QUOTE(Dreadsic @ Jun 15 2012, 07:22 PM)
better send the car to ur regular workshop and ask them check on the idle speed if its too low. Kelisa Club Tok
Kelisa Club Tok
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Jun 15 2012, 11:02 PM
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#161
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2,147 posts Joined: Mar 2005 |
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Jun 27 2012, 04:44 PM
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#162
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QUOTE(avereng @ Jun 26 2012, 09:53 AM) I going to replace my Kelisa absorbers. Never change for 5 yrs. I'm target for comfort and durable. comfort, nothing beats standard parts. Any brand & model to suggest with price? oem, kayaba brand. DUnno price, I think rm300 something for set of four. If you want a little firmer(stiffer), Id suggest ProRide. Cheap. Around RM350 for a set of four. and my advice, dont go for adjustable. Even the Rm500 brand new priced ones. Those are shitty items. Shitty I tell u.. very. |
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Jun 27 2012, 11:51 PM
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#163
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2,147 posts Joined: Mar 2005 |
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Jun 28 2012, 10:16 PM
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#164
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QUOTE(WoeiChyuan99 @ Jun 28 2012, 01:22 AM) m_n_s [fill in da blank] haha.. that brand eh. only the front is adjustable. first three months seem to be ok, but after that problem come... -the rear absorber start producing sound when cornering. -driving become not comfortable, feel like driving on a bumpy road although it is in flat surface (shopping complex car park should be flat right? -now the worst thing is my fish height is unbalance looking from the front~ the right hand side is a bit higher than the left hand side... (is this due to the workmanship or should I blame to my awful driving skill the bumpy feel is because the absorber are stiffer than standard. Very stiff for comfortable use. if the height is not balance, you need to check on the distance of the spring perch (adjustable spring seat) and compare between left and right side. Take a ruler or something that has numbers on it so you can measure the distance. QUOTE(avereng @ Jun 28 2012, 11:28 AM) Thanks for advice. OEM shall last up to 5 years. But, it depends on the road situation you are traveling on. Most probably, it'll last up to 3 years or sooner than that if gone through harsher road conditions. OEM absorber can last how long before change? Any workshop to intro in Puchong area? I dun want to go Perodua SC Puchong I dunno.. lol. Sorry cant help on this. but for labor cost of changing the front and rear absorbers should fall within RM50~RM100 for front and rear. QUOTE(AMeGG @ Jun 28 2012, 01:37 PM) i just made a major service to my kelisa yesterday.... valve cover? Why need to be changed? the spark plug seal worn? how much eh? RM300?It's cost me RM857.00.... (including the workmanship and parts change) but very satisfied customer here... all problem gone..drive also feel very smooth!!! Parts change.. 1. Clutch plate complete set (DAIKIN) 2. Valve cover gasket 3. Valve cover 4. Radiator hose (fullset) 5. Oil seal flyweel 6. Power steering oil 7. Brake oil 8. Engine Oil (Petronas Match 5) 9. Oil Filter 10.Gear Oil 11.Radiator Coolant 12.Rear Bulb |
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Jul 1 2012, 11:04 PM
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#165
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QUOTE(avereng @ Jun 29 2012, 11:18 AM) alignment only rm10~rm15.. and it is really important after changing absorber. QUOTE(TryX @ Jun 29 2012, 09:36 PM) 1. My right hand side of the air conditioner like no air come out, anyone know what the problem? and the cost to fix this??? could be the blower under the dash is clogged. Send to aircon shop to let them check the cooling coil if its clean or dirty. 2. My electric adjustable side mirror got problem also cannot adjust left and right. Anyone know isit possible to fix it?? And the cost to fix it?? mirror? no idea.. |
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Jul 8 2012, 05:56 PM
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#166
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QUOTE(megat89 @ Jul 7 2012, 05:36 PM) finally..solved the engine oil leaking issue...changed new timing belt and oil sump gasket..today went back to the same shop to really find the culprit..just use glue problem solved..so hard to find the culprit since it has been leaking for more than a year i think..hope it is truely no leak now.. which part that is the culprit?I think Ive had like 4 parts leaked engine oil. - oil filter seal attachment -solved - flywheel oil seal -start leaking two weeks ago - oil sump drain plug -leaking since I overtighten the plug - oil return valve (at the top next to plug cover) -solved btw, I think K2OC forum is no longer exists. Down forever.. like Kelisaclub.com... |
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Jul 9 2012, 12:12 PM
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#167
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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 9 2012, 12:03 AM) dunno wat happened to K2OC.....but kelisaclub is back up already.... kelisaclub fb group aku dah lama apply nak join, tak jawab pon.. anyway..can join their facebook page oso if u want.. thanks for the update bro. QUOTE(megat89 @ Jul 9 2012, 11:36 AM) it is the one located under the timing belt's top pulley..there is one hole just a bit lower from the pulley..your oil return valve is it the one where u have to remove the spark plug cover to remove it?..i had the same leakage..solve by myself by buying a new plug..rm60 something from perodua.. no no, the return valve no need to open spark plug cover. The shape like a ball bearing. Right next to oil cap. Its just an oil seal kaput. |
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Jul 9 2012, 01:05 PM
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#168
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QUOTE(megat89 @ Jul 9 2012, 12:29 PM) ohw..that one..i have no issue with that..now only one issue left..the rattling airfilter box due to the broken clips..already installed screw but still not good enough..already ask from the perodua they only sell one set..cost rm130.80 if not mistaken..so expensive for that plastic thing.. one hundred, thirty ringgit and eighty sen???for real?? or its RM13.80? or, it is RM130.80 for the whole air filter box? Ive tried using industrial sized staple (half inch long), hook it up, only last for 2 or 3 days and the staple just looses it self. Vibration too high. LOL |
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Jul 9 2012, 01:22 PM
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#169
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QUOTE(megat89 @ Jul 9 2012, 01:12 PM) no..confirm rm130.80..since it is one set..feel like going for open pod..haha..but afraid if it can affect my fc.. open pod can, but need to have a proper cold-air intake. If not, hot air from the radiator is going to be sucked in instead. rather than gain anything, instead, you lose power.. very bad fc. |
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Jul 10 2012, 10:49 PM
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#170
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QUOTE(Sawamura @ Jul 10 2012, 03:29 PM) guys, roughly how much is the rotor + brake pads installation charge provided if i use my own rotor + brake pad.. maybe can talk it out for rm50 instead?. i was quoted RM100 for the works, is it reasonable? what kind and how much the rotor cost you? and also the brake pad. I think Im gonna need a rotor change as well. |
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Jul 11 2012, 10:13 PM
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#171
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QUOTE(Sawamura @ Jul 11 2012, 02:26 PM) a cheaper solution is getting a bigger brake from honda. Check out mudah.my, there's one machine shop selling big brake kit for kelisa rotor+caliper+pad for RM400. Minimum rim size, 15". Advantages are, its bigger and its ventilated (dual layer disc). Im planning on installing them. Cuz stock brake look so puny inside my 15".. LOL But yeah, still a planning tho. |
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Jul 13 2012, 11:25 AM
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#172
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QUOTE(xDjWanNabex @ Jul 12 2012, 07:49 PM) Guys, wanna ask. Anyone got A/C problem? My damn hose connecting the condenser and the inside part(sorry not so sure the name, but near the right bottom of the engine) burst. Went to mechanic got it changed, and it farking burst on me again. you know what, the car actually knows that you are going to sell it off so its making a fuss so that you wont sell her off. Went to a diff a/c place as my mum was in a rush, he chnaged the condenser, valve some other stuff and replace the hose, charged me 400+, and then the car kept on dying when i on the A/C when stuck in jam. Then went back to my usual mech, got the compressor changed, cleaned up some stuff, got the belt changed, AND NOW THE HOSE BURST AGAIN T_____T Spent close to 1.2k already, changing the damn hose and gas 4-5 times. Freaking frustrated. Anyone know wtf is going on with the A/C? I just want to fix the A/C and sell off my car was the thing you said is this? ![]() if switch ON the aircond and engine dies, the compressor (image) is dead. You know what, changing all the aircond parts with new compressor (local) and hoses, pipes, condesor, servicing the blower will cost you roughly to RM1.2k.. that's what my friend paid for his Kenari aircond system. Everything new. QUOTE(num123 @ Jul 12 2012, 08:42 PM) so my fish's left rear smaller window got smashed, the window broke completely but thanks to the tint job it didnt shatter. any advice? no idea really. Might wanna call Dr. Cermin for help. reminds me of my friend's case. He was driving his Kancil along Puchong-Putrajaya bypass around 8pm. He was cruising 90kmh alone and all of a sudden, a loud BANG in his car. The rear left window shatters inside the cabin. He got home and upon inspection there's a dent on top of the door frame. The door is stuck. As if someone had just shot a house brick over the 3 lane bypass. Costs him less than 500 including repairing the door frame. |
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Jul 15 2012, 12:09 AM
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#173
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2,147 posts Joined: Mar 2005 |
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Jul 17 2012, 12:43 PM
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#174
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QUOTE(TryX @ Jul 15 2012, 12:43 AM) Today finally got time to wash my dirty car.. ouch.. ur paint will die sooner than you thought if you keep sending your car to that kind of carwash. Shouldve gone to proper carwash center with proper car wash detergent instead of this roadside carwash. Most proper carwash center only charge less than RM15 for wash and vacuum.» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Added on July 15, 2012, 11:15 amNowadays Kelisa club is getting quiet d.. I guess not much people are crazy about this car anymore. This car will be just a part of transportation we use to work everyday.. |
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Jul 17 2012, 01:12 PM
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#175
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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 17 2012, 01:05 PM) have u actually seen any proof of that?? no need to go far.. my car is. ive sent my car once a week to those kinda car wash and the paint was still good... did that for about 4-5 years... then repainted the car... and still did the same thing for about 2-3 years and still good. before this, I washed it on my own.. but got busy for awhile and sent the car to a regular carwash spot. RM7 wash+vacuum. They gave card saying 4 wash entitle for 1 free wash. Collected 7 wash already and now, (few months back) start to wash on my own.. the scratches are godlike. The hood paint is less flashy as it used to be. They look dull. |
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Jul 21 2012, 06:08 AM
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#176
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2,147 posts Joined: Mar 2005 |
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Jul 21 2012, 10:01 PM
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#177
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Jul 24 2012, 07:25 PM
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#178
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QUOTE(detomaso @ Jul 22 2012, 01:02 AM) no la... no videos... just simply travel thru lekas hiway at 150kmh++ rpm less than 4k rpm...go and back cost rm20 petrol.. k3ve only... k3ve2 payah mau cari and price quite close to k3ve-T... f/c lebih kurang sama dgn standard 1.0 engine. Pretty good la wei.. town f/c 450km for 60bux.. almost sama dgn stock engines la i guess... Added on July 25, 2012, 11:45 aman update, fixed the airbox rattling issue with a cable tie. ![]() just sharing how I did mine. It took me quite a while to think of proper way to replace the lost clip to lock the two box together. How I did the extra hole? get some thin (but strong) steel/aluminum plate with proper size (to insert the cable tie), heat it up to almost orange using your conventional kitchen stove and then simply pierce it through the plastic box. Might want to repeat for the other side as well. This post has been edited by farique: Jul 25 2012, 11:45 AM |
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Jul 27 2012, 07:10 AM
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#179
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QUOTE(NHK_1983 @ Jul 27 2012, 01:58 AM) really need to save on fuel cost? the downside of ngv is the tank. It will occupy the rear boot fully. No more space to put extra items. ngv better off with bigger car, bigger cc like Iswara, Persona, etc. Besides, kelisa is already fuel efficient. I could get 300km for RM35 spent on RON95. Control your right foot works wonder. |
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Jul 28 2012, 09:07 PM
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#180
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QUOTE(detomaso @ Jul 27 2012, 01:57 PM) 5.2k include halfcut+installation(wiring included) and aircond refills... own part, atf+engineoil+oil filter...not to mentioned, driveshaft+radiator+lowerarm+absorber use back what came with the car.. YRV ones will make ur tires "terkeluar" 2 inch..boleh join USDM gang hellaflush-toilet kita bako aje.. QUOTE(Azuma-kun @ Jul 27 2012, 02:18 PM) no cross member.. simply take out kelisa subframe (engine+gbox), drop it and shove in yrv subframe(engine+gbox) into the bay. All bolts in and you're done. Except the anti-roll bar needed to be torched to adjust the camber to almost kelisa's standard. QUOTE(WoeiChyuan99 @ Jul 27 2012, 03:30 PM) shuuuuu.... QUOTE(yorkhan @ Jul 27 2012, 03:44 PM) my fc estimate... rm1=10km....so rm10=100km.... best i got lasttime by sticking to 80kph... rm20=250km Id do the same thing if Im not in a hurry.. but lately hard to get RM1 per 10km la since running bigger rims. this is me driving alone la....and minimal aircond |
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