CBU Tata from India...

Although same cc, do note current forte is using 6 speed tranny. Our tranny punya power loss is tremendous. Mana tau that forte outrunning you is the highest spec wan...using 2.0 cc ler...you try run lar vs 2.0cc somemore 6 speed tranny and much less power loss.

Lu punya preve bukan turbo. Just a normal campro with iafm. Not even cps...sure kena smoke...

If CFE, I doubt the car can lose to Forte....I especially the underpowered 1.6 Forte version. So it must be the driver issue.....no matter how powerful a car can be, when the driver drive like a turtle, its still turtle speed....even if the car was rocket boosted...

Hiber Optic using ceramic tint. Ceramic tint works way more effectively when living near sea area where its ceramic components are very resistant to water vapour damage. However if use anywhere else, its effectiveness is not as good as other hi-spec tint.

Do you the reason why the guidelines of EO is at abt 6 month limit or 5/10K whichever comes first.

Oxidization of oil that turned the oil acidic either true combustion, moisture, contamination and eventually the breakdown of oil overtime. The acidic buildup will damage various components in engine, ie piston, etc.

The longer its stored in the engine used or unused, the more oxidization occur, more acid buildup, higher risk of engine damage or at the least performance reduction. Even overhaul also won't save the car if continuously drag on for years unless you rebuild your engine.

Using FS will prolong oxidization due to several factor, the more refined the quality of oil, less oxidization effect, The better addictive used in FS also help slow down the effect of oxidization especially prolonging oil breakdown and contamination. Thus true FS such as ether and PAO are very resistance to oxidization due to non contaminated true man-made lube. The contaminants in mineral oil fared the worst, practically same with semi but FS with its refined based oil with less natural contaminant and better addictive drags out the acid buildup.

Thus I sometimes wait till max near 7 months before I change it out, even if only at 3-4K mileage on FS. Moisture is one the culprit for those opened oil can. 6 months limit in opened but resealed bottle where some oxidization might occur. Another 6 months MAX in engine that makes up 1 year in total for a good quality FS (with good addictive). If used in engine from beginning, I figure the added buildup from combustion, external contamination and wearing out of oil speed up the process a lot, thus 6-7 month max.

Would like to add.....this time frame only apply to humid, hot and dusty weather in our country. Oil normally do no oxidize at ambient temperature (not hot nor cold) without moisture in which our humid are has lots of it...along with dust (contaminants) and hot weather and rain moisture that promote what I've written abt.

Got too much time at hand now.....so bullshit a bit...

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 20 2013, 10:47 AM

Oh don't you know, its a trademark of Potong. All new potong cars must have it, one way or another. Otherwise, it cannot be call potong...

IMO, the default stock pressure of 210kpa front / 190 kpa rear is a bit underpressure. Jalan a week or so, it will drop further below the optimal level. Not very good for the weak stock FC. Personally I like pumping 20-25kpa more that is 230-235 kpa front / 210-215 kpa rear, cold pressure.

I have my own tyre gauge and measure the pressure before car move in the morning, then go petrol station, check the gauge again and note the difference. If the difference is 10kpa from earlier cold measurement, I pump 240-245kpa, so when it drop to cold pressure next day, it will stay at the 230-245kpa range.

Better FC and lighter steering but no so great on rough road but have longer interval in between air refill.

Actually I've been using Shell RON 95 (company card) since I bought the car. Occassional hit Esso when card limit reached. Frankly I did not find any noticeable difference between acceleration and smoothness between Shell and Esso. What I do notice is the FC seems to improved a bit when using Esso.

Becoz the govt REALLY no $$$ liao. Reducing price of RON95 now is not sustainable anymore with the government treasury condition.

National Debt is ultra high at 55% of GDP, whatever balance they have, they go buy a pencil for RM200, a chair for RM5000 and a mariner binocular that cost RM2700 but bought by government for RM50000 a piece. Where the difference goes, EVERYONE have figured out liao but government say staff blur make mistake, ya right, paying the price of a BMW for a proton, staff so blur....

Now they giving RM1500 to 1BRIM but since no money to pay, they gonna use GST to get back RM3000 from each person they gave RM1500 to. With the govt ultra low on $$$, don't expect any price reduction on mass production cars. Tax incomes from sales of cars are quite substantial and desperately needed by our cash strap government now. With GST implemented, expect tyre price to goes up, food to goes up, inflation to goes up and I guess the only thing not going up is our income.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 23 2013, 10:44 AM

That is becoz its Iridium Power range meant for performance, not for lasting. Iridium Tough is the one that you want for lasting. Iridium Power has the same mileage as our normal plug but probably could go 30K mileage for optimal performance. Should change after that. Extending the usage is like using those bald tyres, can still use, can still run but the risk of damage, accident, etc increase exponentially.

His abah's car buying philosophy is "oh, it can still move, price cheap, ok".

With his father's car maintenance philosophy, trusting him to get a trouble free car is a miracle and 100% depends on luck but then he has no choice since his abah is his pay master. Free car (for td) is better than no car.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 29 2013, 09:03 AM

Aish.....just replaced my wiper with PIAA Radix Silicon wiper at RM200....then check out web....only RM140 at kakimotor. What's more I bought another pair for my City at RM190, also RM140 at kakimotor. Total difference is RM120. Sudden splurge moment at my usual accs shop (normally fair price but I guess these items, they really go wild on pricing)...really regret but not on the quality of wiper tho...

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 29 2013, 01:27 PM

My Cities has been on aerotwin for last few change. Not bad but not that lasting under the sun at all times. My last sets are Belgium made, not China made. Lets see if this PIAA thingy can last that long without spoiling. Supposed to coat the windscreen with natural water repellent coating.

This PIAA RADIX looks just like normal wiper with the wording PIAA at the bottom without color. So no fear of kena stolen unlike those higher range and cool looking ones.

Fubar ini bisexual...

On windscreen replacement issue, replacing it at windscreen specialist like Dr. Cermin, etc is the best bet on workmanship and material used.

These guys specialize in installing/repairing windscreen, so usually use the most effective glue and have efficient workmanship. Gua punya City got cracked on 4th year (I think), replaced at Dr. Cermin. Efficient workmanship and fast too. Now on its 8th year.

On PIAA silicon wipers, they are most vulnerable to kena stolen. So if looks is not big concern, get the normal looking PIAA radix model. Would not know its PIAA coz even the word PIAA is located on the bottom side and not coloured and it looks like normal wiper. However the silicon is PIAA, can last for years (that's why I'm told anyway).

Damn geram after looking at those price, kena chop exhorbitantly at RM60 per set with a setback of extra RM110. At least now I know what price and where to go for PIAA next time.

Ah.....that's new knowledge to me.

Use rain-x for rear and side windscreens. View will be much clearer than without.

Shit....

Just now on highway, my car suddenly jerk while driving. The mileage odometer stop running, gear indicator become -, speedometer become 0, engine power reduce where it needed higher rev to move. Drive back home. Stop engine and restart still the same.
Shifting gear will jerk no matter at what range.

Can still drive, only higher rev. All indicators still not working as above.

Anyone encounter this? Any idea?

My warranty expired today or tomorrow. SC all closed liao and holiday (Agong birthday) tomorrow and possibly on Monday (they replaced Sat). Called i-Care to check if warranty can still work just after expiry. Say ok but really have to check with SC when I send in on Tuesday. (I already have leave on Monday.....tot can emergency go SC, darn suey.