QUOTE(efaceninja @ Oct 1 2013, 10:57 PM)
So that's means that align Toe & align Chamber is different charges??? ie:
align toe for 4 wheels = RM 2x
align chamber for 1 wheel = RM 3x, 2 wheel = RM 6x (provided it is already adjustable)
is it correct?? why align chamber seems much more expensive??
what did you mean not 1 time job?
in my case, my ride is hyundai i10 FL, last time kena tukar adjustable chamber nut (RM80/pc) x 2 front tyre.
"after the bolt the angle wont lari anymore" meaning if i don't hit pothole hard or something, the chamber angle usually won't lari anymore even if it is adjustable chamber nut?
i dunno what LMST means, but i10's suspension front is macpherson strut, rear is coupled torsion beam axle (read direct from brochure, me not so familiar with suspension)
actually the READING is typically rm20-40
basically just hooking up the measuring/sensors to your car. in fact, Malaysia has among the cheapest alignment charges/service compared to other countries and hence most work/tireshops tend to cheat and upmark their other services such as camber nuts.
then AFTER READING, per adjustment (be it toe/caster/camber) can be rm5-20 per wheel, or maybe rm40 for any adjustment any wheel. really depends on the work/tireshop
some shops bought more expensive (and probably better/more accurate calibration/reading and they think it's justifiable to charge more, or maybe their hands on/experience justify their price.
good Alignment technician don't just adjust from the machine alone and call it a day, a test drive is a must to get actual road driving feedback and results.
you're ESSENTIALLY buying his man hours and expertise. go find out what's the average manhour labor charges on some service center or even part time supermarket job. and then compare with how much time is spent on the wheels/test driving/mounting the tools on the wheels etc.
oh and check out these "cheap china brands":
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/price-of-w...nt-machine.htmlfew k usd? suddenly not so cheap anymore eh?
rm20-40 per alignment, it'll take a bit of time to earn back your investment. assuming the machine does not need maintenance/repairs.
i didn't even know about it until
nestum shared it with me

camber adjustable bolts are ALWAYS much weaker than factory/OEM bolts. unless you had been in major accidents/alteration that caused the camber/alignment to run off, and/or you have specific needs (eg: track driving, cornering like a total retard), then you should NOT replace the original bolt.
if you already replaced however, do get it check once every few weeks/months or at least every tire rotation every 5-15k km depending on your tire's wear rate/observation.
LMST =
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proton_Saga#P...2.80.93_2008.29with all said and done, personally i run negative 2.5-2.7 and i STILL have my outer tire shoulder wearing faster than the inner shoulder. admittedly yes i drive like an idiot but i am merely pointing out an example of those "needs" and the alignment price/camber nut etc is all within my own means of justification.