bolt and nut shop. Sunway have one, but honestly speaking, it's not the highest grade of stainless steel, one of it starting to get rusty already, will replace one to continue the test.

using Bride Low Max on driver side. my personal point of view, Low Max series is already full bucket, just the matter of it's with recliner or not, the one without recliner is truly full bucket; the recliner one which i'm using currently i called it full bucket with semi bucket function. if you're interested to see, meet you at the TT

see you if there is TT

i'm all in! my contact number, O126699365 (call/sms/Whatsapp).

please clean, wash and detailing (if you feel like doing it) the birdie, i'll be bringing camera for group shooting!

This post has been edited by jaesern: Dec 16 2014, 12:25 AM

good morning!

don't worry, just get it wash will do

is the sound from front or rear?

the sound from front may come from the front absorber top mount or front anti roll bar bush, total four for it.

i didn't experience anything wrong from the rear suspension yet. so can't say anything about it.

no budget to make the car looks nice, and with bodykit need to jaga more, cannot jump speed bump

you may try to feel other semi bucket seat as mine is counted as full bucket. driver side of mine Bride Low Max reclineable + SSCUS rail, new one from Kakimotor should be near to rm1k fyi.

i would advise Kenari to run on 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30. w40 don't really advantage to the car.

for additional information, i'm running on 10w30 semi syn Liqui Moly. done few observation before, i run at around 140km/h during night time no rain, oil temp is less then 80c; during raining night time 110km/h, oil temp is less then 70c. day time hot weather says 34c the oil temp is 80~90c, which it's just nice working temp; traffic jam around 100c. i don't have oil press gauge so i don't have full detail on it.

there will always be another one

i thought you're free to choose whatever you want/need? i've heard Kelisa running on 14k spring rate, so yea, you get to choose whatever you prefer...

what kind of setup you're looking forward to? standard? total sport? or somewhere in the middle?

no problem everyone please wash car ya, if possible we make a photo shooting on all cars

do join us on up coming TT

why not? can can

it won't be from Japan with this price, if it's from Japan, it won't be so cheap. and Japan seldom and rarely make 2 sets of pcd in one rims.

A multimeter or voltmeter will get to job done. Test when the engine is off, test again when the engine is on, then test with engine on and all load on (aircond fan full blast, headlight on and radio on).

Join us on tt tomorrow night and I'll help you to test

This post has been edited by jaesern: Jan 30 2015, 08:27 AM

aiya... sigh! we all just reached home anyway...

no la, better not reveal my setup online, if really interested, come see during TT

paintwork can cost you as cheap as thousand plus to rm6k+ as far as i heard. what you pay is what you get.

more correct way to check engine oil level, park the car on relatively flat surface, start the car and wait for engine oil check to light off. wait for two to three minutes, pull out dip stick and check the level, top up engine oil if necessary, normally i won't bother if it's above 50%. if necessary to top up engine oil, after top up you can straight proceed to check engine oil level without starting the engine again. temperature of engine oil and temperature of ambient when checking engine oil level won't take in consideration of engine oil level.

enjoy and have fun!

What you pay is what you get, this won't be wrong...

hi!

my Kenari had auto gearbox problem previously, around early of May. was considering to get k3ve in or just change the gearbox. my rough calculation show me it gonna cost around rm10k.

halfcut + installation, ~rm5k
brakes + installation, ~rm1k
adjustable suspension, ~rm1k

not to mention if anything went wrong with the halfcut engine or brakes that incur more cost; there is a lot of hidden cost that kills! you won't know when you spend bit by bit.

plus also like Vinod mentioned, car handling will change. i personally drove a Kenari once, fitted with k3ve auto + semi slick, no doubt i enjoy straight road very much, but when comes to taking corners the feeling is just not correct.

that's why i got ended up with just the gearbox replacement.

i'll suggest you to get the overhaul done. some tips here, if you have time to lepak in workshop and your mechanic willing to follow what's below:
1. clean the engine from top to bottom; inside to outside;
2. clean and measure clearance for piston ring and main bearing; if it's within the spec, please don't change; if it's out of spec, change when only you/your mechanic able to get to correct spec, if can't, change = no change, vice versa (most of the workshop don't perform this job, wasting time);
3. additional info for statement above, if there is worn or burn mark on main bearing then so sorry you'll have no choice to replace it;
4. grind valve (no worries for most of the workshop);
5. get all the oil seal thingy replaced;
6. new engine head gasket (skim engine head if required);
7. install everything from top to bottom of the engine with correct torque spec;
8. measure the valve shim to get to correct clearance (most of the workshop don't perform this job, wasting time).

yea, so as Vinod mentioned, that's what a ~rm5k job looks like. a cheap one, forget about 2. & 3. & 7. & 8., 5. & 6. most likely not an original parts.

theoretically, it's not require to replace crankshaft, piston, con-rod, valve, camshaft and valve bucket unless it's damaged.

engine mounting cost you rm200++ to rm600++. from genuine Perodua, so called original Daihatsu to third party, you just name it, any shop can get for you.

i'm so sorry if the reply is too long


hi!

auto or manual? if auto, during Neutral or Drive?

3 piece to be replaced. engine mounting cost you rm200++ to rm600++. from genuine Perodua, so called original Daihatsu to third party, you just name it, any shop can get for you.

from my experience, i dare to say it's engine mounting, most likely one of the mounting completely broken/about to break. please get it check asap for your own and wallet safety.

driver's side window run channel won't be expensive to replace, anyway get a good diagnose before replace to confirm it's the run channel.

knocking sound from exhaust may due to broken exhaust mounting or rusty exhaust.

a second hand instrument cluster only cost around rm100, only down side if you are don't mind, since it's not new, odometer is not in all zero. a few of the member is using Japan instrument cluster. a bit different from what is from Kenari, instead of 160km/h, it's 140km/h; instead of 6,500rpm red line, it has a 8,500rpm red line. but everything is plug n play fyi.

hmm, Ulu Yam route, that sounds good to me

normally should be alternator problem. get the car jump started, tap in a voltmeter or multimeter, reading should be around 14V when all electric component is in off. any number then 12V is alternator defected.

check for voltage reading when air cond is on. if voltage is low and revving engine helps, possible problem may be alternator not enough charging or a/c blower fan motor not in good condition or a/c compressor clutch not in good condition.

i'll also suggest to check throttle idling valve.

hope my suggestion helps a bit.


wow sweet! if their workmanship and replacement parts is good , it's better then buying a brand new or recond unit.