Happens to my own City 2001 too. But mine is not running with CVT . Mine is 4AT. What i do is, when u wanna accelerate and it jerks, you let go the pedal totally and pedal again to half throttle,just give some distance from the car in front then you wont bang so easily. Keep doing this and the problem will disappear. Mine no more already at least. Mechanic told me is the valve inside the throttle body got stucked due to low rev driving all the time.

It happens to my fren's first generation toyota altis as well.

Hope i help u.

when was the last time you changed your spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body?

Thanks bro.

I leave this to my Honda service centre. But dunno why this USJ really did poorly.

Last service cost RM330. Previously cost RM1,500 and another cost RM1,300

Paid, still got problem. Service my front brake, cost RM300++ and feels like no difference.

Change belt, told them to tighten up, cost RM300++ still got the tweeting sound..

Don't go USJ Honda service centre. They are expensive and service sucks. You always need to go back 2nd or 3rd time.

If it ain't because it's near my office, I surely don't give them service.

you've yet to answer what i asked you bro. I guess you should give it a clean and check the condition of the plugs

Just for sharing.

Mine 2008 Honda City Vtec also encounter same issue, since mileage about 60,000km. Now my car clock about 94,000km.
When stop at traffic light - D mode, + pressing brake + aircond ON / OFF (usually morning / after work, car cool down for few hours), rpm suddenly drop from to about 300rpm...then it hit back up to about 1000rpm again as normal...this occur several time directly (about 5~6 jerking). If quickly shift from D to N, jerking stop.

This issue not occur every time when stop....but almost one / two day sure will got. In worst case, if heavy traffic jam - stop - go - stop -go...car will slightly jerk forward, but engine not dead.

I have send my car to Honda Kulim & Sungai Petani.

Honda Kulim technician not able to detect the jerking when test drive....
AT Honda Kulim, i have done the following but jerking not solve:
-- check EGR Valve (first trial)
-- clean throttle body (together with check EGR Valve)
-- flushing A/T gear box (2nd trial about 70,000km)
-- change spark plug (recently about 90,000km)

This of course include those normal service such as change A/T oil as per Honda service interval (about every 20,000km if not mistaken, and service Air Cond every 25,000km).

So recently i have send to Honda Sungai Petani, drop my car there for almost 2 weeks. After car overnight there, technician next morning when test drive so luckily detected the above said jerking issue when stop at traffic light. They did the following:
-- clean throttle body (said problem solve..... but when i test still jerking..so car have to leave there.... this of course not charging any cost since problem not solve, the throttle body is not the root cause).
-- adjust lifting and check using Honda module (not sure what is that, some sort of computer i think), BUT problem remain, still got jerking after i collect the car one week later from service center. So car have to quarantine again.
-- final rectification: CLEAN AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD. Technician said inside air intake manifold got lots of carbon accumulate, they even have to use some sand paper to remove it. Normal carbon cleaning is only at throttle body, cleaning air intake manifold he said require a bit more work. If throttle body cleaning not successful, air intake manifold should then be cleaned.

So, after car drop at Honda Sungai Petani for almost 2 weeks, finally yesterday i collect my car. And the whole day i drive and stop and drive, so far (touch wood), the jerking issue is no more. I will monitor it again, hopefully this will completely solve. I keep reminding them that don't simply change the thing without properly knowing the root cause, as i have did many in Honda Kulim but problem still persist. But of course Honda Kulim got require my permission when they want to / suggest the change.

I have search thru the website, LOWYAT, AUTOWORD FORUM, TEAMCITY...mostly said change flywheel, or worst case is gearbox. I got mentioned this FLYWHEEL to technician, they said if change flywheel they have to take out the gearbox....so normally will not do this first....unless the flywheel got sound....then only will do it.

So, for those who having the same issue, you guys may take this as a reference, maybe clean your air intake manifold. Cost about RM100.
Hopefully not up to changing flywheel or gearbox (if these are the root cause). Hope this help, and touch wood my city jerking not repeat anymore...will monitor and update later.

This post has been edited by CYCHEAH6007: Nov 18 2012, 06:56 AM

Bro,,, any update on your car?>???

problem solve?

my car jerking was diagnose with plug coil problem by HSC. my colleague also had the same problem and solved. I am going to replace the plug coil my self for RM750.

i know the problem. basically it's nothing to do with the CVT and there are a few problems that might have the same symptoms. i will list down most common ones first:

1. sparkplugs: Honda City 1.5 CVT uses iridium plugs. According to honda the plugs have lifespan of 100,000km but have known to be faulty even at 60k if you constantly rev over 5k RPM. mine died at 70,000km because i'm a vtec person.
symptoms: doesn't cause that much vibration but you will notice the RPM will dip suddenly causing the car to jerk at times when idling and also when slow accelleration. many have feared that their CVT have problems but this is not the case. just change the plugs. not any plugs because you have to use the same factory NGK iridium plugs. Damage: RM200+/set
Solution: replace

2. intake are control valve (IACV): most common issue associated with RPM drop when stopping, also when your aircon compressor kicks in. This version of honda city do not use an electronic sensor, the IACV is more of an actuator that controls the air flow to maintain stable idling. It controls air when you press on the brakes, turn your steering wheel, aircon kicks in, putting in D, etc. pretty much everything. this module rarely spoils but it can get dirty causing unstable idling when you do one of the above. if left unchecked, it can also lead to flywheel problem which is your next problem.
symptoms: RPM drops rapidly when you brake, compressor kicks in, turn your wheel, put on D.
Solution: just need to clean it but that's the tricky part. the IACV is screwed onto the throttle body with 4 security torx screws and no workshop have the key to open it. Honda CC will not bother to clean it for you and most probably ask you to change the entire throttle body. After some pain aching time, i got my friend to buy the security torx screw set for his workshop and i fixed the problem there.

3. flywheel: the CVT version uses a flywheel that sort of looks like a clutch, torque converter combo. There are 4 springs on this thing that can get loose over time. if this happens, it will increase the vibration and cause some crackling sound then the RPM drops too low.
Symptoms: most noticable when you put on reverse. RPM drops and engine seem to vibrate uncontrollably. you will hear the some crackling sound (that's actually the sound of your flywheel) just before your gear frees itself automatically and the RPM kicks back up by your ECU. This feature is meant to protect your engine and transmission but can get annoying at times.
Solution: change flywheel set for RM1400 at any Honda CC.


Honda City CVT issues: earlier models had issue with CVT but is only associated with aeroplane noises when idling and cruising. This problem was fixed and no longer present itself after the 2005 model. i believe they made the steel belt bigger and stronger. Many are also caused by workshops unfamiliar with CVT and used ATF when they should have used CVTF. Just make sure you service and replace the CVTF every 18,000km and you are safe. My Honda City Vtec 2007 model is already nearing 300,000km mileage and the CVT still works perfectly.

Have you ask the SC to check your engine mounting? Your Honda city should have 3 nos of engine mounting. Worn out engine mounting may cause this jerking while accelerating...

These are the only issue i've ever had with my honda. no other issues. So i would still think it's a good car to drive.

IS it the current honda city or the previous one that is 2005 hcity.

that one model is notorious for cvt jerking due to mistaken used of atf gb oil when it should be cvtf gb oil. widely known then, those years.

I own a 2005 vtec city....but never encountered this problem coz mine used cvtf all along.

if the current city that not use cvt then idk wat cause it....but maybe gb

IS it the current honda city or the previous one that is 2005 hcity.

that one model is notorious for cvt jerking due to mistaken used of atf gb oil when it should be cvtf gb oil. widely known then, those years.

I own a 2005 vtec city....but never encountered this problem coz mine used cvtf all along.

if the current city that not use cvt then idk wat cause it....but maybe gb

2005 vtec city.
manage to pin point the problem, is the flywheel dry clutch plate worn,
apparently it using dry clutch system, so you need to change clutch plate just like any manual cars

thx for the replies

bro how much is that, if replaced from honda sc or outside job? is it big job or small

first time hear that leh...jerk due to that issue...

and u said honda usj cant find the problem so who actually did if honda themselves couldnt

just say different SC have different skill levels

changed at honda ~rm1200 (include some other works)

This post has been edited by jvcpcv55: Sep 8 2013, 12:41 PM

Honda city jerking is either the flywheel or iridium plugs. CVT no issues if you service regularly.

good info

sg long honda quote me 1.7k

on mudah.com i found ppl selling ori flywheel for 650

not yet decide where to get it fix

any updates for the rpm jerking?