the aircond condensed and wet your ECU , it is now in safe mode. drive to any mechanic or proton service center and tell them the ECU is wet , common problem , can be solved easily . to prevent this again , always use circular air button and dont use hi-cool&low-fan set-up , or it could be the water pipe clogged.

your friend's proton waja power window problem is on now . the plastic bracket mihgt be cracked , causes the problem . prepare RM300 for it . no solution until now .

-it might be your altenator or your battery problem . everytime it is not smooth or jerky ride might be your ECU reset , or other problem . RM22cent per km is average but still on the higher side . try go to the nearest SC and reset your ECU, ask them diagnose your problem , or do tuning , normally it would cost RM30 only using MUT2. another problem is it might be your throttle body [TB] is clogged up .

-proton waja campro is sharing the same S4XX engine as the proton gen2 . it has the same problem on the acceleration , that is lagg . one of the reason is the power band range doesnt really snug nicely for acceleration . 4G18 mitsu gearbox is designed with 4G18 low-end torque , so it will match the power nicely . but if campro , the engine is mid-high torque, hence it will not really ngam at the first moment when u step on it. when u floor it , it will use its time to think for more petrol and power , then the power comes in , only the computer realised that it needs to downshifts , but when it downshifts , the power band doesn't match , it takes time to reach and burn more fuel to revv up the engine . not exactly a problem or defect , becasue campro is track day oriented , not really town-friendly . the problem to solve this is by installing K&N filter , it maximise the air intake and the car become more responsive .

WAJA OWNERS - MISTU 4G18 WAJA : EVERYTIME U TURN ON THE KEY, LET IT STAY AT ACC/ON POSITION , WAIT THE CHECK ENGINE (YELLOW LIGHT) GOES OFF , ONLY START TO CRANK YOUR ENGINE . IT WILL PROVIDE YOU A SMOOTHER RIDE.

This post has been edited by BridgestoneRE711: Aug 15 2006, 01:02 AM

not really your problem . becasue after every crank/start , the altenator will need to charge up the battery , hence if you push it , the engine will work harder , causes lack of power . believe me , no other car in this world can go smoothly when it is just started . just live with it , or antoher way is ...everytime go in your car , start your engine , buck up your seatbelt of scratch your KKC ... then it will have enoguh time to get ready .

my brother gen2 change to K&N , improve alot . the campro engine .
me and brother have met the proton engineer by ourself , our friend works there . he said that the campro engine dip is due to some design/engineerng at the air-intake which causes the dip in power at 3500rpm . and he said that campro is rubbish with the alluminum cast oil-reserve , brittle and heavy . he mean heavy becasue the alluminum have to be in one big lump , not like metal which is thinner and welded togher , however , i dont really know much .
change to drop-in type , if open-pod , not suitable for normal car , unless u really mod until mad fellow .

for the glove box , for all protn waja owner . i think u all know the silicon spray , not WD40 , somekind like WD40 , but it is silicon based . silicon spray . buy one bottle and go back home , open the glove box , clear the stuff inside the glove box . then push the hinge at the edge , form the inside . to release the whole glove box down .
then , look at the edge of the glove box , there will be screws . open them all , the you will see the whole mechanism of the glove-box handle , it is like a WING . spray the silicon spray on the whole mechanism , spray for 3 minutes once . spray it for 3-4 times . then close back the glove box .
TAA DAA ! the glove box will be absolutely perfect !

ok , the light is becasue ECU running diagnose on our throttle body which has servo&gears inside , plus the electrical components inside the car.

when u turn on the light , the ECU will send signal to the servo and the gears inside will do somekind of 'check-up' ,the ECU will run diagnose from the servo and the other electrical parts of the engine .at the same time , the servo will determine the throttle body butterfly-flap postition, and send the data back to the ECU for verfication. hence , if you start to crank it in the middle of the check-up it will shock the system and the diagnose will not be completed .
if it sounds too complicated , it is somekind of 'it is safe to shut down your computer' in windows 95 .

for the campro , you no need to wait , this is beacsue it is running on different system , it mihgt be the ECU will diagnose after the engine has started . i am not so sure on campro's system either .

as u can see , many mitsu 1.5 , proton wira got this Throttle body problem , most of them are due to the melted gears inside . by practicing this method , it can increase the lifespan .

This post has been edited by BridgestoneRE711: Aug 16 2006, 01:21 AM

ok , the light is becasue our throttle body got a servo &gears.

when u turn on the light , the servo and the gears inside will do somekind of 'check-up' and the ECU will run diagnose from the servo and the other electrical parts of the engine . hence , if you start to crank it in the middle of the check-up it will shock the system and the diagnose will not be completed .

for the campro , you no need to wait , this is beacsue it is running on different system , it mihgt be the ECU will diagnose after the engine has started . i am not so sure on campro's system either .

haha ... nice to hear that it solves your problem .

man , i am not in alor star . i joined WPC TT twice already . last year , and once on CNY , only 3 fellow turned up . just becasue of me ... the youngest WPC fellow ... hahha ...

as for the silicon spray , er ... not sure what brand already . try to search around , it looks like WD-40 , made in malaysia brand . it has a very big .. SILICON spray in front one . but not WD-40 .

by thw way , i foudn that waja with evo-wanna be are the worst stupid thing ever done . why ? becasue waja is completely proton . if wira , we can still be fooled ... right ? at least wira is 50% mitsu look .

at least u still can fool wat ... wira is a lancer , that is why there is not so wrong to convert the look .
waja is one lump of proton look , looks like one lump of metal ... howt o make ti look like evo ? it is like turning spectra into evo . not right ...
just becasue proton are usually facelift-able to mitsu , all those bugger out there still want to convert it to evo look ...

hahaha ...

more ? more ?

anyone tried ?

no la ...i saja want bump this thread only ... kekeke

selinix , i think iti s time for you to do a MUT II tuining , my car 4 years old liao ... no die before ...

it might be caused by dirty throttle body ... not too sure ...

. might go as low as 26-30K , depends on condition .

mounting koyak mostly is due to the one near the timing belt .
if not mistaken , RM110 from Proton SC (Original), one friend did it there. others are charged RM150 for that .


racket assy,left TM/MTG $146.02 bracket assy,right TM/MTG $166.07 bracket assy,front $41.02 bracket assy,front $39.13

engine mountnig . vibration mar .

SAS tuning is one kind of tuning/mode using MUTII diagnose/tuning device .
SAS tuning is also one kind of MODE to select duing MUT II tuning .
when u go to SC , make sure u ask them to use SAS mode to tune .

no harm during tuning , the good point of injection engine is that the tuning wont run one .
SAS just play with the mode or the ... power band of the car only . i dont know hwo to explain .
just tune once , it will save its data , and then as long as you dont disconnect your battery , it will be okay .

new engine tends to be louder when reving , due to tight parts .
but campro engine is well-known with its loudless , just live with it . u can do some soundproofing by using bitumen sheet on the firewall area , where the chassis number is stamped , and then few layers of superlon/insuflex on it .