wat about them?

you meant in wat sense about them?

if you are talking about tier wise... in shimano line up top down it will be

10-speed
1) DuraAce
2) Ultegra
3) 105
4) Tiagra

9-speed
5) Sora

8-speed
6) 2300

Your budget will most likely land you in tiagra and 105 range.

If you say you are looking at a RM3500 range... maybe you get a Polygon with 105 or a Trek with Tiagra. At this point, you have to decide if you are to go with a better frame or better componentry specs. There is no real say if either frame is better than the other as metal working has always been the same this years and they should be equally matched for that price.

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 22 2013, 04:43 PM

captain eagle eye strikes again...

i am going to give you a shitty answer...

i am going to take the bike that my bike shop has...neither is important to me because most likely it will come with shimano which i will scrap for sram...and i have no option for brands since i am stuck with the brand my bike shop sells...

it's the same question of whether you want a korean car with all the bells and whistles or a german marque with less features???

it's all down to your choice at the end of the day and i am afraid to tell you this is one question we can't answer for you...your money your say...

about polar, timex and garmin forerunners...

i am a simple guy who dislikes complicating shit up (which obviously is 123.7% a lie)

on another dirty thought...how does the girls use the chest strap???

won't the rubbing of the strap stimulate their
???

food for thought...

haiyah.... i dunno mar...not that i have someone to try it on also...

if i have... i would not be asking would i?

what if it's a pair of 38G's??? still below? i don't even know what 38G is...must be their cubic capacity... 38 gallons of milk... bwahahahaha

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 22 2013, 06:55 PM

V6???

the day i try...i will let you know if it works or i get 2 tight slaps for being stupid and listening to your advice...

it's like asking if it is ok to use alu post on carbon frame? why not???

carbon cockpit doesn't save much weight because they can't cut down on material due to safety reasons...and carbon posts usually don't come built with any form of compliancy at all... they are as stiff as they can be...

of course reducing a bit here and there is going to accumulate up... that is basic maths... but, so does the money being spent... to reduce a kilo of a 10KG bike... easy peasy... but things starts to escalate once it reaches sub 8KG... reducing a kilo from there is going to be EPIC ENORMOUS AMOUNTS OF MONEY....i'd rather have a fat wallet and a fat bike than both thin ones...

Carbon construction on bars and posts as far as i understand is very straight forward... they don't lay different carbon material to change it's characteristics.... primarily because you can't suffer a broken bar while you might be able to risk a broken frame.. a bar that breaks mid ride is going to mean the rider hitting the deck like a sack of potatoes...

it's not like a frame where they might lay UHM carbon plies in certain parts and HM carbon plies or sometimes a sandwich of both in certain parts to make one stiff and one flex a little...even a pina 65hm1k does not mean the whole bike is made out of 65 ton per square centimeter high modules 1k weave plies... it just means majority of it is and some parts are made with lower modulus plies to make it dampen shocks and increase chance of fractures in the carbon plies...but, i'll give it to you that it is less buzzy on the carbon bars though... that is most likely possible...

furthermore, the carbon stuff nowadays are quite safe as long as you are not abusing it and only clamping down bolts with torque wrenches within manufacturer specs... only a big hit to the bar can cause seen or unseen fractures or cracks that might cause breakages when it is exercised during rides... i would say it is quite safe if you really take care of it like not letting the bike fall over and hit the group or knock it against things...i am a natural klutz which is why i stay away from it...

the only wheel that is capable of doing what you want would be the mavic cosmic slr and mavic rsys slr... both has the exalith aluminum rims and the rsys is almost as light as the 303FC tubulars and both are clinchers... the tub versions don't offer much weight savings.. pricey though...still has to adjust pads if you intend to swap wheel...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 23 2013, 09:34 AM