my new saga flx front side windows,both can move down 100%....but rear side both window cant move down 100%,only can move down around 65%,izit consider normal?

IT IS STILL NORMAL. 

Yes normal. It is because of safety reason

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Added on May 18, 2012, 11:37 amSpeaking of antenna, I like to ask 1 question. I love to play red.fm on my car. But my radio was program like this "RED.FM xxxxx SARIMAH".. How to remove "xxxxx SARIMAH"??

SOOooo...today got a few hours free, nothing better to do so saje saje went to a Perodua dealership and requested to test drive the LBLP.

Once we got in the car, the SA was enthusiastic, explaining to me some of the features (Which of course I already know), and manage to sneak in a few swipes at Proton as well. Being abit impatient, I told him to buckle up coz I wanna start the test drive.

As soon as I turn into the main road, he notice that it was getting dark, as in it was going to rain. A look at his face I know what he's thinking dy, his dealership is one of those who frowns upon test drives in the rain.

So, he starts talking about the car's awesome TURNING RADIUS, and tells me he will demonstrate to me how small it is. He ask me to pull over on a 2 lane road, which still had cars coming and going, AND ASK ME TO MAKE A U TURN. I was of course hesitant la, coz got cars. But since he said so, takkan I take him on a joyride, so when a window of opportunity appeared, I quickly made a U TURN and began driving back to the dealership, parked the car and thus ended the test drive.

So, after today's "test drive", I am happy to report that the LBLP can, indeed, make a U TURN on a two lane road.
WTFISTHISSHIT.com     

Hi & Good Morning, Everyone!!

Juz2share...

There's a round black rubber plug at side of each door in line with door handle.
Remove that "plug".
A Philips head screw can be seen in centre of hole.

Chk if that screw is fully tightened.

Fyi mine was : 1 fully tightened BUT the other 3 were VERY LOOSE!!

I hv oledi tightened them.

Dunno, if not tightened, this cld be a source of noises from door or might cause any probs in future...

Ok, Bro...
Juz took pics juz 4yu...

Yup, me also tested after tightening only one first.
IINM Dun think that screw does anything else except to hold door handle in place.

Re 3 screws @ lock area, mine were oledi tight.
So feel shld also not be loose. IINM they're for holding that end of lock mechanism in place there.

All these are assembly oversight items. QC guy juz looked 2C the screws were there nia!!! Nvr chk-ed tightened properly or not!!

still the best comment/advice, davidke20.
conclude: the auto P must acts together with handbrake. cheers.
agree that if the core problem is the design of handbrake cable, most probably proton wont go for designing a new one to suit saga flx as designing could cost a lots. unless DRBHCOM want it solved or it simply cos by quality of the drumbrake.

want to know any of you face dashboard making noise problem other than drumbrake issue? this is another common problem to saga flx. (from my research: drumbrake and dashboard sound occur to many saga).

Partly agree wt u, but 1 must bear in mind, Plotong car has the HAIEST servis rekod in the world, partly bcoz its cheap to repair! According to my mech, even new car before warranty habis people ady send in to put neon lamp la, change head unit(sound sistem), change cikai steering wheel, put tweeter etc etc

The problem is, u r advise to change the metal clip everytime u pull out the prrrastic parts! How many of us did this? Prolly 0, may be 1 in a million bcoz the clip snapped whilst pulling out. 1 must understand the metal clip is made to deaden the mounting for both d|ck & pu$$y side, once got in cannot come out. After pull out, either the prastic kena sliced by the metal clip, or the metal clip kena kapit, reassemble a loosen clip will result in massive rattling noise! This is the major culprit causes all the unwanted "techno beat" in car.

My 16 years old WIGA A/B went through a thorough "pest control" project 2 years ago, when my sifu dismentle every single prrastic cover in the car, had them replaced with brand new clips, all the mice & hemster got away immediately! Came with a crazy bill of RM96! 48pcs metal clips * RM2/pc. That was 1 expansive experience and came with great discount when I troubleshoot my ISWAGA. I use trashbin prasstic to wrap the plastic mounting, heat it up with lighter so it melt on the surface, re-expand the old clip, force it back to the plastic mounting before I plug them back on the car. Result is, as good as NEW Total costing as below:

1.5 x black trash bin bag
2 x Aladdin lighter
2 days weekend labor
1 scratch mark on my finger + some blood

All in all, every car has the potential to develope mouse squeeky noise in the car, matter of how 1 handle it, or whether change metal clip after dismentle. Believe it or not, after your 1st aircon servis, there comes the rattling sound from glove compartment. After replace the snapped shiftstick tensioner(gear spring we call), then the whole gear/henbrek/radio console start to make noise.

Bcoz weekend is the only days:

1) No need to wake up early to grab GAGA's key
2) Spend time with children & wifu
3) Go soping
4) SiuYi notti with galfren (that's why komplen)
5) r3apers notti with wifu (that's why come late)
6) No need to go all the way to Puchong
7) No need to go work
8) Play FB game night & day
9) Play Diablo
10) Watch hong kee series wholeday

Most of all, need to do chores, clean house, get to see the pretty neighbour carwash, u know la they wet their t-shirts

if pump manually no problem.If auto fill,the jumper always jump aroun RM 50~RM55 for full tank in the case 5 bar 

Why slowest rate?

I know u guys jealous me England better than u mar, that's why cum bad mouth me lar. Think u is smart? All blacks am new jiland ler. Luzer

The last part was what I meant, nothing to do with ECU.

The getrag tranny has shorter ratios than the FL/BLM tranny. I'm wondering if that is because it is more efficient for the IAFM+ engine.

MFA30A is the original Aichi Kikai tranny on BLM and FL, I'm guessing the Getrag one is 5MTT200A.

Yes, at first glance the Getrag ratios seem shorter than the AK tranny, but don't forget to multiply by the final drive (AK 4.705, Getrag 3.8). If you do this, the ratios look like this:

Gear No./AK ratio/Getrag ratio

1 / 15.682 / 13.471
2 / 9.194 / 7.771
3 / 6.046 / 5.373
4 / 4.357 / 4.005
5 / 3.552 / 3.336

Those of you having the AK tranny will know that the ratios are really short. It's good for power and acceleration, especially since Campro has lousy low end torque, but then again I still think it's too low. My typical shifting pattern is like this: 1st gear just to get the car moving, I only stay in it for less than 2 seconds, 2nd until 20 km/h, 3rd until 40 km/h, 4th until near 60 km/h and then 5th onwards. I don't mind shifting up so fast but the real issue is that at 110 km/h the engine drones at 3,600 RPM which is totally unnecessary, seeing that the CVT can do the same speed at much lower revs. Maybe adding a 6th gear would be helpful.
Wah. I go at 8 am sharp but get no. 15 in the queue

For the hard start during warm eagine can cause by many fact:

1) Loose nozzle head.injector working over time at high spraying volume tend to weaken,unable to retract in time. Excess fuel wet spark plug result in hard crank

2) Our S4P uses independent coil for each sparkplug. Over time driing tend to heat up the coil, spark become weak as a result gotta hard crank

3) New/expired sparkplug gap too near/far apart, result in uneven sparks, especially during hot engine, gap effect become significant. If new sparkplug can loosen the iridium head, whereas for old sparkplug need to be tighten. My uncle's A31 cefiro uses his stock sparkplug for 12 years until the copper head can't be tighten anymore only he change.

4) Last but not least, hot air is bad for ignition. Noon time/after long distance, substatial hot air trapped in engine bay causes uneasy to burn the A/F mixture.

Hope this help. Justify before change anything suggested by the mech. Don't let those mech simply cut throat.

i thought so too, but campro I AFM+ also refers to the whole engine setup. As far as I know, for 1.6, the IAFM+ variant has reprofiled cams, so it gets higher torque at lower RPM, but lower max hp compared to 1.6 IAFM. Not sure about 1.3 IAFM+.

So its not just a simple rev cut as you said 

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Added on May 25, 2012, 4:22 pm

Engine cover is unnecessary, unless you want your engine to look good, otherwise it is functionally negligible.

+1 on V12k comment. I drive manual cars, and they all share the similar behaviour. High power vehicle is even more obvious. After gear engaged, if engine not received sufficient fuel to burn whilst cruising at low speed, wheels will kick back engine, as a result felt jerking in the car However, once u get used to it u know when to press the pedal & when not to, jerking can be reduced to minimal. Driven a few CVT GaGa before, they do felt like a manual car with only 1 gear + without clutch pedal kinda like CVT! Will never look back in conventional auto GB. There may be ways to improve it lar, as driven a Kemry 2.4 which doesn't have the jerking feeling like our Plotong. Hope Plotong will look into it, may be software issue Never get to test it on the Pervert though, as I whack the car 9 9 during test drive, very smooth acceleration(sprint to be exact ) & hard brakings for that whole 30 minutes!

Re: response... Placebo! Big time! 3 year old car add ground cable to increase throttle response?! I'll be damn to buy a car!

Re: vacuum gauge, u did mentioned its a 3 wire setup. I'm guassing the rd wire is NOT ignition. setup shd be as below

+ve - ignition
-ve - ground
Extra cable - parking lamp

When u start your car, it shd be brightlight background. When front light activated, background light become dimmer, so it won't hurt your sight during night time.