Might just install it tomorrow for the fun of it.

Thanks for stopping by bro!

The aquaero is a dinosaur, but still works great. will PM you shortly.

one more submission deadline to meet and I will be backkkkk!

in the mean time, does anyone know what I can use to patch up a space after I de-badge my case and would withstand powder coat temperatures? I'm thinking along the lines of epoxy and bondo perhaps? Anyone got an idea?

Don't need glue. lol. I need to fill up a "hole".

Epoxy is what I need, but I can't seem to find a high temperature resistant epoxy.

And Scotch 4010 is tape, which I definitely won't need to fill the hole.

Thanks for the suggestions though.

This post has been edited by pristine: Apr 23 2013, 12:12 AM

True. But went ahead and got one anyway since the passive sink was out of stock.

Found the stuff to patch the void!

Hello Thermosteel! Takes up to 1316 degrees C.


Also, since my previous masks have to be thrown away and I can't seem to find the same kind, I've upgraded. Hello new mask!


This post has been edited by pristine: Apr 23 2013, 06:37 PM

Definitely, but hey at least it'll be powder coatable.

I'm impatient too. Hoping to send for powder coating soon. Still need some of your parts coated?

Definitely will PM you when I confirm dates for the powder coating.

water block for the Aquaero 5 lt. FINGERPRINT MAGNET. Definitely will need to polish it before using. Wonder whether stainless steel polish would work. Otherwise I guess tomato sauce it is.

Need some input for those who're following my build.

Which would you go for, a full cover mobo block that's made for your board:

image from liquid-extasy

or

A universal option, which would require you to buy like, two units + a NB block.

image from koolance

Would appreciate ANY input.

This post has been edited by pristine: Apr 25 2013, 01:16 AM

Sadly aurora is more for show pcs and will deteriorate in performance/daily use rigs.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Appreciate it! Keep it coming.

Some items came today, but they don't really demand photos. Haha.

Been working on an acrylic piece to give my 360 grill more... "body" and it's taking some time since I'm DIY-ing it. Dremel, sanding drum, file. Will probably flame polish it too, but I need to finish the piece first.

Also, I plan on changing my pump to a D5/655, so if anyone's interested in grabbing my brand new 35X which is modded out with the Koolance heatsink, and has an Aquacomputer DDC top which is optional, let me know - I'd be happy to sell it to you.

And I will probably repaint my radiators. Question is black or white? My case exterior will be white, interior black. I'm thinking black, what do you guys think?

Need to drill out a few more holes for drain ports and for cable management and cut out more aluminium from here and there before I can get it powder coated.

Still got a long list of things to be done before I can actually call this build finished. Most of it being aesthetics.

Thinking the same thing. Will probably use flat black paint.

Got myself a vernier calliper to measure the dimensions of the stock heatsink to see possible block options since I was thinking of getting enzotech forged nickel plated copper blocks.

Guess that idea's a no go. Will be buying Liquid-Extasy's MPower Full Cover VRM water block in black delrin and hopefully nickel plated.

Does anybody know anyone who can do nickel plating fit for watercooling use? Not chroming.

Made a trip to the hardware store for some painting supplies for the radiator. Forgot the tack cloth though.

photos taken with phone
Rust-oleum primer and flat black enamel paint!


Some wet/dry sandpaper to get rid of the old paint and finish the new one when I'm done.


Just left a tack cloth and maybe some gloves before I start repainting my radiators.

shuhong90, difference about wet and dry sanding is wet allows for better finish, the sand paper won't gunk, and less stuff gets into the air.

This post has been edited by pristine: May 1 2013, 09:51 PM

I'm hoping it'll look good too. Haha!

Wow. Nice case. Gonna powder coat/spray over the anodized layer or gonna remove the layer first?

This post has been edited by pristine: May 2 2013, 06:36 PM

ohhh. post a photo once you're done!

First I apologise for the delays in my worklog. Exam month. But now that it's over, I can get back to work!

Started sanding my radiator today. Cheap looking paint, but thick cheap looking paint. Will need to go out to get coarser sand paper later and continue sanding tomorrow.

Also, plans to change my 35X to a D5 is confirmed, meaning I need to do some more modifications to my A05NB. Which also means some delay in sending it for powder coating.

Will be removing my 5.25" bay rails so I can "hang" my Aquaero from the top of the case.

And because of this I need to redo my side panel window.

Not sure if I mentioned this, but my 7950 needs to be RMA-ed as well. Artifacting like no tomorrow.

So much work for the weeks ahead.

Stripping the paint from my radiators is probably the worst idea for this project. Seems like Alphacool uses baked enamel paint for their radiators which is a pain to remove. Will probably take me a week or two and a LOT of sand paper to clean them up.

If anyone has any recommendations to remove baked on enamel paint, I'm all ears. All I can think of is either using acetone I have in my cabinet or going out and buying paint stripper/MEK.