What would be really awesome is a manual tranny version. But I don't wanna drive a pickup truck



Warranty is one year for most of the car, and five years for the engine, right?

Don't think I have extended warranty. So I'm halfway through the warranty for engine and tranny. Campro, is very reliable, rite?

No no, what I meant is that, there are no other manual tranny diesels cars on sale at the moment, unless you're talking about pickup trucks, and I don't want one of them. Nothing to do with the Focus.

I have the same tyres and so far there's still quite a bit of thread left. 39,000 km, two rotations done. I'm guessing it should last until 60,000 km.

When they're worn I'm planning to change them to Michelin XM2. I'm just a bit concerned about the Ducaro's grip in the wet, especially on a car without ABS and traction control.

Weird. On a front wheel drive the front tyres should wear faster. Anyway, reading about the XM2 it seems like a decent set to upgrade to. Good grip and not noisy. I'm more concerned about the former, though I've never experienced loss of control or skidding on my Ducaros before.

+1

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 23 2012, 04:36 PM

Not sure about Yokohama. As for a good honest shop you might want to ask around for recommendations. Maybe in the tyre thread.

Quite a few people found the XM2 favourable here.

Oh I have to mention, one thing I love about this set of Ducaros is that it's totally silent when driving in my multi-storey carpark, and other smooth floor carparks too. Every other car screeches like crazy but not mine

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 23 2012, 05:05 PM

Maybe he wants to file a representative action on everyone's behalf

Thanks for your input guys

Me guessing the float in the fuel tank determining level is stuck. This could be true if the second bar lasts for a very long distance, like more than 100 km.

There you go, the float is stuck. You start driving, the petrol starts sloshing and the float becomes unstuck

To discharge air trapped in the tank, and to allow the fuel to flow properly into the tank without building up. If not the nozzle will trip prematurely. I hate pumps which shoot at 1 L / second on the slowest setting

I wished I could upgrade my SE to FLX spec. Getrag manual tranny, stiffer suspensions, front passenger airbag, IAFM+, ABS and EBD. I wonder how much would all that cost

I think I might as well wait for Saga v.3.0

Because manual tranny's TCU is in fact the driver's brain



My reasons for desiring the Getrag tranny are due to the different final drive, and while I haven't driven a manual FLX before (only the CVT one), I'm guessing the shifting feel is much improved. People who have driven my car said they like it very much except for the shifting feel, and I agree. If you're going to be rowing through the gears many times while driving it's worth getting a gearbox with a good feel.

Anyway, about the ratio, see this:



MFA30A is the original Aichi Kikai tranny on BLM and FL, I'm guessing the Getrag one is 5MTT200A.

Yes, at first glance the Getrag ratios seem shorter than the AK tranny, but don't forget to multiply by the final drive (AK 4.705, Getrag 3.8). If you do this, the ratios look like this:

Gear No./AK ratio/Getrag ratio

1 / 15.682 / 13.471
2 / 9.194 / 7.771
3 / 6.046 / 5.373
4 / 4.357 / 4.005
5 / 3.552 / 3.336

Those of you having the AK tranny will know that the ratios are really short. It's good for power and acceleration, especially since Campro has lousy low end torque, but then again I still think it's too low. My typical shifting pattern is like this: 1st gear just to get the car moving, I only stay in it for less than 2 seconds, 2nd until 20 km/h, 3rd until 40 km/h, 4th until near 60 km/h and then 5th onwards. I don't mind shifting up so fast but the real issue is that at 110 km/h the engine drones at 3,600 RPM which is totally unnecessary, seeing that the CVT can do the same speed at much lower revs. Maybe adding a 6th gear would be helpful.



Wah. I go at 8 am sharp but get no. 15 in the queue

For No. 4, I get that problem occasionally, when I try and start a warm / hot engine. I doubt it's the spark plugs, maybe the fuel pump?

For No. 2, when the air cond compressor kicks in while driving slowly in first or second gear on the manual tranny, it gives one big jerk to the car. It's serious damn annoying, especially if it kicks in while you're accelerating from a traffic light. The effect is not so much noticeable in higher gears and at higher speeds. Solution, change to a not-so-powderful compressor?

This post has been edited by lhwj: May 25 2012, 12:48 PM

Yes, after factoring in the final drive.

I dunno about that. Wished we could compare the torque graph between IAFM and IAFM+. I doubt there's a huge difference though, like CamTAKpro and IAFM.

My personal solution is to turn on the air-cond only when I reach the main road (cruising), and reduce the amount of time spent in the lower gears, but this is dependent on traffic.

Winding down windows will increase drag so it will not save fuel.

As for the air cond factor, I think with the air cond on and windows up in city traffic driving, consumption will be worse compared to windows down and air cond off. On the highway though, air cond on and windows up is definitely better than air cond off and windows down.

I think your butt dyno should easily feel that

Plausible. Less evaporation if there's more fuel and less air in the tank.

Next visit, buy CFE letters and stick on the boot

The sound is caused by some loose rod in the IAFM, I think. The IAFM should still work properly, it's just that it's annoying. Warranty just over? Three years?

This?

Y U NO LIKE CONTI CAR FEEL?