IINM, the card itself has an expiry.

Fog lamps are supposed to be yellow to penetrate fog. Having them white will make you look cool, but renders them useless. And being cool means you don't blind other drivers on the road.

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Feb 23 2013, 12:47 AM

White halogens employ a filter to make them white, which means you get less light and have them shining back at you in fog or rain.

Brake fluids leaking? Any resistance when depressing the clutch pedal?

A little late now, but when you step on the pedal does it engage the pushrod at the slave cylinder?

Just do a bi-weekly wax with a weekly wash. Washing every other day induces swirls onto the surface, so stick with a good wash/wax maintenance plan and your white car will look white.

I have a coating too, and I've already had my white for a year - believe me, a wax does wonders in terms of gloss, smoothness and protection. It's due to the hydrophobic properties of wax which is why dirt does not easily adhere to the surface. I once believed a coating will not need waxing, boy I was wrong.

The coating may be there, although it is easier to clean the dirt, still gets stuck to the coating eventually - especially when your car is parked outside.

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Mar 3 2013, 01:54 PM

Thinking of it now, I doubt the installer can tell whether a warranty is void by looking whether if it is waxed/polished - they usually instill that thought in you to ensure that you don't put the wrong, abrasive stuff onto the coating (cleaner wax, polish, compound, etc). Then again, the coating is a common glass coating anyway, safe to apply wax, not sure about sealants.

I'm using a spray wax, OCW to be precise. Just did a whole repertoire today - washed, rinsed, clayed, rinsed, dried, waxed. She looks even more awesome now

I'm having clutch problems myself - it engages fine but it does not engage smoothly, it feels like somewhere in the linkage that it's missing grease. However it only happens when there is a lot of clutching to do such as traffic jams so it's difficult to prove to the SC guys.

They can loosen, tighten or lubricate the shifter linkages (not sure of the name but it looks like a long black bar under the car that runs from the shifter to the gearbox) but that's about it. You could try lubricating the the joints at the pedal, it made stepping slightly easier as well.

Mine gets increasingly harder as I use the clutch, but the feel goes back to normal after it cools down. It feels juddery, like an old syringe when the rubber cover is worn; by doing the finger test the vibration seems to come from the slave cylinder, pushrod and clutch fork area. Annoyingly it's difficult to explain or exhibit the problem to the SC as by the time the car is parked in their garage it has cooled down by then.

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Mar 7 2013, 05:52 PM

I think it's only free labour for three years. May be wrong though

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Mar 14 2013, 06:06 AM

The code should be on a sticker on the firewall, visible from the engine bay.

Agreed. If you aren't planning to change, it may be good enough but aftermarket head units seriously perform much better for the same amount you paid for.

Features - there's too many to list. Wider equaliser range, time corrections, and filters to name a few.

I'm on Sierra Glow's coating as well, coincidentally. You will still need to care for your car's paint, although it is much more resilient to dirt adhering to the surface. I would still recommend a schedule of washing and waxing though.

Polishing is to remove visible and light scratches off the paint, not clean them. Everyone seems to get the purpose of polishing in car detailing wrong...

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Mar 31 2013, 10:29 PM

It really depends on the wax you use - I'm on Optimum Car Wax which is a spray wax. It applies very easily, does not streak and does not require buffing. Of course, all applied by hand too. The only downside is the durability, about two weeks at most with constant bombardment of Malaysia's erratic weather. One thing I love about OCW is the UV protection it provides, a sure-need.

You can go for paste waxes, or the brands you can't find in Malaysia (such as Collinite 845) as they generally last longer but they require serious effort in applying, up to the point where you might need a DA, or you will have a very tired arm at the end of the day.

I generally prefer spray waxes, not only they are easier to apply (especially for hard to reach surfaces, like your door jambs, spoilers, door handles) but good for retopping up applications (eg. bird takes a crap, remove with cleaner, clean area, re-wax). I have a few cars inside and outside of the house so I have a good estimate on how long it lasts. A weekly wash and a bi-weekly wax will do good (or if you see the beading gone, whichever comes first.)

Didn't see your previous posts, but are you getting an auto or manual?

I waited a month for my white 1.5 manual - problem was due to stock issues. Not many people like manuals, they say.

Really tired of the expected answers that a manual is to 'vroom vroom', not directly but because of a few things:

- lighter
- more control (the main point)
- cheaper maintenance
- more fuel efficient

Only downsides would be the exercise you get in traffic, and the poor resale value. But hey, what other full-spec car can you get that comes with a manual?

You gonna buy me one of that?

I'm just guessing, but there might be a relay which controls the unlocking when the ignition is switched off. Why don't you go back to the SC?

My guess is that the handbrake isn't properly disengaging, which keeps the drum brakes in a semi locked position.