it's the old saying of "don't fix it if it ain't broken"...

yes, in theory an improperly adjusted cleat can do long term damage and it might not be noticeable until it is too late...but that depends on how you believe... many people ride in strange setups for all their lives and they are still around to brag about it...

i've seen before some bike fitting motion capture software in the past being offered for free...it just offers basic motion tracking with a standard camcorder or a web cam... but can't find it now.... think it is taken offline already...

you people memang gatal...

retul fit is not cheap lar...

where is the science to back that claim up?

around the same as bg fit session here....it depends on whether you trust bg fit or retul... but both objectives are the same....

the thing is... a friend of mine did the bg fit and did as they told to the dot... few weeks after the settings... he went back to what he was on before... simply because he felt he could not generate enough power with their setup on his tri bike... it solved some of his sore problems but it did not help with his performance...

he took a bit of the setup here and there to help with his knee problems, but all the rest he went back to what he was on before...

in the end, it is a bit of compromise...

same as wind tunnels... what the aero guys say is good in terms of aero slipstream is not necessary good in actual riding...

you never know there is something better than siham until you try oyster mar... tat is why we call kena racun...

from a biomechanic perspective... you can't learn from the net because it is a very deep topic and you need to understand and i do mean understand human physique to make it work... it's not about having the video tracking software and adjust it to this and that angle and that's it...

having a Full Frame DSLR doesn't actually make you a professional photographer if you know what i mean... it's the knowledge and the experience of doing it...

like how we see girls...

when young, only see girls by the exterior, whether they have the right curves, big jugs, tight ass or pretty face...

now, we see deeper if they have a kind heart or have a kindred soul and shit like that....

experience speaks for itself...

* me and sucky analogies

This post has been edited by butthead: Feb 19 2013, 05:23 PM

wah.. open until penang also you know... your antenna damn long leh....

well, if you want corima... you are pretty much stuck...unfortunately...

or you can always come down to the KL one

This post has been edited by butthead: Feb 19 2013, 07:38 PM

i don't even want to google what that is

7k is quite a lot for beginner... can ask the mtb thread for more in depth opinions

on merida, for sure can get an o nine model already and maybe even the lower spec'ed carbon one if you fancy it...or some better xt spec'ed aluminum one with a set of fancier hoops or some ck laced to ztr olympics

whether 26 or 29ner is up to you... if you ride lots of technical terrain where you need to flick you bike around lots... i guess 26 better

if you want a bike that rolls over the bumpy stuff easier then the 29ner suits better despite some lacking of upgrade parts now...

there is also 650b to consider now

actually both is suitable for either condition... it is just that the 29ner is more stable in handling but sacrifices some agility in my opinion while the 26 would be more agile and going through stuff like big tree roots will sort of halt the bike's forward rolling momentum....

think this says a lot since it compares between a giant 26 and 29ner
http://mbaction.com/Main/News/26er-Versus-...ng-Fo-4713.aspx

this compares between a 26, 29ner and a 650b
http://mbaction.com/Main/News/Shootout-Whe...vs-26-5159.aspx

carbon on MTB is designed differently where it is meant to be strengthened at certain areas and much more layers are applied as opposed to road frames with not much concerns on weight...it will definitely take big hit like jumping off a 5 feet cliff with no issues...

but if you land the bike like the down tube on a big boulder due to misjudgement... that is the end of it... pretty much the same story as a road bike... normal crashes that gives you light scrapes will cause no problem... plant it head on in a concrete wall at speeds and that's the end of it...

weight wise, it has a different meaning while lightness on a roadie equates to a bike that is easier to roll along and propel forward... propulsion wise, weight has the same effect on MTB... but the main point of making a light MTB is that it is easier to chuck it around the trail... don't forget that you might need to bunny hop or flick the bike between tree lines to get through the trail and here is what a heavy and light bike makes a different especially more on fast technical trails.. .not only is it easier to steer around but it also gives you less fatigue in long rides...

29ner is naturally heavier due to more material being used... much like a set of 404 vs 202... where the 404 is heavier but once it gains momentum... it carries it well further without losing it as easily the lighter ones...

the main thing for me is that you have not much experience in riding MTB... so, it will be hard for you to know what you need at this point...both has it's pros and cons and suits different terrain and riding style... only when you know what and how you ride will you be more assured of what to choose... in other words, first bike is always experimental...

to further complicate your life up... they introduced 650b 27.5" wheels which is supposedly to be the have the qualities of both wheels...some sort of in between wheel..

This post has been edited by butthead: Feb 20 2013, 10:39 AM

miao, which are you here for?

naww!!! am i that kind of person...

i am still within my 15 day good boy period... i have strict rules to adhere to...

in other words

mr. jgx

think you should just get this instead...


http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article...rst-look-36468/

interesting thing to quote

my advise, get a smaller frame so the head tube is shorter... that way, you get a lower bar height and you can raise the saddle higher...

alberto is 176cm in height and i think he runs a 52cm frame and a 120mm stem...

the other thing, you also can't bend it like contador for a fact...

it's more or less the same price as the tarmac...

it's a bit on the short side lar... 120mm for a 52cm model...

most 49cm nowadays already running 120mm...

get a 49cm tarmac and you'll be running 100mm...

This post has been edited by butthead: Feb 21 2013, 03:06 PM

i don't think so lar... twitchyness...but then, different people have different opinions...

you can lengthen your stem to beyond 110mm for the pro look and at the same time tame the handling down a bit and still get the massive bar drop that is what you want to achieve right



he is descending kamikaze style... that's why it happened to him....

be careful next time... even if you have all weather tires... aquaplaning still happens.. and it is not like a car where you might have a chance to regain control...

once the wheel (especially the front) washes you... your face will be introduced to the pavement in flat out no time...

rest before you ride again or your wrist and tendons might become inflamed and further aggravate the injuries...

you should say don't do this next time in the wet.... no valentino rossi...


This post has been edited by butthead: Feb 21 2013, 04:46 PM

aquaplaning happens to everything lar... the difference is that once a bike tire loses grip... it lets go immediately in an un-recoverable fashion...while a car aquaplanes and it still stays upright and have a better chance to recover...

in theory, the bigger the surface.. the easier it is to float across standing water...bike tires are supposedly like a knife cutting through water, but i think certain conditions will get it to not say lift... but enough to lose contact with the ground and then the inevitable happens if you are at enough speed...

it just happens to skinny tires too... this you have to trust me...for some reasons...even when sheldon brown says it is impossible...

This post has been edited by butthead: Feb 21 2013, 04:58 PM

it's harder to aquaplane on the straight road... in that sense i trust it is less chances of it happening to bikes compared to cars...

but you still can't bang it into a corner like you would a dry one...

RM800 is a bit hard... you have to look for those XDS or Oscar bikes which not much people will recommend for serious ownership...

like?

which means a layer of water between tire and road... the basis for hydroplaning...

well, this is going to be endless... let's assume that it won't happen and it is never gonna happen to any of us...

just don't ride wet and shit won't happen....