i think they have reset the ecu, not reflashing. Adaptation is on tcu currently.

Diff people has diff driving style. But actually, diff type of transmission needs diff driving technique. For example, amt n tcg need to release a bit when changing gear not like driving fully auto. But most people just flooring like fully auto. Its fine but to optimise it, need to use diff technique. Same as cvt, whether full cvt@sat mode, whether to gain power @ efficiency. generally, nearly the same.

While punch cvt optimise using clucth, wet clutch specifically, it as almost the same as manual,amt@tcg, the character. Only that tcg release clutch faster due to it has another clutch on standby. If u have driving amt@single clutch gearbox, then u understand how it works. Nearly the same character as punch cvt, the diff is how it operates mechanically inside n the ratio.

is not huge leon coz of cvt, even preve is heavier than flx se. But due to its weight, preve is kinda lazy from idle to move, but once its move, more or less the same. Unless u r love to drive beyond 140kmh, then flx se will suit u better, but preve exec can catch u easily if used S mode, but flx se in D modelah :-). But if u r talking about handling stability n cornering, flx se will loose at that speed with preve exec. If u got the money, preve exec is bargain for u, but if u want to save up for petrol n maintenance, 10k diff is huge, u can used the extra money for that. And preve using 16 inch tyre n all around disc brake which price higher than flx se 15 inch tyre n drum brakes on rear. Othe cost of regular maintenance, the same.

hi, i dont really recommend u to increase the idling timing higher than standard coz it may cause ur campro based engine to become hotter than usual.

By the way, about the lag, its drive by wire lag. Main concern is to control emmision. For auto related car, its not really obvious(but still can feel the lag), but for manual using dbw throttle, more or less the same from initial throttle input. I'd never driven japs manual dbw equips cars, but had driven euro manual equips with dbw throttle. The effect during initial launch, almost the same, even for a bimmer.

Maybe u shud read up more on dbw throttle and learning through it how to minimise the lag. They can sharpen the throttle, but it come with a cost, emmision. Since preve is quite heavy, the lags is apparent even compare to flx 1.3 manual. Just rev a bit more than usual than u drive cable equip manual car, then it shud be ok. When its on the move, it shudnt be a big prob unless really low speed when u need to resot to 1st gear. Try to drive savvy manual(renault engine, manual trans with dbw),then u know what i mean. Actually nearly the same in any manual campro engine which utilise dbw throttle. Only the weight with the power of the engine make it a bit obvious than others. Europes manual cars using dbw hardly to see malaysia nowadays unless for big n powerful one. Renault, bimmer n vw uses dbw for manual, but i dont know whether its available for non sport oriented variant.

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Added on October 23, 2012, 6:47 pmby the way goldenhawk, why not u write a formal letter to prtn hq requesting on replacement car@ some remuneration for renting outside car when ur car in workshop n try to mentioned all the trouble u have to face if there is none provided by them, n if they not commited to provide u any, u also mentioned that u will lodge report to tribunal on the matter. Maybe this will work :-). Keep copies of ur letter though for referance.

Maybe they r too busy in restructuring the company n over look it :-). I hope they listen coz i believe, previous one will do if u do it formally through the correct channel.

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 23 2012, 06:47 PM

i think, ur car is still low mileage. Need some more run. However, i do think u need to read carefully on how arthur taking advantage on understanding how clutch based cvt works. There is a diff even light footed term applied. Even both drivers never rev beyond 2k rpm or 1.8k rpm to be specific, from idle, one let the clutch closed 1st b4 press the throttle n gradually pressing until it reach 1.8k rpm(getting the cvt less work to match the ratio with the engine speed) will have diff fc with those instantly press the throttle when the clutch still in open position n contasnt pressing the throttle at 1.8k rpm(cvt hard to work more to match its ratio with the engine speed). There is a diff,even not really huge. Remember, the amount of fuel spray/injected to the engine according to engine rpm speed. The advantage of cvt is that no need to try hard to contrl coz u only need to control the engine speed while cvt doint its work for matching the ratio, while in at, u have to control it for every gear to make sure it did upshift as low rpm as it can. But if really technically careful driver, sometimes using step gear really help if take advantage of overdrive gear.

However, tcu n ecu adaptive program need sometimes to read ur driving patern before deciding the best balance between power n fc. Same apply in any car actually. If u have driven/tested turboed pug 1.6, its fc really low below 5k, n getting better n better until settling down until 10k km. Or maybe u can read any article on long term test drive on pug, i think some auto blog in malaysia do that.

Im not saying that preve cfe fc is the best, but it certainly not the worst. For a modest pwr come from 1.6l turbo engine fit in a heavy car, its not really bad. But thats my opinion jer. Others have their right too.

actually, u can hear whether the cvt work more or less to match engine speed. If u heard the engine roar a bit until it reach desired speed, and the sound become less audible,then its already match the ratio. But if u gradually pressed, u can hear the engine sound less audible coz cvt work less to match the ratio coz engine speed gap between cvt ratio is not apparent. Sorry, not really good in explaining.

i try to answer as much as i know, sorry if not really deep, just a bit. This is the same answer id given to one member here.
Generally, if want to get best fc, of course need to void getting the engine to boost its turbo, means driving below 2k rpm,like 1.8k@1.9k rpm. Of course the speed will be between 80-90kmh on hways. But actually, on hways, not really big concern, even u drive at legal speed limit at 110kmh@at 120kmh constant. The fc still ok, roughly 500km ++, even 600km is reachable. Just gradually increase engine speed(rpm), dont force it like slam it half throttle from speed 80kmh to 160kmh. Unless u really need the power, to overtake for example, but less likely u need it coz u need to remember, cfe has wide range of flat torque from 2k-4k rpm, so, gradually increase the engine speed from 2k rpm to which desired rpm u need for certain speed bcoz its pulling power is the same,only speed desired (kmh) is diff.



For town driving, let the clutch closed 1st b4 press the throttle, means let the car roll by itself n the rpm rise to 1.1krpm automatically b4 apply throttle. Gradually press throttle for example from 1.1krpm to 1.7k@1.8krpm,dont let the rev jump instantly from 1.1k rpm to 1.8k rpm. Eventhough cvt will match its ratio to match engine speed, but u can help it by feeding correct engine speed. If in traffic crawling(speed around 50kmh to 80kmh needed),beside let the clutch open b4 press throttle, u also need to drive exceeding 1.6krpm,but remember, gradually, not forcing it, n never beyond 1.8k rpm.

N if traffic is clear, no need speed beyond 90kmh, gradually pressing to 1.9k rpm shud be suffice.

if really crawling,speed below 50kmh needed, drive not exceeding 1.6krpm. N if in start stop condtion which stop is short, dont push ur gear lever to n@neutral cause in drive mode, when u r stopping using foot brake, ur idling is lower thanneutral idling,around 650rpm,compare to neutral,shud be around 850rpm. But if the stop condition is long, then neutral is favourable coz u dont want cvt clutch to overheat,maybe more than 3 minutes each stop.



The reasons, cvt adapt many strategies. 1st, reduce idling rpm when stoping in drive mode using footbrake. 2nd, creep mode, when from neutral to drive or footbrake stop to move, clutch will close(it takes a couple of scnd), n the car will start rolling itself even throttle is not pressed to facilitate take off. 3rd,crawl mode, speed less than 50kmh, it will in crawl mode(means overdrive gear ratio isnt available) until 1.6krpm to facilitate slow driving for parking,drive around neighbourhood n etc, thats why when speed needed exceeding 50kmh, i ask u to rev beyond 1.6k rpm, to avoid crawl mode n cvt can enter overdrive mode as possible. 4th, the cvt is heavily labour to achieve optimum fc speed beyond 50kmh to 80kmh max,So getting the car rev rpm between the speed favourable in town driving,around 1.6krpm to 1.8krpm(cfe)1.6krpm to 2krpm(iafm+). 5th,the cvt will change its character beyond 2krpm,depend on driver input. More agressive manner. N for cfe turbo also bosting at 2krpm.

It seems tedious, but its not actually coz u r just controlling the engine speed, the rpm, no need to think which rpm need to feed to upshift like normal at. I know the rpm is easy to shoot up nearly 2krpm, but if u really learn it, its only need one day to practice.

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Added on October 25, 2012, 1:36 amand for dares, yup, not really details actually that i know but i try my best to explain.punch cvt apply this strategy when in d mode, when complete stop using footbarake, idling will decrease than neutral idling, to save some fuel. It shud be around 650 rpm in d idling with footbrake, 850rpm in neutral idling. Both have pros n cons. Stopping in footbrake, can save a bit of fuel n time(clucth closed timing) actually, but the cons is that if stoping in long time, the clutch will overheat, but of course, severe condition driving situation, like stoping more than 3 minutes each stop, n too many stops with the same elapse time continuously. In neutral idling, even its consume a bit fc n takes a bit of time to clutch to react, but in idling, the clutch is soak in oil to cool it down. But the diff is not much,only if u try to get the best fc as u could from the cvt.
While for engine braking downhill, actually fuel is cut coz engine is keep running by gear rather than fuel to keep it from stalling. That is also another strategy apply by punch to its cvt, but the diff is quite negligence,but the safety aspect of driving is more on this part.

Why not explain about this to customers? Common customer, actually will be pening if explain. It just for those who want to try their best to get best fc only. An also who actually will undertand some technical details. Not only cvt, even manual gbox have their own strategy or tuning. If give details like this, common people will say, wah, so complicated ah. To drive cvt@any auto related gbox is not complicated, but how to get the best fc,then u need to understand how it works.

Same as ur powershift car dares :-). Undertand the minimum rpm to upshift n try to make it shift to 6th or overdrive gear as sonest possible.find suitable pressure, so that u can maintain the same pressure for every gear. Thats for auto@pwrshift gearbox lah :-).

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 25 2012, 01:39 AM

Ha..ha..sorry,miss out that. Generally,nope coz not in practice in any car maker, but u can point out for their tuner such r3 for prtn, n others like trd,impul, mugen, m3 n etc. But doing outside, warranty will be void unless u use plug n paly things for dbw which can be easily dismantle when claim for it, for r3, normally,they give their own warranty, same as other tuners, but will effect factory warranty,unless the manufacturer give the warranty such r3 neo. Sorry about that. But i know a lot of tuners, even some protonians who work extra job(unofficial) doing tuning outsides.

For the letter, write to those who is in high rank, in the service centre@even prtn hq.

Iinm, its 15w 50 for syntium 1000. A good engine oil coz can withstand high temperature, but not really recommended coz its characteristic, n its quite thick. 5w 30@5w 40 shud do the trick if u want to use fs. If u notice, for common cars, many manufacturer recommend 10w 30 rating as standard. That is the best balance between price, performance n fc n it use less addititve.
If love to speed, always speeding n outstation,then 40 is my preference, but for normal ride, 30 rating is just nice.

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Added on October 25, 2012, 1:00 pm Ha..ha..sorry,miss out that. Generally,nope coz not in practice in any car maker, but u can point out for their tuner such r3 for prtn, n others like trd,impul, mugen, m3 n etc. But doing outside, warranty will be void unless u use plug n paly things for dbw which can be easily dismantle when claim for it, for r3, normally,they give their own warranty, same as other tuners, but will effect factory warranty,unless the manufacturer give the warranty such r3 neo. Sorry about that. But i know a lot of tuners, even some protonians who work extra job(unofficial) doing tuning outsides.

For the letter, write to those who is in high rank, in the service centre@even prtn hq.

Iinm, its 15w 50 for syntium 1000. A good engine oil coz can withstand high temperature, but not really recommended coz its characteristic, n its quite thick. 5w 30@5w 40 shud do the trick if u want to use fs. If u notice, for common cars, many manufacturer recommend 10w 30 rating as standard. That is the best balance between price, performance n fc n it use less addititve.
If love to speed, always speeding n outstation,then 40 is my preference, but for normal ride, 30 rating is just nice.

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 25 2012, 01:00 PM

10w 40@10w 30 in semi syn packed shud be available in any prtn sc. Just fs they dont have coz i think no fs in such rating@maybe i just couldnt find one. Normally fs form 5w 20, 5w30, 5w40, 0w 30, 0w40, 10w60 n 15w50. Maybe missed out some numbers :-). Petronas fs available in sc is only for 15w 50 coz its the only cheapest available fs for petronas. If hold the one that price is higher, rarely people want it, so, in business sense not really good. And many bring their own fs.

If u read carefully in eo section in ur manual book, it did stated use oil at the recommended viciousity or higher, never mentioned compulsory used what available in the sc only. Thats why in cose, they allow u to bring ur own eo.

Mr goldenhawk, for r3 contact, u can get it from prtn website@r3 blog. For other unofficial tuners, i dont have their contact no. When i mentioned i know, its not knowing them personally, means i acknowledge about it. For protonians who are doing outside job without the company concent(which using maybe some tools or pnc password n etc), is actually doing it illegally,hence they might loosing their job if getting cought. But of course, there is no aggressive move from the co since its not really widely spread. Maybe u can ask some forumers here about outside tuners.

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Added on October 25, 2012, 6:09 pmand one more thing, 15w 50 fs wont harm ur engine, it just its propriety is too heavy n thick for new engine. It will protect it, but performance n fc wise, it will be effected a bit.

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 25 2012, 06:09 PM

i just answer the 1st part coz the others already answered by the forumers here. 1st of all, since prtn only has 1 engine based(actually using others have probs, not only on tuning part, warranty n trouble shooting, thats why, if something happened to outsourced engine, need to consult them coz if prtn doing it at its own, warranty will be void, n if they, the outsourced party said, no, our engine@even trans dont have this probs, then,nothing can be done, same as savvy case, perdana n even some inspira case,its quite tedious actually), an its 1.3 n 1.6. If everybody notice, previously, prtn try to follow the japs way, means using japs components, but it seems, not only hard to get the latest one, even getting the inferior. They r quite stingy i must say since prtn is a manufacturer,has the capability. But its not wrong for them to protect their intelectual property.

So, taking other route,same as others do, downsizing n turbo charge it. The benefit of low inertia turbo will be apparents when load is consider n hilly road condtition coz its produce generous amount of torque at low rpm. Even compare to 2.0l engine, u need to work the engine hard to get enough torque coz its achieving high torque at high rpm.

Of course u can make the best by implying so much tech into one engine, but the problem is cost. While vw utilising its 1.2 n 1.4 engines across its products n ford 1.0 also will make appearance in focus or even maybe mondeo,its not only due to emmision cntrl, but also to cover the cost of developing such high tech engine.

While they r making millions unit sold for each product, compare to prtn,its not a viable option coz the diff in sales is big. So, what prtn try to do is doing the best within all limitations interm of cost, economy of scales n etc..

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Added on October 27, 2012, 12:15 pmthe aim for cfe is for comfortble drive. Take for example, inspira 2.0, full load, preve cfe, full load,(both with same load capacity) just rev both car at 2k rpm only, drive both up to speed 100kmh with the same rpm,then u will notice the diff. Initial move maybe a bit laggy since cvt in cfe using clutch, inspira using torque converter, but after the clutch fully closed, then u'll see the diff(u can avoid the lag by using handbrake by the way)

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 27 2012, 12:15 PM

one more thing mr gk lai, in layman words, if talking about how much torque u need for driving comparing turbo vs na, if ur turbo engine achieve full torque as in cfe at 2k rpm, while the others need to rev until beyond 4k rpm to have it, if u drive na 2.0, rev until beyond 4k rpm to achieve its full torque everyday, n cfe, driving at 2k rpm everyday, then compare the fc, then u will see its not really bad for any low turbocharge car interm of fc if u look that way as comparison.

Same as daily driving, how much torque do u need to drive in town(of course, hp also another factor coz it effect the speed kmh). For me atleast, i dont see full torque is much needed for single driver for daily driving. Thats why rev to 2k rpm is not much needed. Same as driving 2.0 na car, dont need to drive beyond 4k rpm for daily driving coz not much torque needed.

Read my previous post on cvt software programs n strategies n why u dont feel as much torque as stated in the torque graph due to torque reduction below 1.6k rpm to facilitate crawl movement coz if giving full torque, its hard to control during crawling situation due to cvt, while fixed ratio has limits on each gear ratio in speed. For example, in fixed ratio, 1st gear, at 1.7k, the speed is less than 20kmh, but in cvt,its diff,it can be 60kmh@even 80kmh,so, without the strategies, it would be hard to control cvt manner,thats why they implement the strategy.

Driving manual cfe is a diff story though coz u can feel on how really the torque generated n increasing during the rev. Even its not the same as real manual gbox, but u can test it by using manual mode my moving the stick to the left, n u can see how easy@fast the rev climb to 2k rpm for each gear.

But the diff still apparent for manual gbox though coz u downshift and upshift according to ur own will, but for cvt manual mode cfe, it has its own minimum/maximum set of downshift n upshift pattern to protect the cvt gbox.

Thats why some still may prefer manual cog even dct/amt/cvt/at can provide manual override :-).

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Added on October 28, 2012, 8:21 amcreative :-), but make sure u cover it when washing the engine bay coz i saw u drill a hole overthere. Just in case though. U dont want any water to slip inside the fuse box. I know its rare, but who knows, things can happen. Better be safe than sorry.

N please remember to unplug it during service, u dont want it to be observed n noted by the sc :-). I dont know the product, but from what i read here, it seems has its own advantage.

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 28 2012, 08:21 AM

yup, but not everyone @ car wash centre done it properly@cover it. Just a friendly reminder :-),just in case.

mr ben, if related to bcm, u can try unplug the battery for a while around 5 to 10 minutes. If not working, contact i care emergency n mentioned ur probs,n never mentioned about u r doing the sound proofing thing.

Arthur, is hard actually to fully understand ur situation. Try it this way though, if in full cvt mode, pedal to metal. If u r using manual mode, i think the best it to doing fully manual overide, slot to the left side.

Since u mentioned u r in 5th gear, have u try down shift to forth@even 3rd? I answer this based on what i understand ur situation.Even has the torque, in manual mode, giving its fixed gear, i think 5th gear is just to tall dince u mentined 4 occupants on hilly road. It hesitate to rev up more coz being torqued based ecu, it seems reading u need the full torque n based on ratio on fifth, it wont rev beyond that. So, try to downshift to 4th@3rd, look whether its willing to rev more. If it rev more when down shift, then,its normal.

But i think, for comfortable drive, its better for u to pedal to metal in full cvt mode, or slot to s mode if u want more speed. Coz cvt will search the appropriate ratio for u, u just need to floor it only.

about the manual gearbox, they need to consult getrag on the matter coz now trans thing will be directly under oem supervision n warranty. The report need to be sent to them for rectification, unless it is related to the engine part. So,send to sc to check which part is associate with the problems. Seems punch is more proactive then getrag, or maybe getrag too busy due to high supply with other automakers. But every problems need time to rectify coz any counter measures need to be sure effective so that the same probs will not surface again.

Gk lai, i think its the tcu update. But just confius on the coolant change@top up. If top up, i think the excess of coolant shud be in ur car(of course,in bottle) coz rarely u need a bottle to top up. And compressor oil, i dont remember needed to change on that mileage. Maybe i miss that part@sanden did issue circular to replace the oil.

about civic vs preve cfe, on engine part, i dont think both are tuned for true performance. Mostly just provide better power delivery, while not sacrificing too much on fc. Like previous gen civic, there is 1.6,1.8 n 2.0 gasoline engine. If 1.6 is enough, why offered 1.8 n 2.0? If 1.6 isnt have enough power n efficiency, why put it in the line? There are many ways to reduce cost, but making too much available, it is a cost to produce the engine, then its not cost saving.

By the way, if i not mistaken :-), a simple rule hp benchmark that is been a borderline to know whehter it has enough power or not, is need to set, balance between kerb weight of the car n the power of the engine is minimum 80hp pertonne or beyond that. While the torque is minimum100nm pertonne max(thats why u start feeling the pulling power coming at rpm where 100nm pertonne is achieving), of course, auto makersneed to put higher max torque coz the car weight will increase when there is occupant inside n luggage. That is layman term, not really engineering calculation,just to show simple measurement
Ive been fond by vtec so many years, yup, honda isnt the 1st on variable valve lift, but how they managed to introduce it across its products since introduction coz vvl is actually high cost component during that time n normally not used commercially for low cost@medium cost car. But honda managed to do against the odd.

What vvl lacking of is low end torque coz u cant simply put the activation early coz it will hurt the fc badly n may compromise on comfort coz engine will be harsher even at low rev, thats why some combine it with vis@vvt@turboed it.

Try to find the balance its a hard thing to do. But since opting to soch(simple, cost effective, better low end), they also insert in vvt component, now they call it ivtec, n even loosing single head cam, but since vvl is there, it covered up the need for doch at high end torque n power.

However, none of these techs are perfect. While one may compare driving civic at 2k rpm in town save a lot more than driving 2k rpm in cfe, but need also to know, the diff in torque generated, n how much pulling power if u compare. Then,in order to achieve the same max pulling power, u need to rev it to high rpm, but if driving like that, vs preve only need to rev 2k rpm, so which one will consume more? That is what is call efficient@prtn used the name charged fuel efficient. While other na 1.8@2.0 need to be rev higher n using more fuel coz more fuel to be injected to obtain full torque, cfe only need a lower amount of fuel to be injected to achieve the same pulling energy. Not only cfe, any other low enertia turbo engine.

U can get nearly perfect engine by combining all the tech, but it come with cost, n sometimes in marketing point of view, placing a little displacement engine on a big sedan, seems less attractive than putting the bigger one, coz generally, bigger means better for commoner. Ford are doing it for ford ecoboost, spending carnevous amount of money on that, but, need to coverup the cost, thats why in the future, nearly all their cars will be using the same engine, 1.0 ecoboost, maybe even in mondeo. Thats why u see how heavily ford keep marketed its 1.0 engine, to make buyers understand, even its a punny engine, but it has big power. Thats why they keep it for the right moment when the market can accept it even the engine already production ready more than a year. Same as 1.2 n 1.4 tsi.

Dont get me wrong, as for na engine, ivtec is really good n promising. by the way, if not mistaken, previous gen civic n current one, the weight is not far from persona weight, but i think is lighter than preve cfe :-). In c segment, preve cfe is one of the heaviest car in malaysia.

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Added on October 31, 2012, 8:34 pmmr gk lai, the good things about cvt is they can change the cvt character via software where they can employ many starategies coz its ratio is infinite while fix ratio gearbox auto, they can change the character by prevent early upshift to promote better power, but sacrificing the fc, too early shift, loss of power, labouring the engine also will sacrifice fc, to find the balance its really hard especially for na engine coz normally high torque generated at high rpm. Lockup protocols also tedious, if lockup too early, the engine will feel lazy, if too high, the gear will hunting up n down between overdrive ratio n other ratio.

Thats why many automakers using cvt as trans for low end engine coz easier to make it drivable, n no need to rev high especially in town driving,especially during full load, if putting fixed gears, not only need to rev higher, but gear hunting is not really comfortable coz gearbox keep hunt for the sweet spot.Of course there are high powered cvt. But of course, nothing perfect. Fixed ratio also has its advantage also.

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 31 2012, 08:34 PM

sorry, whether i miss sight on ur previous post@u didnt post. Either way, is not a prob anway. Abot scndary supplier, that is sop. Still the same from getrag coz in any situation, prtn still need to follow sop so that nobody will miss a thing on the probs coz issuance of the part still need to undergo prtn part n assembly@repairing still need prtn serivce coz getrag dont offer assembly@repairing job,just supplying part to proton. Andwhat i mentioned is if for probs, any rectification@update, need validation from oem, can simply usik2

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Added on November 1, 2012, 6:01 amthere is no other supplier, just subsidiary or those who are incharge@representative from getrag.

Gk lai, what do u mean by pinging@knocking sound?its quite confusing. Can u eleborate more?Didnt u report it when u send to sc?

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Added on November 1, 2012, 6:05 amn if prtn endorsed@engaged another supplier without getrag consent or through getrag, prtn will be in trouble. Everything is in black n white.

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Added on November 1, 2012, 6:06 ambut on replacement car, thats prtn jurisdiction@fault, not related to getrag anyway.

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Added on November 1, 2012, 7:18 amb4 people taking out my statement wrongly, i need to clear things up. When i said prtn jurisdicition, it doesnt mean their obligation coz in any car maker in the world, there is no legal contact for them to pay remuneration@provide replacement car @ any relevance matter to customer, its only part of their goodwil. The only thing provide under warranty is replacement of faulty part n its service for free under warranty.

Not defending proton, but thats how its work for any car maker too.

However, i still insist for proton to provide temporary relief car for mr golden hawk or any customer.

This post has been edited by mat79: Nov 1 2012, 07:18 AM

wish u luck bro. Hopefully next time, they need to be more transparent. If there is no relief car. Just tell the truth, if no relief car, just say no. U dont want customer to wait endlessly. I hope new prtn heard it, if not available, just straight say no, the service is unavailable,its not in our policy@etc etc. if available, give exact date n deliver it on time. Its not really good to give nearly empty promises.

Or just follow the rules@norm. Just said no. Easy to customer to rearrange it to settle their matters like renting a car@ etc.

Hopefully they will attend to you after reading ur email. U get my greatest wishes. Happy thursday.

mr ben, hows urs locking prob? Is it solve?

Bout brio, dunno whether its possible or feasible for prton to rebadge it since previously the want to enter world small car market with gsc project. The engine, maybe, sharing platform, maybe, total rebadge, i dont think so personally.

But the highest possibility is for perdana replacement coz its much needed, n since building a total new perdana is not cost effective due to small sales especially for high preice prtn, rebadge is the best way i think. Whether honda allow prtn make a total revamp@just like mitsu agreement earlier on inspira, depend on how they discuss the matter n need to meet eye to eye in every proposal made. Hopefully with strong relation between drb n honda, it makes the possibility higher.
But still only a possibility, not total absolute.

About free service, it seems drb change the strategies for end of year car. Normally rebate is offer for end of year car, some from 1k to 2k generally, but this time around, diff strategy by offering free service.

Until the matter is clear whether free service means free labour, but still need to pay for the parts n oil combining with rebate@without, or total full free service without rebate, need the official statements on term n condition apply.

For me atleast, giving rebate for end of year car favourable coz in people eyes, it seems a bit legit, but offering free service, makes them feel like being stab from behind, even the cost nearly the same as giving rebate.

However its still early to comment on that matter since no official statement on terms n condition n what they really offer.

yup, agreed, thats why need to see the term 1st. If let say 3 years labour free@50k km, i think if it stated service for every 10k, n i do think not much on labour coz the charge only high at 40k when need to change coolant. The other just minor. So, total cost only around rm 500 max. If include oil n part. I think minor shud be around 200, n total shud be around rm 1k++ coz only 60k service need to change spark plug n cvt oil. Engine oil normally semi only for free, n even mineral.

So, still need the term, whether 3 years unlimited mileage@ at certain mileage.

But i do agree if offer special one year free service for previous owner, or give free service voucher, even better if including part,2 times maybe for every 10k km, n only valid for one year at least.

Yup the loose up a bit, but did give the existing owner feel appreciated.

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Added on November 1, 2012, 7:28 pmif not mistaken,that this offer only valid for 2 month(please correct if wrong, lazy to read :-)) only, mean those who r purchasing next year dont enjoy the free service promotion. Just my assumption, if they give to existing owner, then will future buyer who buying next year also will complain the same thing if not offered? Then it shud be standard offer then, not limited.

So, thats why i do think this strategy isnt good, but who am i to comment on that. I think drb has its own method n reason though. Its depend on consumer prospectives.

This post has been edited by mat79: Nov 1 2012, 07:28 PM

give it sometimes, it will be back to normal. New tcu need time to adapt ur driving style n correspond with engine ecu mapping.

They are doing it via software, but i think at 100kmh, shud be more or less the same rpm on overdrive.

I think, previously, its programmed to entered overdrive earlier, just rely in engine solely torque. But since many complaint about initial acceleration, so, the deffered a bit on that, only entered the od when the speed is stabilize. Its like putting s mode until nearly 2k rpm, but beyond that, back to d mode. But since some alteration on it strategies, better rev up by put the the resistance point higher, altered fast off n pull away strategies to giving better pickup, then, the whole thing will behave differently.

Remember when someone mentioned want bold cfe setting in preve cfe?

However, on the top speed, maybe the upcoming ecu mapping, can help it. But still not available yet.

The engine oil is also heavy for city driving at 15w 50. If permitted, next time bring own fs engine oil rating 5w30@5w40. If want to use semi, just stick with 10w 30.

actually, nearly every car gbox has overdrive gear @od. Generally, Its gear that ratio is less than 1, n normally last gear. Like honda's 5 at, it has 2 overdrive gear. Thats why now 4th gear in the gear slot. Reason, to lower the engine rpm to give better fuel economy,but has less power coz torque is lower at that rpm during cruising. Like honda's, sudden press on accelerator, cause it to downshift to third. for manual, normally, if its 5th gear, then its is the fifth. But some has dual overdrive also like aichikikai in saga blm n fl.

In auto, if to overtake, sometimes it has off overdrive button. If u switch off overdrive, u can feel, the power is coming n rpm raising bcoz it down shift n never enter the last gear@overdrive gear. In prev mitsu auto trans in prtn, prtn dont use button, but u can see number 3 in the gear slot, it has the same function. To off overdrive, so, gear only shift in 1,2 n 3rd gear only.

For punch cvt,its quite unique. If in sat mode, there is no overdrive mode, but in full cvt, there is. Since cvt is stepless, then the general rules on ratio below than 1 isnt apply. Check ur manual book, u can the diff between last ratio on full cvt mode with last ratio in manual mode.

Previous setting is heavily labour for fuel efficiency, but the main problem(when people complaint), it has sluggish feeling n people tend to press hard to accelerate, so, beating the original purpose of the tuning, then fc will also affected.

Then, by giving diff setting, change resistance point, clamping n etc, u will get better acceleration, but if dont cntrol ur right foot, also mean the same thing. But it seems they compensate that by bringing down a lil bit the rpm than usual during full stop by using footbrake, normally around 650 to 700 rpm, now its lower. Exora tuned is nearly the same coz its heavier than preve, but of course, need to alter n test it b4 deliver to customer.

Even people said they dont listen, but they do listen, dont they :-).

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Added on November 3, 2012, 1:21 amn mr gk lai, its like u r driving a new car(albeit not really new), its back to ground zero, same as ecu reflash, both tcu n ecu, need to learn back ur driving pattern b4 deciding the best between power n fc, the balance. That is adaptive programmed is all about. Just be patience.

As i mentioned really early before, they can make it fast, i mean really fast, but many things need to consider n many objective need to examine b4 deciding coz for example, if there is no torque reduction n crawl strategy, the car will be fast coz all the torque will be sent to the wheel. If u just drive around neighbourhood, a slight tap on the pedal can cause the car to launch rapidly n its quite dangerous, same as when u search for parking. U need to remember, in cvt, engine speed(rpm) easily can goes up, n the cvt is stepless, u dont want to bang the wall@another car when park.

Diff from step auto or manual where the speed is limit, like 1st gear, is only until 50kmh only, even at high rpm, for example, 6k rpm, 1st gear only take u up to 50kmh, but in cvt, 6k rpm, means highest speed as possible, in cfe, beyond 200kmh. Thats why cvt is banned from formula 1 earlier, coz if implement torque reduction, it become slow, if release all torque, it become too fast n maybe uncontrollable. So, its not as easy as it looks in mapping cvt tcu n mapping engine ecu to work together in harmony.Happy driving.

This post has been edited by mat79: Nov 3 2012, 01:21 AM