Feels like talking about me already Recently my FC ady went fly kite Especially after throttle response REPAIRED Too ganjeong every time green light also sky rocket

10w30 ma same... gib up FC liao la my GaGa. May be cause of my 15" rim oso

Try to do that to your new GaGa next time it will bore a bigger hole on your wallet

coolkws = ipork
dared = ipork
vlackz = ipork

All Ipork fagz have degilz parentz

Black smoke racing 2.5 bars on Garrett GT42

thanks

Sell him RM160 Last week a funker FL AT interested(kena poisoned by the roadside), so I say usually I sell RM80, now gib diskaun sell RM50. The funker dew me say huai sell so chib?!?! Could have been worth RM160 Tell peepur I diskaun 50% still can sell RM80 no plobrem

Reverse gear, slowly release clutch pedal, tap slightly on the gas pedal. Bem! Sardenly sprint reversed & hit the wall even before the sensor start to beep MCB! Throttle response so fast liao

Acterly hor, the first I saw that foto, I was symphatized on the poor Wajia, why terbalik ady. Coz for a MyBi, that is their norm. Most of the time u see a MyBi, their roof is at the bottom, so on the contrary wise the Wajia looked like terbalik ady in that pictar

so you ate breakfast yesterday, but you slept through the afternoon, evening and night until this morning for almost 20 hours. Do you wake up and eat again despite you have not shit the breakfast you ate yesterday?

They're talking about some 15 years old corolla, if use full syn the engine will start leaking

I have the AC kick in voltage drop sometimes, and it's not because of voltage stabilizer nor grounding issues. It's the godem throttlebody shut too tight, alas RPM dipped below 700, whilst alternator unable to charge at 14.5V became 12.0 or less. At this point, voltage stabilizer only able to offset about 1/2 of alternator performance, which still trying to maintain voltage at about 13.5V. Despite the difference is only from 14.5 dropped to 13.5, but as a human with outstanding suspicious + placebo butt, headlight dim is utterly noticeable(despite compare with car not start with headlights on at 12v - it's actually much dimmer than 13.5V during aircon kicks in with engine running). I can almost confirm you, even change to whatever ranjiao alternator, as long RPM dipped below its optimal charging cycle, your headlights will still dim. Unless you have a backup battery running at the charging capacity 14.5V. That however will cause you another problem. If your backup battery is running at 14.5V, it will be quickly discharged to an radiative equilibrium 12V when the alternator is not charging. Follow up by having a 14.5V backup batter, your alternator should also be upgraded to 200amp in order to charge 2 batteries at the same time. Correct me if I'm wrong. It'll be great if coolkwc can come in and shed some lights

[WTS] Used K&N performance drop in filter for GaGa

This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 11 2013, 07:42 AM

Ular oren @ over sea is currently in play, also someone's dad notice the car got different, unable to shift properly due to chnges in throttle response Funny story, hope the oversea bulker to share story

Ted

No comment bro. I only suggested GaGa to put on engine hook, may be u can try that

raper

For me, analog is sufficient. But I rike Marhaihai's digital panel ontop of steering console love it. I heard he said got warning sumore, which is really useful as most of the time peepur melt their engine bcoz TERomit temp gauge so, if the gauge would alert, that will be very useful.

sg999

As I said earlier, I did not particularly mention why aircon kicks in that reduces current supply. Some may not notice the power drop when a/c kick, powah windoe kick, radiator fan kick, even turn steering also kick. Trust me, all these related to kinetic motors electrical appliance will jeopardize your electric current supply. The reason u have radiator fan kicks is solely bcoz when AC turn on, radiator fan will be simultaneously kick in. And however if radiator already heated up, fan was running then AC compressor kick is negligible bcoz the power has been drawn earlier by the fan already.

Therefore, if u install a 1 farad capacitor to the AC compressor, another 1 farad capacitor on the powersteering pump, another 1 farad to the cabin fuse box, another 1 farad on the battery, you have no light dim in the future. So u prolly ask me, aint that stupid? By having those few farads on the car, not only increase weight & burden the alternator, it can drain the battery when the car is not in use!

My point is, I've measure my charge reading on battery terminal, its dangerously stands at 14.8V. However, measurement in cabin is 14.0V only. Meaning to say, the capacitor(VS) effect is only limited to anything directly connected to the battery terminal(not BRANCH) and headlights is the branch of rear lamp The cheaper way to eleminate headlight dim would be adding a relay wiring to draw direct current from battery to your headlights Not enough charge also nevermind. Your headlights will not dim geh, only drain your battery jek

iska more importantly on the rating,300a ular usually consider overkill jor. However,if budget allowed,why not higher rating? Otheq than that,can search for standards regulation such as BS,AS,MS SIRIM,JIS etc. ISO can be negligeble in this case,as it mostly focus on procedure instead of manufacturing process. Regret to inform,ular oren was NOT regulated. All inspection were done based on visual & butt dyno. Other than inspect the copper core color is golden, rest is the heat absorbance layer is hard enough to prevent the core being snapped, whilst the orange insulator has elasticity to avoid crack. I have personally tested the cables with multi meter with my own finger as ground conductive. From 1 end to the other is 0 resistance,atleast that is within 0.01v capacity error tolerence.

coolkwc if thats the case,meaning ayam adding current to the engine the problem now is, throttle lespon improved jor. Call me placebo,u can put ur feet down on my gas pedal just like sg999 always said

ur car got nut mou? If nutted i refuse to test. Waste gas oni coz the root was disturbed,veli hard to find the efek.

ur car got nut mou? If nutted i refuse to test. Waste gas oni coz the root was disturbed,veli hard to find the efek.

i dun care,faster cum i let u touch my BLM,sure pancut!

abg travelmate for your info,supercharger can be boost from idling,terpulang kpd size charger hang paker. Same goes to turbo. Cuba bayangkan klu pakei L2 mia turbo masok injin gaga,konfem sebelom pijak dah start boost. Ada sifu boley sendiri bikin extractor kasi sambong turbine,pastu piping gi intercooler,sambung balik intake dah siap. Senang kan? Cuma masalahnye setting. Gaga mia ECU diprogram utk Vacuum,not boost. Kalu tak setting betol, bila intake pressure dari sedut jadik tiup,ECU akan pikir keta dah rosak,engine cek terus nyala. So,apakah performance nak cerita? Oklah, hang mmg kaya boley masok FCON-V,kasi tambah injektor skyline, tapi tak bermaksud bila boost 0.01 bar lampu engine cek tak nyala. Sama gak banyak petrol masok tapi api tak cukup. Macamlah teksi kuning hitam buat hutan bakar. Pernah aku nampak Gaga xg tukar HALLTECH kasi masok turbo, boost 1.2BAR, cuma pakei tak sampei sebulan piston dah hangus padahalnyer conrod talak cukup kuat,oil flow line pon talak bawah crankshaft. Piston macam tofu, mana boley tahan hai boost? Jumlah modal dikeluarkan sehingga engine letup mencecak 20ribu! Cuba bayangkan, alangkah bagui awal awal kasi tukak injin evo7 takyah susah. Bukannyer aku nak look down on injin campro, tapi dgn harga yg sama,tukak injin give u an edge, malah lagi murah. Nak pakei injin stended,regardless supercas ke turbocas,setakat normal boost 0.3bar,saja siok siok dengar blow off valve mmg tiada masalah. Asalkan jgn nanti tangan gatal sendiri bikin boost valve kasi naik boost, injin ancur nanti kena korek dompet lagi susah ati. Semoga hepi tuning dan bawak selamat. Sekian.