finally! finished truing my wheels, again! not sure if my wheels will be ruined faster now that i've trued them again and again. this will be part of my learning process.

rear wheel is now perfect; hoop and lateral, tensioned within the specified limits. front wheel perfect lateral, but somehow the hoop can't be perfected. dunno why. got about 1mm off.

what puzzles me is why mavic assembled the rear wheel with spoke tension way way way off max limit. the tension was way above 165kgf, whereas as per manual, the max tension is only 140kgf.

do they intentionally tension it up that high? or am i doing it wrong? do they overtension the spokes to compensate the decrease in tension with tyre/pressure on?

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 16 2013, 02:41 AM

drive side only. non-drive side is only for truing, tension negligible.

i tot d'bayu is not a secluded place? got pedestrians right? that's very daring indeed!

yeap. i read one of those wheelbuilding books. lace, handtighten all nipples, dishing, and then start tensioning the drive side to the desired tension whilst maintaining the dishing. measure spoke tension only on drive side. the non-drive side has lower tension.

terbalik la boss....

yeap, that's right. once pumped, they rim migrates to the drive side. ideally, there should be two truing stands. one for the front wheel, the other for the rear wheel which will be trued off-center.

so i don't bother. i true it without tyre on and just ignore the detension effect

really? that's some kind of david copperfield magic! i'll read the manual again

nope, park tool stuff too expensive. i use the centering gauge instead. unless i wanna build a wheel from scratch, then i'll get the dishing tool.

servicing my bike. rd pulley done. BB/crank done. cassette done.

removed fork, and noticed my newly replaced brake cable housing is damaged! how come??? there's a 3mm hole! and my headset also kaput.... sand got into the bearing. so not smooth anymore.

well... where can i get them replaced? should i get the complete headset, or should i go to a bearing shop (where is it anyway?) and get the bearings only?

i know velocipide, biketech, pedalspot, ksh, avanti open tomorrow. which shop would u recommend? i wanna get my headset and cable housing and bartape replaced.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 16 2013, 11:43 PM

yes, i can see the inner coil. the damage is more like it's been bitten or crushed by something hard. the housing sudah pecah. i have no idea how it happened.

ooo ilinks.... where to find normal shimano black housing?

ok. i halfway makan racun already. they have headsets?

DA9000 here is 6k+

.... browsing internet to find info on headset.... and ilinks

i went to almost all shops today. nobody has the headset i'm looking for. is it that rare? why lah.... sigh....

i need to check out unker's shop and ksh ttdi tomorrow.

i can't find suitable headset on ritchey's website

1 1/8 top 41.8mm campy type, 1 1/2 bottom normal 52mm. yes, cane creek. GH has no stock at the moment, will take a long time to order. will check out ksh today.

yeap. integrated headset.

cane creek IS42 top, IS52 bottom. will go to ksh lunch time

if i bring the headset, can ah?

it's a drop-in headset, not pressfit. every shop i went to, they asked for a sample. so i thought, if i bring the complete bike, they will remove the fork n headset anyway. so, i guess better to remove and carry the sample only. easier.

aiseh... found the headset, but not 100% identical. crown race can be removed? anyway, looks like have to go there with my complete bike

anybody notice cancelara looks like zoolander?

no way... they don't have this tool?

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053...92_10000_202581

woah... tak takut scratch the fork ka? wont the screwdriver hit the fork?

http://service.specialized.com/collateral/...ility-Guide.pdf

err... why is the headset cap shows cane creek, but the bearings are from VP?