED!!!!

The brake still got sound.. they say they only service it...

Can hear slight sound, not as loud as last time but still there... I tot of turning back to complain but too tired.. sigh...

I think I'll wait for few weeks till it loud again then go FUCUK THEM!!!

Janganlah fikir yang bukan bukan

I didnt hint anything also

waiting at COSE almost full 2 day..
and they still not resolve your problem?

This post has been edited by akuinsan: May 3 2013, 04:59 PM

Your skills, are not good enough.

No laa...

Yesterday another car...

Today my own car... brake got sound... Sat there almost whole day but only reduce the sound...
about 1 month i think will be loud again~

This time want to go buttseck them

There are three distinct sections of the drivetrain in a manual tranny car:

1. Engine to clutch

2. Clutch to lay shaft of gearbox

3. Output shaft of gearbox (driven by lay shaft) to driving wheels

Sections 2 and 3 are linked via the dog clutches (nothing to do with the main clutch controlled by your left pedal) of each gear. So when you are sitting parked with the engine idling in neutral, the engine is driving sections 1 & 2 but not 3, because none of the dog clutches are engaged. Then when you step on the clutch, section 2 will continue to spin under its own momentum until friction slows it down (or if you attempt to shift into any gear). Then only section 1 will be spinning.

The whole idea of LC2K is to synchronise section 2 with the speed of section 3 to enable easier shifting and preventing wear and tear on the synchros. I'll use shifting from 5th to 3rd as an example.

Single Clutch steps: You're driving in 5th gear, and you want to downshift to third.

1. Release throttle and step on the clutch. This disengages section 1 from section 2 and 3.

2. Move the lever from 5th to neutral. Disengaging gear when the clutch is disengaged is easy and doesn't cause wear to the gearbox.

3. Shift from neutral to 3rd. When you attempt to shift into 3rd gear, the speed between the 3rd gear + output shaft (section 3) and the lay shaft (section 2, spinning under its own momentum, because the clutch is disengaged) is different, so the dog clutches won't engage. That's where the synchros come in. As you push the gear lever into 3rd, the synchros engage gradually, and cause section 2 to spin faster until it matches the speed of the section 3, then only can you engage the 3rd gear's dog clutch.

4. But now section 1 is slower than sections 2 and 3 (spinning together, because you've already engaged 3rd), because you've released the throttle so you need to step on the accelerator, rev match and...

5. Release clutch for a smooth gear change.

Compare this with LC2K:

1. Release throttle and step on the clutch.

2. Move the lever from 5th to neutral.

3. Here's the difference. Release the clutch, so that sections 1 and 2 are engaged and spinning together. As you are in neutral, section 3 is still spinning independently from sections 1 & 2.

4. Rev match so that the speed of sections 1 and 2 and matches with section 3.

5. Now all three sections are spinning at the same speed. Step on the clutch, this disconnects sections 1 & 2. Because sections 2 & 3 are now matched and synchronised, it's easy to move the gear lever into 3rd, there won't be much resistance as the synchros don't have to spin up section 2 as in step 3 in the single clutch shift.

6. The instant the 3rd gear's dog clutch is engaged, release the clutch.

There may be an extra step involved but this downshift (if done correctly) will be noticeably smoother than a single clutch downshift and you've saved wear and tear on your synchros.

Have you ever experienced difficulty engaging gears even though your clutch is pushed all the way to the floor? That's why you need LC2K. It's not strictly necessary in a gearbox with synchros, but it's good for the gearbox and makes driving a bit more enjoyable, even more so if your rev match in step 4 is done via heel and toe.

If I understand correctly, the second de-clutch is to spin the clutch and layshaft up to match the driveshaft right?

This post has been edited by dares: May 3 2013, 05:41 PM

That's done AFTER first de-clutch, before the second de-clutch, while in neutral. The second de-clutch is merely to engage the 3rd gear's dog clutch, in fact I suspect that if step 4 is done perfectly you wouldn't even need to step on the clutch to shift into 3rd gear. Though I'm not brave enough to try clutchless shifting

Anyway, I think the gist of it is:

Single clutch downshift - engine rev match done manually via throttle, internal gearbox rev match (between sections 1 and 2) done separately via synchros

LC2K downshift - both engine rev match AND internal gearbox rev match done manually, together

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 3 2013, 05:38 PM

eksiden kecik



langgar vanette putih... but that fellar blur blur go lari. so i pun lari.

those are just chipped paint from the vanette.

replace sticker this weekend. DIY

V12K buttsex orang.

Oops sorry, I got konfius.

press clutch -> shift into neutral -> release clutch -> rev to spin flywheel, clutch and layshaft to match driveshaft -> press clutch again -> shift into gear -> release clutch

I was thinking the same thing, if "synced" precisely you won't even have to clutch the second time

Korek

lul

lols.....

mana saya tau,not i do also,lol..

Omg, so big the gt wing. Wana do like him.


U go do mah know lo, lolx

there is many ways to improve FC instead change to lighter rim

the primary key of the success FC efficiency and saving is your right foot

This post has been edited by eqmal197: May 3 2013, 07:49 PM

No la, Bro...
Not by changing rims...
Or even training one's right foot...

Best solution?
Juz Don't drive a Gaga!! Haha!

ps. No offence intented...

This post has been edited by zeone: May 3 2013, 08:08 PM

Juz 2add further...

1. Changing 2lighter rims :
a. How much lighter can rims go?
b. Wat is the cost of changing 2such lighter rims?
c. Wat abt need also 2change tires? Cos only larger diam rims are available.
Wt of larger sized tyres? Friction increase resulting in decrease of minimal FC gains?

Now juz ponder?
With all that xtra expenses, how much xtra fuel wld yu hv been able 2afford 2pay4 with that sum of $$$ 2b spent?

1. Control of right foot.
Wld yu b able 2truly enjoy driving yr Gaga if yu had 2keep on exercising all that ctrl?

IINM there are other makes of cars that wld b able 2give one much better FC than the Gaga...w/o changing rims nor controlling the right foot...

Or am I wrong?

My take?
The Gaga is yrs oledi...
Yu shld hv known abt its FC...
Yu cld not hv chosen the Gaga 4its great FC, rite?
Enjoy it...

This post has been edited by zeone: May 3 2013, 08:33 PM

Selangor declared Monday Public Holiday? betul ke?