LCP...I recommend LCP as first mod. IMO, this plug and play mod is an essential requirement to minimize the major weakness of PE.

Coz changing the engine is not worth it.....LCP only remedy part of the engine weakness, it does not "strengthen" the low end torque to "powerful" level, just pushing it up to "acceptable" level. Even then my City still beat the hell up of it in the low end torque without even trying hard.

So Timbuktu it goes... (again on second note, my well taken care of PE still deemed ok for its price, not much major problem.....YET (this keyword is the reason why KKW switching vehicle only at 3 years). It does not generate confidence on the long term "problem free" since lots of parts they used are pretty cheapskate feel...again at this price.

Oh....I'm still sceptical abt ALL other mods, even drop in filter. Only LCP.......but then again that is the only mod I install.....besides the stiff ring.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Apr 30 2013, 01:21 PM

Vibration is increased, engine noise also especially acceleration. If you're driving an auto tranny, the low end torque improvement coupled with much faster gear change increased the low end torque to tolerable level (meaning gaga and turtle won't be able to jumped your queue anymore if you accelerate to close the gap). Massive increased satisfaction level. Reach destination faster to boot...

Itu elf still SL rated. Nowadays we've progressed to SN rated liao although lots still using SM rated that has not much difference in current engine.

SN rated lube has at least the minimum following improvement

Improved phosphorous retention (ZDP) to enable emission system durability while maintaining engine protection
-> No change in engine wear protection but reduced ZDP might have a negative effect on old engine tech, so old nissan sunny (not the new ones)....maybe not suitable). Reduction of ZDP is good for the durability of our catcon......that is if you still have one.

Increased levels of organic/inorganic Friction Modifiers to meet improved fuel economy and fuel economy retention.
-> Supposedly better FC but that should be very minor as the major FC consumption level normally does not come from here.

Enhanced emulsion and rust protection for Flex Fuel Vehicle specifically those that run on ethanol based fuel (E85)
-> No idea is this actually affect us or not.

Greater seal compatibility to help ensure seal longevity and prevent oil leakage in older vehicles, as demonstrated by a new seal test specifically developed for GF-5
-> Ok should help but then again, how many times you will kena once on this.

Increased sludge protection and piston cleaniness
-> Better cleaning addictives kuah....so minyak more hitam faster after that. Sludge retention in the lube should be better.


DO NOTE : Not all SN and SM rated lubes are created equal. There are some good SM rated lubes that far exceeded their SM rating that can trumped SN rated lubes. SN rated lubes just provided at least the minimum assurance that its SN rated lube achieve AT LEAST the minimum requirement as listed in SN categories.

So conclusion : we're not sure how good is this "outdated rated" Elf moly when compared with the newest SN rated lubes that has been enhanced in most aspect. The elf moly available in Malaysia seems to be targeted at the older cars like wira thus you noticed the 50 viscosity. Still SL...

Normally such rebate straight deduct from total car price after you finalized all payments and agreement when you collect your car. I have not encountered any new car dealers that separately pay you back the rebate.

PE weaker low end torque coupled with heavy body means no matter how light footed you are, FC is never going to be satisfactory. Since its optimal torque comes during mid-range, constant mid-speed run (abt 100-110km/h) actually provides better FC vs the standard 80-90km/h of other car makes.

And most importantly, if really do all those mods for FC saving......I don't think you can break even on the $$$ spend for those mods vs the miniscule improvement in FC if even that.

Anyway, improvement for on pickup, as most guys knows here, I'm an LCP guy only. Only LCP light mod needed to improve that. Cons, louder engine noise and slight vibration. Pro much better low and mid end pickup but weaker high end strength (abt 150km/h above kuah). Minimized throttle lag. FC tarak save but you get much faster gear change (esp for auto tranny) and pickup for the same FC used.

Believe me, I complained heaven and earth abt the increased noise and vibration......but then the pickup comes in....now my PE cannot live without LCP. I may as well sell the car without LCP increased low end torque.

I also have a VS and GC set installed by EricTeoh. So as Jason mentioned, really did not notice engine power drop anymore when air-cond comes on (although definitely there is a power drop in engine when compressor turns on as all cars are not immune to it.

Other types of mods, all increased power and will not save FC. On contrary, you would see FC goes up due to increase "strength" and harder pedalling. PE was served best on FC at abt 100-110km/h vs the standard 80-90km/h for all other cars.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 8 2013, 09:03 AM

Oii.....gua now bankrupt liao lar. You see, I plan ahead 2 years ago, predicting I'm going brankrupt this year onwards....that's why I'm forced to buy proton.

Most young chaps don't plan ahead....so when they betul betul bankrupt, they commit suicide. Gua punya planned bankrupt got set aside sufficient living expenses for kids, shift house and transport......but no money kiu kai or kau loi already. But then again, I never kiu kai or even "extra" kau loi activity before, so no loss there....

Have to sacrifice buying my planned PS3 console tho......and last month without solid reason, just spend 2K for a 32gb ipad 4 for my kid (ya, I used that excuse for her to surf net for homework assignment, since she has no access to my laptop, in reality I'm hogging it for avernum rpg and lots of j-comic reading)

.....siao liao....now have to plan budget for full price s4 (2nd batch after 1st batch fixed issues) coz my wife wanted my 1.5 years old S2 liao to replace here old nokia phone. Bankrupt plus owe more money

All bankrupt plan also kaput.....I see my plan to change to new improved FL Civic in a couple of years later goes up in flame...I guess si proton going to stay with me for years....until it goes kaput, wonder how long it gonna take. My city lasted me 8 years now and still goes strong and less rattling than the darn 2 years old car.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 8 2013, 09:50 AM

I last time know a boss driving a darn saga everyday.......but owned a fleet of buses, and at least a RM3 million property excluding his house.

Oh his t shirt he wore very days got holes wan....

Unfortunately it is still true that the library for apps designed specifically for tablet size far exceeded that of ipad. Way more ipad based games than android tablets.

So for phone I would go android, but for tablet, although with superb improvement on android platform, the apps customized for tablet range is still superbly lacking. Being in IT line, I would still recommend, android-based phone for smartphone but tablet definitely still belongs to iPad as of now.

Have to keep my face in IT line, keep up to date.....and bankrupt as well. Ini poor fag borrow money to buy phone one...no interest added...hahaha....

Change your EO at around 1K, don't drag further due to the metal shaving but don't shorten it either coz most metal shaving still happens before 1K before it "blend in". So let it be until 1K then tukar to semi EO. Don't wait till 6K mileages (lots of ppl do coz they calc 1k eo change +5K mileage). Change it at 5K to throw out the remaining residue of shavings that should still occur up to 5K. After that, use semi EO again. Change at 10K mileage. Try not to use FS before 10K coz its smoother lubrication actually have a slightly negative impact for long term performance (due to parts requires a bit more rubbing between each others to fit each others nooks and holes or whatever). After 10K, use whatever you want.

I concur with mengsuan on driving normally. Driving too careful is not good.

I jaga kereta very well one as my cars all lasted for years while maintaining performance almost as good as new even after 7-10 years. I prefer soft break in tho. Drive no more than 110km/h within 1K mileage. Within 5K mileage, try to maintain no more than 120km/h although with PE excelling in highway run, very hard to do. So for you, just keep the first 2K-3K within 110km/h. This is too allow new parts to become "veteran". Hard breakin is not my thing, so don't know what effect since I don't do hard driving at 160km/h. But at 100-140km/h this method would enable has good and balanced performance after years and years.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 9 2013, 08:47 AM

Ya, h-line interior seems to be a class above other lines although it was not mentioned officially anywhere. However rattling still occurs. Rubber still harden, same material used but more paddings on the doors, boot, etc to increase sound insulation. The syn leather seats feels totally different from other lines. I'm so glad I got H-line for PE coz I will regret getting m-line with its inferior brakes, insulation, etc for only RM5K less.

Although PETRONAS EO is inferior to other brands like Caltex Havoline semi, its actually ok to use. More vibration, less power but ok. I myself used PETRONAS EO up to 20K mileage coz got FOC EO promotion with I bought H-Line car then, up to 20K service. No problem, feels ok.......that is until I change to Havoline semi only realise, engine becomes muted, less vibration, slightly smoother acceleration (might be placebo at that)...

Note that nowadays, proton sc especially Edar, require use of their EO up until warranty expire, at least 2 years. I switch my EO on 25K mileage. Now near 40K mileage at hit 2 years this month. No issue unless you buy fake oil (that is one of key reason SC insist on own oil, coz they don't know your source of EO). Havoline 100% no fake if buy from Caltex petrol station. If you really takut warranty, can use PETRONAS EO until warranty expire. If not.....so far I have NOT hear any warranty TRULY voided due to engine oil unless your engine oil proven to be fake. If not can always argue on case to case basis.

Ya lor, never use 20w50, not good for our engine, too thick, FC increased dramatically. 10W40 is just right.

If you have CVT (which PE does not), then yes, shorten the standard tranny oil change by half to maintained superbly clean and lasting tranny. However our tranny standard one, quite lasting, less problem, 20K change is just right. Unless you betul betul hantam your car, run high speed and aggressive driving a lot, then I would suggest 10K mileage change.

To maintain warranty, even if using outside eo, you have to stick with Proton SC at all times. EO only "possibly" void warranty on engine but other warranties like steering, trim, iafm, radio, air-cond, all still under warranties. Once proven service outside, all warranty void unless the SC guys covers for you.

I got a ex-Honda mechanic nearby, clean one. That's why all my current Hondas send to him for servicing. Wash hand after every service before going into your car. Only problem, not really cheap but then reasonable lar. The few outside mechanic having the honda software to reset my Hondas ECU. Have full original Honda servicing parts.

Sometimes I rather pay a bit more than to have a oily hands and clothed mechanic sit in my car. This mechanic here has some SC level equipment including hydraulic lifter and those oil container to store dirty engine oil. Like it, clean.

Only problem with him now is he might not have the complete sets of original parts for PE servicing......saw his ATF still using the old stock Proton one, not the new XP. So have to go back SC to buy parts since I don't have any source for original Proton parts. Anyone can recommend original part shop for PE kah in Klang?

Do watch out if you buy FS from Proton SC. MAKE SURE its 10W40. Most of them sell 15W50 or 10W50 or something. Just make sure its weighted 40 for FS.

Personally I never like using FS for 10K mileage, 7-8K at most unless its a much higher end car will bigger oil tank capacity and much efficient engine and filteration. EO boleh tahan but I suspect the our oil filter will be pushed to the limit, not good for filteration if you keep your car for long term. But then most ppl who used FS do, so far nothing happen yet. But comes 100k~200k mileage....

For semi, try no to stretch it at all. If possible 5-6K at most. The base stock of semi is almost the same as mineral with added "synthetic" components. Probably a bit cleaner than mineral but it IS NOT the high grade refined based stock that FS uses. So treat your semi as mineral when it comes to service interval if you want to keep your engine clean maintain long term performance.

Of course go ppl can go semi or mineral for 15K, no problem.....your luck and risk tho...

You can eat your fruit fresh and ensure vitamins are there or you can wait till it dried up outside.....eat no problem but the risk is very much higher that its contaminated and might have bacteria that can cause havoc within your body. Same with engine oil on cars. Change it out before performance start to degrade if you can afford it, if not change it after performance degraded but risk of negative after-effect is always higher on the latter case.

Don't know abt you guys but practically ALL engine oil EXPERTS and ALL relevant articles I read on engine oil and flushing forbade engine flushing that might damage engine when "dislodge" sludge or dirt actually CLOGs up all pathway in your engine that not only makes matter worse, it might even kaput the engine if its dirty enuf.

If dirt is not much and small, yes it might work but then again the risk is even much higher for older cars with lots or lodge particles. Use EO flush only as last resort to resolve a critical engine issue upon a mechanic recommendation (not those capalong mechanic just selling a service purely to earn a buck without considering after effect).

Of course, if you are ones who like to dismantle engines and rebuild them, you're welcome to use them anytime. No risk.

If you read the post by mengsuan, you would have known our thermostat is partially for show only. Point A for cold start, the standard Point B for normal temperature is there regardless of the actual temperature reading. Even if exceed 90, it will still stay at Point B. Then when overheat, jump straight to Point C.

It is similar to those car with a single light for temperature. Green means ok, then Red means overheat liao, no seeing rising temperature like the other car makes. One way to go, change to the custom-made thermostat that Mengsuan uses.