you can try, but don't think it will help.

engine oil yours is fine, please stick back to 5w30 or 10w30 for this engine, no point to go w40, i have my car rev to red zone everyday, Genting every month, still i'm using a 10w30 semi syn. w40 is too much.

what tire pressure you're running on? make sure it's at least around 32psi for standard tire.

it's using correct spark plug? ngk BKR5E-11, for platinum ngk BKR5EGP, for iridium ngk BKR5EIX-11.

is your engine oil/atf overfilled?

check your front brake caliper piston, and rear drum brake for any possible of jam.

oh ya you also mentioned less then 10km from house, that may be a cause of heavy fuel consumption as cold start used a lot of fuel.

This post has been edited by jaesern: Sep 4 2014, 01:14 AM

seriously, no point getting the disc. it's either get a better brake pad, or even better, change to bigger brakes.

steel braided hose is a good upgrade for brake feel, that's if anyone afford to change the hose every year or two. steel braided hose tend to break after a few years of service because sand and dust in between the steel braided will cut the hose and cause leak. in addition, steel braided hose only gives you feeling, nothing to do with the performance.

i guess no one here willing and/or afford to buy a brake pad that need to warm up. that's purely for track purpose, a hundred or two hundred ringgit brake pad don't required warm up.

slotted or cross drilled disc rotor don't need clearance on caliper, it's a plug 'n' play stuff to standard caliper.

This post has been edited by jaesern: Sep 19 2014, 08:12 PM

yea anytime is fine, preferred pj area. just let me know in advance, super advance



guys, i came across this pu bush for front lower arm x anti roll bar. it's rm80, anyone interested? honest review, pros, harder front suspension feel over the speed bump and during corner; cons, it produced rattling sound when birdie is vibrating (thanks to 3 cylinder engine!) when to the car is about to stop. cod location, Puchong, Sunway, Subang and pj.

yea i'm fine on Sat night, any exact location in mind?

when?
Sat night 25/10

time?
??

where?
ttdi?

who?
1. tommi88
2. jaesern
3. Move2u
4. v1n0d ??
5. kllam ??

guess it's a call off for this Sat?

For next month currently 15-16th, 22-23rd, and every Friday of Nov I'm not available. The rest of the time should be fine.

ATF better stick back to Perodua genuine ATF, currently clocked nearly 170k km, everything still fine.

count me out, i will have touge to Genting on this Fri night.

you guys can try luck at at Brothers outlet to see if they still keep old stock for it...

yes ALL Kenari is fuel injection engine.

it's just standard oe replacement. reason why you need to replace new disc is because the disc have a recommended minimum thickness, anything below the min thickness may caused vibration when applying brakes, overheat (as the disc have not enough 'space' to keep the heat) and reduce in brake performance. that's all i think of for now.

i'm running on Myvi front brakes, TNA disc which the one i'm selling and Mintex (not Mintye!) brake pad. rear brakes converted from Nissan Pulsar, running on FBK brake pad. then currently running on semi slick tire all round.

sorry for the super long reply...

whole conversion was actually done around two years back when i have no choice but to do it, rear brakes gave me problem first, realize it's not functioning and my mechanic suggest me to replace brake shoe, it works, but only last me one to two months before the problem came back. then after all kind of testing and inspecting, still couldn't get it done, i got fed up and forgot about it after some time...

i thought it's ok since front brake is still functioning until one day front brake caliper is jammed, my Ferodo brake pad finished in less then 10kkm. no choice i have to do something about it, got myself a set of Myvi brake set, totally plug n play into Kenari without modify anything.

was so happy until when i start to drive it hard and realize because the rear brake not working, the front locked up too easily even dry road. another no choice but to fork out few hundreds ringgit to get the rear to work, ended up with my current rear disc brake. the rear disc brake i get to bought is already converted to direct fit Kenari, modification was done by supplier, buy then plug n play.

currently my rear disc brake served as normal brake + hand brake. yes as you guys mentioned, it's not so good after the conversion, scared you to shit especially when the brake pad is new because it haven't run in. been running it for two years, i would say not too bad, still manage to park the car at slope with handbrake only, but don't think much people can put down the handbrake as i need to pull it to very high position. and also, car won't even slow down with just the handbrake compare to drum brake if using disc brake. i came to this summary:

CLARIFICATION on why handbrake on rear brake disc conversion not as good as original drum brake:
1. new brake pad. brake pad needs to run in before fully works. from my experience, give it a 5k~10kkm...
2. the end of handbrake cable X rear brake caliper is not allowed to have freeplay.
3. naturally handbrake by drum works better then disc.

i'm running on ATR K-Sport, two size available, 165/55R14 (stock Kenari size) and 165/50R15. i'm using the 14" Myvi SE rim. if you're into real performance, get this tire, but, life spend of this tire is half or even lesser then standard road tire. i had a pair changed on early of March this year, another pair on July ago. one of the pair need to replace i think around CNY next year

CLARIFICATION on semi slick tire
1. it's legal (because no one say it's not illegal).
2. semi slick is alright under the wet condition, with three condition: 1. keeps your eye open real big, don't drive over standing water puddle on high speed, let say 60km/h on 1" standing water puddle? 2. tire thread is used to expelled the water from beneath the tire, it works the same like standard road tire, without tire thread either on standard road tire or semi slick, you're in deep shit. so don't put the blame on semi slick. 3. ask me on TT

again, sorry for the super long reply...

It's more like I'm writing a journal on my experience... Lol!

Some Say Kumho SPT is better then K-Sport, but myself not too sure as I never use SPT before. But one thing for sure is SPT works better K-Sport during wet condition.

Yea, TT anytime, just let me know in advance, alternatively, I'll be at Genting tonight...


You should be using 165/60R13 or 165/60R14 now. I'll suggest you to change to Myvi rim, quite durable compare to stock Kenari rim. And you can save a bit on fuel consumption as thinker tire you're running now mean more effort to run the car, same theory like you're using bigger rim.

guys, for you that need rear speaker board, Brothers Puchong branch have it, left 6 piece. rm58 for the board, installation labour i'm not too sure...

just a little bit of opinion on these engine mention above.

drove one fitted with K3VE before, fitting with Kenari stock size semi slick tire. straight line performance is really good! but when comes to curvy road which i concern a lot, it's not so cool, it's hard to put power down to the ground when cornering even on semi slicks. so not to mention anything about K3VET. unless you guys decided to cut the wheel arch and slam in 195/50R15.

on the 660cc turbo, forget about it unless you want the turbo spooling sound. been in a drag with Kancil 660cc turbo before, i'm with my Kenari auto, the Kancil got slightly faster before 90km/h and after that the Kancil didn't manage to keep up with me anymore.

on the installation/conversion part of K3 (not sure on 660 turbo), you will have to use YRV subframe and engine mounting. lower arm, drive shaft and front antiroll bar got to be Kenari to prevent the tire come out from the fender. and to pair Kenari lower arm and front antiroll with the YRV subframe, you'll need to force installation on antiroll bar together with the lower arm on the the YRV subframe, which from my observation it will put stress on the lower arm bush and antiroll bar end-bush.

additional information:

on the front brake conversation, different between YRV front brake and Myvi front brake:
brake caliper: same
brake carrier: YRV bigger / Myvi smaller
brake disc: diameter 246mm for YRV / diameter 234mm for Myvi (note: initial thickness for both disc are the same, 16mm)
brake pad: same, interchangeable between YRV & Myvi

yes, front is heavier. in another word, conversion need to include custom absorber, due to the ready stock aftermarket absorber is meant for Kenari stock engine only. those in the market that claimed: "yes we have for adjustable for Kenari YRV" is actually using higher spring rate to compensate, imho, absorber damping rate is far more important then spring rate.

afaik, 660cc turbo is running around 66bhp. but in real life, no replacement for displacement. and i don't think much people can afford to get the turbo running on really healthy condition, most of the people i get to know have problem with their turbo.

HWL don't provide custom afaik, or they open up custom section?! RM3.2k is the market rate for most of the custom dampers. Choices of custom dampers, Titan Shocks, RCS and F Tuned Racing... These is the brand I know, may be a lot more.

sorry to bring up a bit old post, I'm wondering, what is stage one, stage two, stage three and etc referring to? Mind to explain?



I'm using ngk g power for around five years, running all fine, just make sure to get the correct code's spark plug, because different heat range by 1 can have big different. On routine service part, it last me around 40k km, using it just because the price about the same like standard spark plug, fyi the price I got for a set is less then RM50.

it's year end, rushing for almost everything, can't promise anything. i'll try to make it if there is any TT around Klang Valley.

got myself another pair after original pair came with the car went missing. until recently realized one is missing then i converted both of them to stainless steel cap nut. don't feel like putting back the rubber because it will still ended up missing after you've paid rm10+ for it.

rear wiper also removed because it's more like a deco, hardly use it. the stud covered with vacuum hose stopper.

if you're really into legal or not, it's illegal. anything not in original manufacturer form is consider illegal. i'm bored of jpj of not releasing what is legal, what is illegal; the grey area makes pdrm easier to cari makan. had white T10 since 2008, DRL since 2010, touch wood so far so good, tips: pandai2 when you're going thru any roadblock...

sounds cool to me!

using the exact thing in the photo. statement below is up to everyone to judge, car is better at high rev, the 'chock' during high rev is gone.