doesn't matter mileage, may be fake anyways. even if real mileage, still good to get fluids refreshed.

rainbow Kepong for my tint and HU

generally in stock form, drive train 100% stock with stock paper filter and cat-con still there even original muffler that's really quiet.

added strut bar, 4 pot Sumitomo BBK that's a side grade (if your priority is performance, avoid this)
wear and tear + minor upgrade and improvement such as the exedy clutch kit, engine/strut/transmission mountings
head unit, tinting, ambi pur

The 4pot is from old 1990's WRX that's heavier than the stock 2 pot, unsprung weight under heavy braking no good.

The pads shape and friction surface also got some variance with the stock calipers and you lose about 1-2mm of friction surface.

The rotors are sharing and exact size as the stock so you don't gain rotational mass/brake torque/heat capacity (from more mass) either.

You do get 2 more pistons per side for more equal/even brake force application on the pads especially under hard braking.

Braking feel/pedal feel is faster and stiffer

And BBK looks.

Win some lose some, hence side grade, it's both an upgrade and downgrade.


Maybe 10hp from ambi pur

Mine was around 130k back in December 2017 for a 2013 manual car

Price don't drop as the years get newer. (Can't import older than 5 years)

Hong Leong 2.8% 9 years loan

recond is considered new here, even though obviously it isnt new and usually not much has been "reconditioned", if any

try to avoid 9 years if possible, i YOLO my way to the car and i am paying the price.
the usual 5-7 years with low interest rates and high down payment is always preferable. unless you're 100% sure you're not gonna sell the car within 9-10 years and/or your insurance coverage is also maxed out your loan with agreed value.

I Used torque pro app recorder + phone

Didn't purposes extract obd data log and manually overlay with external video source

What do you mean members workshop? Most, if not all of them doesn't own the car themselves

There's certainly few in those list I personally do not recommend.

Due to the sensitivity nature of this subject, I'll have to reserve it to only close friends I know IRL.

Best not to, reputable/long standing accessories shop yes

with 150k, get post recall >2014 car
you may be a bit shy for facelift >2017

manual is more unreliable due to human errors and less transmission fluid, not to mention that notorious throw out bearing/aka clutch bearing.
however, manual is where the fun's at. AT slosh box is a bit dated in today with all the DCT's and ZF8 around, which isn't relevant to manual since performance is no longer the focal point for a manual transmission today. it is about driver connectedness, man and machine, manually rowing the gears and performing accurate and very rewarding heel toe rev matching down shifts.

10k cash is a healthy budget for any mishaps, even for a manual
or even a good "resto-mod" to replace all the main drive train mountings, some of the bushings, and perhaps the suspensions as well (consider just going for those sach facelift dampers, or even staying stock showa pre facelift dampers assuming you're getting non facelifted car.

no worries on driving experience, just be humble and learn/practice, not letting ego get in the way and you'll be very fine.
empty parking lots, or even attending drift /auto cross days or events will help tremendously, not to mention Sepang or other Track days to allow you to stretch those car muscles just a little bit more, in a safe and controlled environment.

Lastly as with most, if not all recond cars, do get a proper background check such as carvx.jp or autopatrul.ru for Japanese vehicles.
so long you're not getting a beat up /high mileage car, your car condition and its reliability will be a lot better and maintenance would be greatly reduced.

Yes worth it if you're not chasing the pre facelift more "raw"/unrefined feel.
Differences very subtle and probably not noticeable by most people.

If you driving Inspira manual then it'll be easier to understand/relatable (I used to own the Inspira MT as well)
Instead of clutch pump, it's the throw out bearing aka clutch bearing.
The slave pump actually cheap, only 1 about 200+
Only one pump instead of the Inspira having 2, Inspira less pedal effort, while 86 BRZ more direct feel/connected on clutch.
You tend to sit your foot on the clutch pedal? Then you'll wear the pump/bearing very fast.
Eg: holding in the clutch pedal while staying first gear, vs clutch in, go neutral, clutch out.

And also balancing clutch to smooth out up or downshifts, smooth is good, however slow = wear clutch bearing and clutch pads. Should be both smooth and fast.
Less clutch pedal depress less wear on the pump and bearing.

Most of the manual unreliability today is due to human error.
Could be clutch fluid maintenance, or wrong gear oil usage (need to be GL4 gear oil with minimal to no friction modifiers so synchronizers do not slip)

does not need one. the hand brake serves as one for the left side, provided you're not busy enough rowing gears already, and the door panel serves as the right arm rest.

you're welcome.

i don't think if any owner look-see would be sufficient, you want someone good with body panels, and a workshop with lifter to jack up the car to inspect every nook and cranny of the car and if there was any collision before on the main structural body of the car (the panels and replaceable sub frame not too critical if you're not OCD on car condition)
because that is what will affect the handling of the car and is really probably the only reason one would be its handling (assuming you're getting it to have fun/performance oriented, instead of just looks, or because it is a 2 door coupe for relatively cheap)

and of course, not forgetting the report services (i dont recommend cheap ones like scrut that ONLY check on the auction slip)

Click bait lol
Toyota officially was selling current 86 for over 300k.
Best to expect it over 300k then less disappointment and you may even have exceeding expectations if motor image really delivers!

Then add on annual road tax of 2.4 liter engine lol
Overall yes it is a better car, at a cost.

All snake rat one nest

i'll be surprised if you can still get G spec.
the pricing between the specs arent huge regardless how dealers try to market them

there's many more variants actually, however yes the 2 main ones are the kosong spec and GT spec
older version manual (not sure if the same was for auto) the kosong spec don't even come with LSD
later on LSD became standard regardless of specs

why not just get a lower mileage GT? car is abundant at no shortage, no need to rush purchases.

My own car pulling with first 70Mai model

isr25 speed isn't much faster than the Civic on CVT, but the raw ness, feedback, engagement, cannot be found on the Civic.

But yes, both cars are from 2 different worlds make for very different purposes that happen to cross each other in the modern era when lines separating between both worlds are blurred.

summary:
- your friend failed at managing expectations
- one of those guys that compare and have his happiness robbed because of comparing.
- there's ALWAYS something faster/bigger/better, so where is your friend's comparison end?

i can always say the GT86 will handle better than a beemer, but if he don't know how to utilize it, then it is pointless right?
similarly to how people say Mazda 3 driving dynamics is better, but a Civic FE got turbo that easily masks whatever benefit a Mazda 3 offer.
the GT86 vs a beemer is one such difference at a higher/more expensive scale.

now for your questions:
1) yes completely rubbish
2) get better at driving i guess? or maybe,
3) learn how to deal with oversteer/drifts?
4) nope never. fell in love with the GT86 (tested one back in 2016/2017 or so) and my own GT86since day 1 (Dec 2017) I drove it until today.
5) first thoughts? Awesome shifter! Close ratio 6 speed manual! Awesome steering awesome car!

User Onlinekabyss87 post Jan 27 2021, 02:14 PM Return to original view | Post #1

so you trying to justify yourself in not getting one? you either get or you don't get the car

You already have the answers already

Owning a car in general is going to be a financial mistake, much worse an actual sports car.

But if got can afford one, or willing to YOLO and deal with the repercussions, who are we to judge how you spend your own money?