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PC Audio HiVi / SWAN - Active Speakers (Version 2015), Back and Active

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keyoke
post Apr 24 2013, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(ben3003 @ Apr 24 2013, 09:03 AM)
never heard m50w before.. heavyarm say the clarity will not on par with x3, then i don bother to listen edi haha..
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x3 is very good for its size. the bigger brother x4 is costly lol
keyoke
post Apr 24 2013, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(ktek @ Apr 24 2013, 09:56 AM)

sp2500 is smaller to begin with. size does matter
anyway, nice setup u got rclxms.gif
want more rumbling bass? place it at room corner and adjust sub volume accordingly
port point to the wall facing u, distance close up about 5"
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true... size does matter. a swans m50w is alot better then sp2500 imo lols.

keyoke
post Apr 24 2013, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(ktek @ Apr 24 2013, 10:08 AM)
unlike home theater receiver or amp, PC cannot do the bass crossover job.
so, pc (line level) >h6 (high pass) >h4
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i placed my swans h10 in a corner rofl! dun really care oso... some says sub shouldnt place in corner.

but mine is sealed sub instead of ported. so tink doesnt matter

This post has been edited by keyoke: Apr 24 2013, 10:18 AM
keyoke
post Apr 24 2013, 10:36 AM

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QUOTE(ktek @ Apr 24 2013, 10:26 AM)
i suggest sp2500 put corner because it is ported sub, need wall reflection to gain deep bass.
h10 is seal sub. no port
u can try 1 "back wall" reflection instead of 2 wall (such as corner)
should give u cleaner bass line & less annoy outside ur room. haha laugh.gif
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hmmm meaning? mine is in a corner, back of sub is a wall, sides are cupboards and side of my computer table
keyoke
post Apr 24 2013, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(mizumi @ Apr 24 2013, 10:51 AM)
Vented/ported subs have holes in them to let air escape so you can make use of positioning to so call "boost" your bass.
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i understand this bro...

ours is sealed sub, thats y i placed it in corner instead of previously my swans M50w sub location which is under my table
keyoke
post Apr 24 2013, 03:44 PM

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QUOTE(ktek @ Apr 24 2013, 03:02 PM)
well, if u dont reflect the port, u cant get enough low & deep note from single 8" sub
i saw ur table pic, very tidy. if u already satisfy, leave it as is smile.gif
if like experiment, u may try this..
under table, sub face right. stick close to wall
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haha tink just leave it as it is ba. i spent quite sometime doing the cable management for my table LOL
keyoke
post Apr 25 2013, 07:55 AM

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QUOTE(ben3003 @ Apr 24 2013, 09:33 PM)
ok i tried tilt it down, now i feel some better bass lolz... maybe tilt too high..
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THere will always be a spot outside ur room where u will find e bass is overwhelming lol. Mine oso same thing.
keyoke
post May 2 2013, 07:26 AM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 1 2013, 01:08 PM)
couldnt wait any longer already laugh.gif
[attachmentid=3419415]                     [attachmentid=3419417]
For now, it sounds great, but not awesome yet, have been running for 4 hours only. But Cyntrixtech what about those settings behind the H4s? For HF anf MF I know adding a sub shouldnt affect those, but what about LF and the HP?

Since Im using a H10 now, does the LF part doesnt matter anymore since the low frequency is being handled by the sub?

the HP is at 72Hz now, meaning that the satellite  will handle until 72Hz only right before passing on to the sub? the sub is at 80Hz now since "direct" will sort of turn off the sub. So wouldnt there be a conflict between the sub and H4 when playing sound between 72 and 80 Hz? hmm.gif

Im really blur now lol, so maybe all the sifus here can give some enlightenment notworthy.gif

maybe keyoke can also share his experience? smile.gif
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LF imo still plays a part. mine was left at -1 as it sounds too boomy and spoils the clarity.

HP can leave it at 72Hz as its nearer at 80Hz. Direct will turn off the sub completely. there will be conflict but not alot =) swans do not allow consumers to adjust the crossover other then direct and 80hz

im currently playing with my dad's 12 inch B&W sub

user posted image

u are using lancool k62 case?

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 2 2013, 09:07 AM
keyoke
post May 2 2013, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 2 2013, 01:55 PM)
-1 eh? hmm.gif will try and see whether it helps in clarity or not. Yeah i thought this will have a nice crossover adjuster laugh.gif at least if wanna try out audio without sub is easy, just change to direct smile.gif

actually, I'm using K58, sharp eyes you have tongue.gif really nice case which haven't gave me any reason to change nod.gif
and man, that is HUGE!! does it play well with the H4? hmm.gif not bad, have a dad who is interested on this stuff also thumbup.gif
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yea, somehow the h4 sounds boomy hence i went to adjust it. i also thought this would have a nice crossover adjuster but well it doesnt.

yes it plays well with the H4. somehow the soundstage is wider if i hook the h4 on the b&w. bass is much more precise and less boomy when im on the B&w. but of cos, the B&w cost 1.2k per sub. so cant really compare with the swans. its huge, but i gonna swap back soon.

glad ur room have place for shifting of the sub, mine doesnt, maybe thats the reason why it sounds boomy in my case

haha, i have used K62 before, hence i know that its a lancool case.

does ur h10 sub heatsink feels hot after 2 hrs of usage? biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 2 2013, 03:21 PM
keyoke
post May 2 2013, 03:43 PM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 2 2013, 03:22 PM)
Hopefully they have something internally to make the H series sub and speaker to blend well so that clash between 72hz and 80hz isn't too bad hmm.gif

Wow, bigger sound stage by changing subs? Maybe you might need some bass traps to make the H10 less boomy? Btw, what are your system, speaker and master volume on the sub like? I think I'm only at 12.5 % now after taking into account all three volumes lol, guess my room is very small for this speakers laugh.gif

But seriously, the placement of the sub makes a HUGE difference in my case. Just a little distance difference meant getting either super boomy bass which makes you nauseated, or really nice, smooth, and actually sounds different while playing difference songs shocking.gif

It's pretty amazing really how sound travels across the room and how a little bit of placement tweaking can make a whole lot of difference.  Oh yes, may I ask what is that below the H4s that you are using to bring the speakers to ear level? biggrin.gif
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its a self diy wooden block.

my speaker is at 50% vol, master vol at 50%, sub vol at 50%. system sound is at 50% most of the time

yea it does make alot of difference. my room doesnt have much space to play around with subwoofer placement. so i jus place it at one corner.

bigger sound stage cos i tink the crossover used in the h10 and the b&w is different. mine sounds boomy. might be due to placement haha. glad that ur room got space to let u shift around.
keyoke
post May 2 2013, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 2 2013, 03:57 PM)
Need to find something to raise the speakers doh.gif

Lol, exactly the same volume settings, just maybe my sub volume is slightly lower.

At that position in the pic before, standing right in front of the sub gave me boomy bass, standing while facing o the right side of the sub makes it completely boomy. Sitting on my chair gave zero bass,as if I don't have a sub lol  and after moving the sub to the opposite direction about 1m,and bam! Everything works just like it should. rclxub.gif

Need to try some songs with lots of cymbals and other high frequency to see whether the HF level is good or not.
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lol, u might wanna show where is ur sub placed at now? i have exactly the same problem lol!

but my room has limited space in shifting lol!

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 2 2013, 04:24 PM
keyoke
post May 2 2013, 04:40 PM

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QUOTE(ktek @ May 2 2013, 04:37 PM)
subwoofer langgar phase with main speaker.
either u turn the "0-180 phase" knob at subwoofer
or terbalik the red and black wire
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ohhh. so it doesnt makes any diff in placement?? mine is already at 180 phase
keyoke
post May 2 2013, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(ktek @ May 2 2013, 04:57 PM)
0-180 phase work this way:

0 phase
u play a low note.
main speaker cone push, subwoofer cone also push.
becos of wall reflection, subwoofer push sound will be bounce back inverted become pull.
push + pull sound will cancel off each other = bass dissapear, u lose detail

user posted image

---------------------------------------------------
180 phase
u play a low note.
main speaker cone push, subwoofer cone pull.
becos of wall reflection, subwoofer pull sound will be inverted become push.
push + push sound will overlap, boost the sound level = more bass, but no detail loss.

if this happen, adjust crossover to lower hz or turn down sub volume to prevent over boom.
the sympton above can happen vice-versa, so test ur own 0-180 phase
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thanks for enlightening me.

i have been playing with phase switch alot tbh. but dunno why, i find that 180 sounds better but muddy. but after i switch it back to 0 today, its a different story -,-!

dunno why suddenly liddat -,-! i tink at first im too into heavy but undetailed bass

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 2 2013, 06:50 PM
keyoke
post May 2 2013, 11:17 PM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 2 2013, 10:31 PM)
[attachmentid=3421497]

have you tried putting the sub under your table? on your right? but my table is not all the way to the back, touching the wall, maybe thats why my bass isn't really boomy now? hmm.gif but this is a sealed sub, so isn't corner not suppose to make any difference?

I might need to find a way to reduce that "extra bass" sound from going to other rooms though doh.gif

sometimes when the speaker is playing loud, if I go downstairs, the bass note is pretty annoying lol.
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Nt sure if its placebo or wad. I swapped by the h10,and adjust the phase switch to 0, it sounds alot better then when its at 180. Of cos at 180 the bass is louder but lost alot of details and sound very boomy

Mine nw is still at corner as thats e only place i can put. I tried under the table, the bass is absorbed by my wood table, hence cant hear much bass but my table is shaking as it absorbs the vibration

Some says the phase switch is only used when u run more then one sub, is that correct?

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 2 2013, 11:19 PM
keyoke
post May 3 2013, 07:24 AM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 2 2013, 11:47 PM)
Yup, moving it just a meter to my left made the bass completely disappear at the place I sit. But where it is now it's just awesome thumbup.gif
Will need to read up more on this two stuff. Will really need it to reduce complaints from others in my house tongue.gif
Didn't play much with the phase switch as it didn't feel like it was making any difference hmm.gif will need to try again as I only played with it when the sub was at the non optimum position.
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same lor lols! but not sure why only yest i hear differences between the phase switching lol! but glad that it sounds better now!
keyoke
post May 3 2013, 09:01 AM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 3 2013, 08:50 AM)
Maybe they only start making a significant difference after burn in? Anyway, glad its not boomy for you anymore thumbup.gif

Yesterday i left the system turned on with nothing playing and no fan/AC. when i came back, the sub felt like it can be used for BBQ ready tongue.gif

But i think should be ok la, coz for example those tube amplifiers some ppl use for their stereo system, only once its heated up it sounds good, according to them, so even if these are not using the same thing, the heat should be fine, just ppl like us who are used to completely cool speaker sustem need to get used to this kind of systems haha.

Oh yes, that audio/video setting behind the sub also im not sure of the difference. Will need to test out more.
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i find that there isnt any diff LOL! cos im like switching it ard yesterday. let me know ur findings.

and yea it doesnt sound boomy to me anymore. errr mine more or less shld be burn in already as i am using it for 1 month+ to 2 months already. when my phase switch is at 180, it sounds super boomy and with no detail. so i switch back to phase 0, and realise its totally different. not sure if its placebo effect or not. anyone can advice on this?

yea its hot even when its not in use (nothing playing). From wad i understand, it uses class AB amp. i measured its power consumption which is around 60 watt when nothing is playing. yes indeed we are used to completely cool speaker system as i tink it uses Class D amp lol
keyoke
post May 3 2013, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 3 2013, 09:15 AM)
That much difference with just the flick of a switch hmm.gif 
Will test extensively today, but i think i might need to wait till it burns in to feel the difference, will see how it goes, pretty interesting stuff haha.

Yup my previous was class D. Couldn't make it warm even after playing loud for a whole day. But then again this set which has hardly burned in, is eating a 2 year old sp2500 like nobodies business laugh.gif

So can just close one eye about the heat issue tongue.gif
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yea thats why... some says flicking of phase switch wont hear a difference. i tink thats because of the room design and placement maybe?

some says placing sealed sub in a corner will have no difference.
some says placing sealed sub in a corner will enhance the bass effect
some says placing any sub in a corner will result in muddy bass but bigger sub output

can someone advice on this?

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 3 2013, 09:55 AM
keyoke
post May 3 2013, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(ktek @ May 3 2013, 10:09 AM)
the best way to check ur phase is use test tone software, such as SinGen 1.2 (freeware)

start with 0 phase, low volume. set maximum hz crossover at sub, LF++ at speaker (in order to maximize the effect of overlap)
play a tone about 90-120hz which makes both speaker & sub exercise.
u listen closely to speaker, then switch 180 phase to check any cancelled out tone.

u can also check room mode reverb (usually 60-90hz) to reduce boom2 sound outside of room

in my opinion, sub (seal or port) should be located near 1 wall to get efficiency & great low frequency effects biggrin.gif
u dont have to turn volume up causing  it leaks outside room.
recommend 2 adjecent wall (like corner) for little sub below 8" only

some says down firing sub is easiest to get good sound whistling.gif hoping hivi can make 1
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hmm, so just by hearing aint good enuff?
I just feel that i lost alot of detail in bass when i set it to 180. is that the "cancelled out tone" which you mention?

my sub is placed in a corner (1 wall at a back, side is wooden cupboard lol)

i got leaks outside the room LOL! very heavy bass at 1 position outside my room. but bass inside the room is already just nice. i will not like any lowering of bass for my sub already

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 3 2013, 10:17 AM
keyoke
post May 3 2013, 10:47 AM

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QUOTE(ktek @ May 3 2013, 10:29 AM)
yup, i believe 180 not suitable becos u sub facing front which is same direction as H4.
when H4 push, sub pulls back the bass =cancelled out liao

haha, try it during free time smile.gif

H10 more like hiding in tunnel tongue.gif
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no wonder, i heard 180 phase is only used when i place the sub behind where i am sitting. who will place sub in that kinda position laugh.gif

but thanks for ur help bro. it sounds alot better now compared to when its at 180. it sounds super muddy and boomy at 180. my dad was like saying: "why ur bass liddat? worst then ur swans m50w subwoofer".

I tell him: "i also dunno why liddat. i thought it was supposed to be deeper, tighter and even more accurate then the swans m50w"

laugh.gif icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by keyoke: May 3 2013, 10:52 AM
keyoke
post May 9 2013, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(arslow @ May 5 2013, 12:26 PM)
ok, have been testing the 0 and 180 phase a lot for music game and videos and it seems to be 180 has a more pronounced bass level compared to 0, but not to the extent of being boomy, so I'll leave it at 180 nod.gif
btw, guys try listening to Illegal Bass by Bass Outlaws....might wanna reduce the volume before starting to play it, confirm your walls, furniture and everything will shake laugh.gif

don't dare to play this with my default  volume lol sweat.gif
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mine is opposite form urs... 180 sounds boomy, 0 sounds more detailed and not boomy. 180 sounds boomy and 1 note

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