I know it may sound from the dashboard, but try knocking on the front passenger door from the inside - do you still hear that sound?

If that's not the case, and it's from the passenger side - try driving with the glove box open or removed entirely? My squeaks used to come from the glovebox because the closing clip wasn't tight enough where it made room for wriggling.

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Jan 19 2013, 06:38 PM

H11 bulbs.

Can't be entirely sure, but likely yes. I know the old Myvi doesn't use the same bulbs though.

ARBs making cars quieter? Does it even make any sense?

It ain't a bad question - but I think it is human sense to question the legibility of it before asking others whether it makes sense.

Value of quality items do not depreciate, rather they appreciate as time goes by.

Try going back to Perodua's body works and repair centre near Giant?

Foglamps and projector lamps use H11. Highbeam lamps use HB3.

Giant USJ, near Mydin

Sealants are supposed to be placed before the waxing - you are right in this case, but Wash and Wax, as the name implies - has wax. You need a shampoo that strips the wax off before you apply sealant.

Not a problem. It's just that sealants have to be in contact with the clear coat for it to work, hence 'sealant'.

I'm an Optimum user - as their products are hard to obtain and at times pricey, I love ONR and OPC, they work very well for me.

It's not related to the steering column issue, but another issue altogether.

http://www.change.org/en-GB/petitions/datu...i-2011-models-2

There isn't a difference between solid and metallic colors, in terms of durability. The white turning yellowish is due to the clearcoat oxidizing, or with dirt embedded into the paint.

Also, IINM P2 uses single stage paint (clearcoat and basecoat mixed together). There's a good readup here.

Mine vibrates as well - shouldn't be a problem.

I have the 1.5 MT. The shifter's sloppy, paired with a mushy clutch - but I get by. Not much of a choice when we have so little full spec manuals in the market.

Rear speakers use a 3 screw layout compared to most aftermarket speakers which use a 4 screw layout, so you may have to perform drilling to mount it properly. To add, there isn't much reinforcement for the plastic door near where the rear speakers are located so it tends to rattle when you play heavy bass.

Otherwise, your FC and acceleration is much better than the equivalent auto. The MT uses hydraulics to engage the clutch rather than using a cable, and the fluids are shared with the brakes. Not sure about the rest, but I have problems with the clutch pedal getting stiffer as the car heats up. Turns out that there is insufficient lubrication between the slave cylinder pushrod and clutch fork, which I will rectify after CNY.

But yes, no regrets on a manual

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Feb 8 2013, 11:50 PM

It even rattles with the stock speakers on. Also, feel free to ask about anything else, simple or in-depth.

Have a great CNY.

The door has few clips which attach itself to the door chassis, but the isn't any at the speaker's closest corner. That area rattles against the door chassis.

As for your woofer, you don't have a choice - you'll have to take out the sub.

It's normal. It's due to the sudden current demand when the air-cond compressor kicks in.

It is normal.

Plastics and petroleum lubricants DO NOT mix.