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 Cycling V5 aka 8888 CNY HUAT ah!, General talks on Racing/road bikes

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butthead
post Apr 18 2013, 10:40 PM

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QUOTE(lilredridinghood @ Apr 18 2013, 10:37 PM)
i'm thinking of going 25, but lately learning uphill so, meh

user posted image
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excuses

QUOTE(lilredridinghood @ Apr 18 2013, 10:38 PM)
bought expensive computer, but lousy Internet
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the big ass many shades of color high res boobies pix you can see???

but a plain black and white picture you can't.... wat internet you have...boobinet?

butthead
post Apr 18 2013, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 18 2013, 10:40 PM)
what kind of wheel can fit in 22s cassette?
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22s wheel...obviously..
butthead
post Apr 18 2013, 10:54 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 18 2013, 10:42 PM)
how much is a 27t DA cassette huh?
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not cheap..

you can call the below to find out
1-800-GATAL
03-6201 0422
03-8889 2822
03-2287 1022
03-3325 9403

QUOTE(lilredridinghood @ Apr 18 2013, 10:44 PM)
I think ZIPP?
22speed cassette lar... not in another 150 years la

QUOTE(lilredridinghood @ Apr 18 2013, 10:44 PM)
user posted image

is horny
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which part??? people nowadays have such dirty minds...

i only see a face with an extreme smile...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 18 2013, 10:56 PM
butthead
post Apr 18 2013, 10:57 PM

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miao... i suggest you buy this

user posted image

and scratch your itch..
butthead
post Apr 18 2013, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 18 2013, 11:00 PM)
trying to resist the itch lah. cassette 5xx - 6xx. damnit! just gotta climb however slow la
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you buy the saddle lar... RM495 and it is a professional scratcher.... guarantee itch to go away...

QUOTE(dinraxxx @ Apr 18 2013, 11:11 PM)
(WTS) Garmin Forerunner 910XT

Lai lai, planning to let go guys. Can still nego. Need cash urgently to pay for my damaged car. Help promote to other friends too ya cry.gif
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isn't lil' missy looking for this??? why not you pm her and see...
butthead
post Apr 18 2013, 11:50 PM

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looking at long term... it can help scratch your other itch mar...like your r340...
butthead
post Apr 19 2013, 12:09 AM

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join some folding bike or bike shop...

vans urban cycle cycles around town often...safer to follow them,..

or ah pek bike if you google them up
butthead
post Apr 19 2013, 07:28 AM

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QUOTE(SYAMiLLiON @ Apr 19 2013, 12:57 AM)
aiyaaa abang...why you no sell last week??? just bought from the marathon shop on saturday cry.gif without quick release kit some more doh.gif
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as with many things... wrong place wrong timing

QUOTE(mrjgx @ Apr 19 2013, 01:45 AM)
Finally put up the ads. My Merida is up for sale (in UAE market only) tongue.gif

Will then use the money from the sale to fund for new wheelset..perhaps the 404.
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you horny *******...
butthead
post Apr 19 2013, 07:33 AM

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out of boredom


those things can dance..


like she is giving birth...hahahahah...c0ckblock

on a more serious note...

butthead
post Apr 19 2013, 11:01 AM

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you meant LBL??? liege bastogne liege???

butthead
post Apr 19 2013, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(lilredridinghood @ Apr 19 2013, 11:09 AM)
how much with cadence sensor? tongue.gif
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most probably means he will reuse it...
butthead
post Apr 19 2013, 03:15 PM

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we have captain eagle eye which is our resident pus-sy....

i am the anal retentive a~hole who likes to correct the UN-noticeable unimportant mistakes...

i dunno who the boss is...bruce lim maybe?
user posted image

LBL is "lausai boh lak"

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 19 2013, 03:16 PM
butthead
post Apr 21 2013, 03:46 AM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 19 2013, 06:41 PM)
but le butthead pays my salary. i work for him

anyway. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1...=1&l=865e4005d0
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and yet, you are giving away free stuff ruining my biznes...

dafug kind of balls have u?
butthead
post Apr 21 2013, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(mrjgx @ Apr 20 2013, 02:25 PM)
Waah..finally. The 22 reviews. I think I've made the right choice of skipping the top end Red when I built my Allez recently. I'm also think that skipping SL4 at that moment is also the right thing to do tongue.gif

But the Force 22 is priced at RM5k plus..quite expensive maa

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/categor...-groupset-47200
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the rumors that came out most recently are that SRAM is to maintain a Red and Force 10 speed group and the Red and Force 22 as a separate lineup. Hence the price.

It sounds counter intuitive since the conversion of the SRAM 22 makes it quite close or higher than DA 9000.

Let's see how it goes in a couple more months.

QUOTE(Alvis_Woo @ Apr 20 2013, 06:20 PM)
i'm 168cm  rclxub.gif , someone said can go Specialized shop to do a full fitting report, but cost RM800  doh.gif
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Frame fitting is what you are looking for...frame fitting is much cheaper as they depend on a rig that has infinite adjustments that finds a frame suitable for your body while Bike fit is more to adjusting your body position on the bike to make it a more efficient posture.

Last time, bike boutique used to have that rig but they closed down already. KSH TTDI also has a simillar rig, but not sure if they only do it for customers who buy bikes from them or how it works.

Bike fitting is more expensive as it involves a lot more work to understand the needs of the person being fitted and it is normally not recommended on newbies since they don't have a set of criteria to look for during the fit.

Worry about those things later. Your height should be centered around compact models of around 47 & 49CM. You can give 50CM a try as well but i tend to think that would be a little too big. Best is to hop on the bike to get a feel of it and before that if possible, borrow a friends road bike for a semi longish ride to get a feel of it. So, you know what to look for when comes your actual purchase.

QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 20 2013, 09:52 PM)
u can have a professional bikefitting session for rm300. let me know if you are interested.
I let you know if i am interested means you pay for me???

on another note...Mirinda is bad for health... sugar water causes diabetes...

QUOTE(tzxsean @ Apr 20 2013, 10:05 PM)
hi guys, recently I won a Lerun Folding Bike from Maybank contest

and I'm not sure what's the price that I can sell to others

please advise?
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call rodalink and ask what is the price with the intention that you want to buy one... then sell it off for 20% less than they do on bicyclebuysell.com

else, you can also look for it on bicyclebuysell.com

QUOTE(Snowguy2068 @ Apr 20 2013, 11:35 PM)
What does a professional bike fitting session do?
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it help you position yourself better on the bike... some to get a more efficient posture for Triathletes or some to get rid of some aches here and there....as i say... you have to know what you want first because the first thing to a good fit session is always an interview with the person being fitted to understand their problems on the bike and what they want to achieve...
butthead
post Apr 21 2013, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(mrjgx @ Apr 21 2013, 03:37 AM)
I'd like to share this discussion I found on the net. Don't get me wrong, I'm not implying which one is better as I have both alu and carbon bike (honestly I can't feel much differences between them). Some of the replies had a good and valid points. Perhaps it can help those beginners out there who are seeking their first road bike and unsure between alu or carbon frame.  blush.gif
ahh there's many more in that discussion..you can read more here:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bikes-fra...-do-276830.html

My take? Whatever it is, just get the first roadbike new. Be it alu or carbon or bamboo or whatever.
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i do agree with you on the first bike... if you have money like our taiko here... get a carbon.. else stick with a cheap bike as i always refer to the first bike as an experimental bike where you find your feet and learn things about the bike and develop your set of criteria for a perfect bike for yourself... not always the greatest is the best... if you don't feel right sitting on a great bike, you don't feel the best...

secondly, the argument would be quite complicated without taking into account on entry level and high end ones from both ends of the frame material... of course, some high end aluminum frames might be as good as entry or even mid range carbon hence not feeling much difference (not saying your mirinda sucks lar, but you understand what you get for RM7k right)

but with carbon, you get better lifespan off the frame (with the exception of crash damages), lighter weight, better stiffness, vertical compliance if designed properly...the list is endless.. all that comes with none other the less, a hefty price....with new development in carbon layup schedules, pre-preg carbon cloth or custom weaved carbon tubes like Time or BMC, top secret epoxy resins, internal ribbing, again top secret carbon curing time and shit like that.. they will continue babbling bullshit into your ears until the nasa composites expert loses their jobs...

carbon in bicycle building is still way off from industries like aerospace and formula 1... hence, which is why specialize went to mclaren to allow them to analyze their carbon layups with their FEA softwares and Cervelo has Don Guichard to head their technologies and development department...

even the carbon cloth that is used in bicycle industries is still some way off the ones used in aerospace and formula 1... those are closely guarded secrets still and it is most prolly to costly to use for production...

aluminum would be the defacto standard in cheap bikes as it is cheap and workmanship is lesser...and a more reliable material to build bikes around despite some less interesting characteristics...if not, our cars would all be made from carbon by now...

QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 21 2013, 10:56 AM)
give me your email address. i'll send you the flyer. it's 350, not 300. sorry.

but you need to have a bike first, i think.
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ei....no side income... need i remind you of company policies?

QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 21 2013, 11:08 AM)
u need to go back to the engineering aspect la. alu has definite fatigue lifespan. not with carbon. carbon has no fatigue life. coz fatigue can be calculated only on metal material. but that doesn't mean carbon is better. carbon quality depends on who manufactures them and the grade of carbon cloth and resin, etc. that argument about aluminum engine and aircraft is complete BS. the kind of loads applied onto a bicycle frame and onto aircraft and engine block are completely different. even the purpose also different.
promo for our shop la. but nobody interested. malaysians rich i guess, don't want free stuff.
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the use of aluminum in cars like engine blocks and radiators are different... those components are not subjected to torsional stresses... if they put it into areas like suspension linkages and arms, then those might start to show signs of fatigue as compared to conventional heavier steel parts...

there is also a higher chance that we feel fatigue in parts like our frames because it is responsible for transferring our power output and more importantly, power that we generate...we don't feel the effects of power being sapped from the car because we are only stepping on the gas pedal and the relation and linkage from the pedal to how well power is being transferred is not there as compared to the bike...

they are afraid that you have smelly armpits...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 21 2013, 12:45 PM
butthead
post Apr 21 2013, 06:29 PM

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do you have a complete bike or just a frame?

sell it, you can't ride 2 bikes at once...the golden question to ask yourself is, are you riding the merida more or the spez more nowadays... you are bound to leave one out... and since you are looking to buy another one.. why not sell it now when it still has a price?
butthead
post Apr 22 2013, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(Snowguy2068 @ Apr 21 2013, 09:43 PM)
hey guys, since i won't be able to get the trek so soon. I was wondering if any other brands besides merida and giant worth mentioning.

like i said the polygon one has quite an amazing price for the gears but i have no idea how to see the other components.
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there is others... but there isn't much of a point telling you things you can't acquire from afar... almost all manufacturers have budget bikes with the exception of manufacturers like look and time...

the thing is, if you set the polygon as the base for a value for money bike... i can tell you upfront now that there is no point is looking elsewhere because there will be no bike that can topple the RM3.6k price of a polygon C6.0

you are referring to this right?
http://www.polygonbikes.com/index.php?pgid...eid=483&par=390

this is 3.8 or 3.9 from what i saw at rodalink
http://www.polygonbikes.com/index.php?pgid...keid=528&par=11

you can always look for some cheaper bikes from scott, jamis, fuji, khs if it is available at your place... i believe EMC, boardman also has bikes down to those level but they are in KL and i don't think they are distributed to penang as far as i know....

aster @ velocipede works (in KL) lso has some very interesting models..... some SRAM Rival equipped bike for RM4.1k on the price tag... not sure how much they can discount...

they might cut some corners here and there to make it compete at the same price bracket as the cheaper brands...

the logic here will be very simple,
1) cheaper brand, compensated by better componentry
2) better brand, cut corners on components to make it compete with cheaper brands of same price

QUOTE(mrjgx @ Apr 21 2013, 10:45 PM)
Sold! To a new owner who will take care of my Merida in a much better way..tsk tsk
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2 steps closer to sl5....
butthead
post Apr 22 2013, 01:04 PM

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QUOTE(Mac Wai @ Apr 22 2013, 12:27 PM)
Questions from a noob!

Looking to improve my power and endurance. Probably I need to understands some basic science of training, like pushing my threshold, or not over-doing it.
How does a heart rate monitor like polar watch helps? Thanks! shakehead.gif
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HRM is a complicated thing... what happens is that with a HRM, you get to monitor your heart rate against your level of exertion (perceived)..

usually HRM is used to segregate into 4 zones to help tell you what level of exertion you are at...and also Max HR to indicate that you are going to burn yourself out if you exceed that point of threshold...or in other words, a gauge... a tachometer for your body..

generally it is divided into 4 zones... mind the acronyms as many people call it many other terms
1) Recovery zone - a zone you fall into when you are trying to recover from over taxing your body

2) Aerobic zone - when your heart rate starts to rise from a repetitive strenuous motion and within the limits of your bodies oxygen delivery systems.

3) Anaerobic zone (Anaerobic Threshold / AT) - is when your heart is beginning to struggle with supplying sufficient fuel to your muscles and your muscles start generating lactic acid that gives you that muscle burn feeling

4) Lactate Threshold / LT = is where you are at the limit of your capabilities and anything over this zone will cause you to overcook it, recovery will be hard once you get into or past this zone

user posted image

you can read more on the net and how to find out your zones...usually it's a percentage of your max HR...it is advisable to train in the AT zone to improve your limits... LT zone is usually not sustainable by us as it is not easy to stay in those zones for long periods of time... pros would generally be capable of 30mins or more in LT like the final ascend of the day and shitz li tat...

that being said however is not reliable as HR fluctuates depending on your body.. if you feel unwell, your HR might be high even though you are riding at steady slow paces...and you feel like you are on the limit because it is the perceived level of exertion...more on this later on...

on the other hand, it can be used for simple comparison purposes...let's say you ride the same route when you started off cycling and after 6-9 months of training... at the begining of your cycling, riding at 80-90% intensity will put you into say maybe 85-90% of your max HR while 6-9 months down the road after strict training, you will see the same intensity drop your heart rate by 2-5% of your max HR... that is generally what they do for comparison...

back on the level of exertion...which is what many people consider not a good matrix for gauging performance because it is what you feel and it is not a concrete matrix to plot a performance chart from... so, this is where power meter comes in to help tell you the amount of power you generate versus how hard your heart is working to get oxygen delivery to your muscles... this all in all is another story for another day...very complex as i don't understand it as much as well...

here is a nicely written article by bikeradar on HRM use
http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/h...cyclists-28838/

and to further complicate things
http://www.markallenonline.com/maoArticles.aspx?AID=9
http://www.shapefit.com/target-heart-rate-...d-exertion.html

confusing ain't it? in simple... jus treat it as buying a 6" rev counter for your car lar...whether it tells you anything important or not is not an issue brows.gif

user posted image

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 22 2013, 01:06 PM
butthead
post Apr 22 2013, 03:35 PM

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QUOTE(Mac Wai @ Apr 22 2013, 01:16 PM)
Thank you Butthead, I am ready to take the plunge, so what are the good options available in the market? The Watch types or those with a strap clinging on to the chest type. Please be more specific about the product or have Miao, your head Honcho to lay the poison!
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ehrrr...OK...

1) budget?
2) need GPS?

Getting the garmin forerunner, timex, or polar watch type ones is good for dual usage. Running and cycling, but there are pros and cons with those which miao can rantexplain to you about.

Else, i don't like new units like garmin edge because of having to constantly charge it. A pain for me as i have alzheimers and will forget constantly that i need to charge the darn thing.

I am more of a traditional computer unit kind of guy.

I don't think there is much choices from cateye nowadays that will be cheap. But from sigma sport you have the

1) Sigma BC1909 for around RM320
http://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/bike...bc1909/?flash=1
2) Sigma BC2209 for around RM420
http://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/bike...ireless/bc2209/
3) Sigma Rox series for over RM650
http://www.sigmasport.com/en/produkte/bike...ireless/rox_81/

or you can have the GPS enabled bike computers like Garmin Edge 500 (RM900+), 800 (color screen) (RM1.3 or RM1.4k can't remember) or the new 510 and 810 (both above RM1.3k i believe) which has color on both and Garmin Partner.

then, time to handover to miao to present his rantings recommendations on polar units...

QUOTE(mrjgx @ Apr 22 2013, 02:01 PM)
For the past 1 year i use HR for my training..it's constantly unreliable if you want to measure your performance.

Seriously, but riding a bike without knowong your speed, distance, and HR is totally a no-no for me.

I have take off the cadence unit from my bike to shave off the weight and i found myself not needing it at all.
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with HR monitoring, it only make sense if you are putting intensive efforts into it... i mean you can vary to understand how it looks from an 80 to 90 to 100% effort. But riding under your limit is what makes no sense from the data it spits out.

QUOTE(Mac Wai @ Apr 22 2013, 02:12 PM)
Me too, I like to know how am I doing during rides and also what's going on inside me without guessing. More on keeping track of my own progress.
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well, hate to break it to you... but after a while.. the novelty wears off and you don't give a flying f@k about it anymore...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 22 2013, 03:36 PM
butthead
post Apr 22 2013, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(Snowguy2068 @ Apr 22 2013, 03:49 PM)
The thing i would want to know can the geometry of a bike for example trek vs polygon really make a difference to justify the lower gear set and the higher price point.

and what are the differences between a tiagra and a 105?
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usually the geometry are more or less the same... on the trek, there is only 1 choice which is the H2...

on polygon there is a Polygon A and C series which is their race and endurance geometry... same goes for Merida, Race and Ride series and Giant for the Defy and TCR series...

the H2 is more of a endurance geometry rather than the more aggressive race geometry...you have to look at their geometry and things to note is the

1) top tube length or effective top tube length (more or less determines your reach to the handlebars)
2) head tube length (determines how low your handlebars can go as usually it comes with a whole stack of spacers to make the bars higher than the owner wants)
3) seat tube (not as important unless it is too long for your inseam)

other things will effect the handling more than the fitting...

it's your justification at the end of the day...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 22 2013, 04:22 PM

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