Members here.. comparing Falken Ziex, Yokohama A-drive, and Hankook V12.. which 1 is better?

Main criteria to take into consideration is noise level should be low, and treadwear rating should be high.. as for grip, to me, my Conti CC1 also produced enough grip already.. hehe..

My opinion, V12 is good performance tire, noise level very high though, treadwear also high.. For falken Zien 912/522 is quite quiet, grip is good also.. better than NS500 and better than CC1.

If wan tayar tahan lama & quiet, I suggest u throw all options out the window and get a Yokohama Advan DB. Any Uni-directional hard compound tyres are gonna be noisy when the thread wears down to about 80%.

Or if you got the dough to spend, go Potenza RE050 or Toyo T-1R. Soft compound, Uni-directional but grips well & quiet. Till now mine still quite quiet TBH

whats wrong with A-Drive? Y U NO MENTION?

i've tried falken before.. not bad..

This post has been edited by mosh: Jun 27 2012, 12:51 PM

A drive? Murah, grip tak cantik, comfort good, threadwear average = tested on my Dad's innova. Lol.

my dad dont let me pump the tires more than 205kPa.. now the steering feels like a dumbbell and FC shoot up to 9.0l++

V12 is indeed noisy once it down to 70% or lesser but in my opinion not much noiser than NCT5 at 60%. Its the best performance tyres among the three. 912 for me is not worth it...urr...except for the price if you want to compare to V12. V12 trumped it in ALL aspect and probably comes to same with noise. 912 although quiet initially, has a number of reports of getting extremely noisy once worn down 70% and lesser, so its no better than V12 while performance lose kaw kaw to V12. It is cheaper tho....five years ago, its abt same price with V12, so once V12 comes out, 912 lose out a lot...

I'm still using V12 for my City and will likely continue using the same tyres when change. Good dry performance, great wet traction, soft tyres for hard suspension City makes it the "perfect" balance performance tyres for City. For others, I would have go for PS3 tho...less noisy at least up to now in my OTHER city. Cost a bomb tho without my dealer pricing..

So sensitive? Pump over also he can feel?

That is definitely underinflation. Even the car stock requires 210kpa front and 190 rear. Underinflation not only increase FC but will cause damage to your tyre shoulder not to mentioned increased tyre wears. Although its only 5 kpa, but I feel the best pressure is actually at 220kpa front and corresponding increment at rear. I too lazy to check air often, so overinflate slightly to 235kpa. With PE soft suspension and stock NCT5 tyres, its actually still comfortable to ride.

Why would your dad wanted to underinflate tyres???

So, any idea when can 'use' T-1R? If u know what I mean..

he watching me pump..

yea.. i explained that.. he said mercs also around 30psi... so mine should be lower

I dont like Yokohama line of tires except Advan dB.. Yoko tires are generally soft walled and combi top soft bottom hard compound, giving u poorer cornering performance, and tires get very noisy after the initial soft grippy rubber wears off.. Poor grip too..

Toyo T1-R.. All time tire i will swear by to be the best.. Quiet soft compound, medium hard walls.. So cornering is good, comfort is good too.. but tires tend to wear off faster a bit.. can last around 40k km.. But worth the money.. Not to mention excellent wet grip also..

so under pressured.. PE heavy car somemore.. FC sure shoot like no where.. mine front 230kpa and 210 back is the best combi so far..

Isnt there a sticker with the table for tire air pressure at the door or door frame? point that to him lah

Advan DB all made in Japan, harga like gila wann..

After that u drive alone, cannot pump back meh?

PS: Did he watch you pee too?

forgotten bout that

when i was still a kid i guess...

Car feels weak now, current engine oil still cannot match Magnatec. Car also feels floaty, maybe absorber or maybe the tyres alignment. Who can pimp up my car?

Err...compare to Mercs kah....each car got its different weight ratio, length, etc. Point out the sticker marking on your driver's door indicating the CORRECT tyre pressure for PE. Do tell him each car has its own pressure range that are tested based on engine weight vs chassis, length etc. The manufacturer sticker is the best indicator for "standard" tyre pressure for PE. Do show him the sticker by the driver's door.

Also, the pressure indicated there is cold pressure meaning pressure in the morning AND the car has not been driven out yet. Once driven out, the pressure is definitely higher than the indicated ones. If its a 2km range from house to pump, just add at least 10kpa to it, thats 220kpa fron 210 rear. If driven for a longer distance it can be 20-40kpa difference, not accurate anymore. I would add 20kpa to the sticker pressure to at least makes up the difference when the air become cold again for those under 2km distance.


This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 27 2012, 03:14 PM

Duit tarak bro..

Erm.. Lu aa.. Kasi cakap sama lu punya papa.. Dia punya Ben-si punya plesure, 30 lepan 35 belakang.. Ben-si punya itu maciam pasai dia olang punya keleta lear whil dlive maaaa.. Belakang kena kasi plesure tinggi sikit..

Itu maciam celita ah, lu papa punya Ben-si mana boleh kasi kompe sama PE leh? Dia punya Ben-si apa selis? S-klas ala oto-inflater punya wor..

Lain keleta lain stail la alik..

Advan dB cheap lar.. Compared to Michelin & Goodyear..