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Model Kits GUNDAM & MECHA MODELLING THREAD V2, Share infos, tips & modification here

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infested_ysy
post Apr 12 2006, 11:17 AM

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QUOTE(StarGhazzer @ Apr 12 2006, 10:09 AM)
Well... RM 80 for an MG is a very good price, even though it might be an old MG kit. And I feel that the GP01 is a better looking model than the Athene, and of course, different people have different preferences...

Btw hzr77, where did you get the GP01? RM 80 for an MG... good deal... Too bad I'm kinda broke now.... gotta save up for a next model.
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O rly?

Amazon used to sell loads of old MG kits for USD$5 each. I recall someone reporting it happening quite recently too (forgot the site, some blogspot account, by a guy who frequently posts on dannychoo.com), whom bought 6 of them in one go o_O
infested_ysy
post Apr 12 2006, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(StarGhazzer @ Apr 12 2006, 01:44 PM)
amazon... not everyone buys from them and you have to consider the shipping costs when you buy online. you can get low prices from other online sites but add in the shipping fees and the price shoots up...

but one thing's for sure... those pieces of plastic are definitely overpriced... hell they're just plastic, and yet we willingly pay them for our own satisfaction. laugh.gif
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I calculated before. Buying only one kit from them would cost you around RM70 including shipping fees. Buy moar = cheaper.

Bandai's overcharged plastic is nothing compared to SHE's ridiculous full-transformation Getter/Gunbuster. They're the size of a regular 1/144 Gundam kit, only that they cost 200000yen or so o_O. Though I'm very impressed by the amount of engineering they managed to cram on the figurines (can transform Getter 1 to 3 without any extra parts, Gunbuster can split into 3 parts as seen on animu, and can deploy the 3284358765 canons from its arms/legs)

QUOTE
I wished the molds for the Gerbera Straight came with the colors. I left it untouched cause I dont have the resource to get to colors right. So it's just plain white. sad.gif

1: buy paintbrush (nylon brushes FTW!)
2: buy enamel/acrylic paints (I'm sure there are loads of shops over there selling them at reasonable prices, unlike in Melaka >_>)
3: buy retarder
4: mix paint and retarder
5: spend some quality time painting carefully
6: ?????
7: profit
infested_ysy
post Apr 13 2006, 03:33 AM

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QUOTE(sousuke @ Apr 12 2006, 10:07 PM)
air spray as in air brush? Toy City should have one for around RM500-RM700 last time (which was btw bout a year ago  sweat.gif )
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Why ToyCity...? O_o

Aren't the stuff they sell overpriced? At least, the Melaka branch does it. I can hardly imagine them making a profit otherwise (given how skyhigh their expenses should be, what with renting two HUEG lots in Parkson, and hiring like, 2 dozen of employees? O_O)
infested_ysy
post Apr 13 2006, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 13 2006, 01:11 PM)
which one is cheaper, tamiya or gunze? this is for the primer right? how abt the acrylic paints? normally how much do u pay for a can/bottle/watever ?

for the parts that dont need painting, i meant that the part is those that comes molded in the right color already. for example, freedom, do u paint its white parts too? (since u tear it off from the trees its already white)

oh, so the reason u guys dont use gundam markers is cos of the stroke marks? yeah i noticed that when i painted mine..i was wonderin how to get rid of those marks. so i guess the best solution is acrylic paint huh?

hmm, looks like i gtg toycity and find those stuff. anyone knows where i can get these cheap in malacca?
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I'd say Gunze. I remember a hobby shop somewhere in Ipoh (I forgot where, it's in a building where a whole floor is dedicated to shops that sells animu crap/gaming crap/pirated CD/model kit crap) selling those tiny Gunze paints (small, rectangular, long container) for around RM6 or so.

For painting parts with paints of the same color, it's entirely on your personal taste. Some just leave it as so, some elitist paint everything over to reduce the plasticky look of it.

Stroke marks? What kind of marker you're using? Felt tip? Coloring the surface over a few times more after the initial coat's dried can reduce the stroke marks (at least that's what I did when painting my 1/100 HG Heavyarms Custom-EW)

NO. Toycity (at least the one in Melaka) is made of lose and fail. Don't ever go there unless you're a rich ******* with loads of cash to burn. There's no model kit shop here that sells model supplies cheaply (or at all). So far I've only seen them selling Tamiya's acrylic paints, going at RM14~18 a pop, and a Tamiya acrylic thinner (say, around 1litre worth of it?)for RM35... O_O
infested_ysy
post Apr 13 2006, 03:48 PM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 13 2006, 01:53 PM)
recently my friend bought a 1/100 HG from a shop in gajah berang..he says its 100bux after haggling. thats quite cheap right? im not sure if that shop sells supplies or not..

the gundam markers that i have are the standard 6pack ones. well, coloring on top of a dried coat seems like a good idea, but sometimes i find that when i paint it, the bottom coat comes off..leaving a really nasty smudge. anyways, how many coats do u apply with a gundam marker?
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By right, 1/100 HG kits have a retail price of 2000yen, which translates to RM66. Which shop did your friend bought it from? There's two (not counting the third one selling Bendi crap) shops selling model kits at jalan Gajah Berang.

So it's felt tip then?

You're supposed to leave the paints dry (aka 'curing process') for a looooonnnngggg time before applying the second coat. Some even leave the painted parts over a day before applying the second coat.

Hurr I don't apply paints with Gundammu marker. I just black panel line'd them. Or outline the edges with the black panel line pen, before painting it with black acrylic for surfaces that are supposed to be black.
infested_ysy
post Apr 14 2006, 07:29 AM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 13 2006, 11:02 PM)
well, most of the time i see 1/100 HG's at 150+.. at jusco the freedom was 249.90 i think. during the anime event at my uni a few weeks ago, they were selling 1/144 HG's at 89.90. expensive compared to young_souls prices. must be all that importing costs and bloodsucking.

ah, the pen must be felt tip. im not sure though, cos ive always thought that felt tips are spongy or ink absorbing stuff (think Artline). this one is like hard plastic.

well, i left mine for a day, but still it happens. its like the new coat is dilluting the bottom one.

oh so wat acrylic paints do u use the? given the poor availabilty of supplies in malacca sweat.gif ... and where did u get em?
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Teen@Com is the name of the shop having a booth promo thing in MMU's animu wap event thingy.

Ah yes, the pen. I think either there's some problems with the batch, with the retarder being ineffective in the markers (I got it from Teen@Com too, the emerald green marker) or they're meant to be made of lose and suck. I'm frustrated of all the stupid careful reverse pumping required before using it everytime. I eventually opened the pen and just drew ink to my 000 brush and paint the visors of my Wild Falken.

Maybe you should also do the same thing as I did? I applied 3 layers of the ink on the Wurger's eyes. Have no problems with new coat cancelling previous coat (PROTIP: paint it quickly, I find the ink dries up rather quickly... perhaps a case of old, old markers with retarder not working efficiently anymoar?)

I use Tamiya's acrylic paints. Basic colors (yellow, white, black, red, blue) Got them from Jusco's.
infested_ysy
post Apr 15 2006, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 15 2006, 02:14 PM)
yeah teen@com. must be that shop. been there? i think 100bux per 1/100 kit is quite a good price.

i faced problems with my pen too! its like after a few strokes it will stop inking and i gotta scribble over paper to get the ink running again. irritating yaknow.. but good idea with drawing out the ink. too bad i got no brush. will Nylon paintbrushes do?

well, theres no doubt the ink will dry fast. its from the same pen after all.  though this could be an annoying problem..hmm. do u mix it with thinner? and doesnt ur brush get sticky and hard when the ink dries up?

oritey. thx for info. i shall go to juscos to look for em. the last time i was there i only saw spray cans. are urs the can or bottled ones?
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Yeah, I frequent that shop. Most of the overpriced plastic crap I have are bought from them. But whatever, given how screwed up Malaysia is with imported crap (I heard there's a compulsory 15% tax on everything imported, particulary hobbyist items), it's fine as long as you like them, I suppose... *has spent RM240+ for both 1/144 Wild Falken and Wild Wurger by Kotobukiya*

I think you're supposed to turn the white felt tip facing backwards, then push it gently on a piece of paper to draw ink, before turning it back again to draw... Then again the ink drying too fast may have been the problem of the ink content itself, so bleh. Nylon brushes are nice, I use them. I like how they would revert back to their original pointed tip whenever I use them.

I didn't mix with any thinner. And no, my brush didn't get sticky or hard when it dried up. I just washed the tip with running water after use.

I use the bottled acrylics. Canned ones are too expensive and from what I've heard, have little paint in it.
QUOTE(Sealsmaster @ Apr 15 2006, 05:15 PM)
I need some advise on the panel line drawing part.. what color did you guys use for gundam panel line drawing? Black(GM01) or Grey(GM02)??? Any advise on this?! I read from Danny Choo website and he's using grey boh!? icon_question.gif
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GM01 FTW!

It's entirely a matter of taste. If you want your model kit to look like the illustration/in the animu, you use GM01 only (since they use black color as their outline and panel lines and whatnot). If you want to have a somewhat realistic look to it, use some GM02 in some parts.
infested_ysy
post Apr 15 2006, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(Sealsmaster @ Apr 15 2006, 09:15 PM)
How bout painting? Did you guys paint your PG? Painted Gundam do look way coooler.. then those "untouched" version. thumbup.gif

<<Painted>>
http://www.dannychoo.com/slide/eng/gundam/...or+busy+people/
<<Untouched>>
http://www.dannychoo.com/slide/eng/gundam/...or+busy+people/
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Thankyou for telling us that, supreme master of the obviousness.
infested_ysy
post Apr 16 2006, 01:32 PM

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QUOTE(jhcj @ Apr 16 2006, 12:06 AM)
On another note...look what I got off Dark Lynx's hands:


biggrin.gif
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You're now doomed to complete the kit ASAP, and make even moar funny scenes out of it (slicing nodoka into half with the excalibur?)
infested_ysy
post Apr 17 2006, 08:22 AM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 17 2006, 06:02 AM)
nay, the felt tip isnt supposed to be turned backwards! i saw the guy at xl-shop, he just pressed it down on a piece of paper and the ink naturally flowed to the tip.

tell me abt it. nylon brushes were my favourite in art class. it pwns all the other kids' brushes! theres many varieties of nylon brushes yknow, and some are really neat.  but that was a long time ago. i really dont know where to buy em now sweat.gif

hey do u mix ur tamiya bottled acrylics paint with thinner? or is enamel the one that needs thinner? geez, slightly confused abt the types of paint.
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I never liked those Transformer crap. They looked silly when they're in robot mode. Not to mention they have crap articulation for most of the time (legs can't spread, so they look retarded while standing).

Okay, so the markers we bought are busted >_>...

The special kind of weasel's fur used for a brush is much better than a Nylon (has the elastic properties of a nylon, only better), though it's very expensive.

I do mix the acrylics with thinners. It dries slower and allow you to give an even paintjob on a large surface. I don't know about the enamel though, never used them.
infested_ysy
post Apr 17 2006, 03:35 PM

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QUOTE(jhcj @ Apr 17 2006, 02:03 PM)
ZOMG!
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BLASPHEMY!

Lowe is far to superior and awesome to get slashed into two by an emo kid. You should've at least made RedFrame do a shining finger on Impulse's head.
infested_ysy
post Apr 17 2006, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE(Dark Lynx @ Apr 17 2006, 04:15 PM)
(on a side note, wonder why blue frame comes with Lowe model + gai murakumo but red frame only lowe? )
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Blue Frame second L = love child of Lowe.
infested_ysy
post Apr 17 2006, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(jhcj @ Apr 17 2006, 05:32 PM)
As for the shining finger thing, well I would except that the hands are not poseable. I could probably do something with the Destiny though, I'll just have to play with camera angles to compensate for the Destiny's smaller scale.
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Open the fingers of Red Frame's hand and make it touch Impulse's head or something. Lowe accidentally discovered that attack during one of his encounters with Gold Frame during the OMG-RED-FRAME-GOT-HIJACKED-BY-ONE-OF-THE-ASTRAY-GIRLS arc.
infested_ysy
post Apr 17 2006, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(angrim @ Apr 17 2006, 09:07 PM)
hey guys a quick question here.

is there any news about any new models of the Nu-gundam coming out?
if not why in the world the MG grade nu gundam selling for rm 165 right now?
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NO.

You'd see us posting scans and pictars of the new upcoming model kits all over the place if they were to be made.

You think RM165 for a MG kit is cheap? Heh, rich bastards >_>
infested_ysy
post Apr 18 2006, 09:28 PM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 18 2006, 07:49 PM)
how come i dont see the redframe and blueframe in SEED? and Lowe and Gai..where did they come from? i dont recall seeing those fellas..but yet uncle wiki has got so many entries on em.
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There's some sidestory (MSV- Mobile Suit Variation) for SEED, mainly dealing with the three prototypes of the M1 Astray- Red/Blue/Gold Frame. The story is only available on the Astray/Astray R/Astray X/Destiny Astray, and on a novel Astray B.

The former deals with the story of Lowe and his Junk Guild, the latter deals with Gai's storyline which some parts were left out from the manga ever since he took off with Blue Frame that Lowe found.

Astray has 4 volumes, Astray R has the same story as Astray, only that it fills in the gap of some plots missing from the original manga. Both are done by different artists with very different drawing style. Astray X continues Astray/Astray R's storyline (you see Kira's defected clone here, piloting Hyperion, and Legend's prototype here). Destiny Astray takes part after Astray X, filling in some gaps that the failed SEED Destiny animu missed out (ie: original test pilots of the 3G, multi purpose of Impulse's sihoulette system).

Some interesting stuffs to note:
-Lowe used a OMG HAX pair of HUEG arms in the last volume of Astray R, which allows him to wield the OMG 100M LOOOOOOOOONNNNNGGGGG physical sword- Gerbera Straight
-Lowe > every pilot in CE universe. His creativeness in combat amuses me, verily (SHININGGGG FINGAAAA FTW!)
-Destiny Astray is about to get finished in Japan, and I heard that someone finally met with Destiny Impulse, yes, f***ing DESTINY IMPULSE
-Lowe suggested the black skin guy in AA to replace Freedom's head with GINN's head that he have in spare, in later volumes of Astray. There's even a drawing of it. I lol'd at that.
infested_ysy
post Apr 19 2006, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(hitler @ Apr 19 2006, 02:49 PM)
yay
finish assemble my strike rough + I.W.S.P last 2 days
now posting up picture

curse me coz i din pain them n paste anything, haha
juz assemble n lining up only  tongue.gif
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WINS FOR BUYING IWSP!

Fails for not coloring it. sad.gif
infested_ysy
post Apr 22 2006, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(StormV @ Apr 22 2006, 01:44 PM)
for human figures the smallest and more easy to find is 1/72 scale. just suitable to 1/100. although abit off too. or u can collect those 1/100 figures that come with MG kit.

wow...144 figures is really rare. Nice stash, Fodder Soldier~!!!!
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I don't think 1/144 military men figurines are rare over there in Japan. People there are so obsessed with tiny collectibles (there are ALOT of 1/144 WWII planes/tanks/ships being produced, it's not even funny), I bet 1/144 military men are all over the place, only harder to find compared to the same scaled tanks/planes.

And yes, the guy who did the Sentinel in maintainance diorama deserves to get shot dead, not get a prize for his shitty work. I doubt the guy ever watched/read up about Gundam series to care about the fact that Gundam units are usually 18m in height.
infested_ysy
post Apr 25 2006, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 25 2006, 07:18 PM)
blablabla OMG PAINTJOB IS SUPERIOR!
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The second guy modded his S-F (head and torso are obviously from MG Freedom, long, sharpened hip guns) to make it look superior

Paintjob's superior because he used airbrush. No stroke lines = obvious sign of usage of airbrush
infested_ysy
post Apr 25 2006, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(YenS @ Apr 25 2006, 09:37 PM)
ah, SF and freedom's torso's are slightly different. SF has got the golden thing in the center. is it possible to cr8 that on freedom's torso without making it look obvious?

and the head. i cant really tell but SF has got a triangle piece on the forehead. i guess that can be modded.
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Crazy batshit hax Japanese people have insane amount of modelling modification skills. You do not question their superiority in customizing/modding/scratch building a part of a model kit they have.

The head's clearly from MG Freedom, he just changed the V-fins (make the peg/hole smaller/larger to fit in the new V-fins)
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post Apr 26 2006, 08:30 AM

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QUOTE(jhcj @ Apr 26 2006, 12:05 AM)
Argh this is gorgeous.
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This is rip off marketting scheme.

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