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 LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXVIII, Wira 4ever.....

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outpace
post Jul 30 2012, 11:58 AM

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Guys, have anyone ever encountered rising engine oil level?

when checking engine level this morning, condition cold, level ground as usual, the dip shows engine oil is much higher than 2 days ago when I checked.
radiator checked, no leakage of radiator liquid.

what's wrong? fuel?

outpace
post Jul 30 2012, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(samfisher @ Jul 30 2012, 02:13 PM)
hi guys..need clarification about my problem...when i do a hard turn (left or right), there is tak tak tak tak sound...anyone know where the sound came from?...is it the driveshaft?...my car will vibrate like hell if my meter pass 120 km/h...doing balancing and allignment recently....already adjust chamber and still got the problem...tyre "makan dalam" a bit...please help.. icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif

thanks  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
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sounds like driveshaft, ever check?
outpace
post Jul 30 2012, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(cute_boboi @ Jul 30 2012, 02:20 PM)
How much higher on the dipstick ? 1mm ? 5mm ? 10mm ?
hmm.gif

Try do few more daily cold-check.
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It's like 5mm higher than last time reading, 2 days ago.
I suspected petrol mix into it. No solid evidence yet. but I checked just now in afternoon, it backs to normal. hmm.gif

checked through net, found this :
""""-In certain cases, the oil level may have risen since the last time you checked. This could be due to condensed water (from combustion), condensed fuel or a coolant leak - all are causes for concern.
-Fuel-diluted motor oil (from blow-by or leakage) can substantially reduce oil viscosity and thin additive concentration. The odor of diesel fuel can often be detected right from the dipstick.
-Free and emulsified water is harmful to the oil and the engine. For short-trip drivers, water condensation may be more acute if your engine has the flexible fuel vehicle (FFV) option and you are burning an alcohol-gasoline fuel blend. It is important to remember that combustion produces water in your engine - more water than the fuel consumed. Most of the water goes out the tailpipe, but if the engine is cool, much of it may condense in the crankcase.
-A simple way to detect water in used motor oil is to put a drop of oil from the dipstick on a hot exhaust manifold. If it crackles (sounds like bacon frying) this is an indication of water contamination. Beware that there is some risk that the drop of oil may catch fire.
-Brand new automobiles imported from Japan may have a high oil level due to short-run engine starts (as many as 50) required when the vehicle is transported from the assembly plant, across the ocean, and finally to the dealer’s lot. In this case, an oil and filter change may be merited.
-Coolant leak is a serious problem relating to high oil level. See Lesson No. 5.
Whatever the cause of the high oil level, the condition needs to be quickly corrected.
Note: accidental overfilling oil into your engine can cause problems too. As the crankshaft rotates it will churn the oil, causing aeration and eventually sustained foam may form. This can lead to overheated motor oil, oxidation and a loss of oil pressure. Spongy aerated oil is hard to pump. It starves the engine and critical lubricated surfaces."""""
http://www.mycarforum.com/index.php?showtopic=2650644&st=60

So I guess it fuel mix, as no contamination in my radiator.


Added on July 30, 2012, 2:56 pm
QUOTE(samfisher @ Jul 30 2012, 02:21 PM)
nope... sweat.gif ...15 years old car...maybe is it the time to change it?....any other possibility to confirm it is the driveshaft problem?... hmm.gif
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You have every reason to change the car rclxms.gif even if it is 5months old icon_rolleyes.gif

few common causes led to vibration at high speed
: 1, uneven tyres (includes imbalance tyre),
2, deformed rims,
3, problematic absorber and
4, drive shaft issue.

as you noted there is tak tak tak when you threw your car into corner, 1 and 2 are irrelevant, I have no experience in 3 tongue.gif

4 is safer guess and also I had experienced when the ball joint gao dim liao.

sifu-sifu should be able to give you mroe accurate answer.

This post has been edited by outpace: Jul 30 2012, 02:56 PM
outpace
post Jul 30 2012, 05:40 PM

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Thanks.

Really? I always check the oil level, morning before depart.
interesting suggestion but 20 minutes of precious sleeping time is not joking tongue.gif
outpace
post Jul 31 2012, 09:38 AM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Jul 30 2012, 06:31 PM)
sleeping time? lols i dun get it ... im lost
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I mean early in the morning, I would prefer to sleep longer time rather than start and wait it cool down gauge the oil. laugh.gif
outpace
post Aug 1 2012, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(eugenetwh @ Jul 31 2012, 10:14 PM)
y no people reply me one? =(
Damn long no lurk here liao... Gratz on the new thread!!! Btw, my wira... tat day i went a lil bit crazy with ma fren... after u turn.. i step on the gas... then the car accelerate hard... then at bout 100 i smell some burning smell in the cabin... then my fren say gt some smoke from the exhaust...

wats wrong with it? 4g15 carb auto..
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casue no one really knows what's burning. for carb, think it is rather easy car to maintain, just that fuel consumption is higher.

repeat the thing again and drive to work shop, show them white smoke. burning not completed? piston ring, valve seal, all possible if not more causes


Added on August 1, 2012, 10:07 am
QUOTE(mxsteven @ Jul 31 2012, 04:31 PM)
as long there is oil between the min and max level should be ok liow.... if over the max level means too much.... even after i park my car for a week without start, it should be at the max level never exceed. after start the car and warm up and let it cold down, it will be at the level above half somewhere 3/4
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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Jul 31 2012, 02:32 PM)
Do it at night before you sleep lor laugh.gif
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QUOTE(cute_boboi @ Jul 31 2012, 12:15 PM)
doh.gif  Did you do the check on same condition previously ?

The dip-stick level will be different on all these occasion:
1) After drive and immediate check.
2) After drive and wait 5/10/15/30 minutes.
3) Cold check in morning (without driving for 4-8 hours)

Then you have to use own judgement to compensate slightly for it, as above:
1) the level will be normal or slightly under, but not low-limit.
2) the level will be normal or slightly higher by 1-5mm, but not high-limit
3) the level will be above normal, about 5-15mm, but not high-limit.
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one notable thing that I have done prior to that morning oil check was that I opened up the hood and let the cold air cool the engine down a bit b4 going to sleep, then discovered the oil level rises much next morning, so i think the oil drop to bottom

anyway, after 200KM + drive yesterday, it came back to normal level. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by outpace: Aug 1 2012, 10:07 AM
outpace
post Aug 14 2012, 04:25 PM

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[quote=IvanWong1989,Aug 14 2012, 02:39 PM]
erm.. i drove it today.. maybe i was imagining things. It's ok now. everything normal. haha

=.=.. i aso duno i got kena potong or not. lol..

change oil filter, engine oil, clean TB, and the air intake thingy, change spark plugs, refill anti rust coolant.

all for rm 130.



what engine oil your car using? sounds like reasonable pricing
outpace
post Aug 15 2012, 06:26 PM

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QUOTE(dont8cum @ Aug 14 2012, 05:26 PM)
thats damn cheap man. he told u just to "clean" throttle body, or he say "reprogramme throttle body"?

cuz my workshop man tell me he will REPROGRAM it. just the service TB thing is already 100++
den change engine oil and normal service everything, total cost is 300 liddat. i think i'm the one kena potong
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Guess you are if you are VDO as like me.
where's your location ? blink.gif shakehead.gif blush.gif hmm.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif

VDO, TB cleaning thing (spray some red colour detergent, brush, air dry) + plug in that handheld device, deleted some error code, if not mistaken, he charged me RM60. Cost RM60-RM80 in JB.


I guess RM300 for :
engine oil change including labour + point checking/ services (you can do at home lah) + TB cleaning
if only he give me branded (Shell, Mobil, Petronas, Havoline, Castrol, Idemitsu and etc) fully synthetic oil, also depends how trust-able that shop is, rumors are that some shops selling fake oil. biggrin.gif



outpace
post Aug 16 2012, 02:48 PM

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QUOTE(IvanWong1989 @ Aug 15 2012, 08:12 PM)
excuse me all.. erm. may i ask..
when u want to refuel, ya open the fuel cap right. is there suppose to be vacuum sound of air pshshhhhhhh? or not?

edit:

also, i dun get what is VDO or MMC...

seen the word alot in the forum.. but i noobie duno what it means. just curious. some say VDO bad? ym car's vdo
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Kindly refer to post 304, by “salimbest83”
outpace
post Aug 17 2012, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(IamRacist @ Aug 17 2012, 04:29 AM)
I drove blm and felt real hard to accelerate to 40kmph. Sluggish to move from dead stop, don't have that low rev torque compared to my 1.6 wira and I need to rev more than 3000rpm on blm to keep in same  acceleration pace as 2500rpm with my car. Maybe I am not used to blm?
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cause my 1.5 3speed A is also very different from your 1.6 blush.gif
outpace
post Aug 22 2012, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(SinS @ Aug 22 2012, 10:56 AM)
Anyone know how much it cost to replace wira 1.3 driveshaft or CV joint?
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Changed RM180 to RM200 per side for 1.5.
I heard there are China made new driveshaft and recond type (joints are new only). not really sure about the market prevailing type.
outpace
post Aug 22 2012, 02:31 PM

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QUOTE(SinS @ Aug 22 2012, 02:29 PM)
RM180 to RM200 is local made or?...
*
local, which mean recond type from sparepart shop loh

outpace
post Aug 25 2012, 09:53 AM

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QUOTE(IamRacist @ Aug 24 2012, 11:39 PM)
Oh, I see. No wonder my foreman says 'A' on the pulley no power when I insist him to set it the first time.
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how do you guys play the game ? I'm driving VDO and normal crank shaft pulley, can play?

outpace
post Aug 27 2012, 07:15 PM

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QUOTE(IamRacist @ Aug 25 2012, 10:39 AM)
Possible but more hassle because you have to dismantle the timing belt. By the way it's called camshaft pulley, crankshaft pulley is the one at the bottom and the only reason to change that to an aftermarket version is to lighten the weight therefore allowing the engine to rev slightly faster and responsive. Get an adjustable cam pulley then you can test it out yourself and it's fun too if you know how to D.I.Y. Price is not really expensive, around $150.
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LOL, sorry for the crakshaft pulley, hahaha, guess it doesn't have aftermarket/ performance alternative version of crankshaft pulley

I saw some commercial info stating, the camshaft pulley must equipped with rubber to cushion the vibration, that's why some LCP like "mythelogy" is costing 500-600. Any comment?


Added on August 27, 2012, 7:16 pm
QUOTE(k3v_84 @ Aug 27 2012, 12:54 AM)
I bought s/hand 240cc injector @ rm150 only... Anyway, what cc u looking for? I have 1 set of 210cc... tongue.gif
Btw, yours not as high fc as mine... Rm50 can go 150km only... (due to incompatible ecu) tongue.gif
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RM50 go for 150KM???????? drink or leak?? shocking.gif

This post has been edited by outpace: Aug 27 2012, 07:16 PM
outpace
post Aug 27 2012, 07:19 PM

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QUOTE(arsengal @ Aug 27 2012, 04:55 PM)
Today, I went to the pump station to fill my nearly empty WiSE tank. Since I wanted to clock how many km I can go w full tank, I fill full tank lah. What's strange is, eventhough I've already filled up to RM80, the tank is still not full liao  shakehead.gif  I bend down and look at the bottom of the car,  shocking.gif woah fuel is leaking out heavily  doh.gif  Straight away went to SC and get it checked, the fuel hose bocor sudah. No wonder I didn't get the 'psssssssshhhh' sound when I open the fuel cap, and my fuel also drain a bit faster lately. Heads up to you guys who has a similar problem, try checking your fuel hose.
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felt lucky for you, it's darn dangerous, I had such experience and never want to try again, would need to claim insurance if anything happen.


Added on August 27, 2012, 7:21 pm
QUOTE(carcraze66 @ Aug 27 2012, 07:18 PM)
.....

anyway i plan to install the chassis alignment kit/stiff rings to improve comfort...at least that one can remove and i dont see any bad sides about it..haha..




thanks biggrin.gif
*
I'm also very interested on this chassis alignment thing. How much roughly it cost?any idea? why?
quite rare to hear about it.

This post has been edited by outpace: Aug 27 2012, 07:21 PM
outpace
post Aug 29 2012, 01:00 PM

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QUOTE(arsengal @ Aug 27 2012, 07:56 PM)
Luckily for me I noticed it today. The spillage was huge. Your hose was the problem also?
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yup, fuel hose connected to throttle body, inside engine bay, heavy petrol odor when driving, went to pawn shop get one, RM30, install RM10


Added on August 29, 2012, 1:01 pm
QUOTE(carcraze66 @ Aug 27 2012, 08:15 PM)
normall outside selling is around RM200-RM250...there are few brands which i think quite ok...like race tech of stiffring... smile.gif
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I saw racetech facebook selling for 170 i guess, but no installation, is installation expensive?


Added on August 29, 2012, 1:02 pm
QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Aug 27 2012, 08:17 PM)
hi to all the sifu...
any suggestion for a good & affordable price for voltage stabilizer...?
i think my 3 year ++ old VS not really stable adi...
*
there are many selling in lowyat, how you notice your VS not stable?

This post has been edited by outpace: Aug 29 2012, 01:02 PM
outpace
post Aug 30 2012, 07:42 PM

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QUOTE(Oly @ Aug 29 2012, 02:02 PM)
who want race tech cak?..im selling mine...rm150...
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CAK can be reused?
Yours is new set is it? why sell it off?


Added on August 30, 2012, 7:53 pm
QUOTE(carcraze66 @ Aug 29 2012, 07:57 PM)
bro regarding the fuel hose right...for mine is carburetor where is the fuel hose ar? any sifu mind to tell me where isit? cause i ALWAYS smell heavy petrol odor in my car but till now i dont know where it come from..hahaha  sweat.gif
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I'm having problem with the braided hose on the left, notice fuel leaking out of my car.

user posted image

not sure about carburetor wira

This post has been edited by outpace: Aug 30 2012, 07:53 PM
outpace
post Sep 10 2012, 11:16 AM

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drive shaft kong already.
planning to change both sides, new DS (not recond one!) only comes from CHina now, there's one brand name GSP, so looks like I'm going to settle for that.

also, changing DS oil seal, I heard there are different kind varies from premium quality to soso quality. the most common one is NOK, below RM10, however I was introduced to another type, cost near to RM20 one pcs (ex workmanship), not really sure which one to take up.
outpace
post Sep 10 2012, 06:59 PM

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QUOTE(SinS @ Sep 10 2012, 05:06 PM)
Bro, mind to share how much you're quoted for the GSP Driveshaft for each side?... biggrin.gif
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Both sides, same price RM150 each. Bought from spare part shop excluding installation.
outpace
post Sep 11 2012, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(SinS @ Sep 10 2012, 11:06 PM)
Price seems reasonable to me... thumbup.gif
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workshop will quote you 180 to 220, but please make sure they get new DS for you, there are quite a few brands according to my 4man friend, there are also re-cond type outside, they change the joint and use back the rod, to me, it's waste of time, energy and money.
Make sure your workshop won't do this.

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