hi, sorry not been too much help. Just sharing some tips n info which i believe many of u already know.

About tyre pressure. I believe all of us keep our tyre inflated as stated@recomended@printed at the car door coz over @ under inflated can effect on fc, tyre thread, ride n handling n most important part, safety. What printed or stated at the door is actually cold tyre pressure. When u drive ur car around 1.5km, its already hot, if u fill the air after that, its not that accurate.

The easiest rule of thumb to remember is always add another 4 psi when pump in the air coz hot air will cause ur tyre pressure increase 4 psi than cold tyre pressure. Meaning that if u already drive more than 1.5km, if u fill in 30psi(by looking at the pump meter), meaning that the hot tyre pressure is 30psi, but the real cold tyre pressure is only 26psi. So, if recommended tyre pressure 30psi, need to pump in 34psi, then the real cold air pressure is 30psi as recommended.

I know this is nothing, just sharing something. Bye, happy weekend.

one more thing, front tyre pressure is higher than rear coz front of the car is heavier due to the engine n ff layout. So, make sure pump in according to the recomended as stated for front n rear n never pump same presure for both.

One more thing, popular belief, if front wheel drive car, when change tyre, the new one must put infront, for rear wheel drive, new one shud be at the rear. Actualllly,when change tyre, make sure the rear get the latest one coz most of cars are front wheel drive, so, on front wheel, it gets the most traction, while at the rear, it gets less traction coz nothing drive it. So, better put a better traction tyre behind@rear coz its help the rear to get better traction.

Unless driving avanza, beemer, merc@any rear wheel drive car, put the new one at the rear.

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Added on September 9, 2012, 9:07 pm Try checking cfe air filter, if i not mistaken, its diff than iafm+ unit, n its last longer n expensive than iafm+ unit. Iinm, its hflow type.

This post has been edited by mat79: Sep 9 2012, 09:07 PM

about engine stall when engage reverse gear, try to confirm with sc whether ocv is at fault coz iinm there is a recall on affected ocv recently.

Car dont move during traffic light, i think there is a glitch among sensors causing the cvt clutch keep open. If the cvt icon dissappear n never return until 20 times start, the fault code will be cleared coz it thinks it just minor glitch, but if persist, please check it asap so that can detect the probs.

its not ocv in ur case. I hope u already update with latest version of engine adaptation program. Since using dbw@drive by wire, u need to rev a bit more to move since it doesnt transfer 100% throttle input during start to move, due to emmision cntrl,sometimes call throttle lag for dbw.
Try rev between 1.5k-1.8k rpm when start to move from 1st gear. Iinm, u will see the rev drop automatically a bit even if u maintain the pedal at same pressure, but it wont stall the car.I think that shud solve ur probs.

But try to check with sc whether they already update with latest version 1st as arthur inform earlier. Same apply to cfe on the program coz they r some reports earlier on the stalling. ocv only for cfe n being recalled to those affected according certain batch number.

But no harm checking ocv for cfe if encounter the same probs.

Hopefully this help.

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Added on September 10, 2012, 4:35 pmThis post has been edited by mat79: Sep 10 2012, 04:35 PM

as far ive been informed, iafm+ is actually a derivation from cfe,while retaining original campro cubic capacity. While cfe has cvvt component n discard iafm coz using fix resonance plus turbo, iafm+ just a cfe without turbo n cvvt while retaining iafm unit.

Iafm unit still the same, but material used a bit diff(thats why some wear n tear part schedule same as cfe except for plugs n air filter). Besides, previous iafm using 16 bit ems 700 ecu load based ecu while iafm+ using 32 bit easy ecu torque based n of coz calibration is totally different.

And for drive terrain, prev iafm mated with mitsu 4at trans while iafm+ using punch cvt unit n powerloss on trans will be diff coz 4at using torque con while cvt using clutch which giving direct link to the wheel almost like manual.

Less is more, that is what iafm+ compare to iafm, even with reduce hp(but achieve it at lower rpm), but if compare to the loss of trans, it still gives more than iafm 4 at unit.

Of course driving uphill full load will have effect even cvt coz even for turbo charged, u can still feel the diff compare to drive on flat road. But if using prev iafm on preve, it will cause severely undertorque n power compare to iafm+.

Bye.

persona elegance has a bit change in its engine, that is the ecu, but the engine is the same as prev iafm. Only ecu change, from 16bit to 32 bit unit. Still using 4at trans. Never heard that new baseline using iafm+ n cvt. only cosmetic(sport rims) n additional pass airbag include.

About discomfort on sc especially, please write to i care@use the complaint form available in sc. Includes the service invoice number as reference. I know some may say that its a waste of time, but if the report received by good hands, it still can make a diff.

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Added on September 12, 2012, 3:28 pmpersona elegance has a bit change in its engine, that is the ecu, but the engine is the same as prev iafm. Only ecu change, from 16bit to 32 bit unit. Still using 4at trans. Never heard that new baseline using iafm+ n cvt. only cosmetic(sport rims) n additional pass airbag include.

About discomfort on sc especially, please write to i care@use the complaint form available in sc. Includes the service invoice number as reference. I know some may say that its a waste of time, but if the report received by good hands, it still can make a diff.

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Added on September 12, 2012, 3:32 pmand if they make a last change about persona, i dunno about that.

This post has been edited by mat79: Sep 12 2012, 03:32 PM

if i not mistaken, it is Ngk iri ix tr61x. But u can check through the owner's manual.

yup, they r selling it at rrsp from oem. Its like buying petronas oil at petronas and spare part shops. With duly respect, i think all manufacturers have to sell it according to rrsp. Even hondas iridium for city cost rm 100 per piece, but its cheaper outside. Just becareful the immitation one.

for city driving,when stopping using footbrake and want to move again, let it roll by itself forst before apply throttle, u can see the rpm rise automatically around 1-1.2k rpm,the rpm wont drop when rev coz clutch already closed, n rev around 1.8k rpm max or lower if u dont want to speed up more than 90kmh. Only use turbine assist when needed @ 2k rpm. Hope this help.

for cfe, not iafm+. I did mentioned before turbine spooling :-). For iafm+ manual preve, i think around 120nm++ shud be ok, it shud be around 2.5k rpm to 3k rpm max for town driving. While cvt iafm+ 2k rpm to 2.5k rpm shud be enough. Unless need more pulling power. Bye.

forget to mentioned, for flx se manual(dunno whether its already been scrapped or not), starting 2k rpm, u can feel the powerband start coming, but preve manual around 3k rpm due to weight. However, for cvt,its a diff story due to cvt operation is diff compare to fixed gear. cvt will try to match the ratio with engine speed, and being infinte is its advantage.

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Added on September 25, 2012, 9:26 am Yup, if u r cruising, but stop n go sitution, heavy traffic,for me its consume more.

This post has been edited by mat79: Sep 25 2012, 09:26 AM

of course crusing at 90kmh give u better fc, but what i mentioned before is for stop n go situation, heavy traffic, not cruising. On cruising mode, the diff is neglible (there is diff, but not too much)between 100kmh or 120kmh coz speed is maintain.

By the way, during stop n go traffic, better let the car roll by it self first(clutch closed) then apply throttle, then u will see it is easier to control throttle n it gives better response compare to instantly rev after release the foot brake. Hope this help. Sorry, not much contribute nowadays to the forum coz out of reach.

hi all, the recomended pressure at the side door is cold inflation pressure. After the tyre rolling about 3 minutes@above or 1.5km or above, the tyre is getting hot. Yup, the gas pressure increase due to heat coz hot air is lighter than cold air, so, the pressure of hot air tyre is not accurate coz it will increase around 4 psi than cold air pressure as per recomended at the door side. So, when fill in the air according to the cold tyre pressure in hot tyre will be inaccurate(meaning whether over or under inflated). So, it is recomended to increase to 4 psi to cater the correct amount of cold inflate pressure. If worried it become over, just fill 2 psi beyond cold inflate pressure recommended, unless u r fill the spare tyre, or new change tyre(which obviously cold coz the tyre dont roll yet on the road)then need to follow the cold tyre inflate pressure.

Unless when the recomended is 30psi for example, but when checking the hot air tyre pressure 36psi, then need to reduce to 34psi or it will be over inflated. But if the hot tyre pressure is around 30psi, while cold inflate pressure is 30psi, actually ur tyre is under inflated coz when it cold, the reading shud be around 26psi, which is under inflated than recommended pressure.

But, thats just sharing info,like many forumers said sharing is caring. Nonetheless, in the end, its up to u to decide.

So, as conclusion, increase 2 to 4 psi compare to cold tyre inflate pressure recommended when fill up hot tyres. Bye for now

another points, punch cvt was tweak to give optimum efficiency for town driving in cvt mode up to 80kmh. Meaning that, the rpm shud be around 1.8k max for town driving. For cfe, i dun think its will be undertorque coz still a lot of torque generated at that rpm, only for iafm+ on preve, yup, u will feel its slow. But for iafm+ version, u may rev until 2.2-2.5k rpm in town driving(coz preve is heavier than saga flx, need more torque to pull it, while in flx, 2krpm shud be enough,then release the throttle when reach desired speed around 60-80kmh town driving), but slowly release the pedal to low the rpm when the speed reach between 60kmh-80kmh.

If u notice, when stoping with footbrake, the rpm will reduce down to nearly 600rpm, that is improvement on punch cvt to reduce fuel in stop n go situation, but the contra is that it takes a bit of time after release the footbrake before the clutch closed n rpm raise back to normal operation. Thats why rpm is lower when u r stop using footbrake compare to idle in neutral gear. But it is advisable to slot to neutral if u stop for long period, rather than use footbrake coz it will coz the clutch to overheat, but that is really rare unless u stop at a really long period.

i agree on accountability part of toyota in recalling their cars. Agree also some grey area in malaysian automotive industry. But then, i think the recall made coz its involve safety matters. And if check back the cars they recall on recent recall practice, i think the latest is 2009 model, which takes them around 3@4 years after production before doing the recall. Im not bashing,just stating my thought only. If doing the same comparison, maybe prtn shud do a recall around 2015@2016 for preve, 3@4 years after production.

But if prtn does it early than toyota,meaning that less than 4 years, does the recall show a good thing or not? but i think depend on the market n perceptions. On certain view, recall is bad, but on certain, its good.

For me, both. Good for current user. But may give bad perception in the future. thats my humble opinion only. Diff people,diff view.but i really hope prtn solve all the problems maturely even if its need an urgent recall.(its a norm if involve safety aspect in any manufacturer)

one more thing, i believe all manufacturers when they already found the permanent solution to the problems. Sometimes it takes years to solve, thats why some recall being done years after production...

have u guys ever tried test cvt character versus at to gauge diff in feeling, i mean test preve cfe side by side with forte 2.0 maybe to 100kmh just by reving around 2k rpm both cars. Coz driving cvt gives feeling that its catch up speed slower than conv at, but do they in real world comparison? Maybe izputra can gives some input?
Its not drag racing by the way, just regular driving side by side.

If drive one, then jump to another, hard to gauge coz the feeling. Just to know public opinion if driving side by side.

hi all. I do think over cranking is related to vvt component which sometimes call oil starvation. If it is severe, always have it or it is too long, thats why its recommend to change owv. If only occur during cold start n its short, and dont occur after that. That is i think just short oil starvation coz it takes a bit of time around couple of scnd before oil enter the vvt component. That is why i recommend thinner oil rating coz easier to flow to vvt component. Yup, one may argue about winter grade n etc, but this is not about the wheather, but the characteristics of oil. Thinner n lighter oil easier to flow compare to thicker n heavy oil. Sometimes overcrank on vvt sometimes known as knocking during start. As i know, it wont hurt ur engine, but do agree its annoying.

One more thing, please check your oil level, make sure it is on max level. If not, please top up.This is really crucial thing for vvt equip car.

If ocv valve dont solve the issue, maybe ask them to reflash new adaptation(if yours the old version). Another note, dont rush to change between d to r coz i think if too fast, sometimes from normal pulley operation in d change to planetary gear in r to give fixed ratio when reversing can mismatch, thus causing the stalling.
On another note also, try not to press too deep the brake which causing the rpm drop low than normal idle operation, press just enough to stop the car from move. Hopefully this can solve ur problems.
By the way, this is not official claim by proton, just my thought sharing with u guys with intention to share n help each other.

its not engine knocking, but mostly related to vvt part. Some mistaken the vvt knocking sound as timing chain sound mostly found during cold start for famous vvt engine. Actually, most of the times is vvt sound when cold start. Rarely the timing chain. Thats why some vvt engine owner said during cold, the engine sound rough, but when heated up for sometimes, the sound disappear.

im not dsz by the way :-), though my link with prtn seems loosing nowadays, maybe busy with restructuring.

Erm, on ecu part, i think need to wait coz not only approval, testing procedures really takes sometimes for validity, atleast general reliability test by hnt around 100k km.

About stiff pedal, i think they cut the carpet which obstruct the pedal movement, but maybe the newer one does not need to do so. As mentioned, i'm nearly loosing my link with them nowadays :-).

Iinm, starter motor for iafm+ n cfe is the same coz cfe using iafm+ basis, sharing most of the part albeit a bit diff component needed for vvt n turbo n diff calibration to suit it. Maybe i just unnoticed it b4 if its using the diff unit.

Sorry cant be much help.